Newbie question - First time filling up tank

Ryan777

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So when I filled up my 120 gallon tank I basically crated a sand storm with the salt water.

Do I run my pumps and wave makers? Wouldn’t that just keep the sand particles in the water floating around?
Do I just run the return and keep wave makers off?
OR - Keep both off for a week until the sand settles?

I have a roller filter, carbon reactor, and skimmer in the sump.

43C6F51C-4877-4DCA-B139-5A5FA2C4D8EC.jpeg
 

AydenLincoln

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Thanks.
should I add Dr Tim’s now or do I need to wait until pumps are running better?
Now is fine but make sure you have an ammonia source. That can either be bottled ammonia, fish food, or a fish. The water will clear within a day or two. And add the clarifying packet from the sand if it came with one.
 

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I'd let it settle which should be in the next day or two, then you can start the wavemakers and drop in dr tims ammonia
 
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Ryan777

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I'd let it settle which should be in the next day or two, then you can start the wavemakers and drop in dr tims ammonia
I would like to let it settle as well. I will run the heater, and 1 return pump. Unfortunately the ball valve on the carbon reactor is not working and so water is running through it. I will have to get a new one.
 

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I would like to let it settle as well. I will run the heater, and 1 return pump. Unfortunately the ball valve on the carbon reactor is not working and so water is running through it. I will have to get a new one.
I would think the carbon reactor isn't important at the moment so no worries. Get the cycling started so the time frame can start winding down to add livestock.
 
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Ryan777

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I would think the carbon reactor isn't important at the moment so no worries. Get the cycling started so the time frame can start winding down to add livestock.
With regards to the return nozzles. The top right side is about 90% more powerful than the left. Plumbing issue or is it that way because of distance travelled and the water wants to go out the nearest outlet?
 

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So when I filled up my 120 gallon tank I basically crated a sand storm with the salt water.

Do I run my pumps and wave makers? Wouldn’t that just keep the sand particles in the water floating around?
Do I just run the return and keep wave makers off?
OR - Keep both off for a week until the sand settles?

I have a roller filter, carbon reactor, and skimmer in the sump.

43C6F51C-4877-4DCA-B139-5A5FA2C4D8EC.jpeg
Get flow going and avoid it being directed towards sand. With flow to sump, you can use filter socks or nylon stockings to trap the sediments causing the milky effect. Once things have settled, you can do a light surface siphon and then begin your cycle.
Add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride or a piece of shrimp (shrimp for 48 hours). Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
Overloading tank with too many fish up front will exceed what the bacteria can handle which is why its best to stock fish slowly
 

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Did you rinse the sand before you put it in the tank? IF you did, you didn't do a proper job. That dust will settle but is going to kick up everytime the sand gets moved about. I would pull all of the sand out, but it is a large bucket(s) or heavy duty plastic bag. Put three or four inches of sand in a bucket and rinse that with the garden hose until it the water doesn't cloud up when you fill it. Then dump it back in, and repeat until the sand has been washed of the fines.
Then add bacteria, the clean sand will be a much better substrate for whatever life you put into the tank.

Yes it is a pain, but that dust is going to continue to blow around for a long, long time unless you remove it. I've done this both ways, would never, never start a tank without washing the fines out first. Your call.
KrisReef.
sandstorm GIF
 

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With regards to the return nozzles. The top right side is about 90% more powerful than the left. Plumbing issue or is it that way because of distance travelled and the water wants to go out the nearest outlet?
Get these nozzles into the water and the amount of travel makes the flow different on each side. It would have been advantageous to have a ball valve or shut off on the strong side so you could send more pressure to the opposite side
 
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Ryan777

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Did you rinse the sand before you put it in the tank? IF you did, you didn't do a proper job. That dust will settle but is going to kick up everytime the sand gets moved about. I would pull all of the sand out, but it is a large bucket(s) or heavy duty plastic bag. Put three or four inches of sand in a bucket and rinse that with the garden hose until it the water doesn't cloud up when you fill it. Then dump it back in, and repeat until the sand has been washed of the fines.
Then add bacteria, the clean sand will be a much better substrate for whatever life you put into the tank.

Yes it is a pain, but that dust is going to continue to blow around for a long, long time unless you remove it. I've done this both ways, would never, never start a tank without washing the fines out first. Your call.
KrisReef.
sandstorm GIF
That gif is hilarious and I hope it doesn’t happen to me. I used Fiji pink live sand. I thought rinsing would get rid of whatever they put in it.
 
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Get these nozzles into the water and the amount of travel makes the flow different on each side. It would have been advantageous to have a ball valve or shut off on the strong side so you could send more pressure to the opposite side
Hmm good to know about that ball valve that makes sense. I guess it’s too late for me unless I take all the water out and put in a couple of brute trash cans.
 

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Hmm good to know about that ball valve that makes sense. I guess it’s too late for me unless I take all the water out and put in a couple of brute trash cans.
You should be able lower water just below the overflow and water will stop running and you can then cut pipe and fit in in and allow to dry a couple of hours minimum and place water back in the tank
 

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Hmm good to know about that ball valve that makes sense. I guess it’s too late for me unless I take all the water out and put in a couple of brute trash cans.
You can get little lockline ball valves that would work perfect, not really a big deal though. If it was live sand good job not rinsing, you’re going to get 100 different opinions on here about starting a tank lol. Just choose a few sources or people to listen to and stick to it until your comfortable experimenting is my advice. Goodluck and welcome! Before you know it you will have coraline growing and happy fish to feed
 
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Looking better already. Thanks for the help guys!
 

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Ryan777

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Get flow going and avoid it being directed towards sand. With flow to sump, you can use filter socks or nylon stockings to trap the sediments causing the milky effect. Once things have settled, you can do a light surface siphon and then begin your cycle.
Add your bacteria and then ammonia chloride or a piece of shrimp (shrimp for 48 hours). Then you want to monitor ammonia , When your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate.
Overloading tank with too many fish up front will exceed what the bacteria can handle which is why its best to stock fish slowly
Once the sand storm dies down I will be ready I hope for the next steps. Every step has been a challenge. First the guy that plumbed it had both return pumps connected to both sides of my UV filter and of course the main return would have pushed in on the weaker slower pump, effectively negating any UV light whatsoever. Thanks for the good advice. Happy to be here with you guys!
 

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Get these nozzles into the water and the amount of travel makes the flow different on each side. It would have been advantageous to have a ball valve or shut off on the strong side so you could send more pressure to the opposite side
Adding to this:

Make 100% sure the spare capacity in your sump can handle the return nozzles siphoning water back down until they’re fully above water, or they’re fitted with an anti-siphon valve you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.
 
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Ryan777

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You should be able lower water just below the overflow and water will stop running and you can then cut pipe and fit in in and allow to dry a couple of hours minimum and place water back in the tank
Hi Vetteguy - So the installer used ball valves for the two reactors. The one in the back is the carbon. Should I put in gate valves instead?

I know the sump area looks crazy and it didn’t come out like I wanted, but for my first tank I just want to get things going. I am trying to correct or fix the plumbing before things are brought in.

I also noticed my top left return nozzle on the backside of the aquarium has a tiny leak (the black fitting) and I tried to put silicon on it, but it is a hard area to get to. I am going to ask my eight year old if he can do it.

I attached a couple of pics of the ball valves and the updated tank clarity.
 

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Ryan777

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Adding to this:

Make 100% sure the spare capacity in your sump can handle the return nozzles siphoning water back down until they’re fully above water, or they’re fitted with an anti-siphon valve you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.
There is space in the sump, but to be safe I am keeping them pointed straight but just below water level until the sand storm settles, then I will point them down a bit. But since the left side is barely a trickle at my slow speed it will mostly be one sided.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 41 48.8%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 44 52.4%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 19 22.6%
  • None.

    Votes: 22 26.2%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 10.7%

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