NH3/NH4 should both be 0ppm or just NH3 be 0ppm

[khittik]

Dear all,

I have just set up my new salt water tank with Natural Sea Water. It has been more than a week and the tank should be fully cycled now.

I have done the test daily using API test kit (NH3/NH4) and the result is approximately 0.25ppm.

However, I have also bought a Seachem Amonia Alert and placed in the tank. It has been more than 4 days. It shows as safe zone: less than 0.02ppm. I believe this kit only tests NH3 which is free ammonia (un-ionized ammonia)

My question is: Can I put the fish and coral in the tank? Should I make sure NH3/NH4 are 0ppm or just have to make sure NH3 is 0ppm at all times?

Please help!

With kind regards

Khit Tik

 

[brandon429]

I agree its a time- based contact sustain cycle vs one meant to move 2ppm down or some strict high ammonia amount


if there's enough attachment surface area, the bacteria will transfer and multiply faster than a small bioload would over power it.


The key is don't overload it too soon, I'd say closer to day fifteen submerged will give strong multiplication time

 

[Jonify]

If you have live rock, it's fine now. If you don't, I've never had issues with throwing in Dr. Tim's and fish at the same time, Day 1. Dr. Tims pulls down ammonia to zero in about 2-4 hours. I watched this happen with a Seneye once. It was pretty cool. .5 is the alarm zone, need to change the water. If you happen to swing back up to that, I would just add some Prime which will neutralize the ammonia for 24 hours, some more Dr. Tims, which will take care of it after the 24 hours, and then let it go. Never lost a fish and never had a fish act negatively to it.

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

The hardest lesson I learned going from freshwater to saltwater is that 0 nitrate or phosphate is BAD. Keep one or both of those at zero for too long WILL result in Dino’s. You have been warned.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

The hardest lesson I learned going from freshwater to saltwater is that 0 nitrate or phosphate is BAD. Keep one or both of those at zero for too long WILL result in Dino’s. You have been warned.

Is that referring to o.p or some rando

 

[BroccoliFarmer]

Is that referring to o.p or some rando

The OP.

 

[ZoWhat]

NH3/NH4 should both be 0ppm or just NH3 be 0ppm​

If you have super radioactive isotopes Nihonium.... you better contact your County & State Hazmat Teams

 

[khittik]

If you have live rock, it's fine now. If you don't, I've never had issues with throwing in Dr. Tim's and fish at the same time, Day 1. Dr. Tims pulls down ammonia to zero in about 2-4 hours. I watched this happen with a Seneye once. It was pretty cool. .5 is the alarm zone, need to change the water. If you happen to swing back up to that, I would just add some Prime which will neutralize the ammonia for 24 hours, some more Dr. Tims, which will take care of it after the 24 hours, and then let it go. Never lost a fish and never had a fish act negatively to it.

Thank you.
I checked Seneye monitor and it looks great. But it only monitors NH3 free ammonia, do we need to check NH4 as well or we need to check both NH3/NH4 because if we use only NH3 and (NH3/NH4) test, the results will be different? Should NH4 be our concerned

 

[Garf]

Thank you.
I checked Seneye monitor and it looks great. But it only monitors NH3 free ammonia, do we need to check NH4 as well or we need to check both NH3/NH4 because if we use only NH3 and (NH3/NH4) test, the results will be different? Should NH4 be our concerned

Folks check nh4+nh3 because it’s a constant whereas nh3 alone wobbles around in relation to pH mainly.

That said, both levels appear safe, and agree with each other at normal pH.

 

[Jonify]

Thank you.
I checked Seneye monitor and it looks great. But it only monitors NH3 free ammonia, do we need to check NH4 as well or we need to check both NH3/NH4 because if we use only NH3 and (NH3/NH4) test, the results will be different? Should NH4 be our concerned

NH3 is the form that is toxic to fish.