No nitrates and high ammonia - cycled tank

[hbubley]

I put an ammonia alert on my tank and it's reading around 0.25.

I just ran parameter tests and got back some weird values, mindful that right now I'm waiting for my better test kit to come in, I unknowingly got API before I read that they're not super reliable.
Ammonia: 0.5
Nitrates: 0 ?? (they were 20 a couple days ago)
Nitrites: 0

These were the only values I tested as I wanted to confirm the ammonia alert tag I have in the tank. All the fish are doing great, clowns are swimming around and eating and the duncan is fully open, wider than ever. And the water doesn't look cloudy to me.

I did recently start feeding frozen and the reef roids that I'm spot feeding with are also new in the aquarium.

Should I run the water to the LFS to test, wait it out for new test kits to come in and chalk these results up to API, or do a water change? I have my quarantine tank coming in today that I'm going to set up, so I can also move things around but def don't want to over react.

Thanks in advance!
Tank was cycled for 7 months with hermit crabs and formula one pellets, clowns were added 2 weeks ago.

 

[blaxsun]

The ammonia test could be suspect, so I'd probably have your LFS check it.

 

[reefinatl]

Things look good just carry on. @brandon429 can be a bit annoying but he's right on ammonia tests.

Love yah buddy but your rants get tiresome lol

 

[MnFish1]

Hi welcome to R2R. Can you mention which ammonia alert you're using? If for example you're using a Seachem alert badge - that would be the equivalent of an 'Alarm level' for free ammonia.

The API test of 0.5 (depending on pH) - is not likely to be toxic a toxic total ammonia level - and the 2 levels do not match (i.e. a total API ammonia of 0.5 is the equivalent of 0.0281ppm (free ammonia - which is what is measured on the Seachem alert - again if thats what you're using). Both suggest you have some ammonia - but it's unclear which one is right. Thus - I agree you need a third test.

PS - I don't want to ignite the usual debate - but - IMHO - there is very little difference in API vs other tests - each has their own plusses and minuses. The API tests do need to be followed exactly - or there can be some error. One of the most common errors is not following the instructions with regards to how to read the test. I.e. - 0 is 'yellow'. 0.25 is yellow-green. The reading if its not quite yellow and not as green as the 0.25 - is 'zero'. i.e. you use the closest number matching the color on the chart. The lighting can also be an issue. I wouldn't beat yourself up too much - I have only used API tests for 10+ years - after testing several of the other 'better' ones.

 

[brandon429]

7 months


false stuck cycle, added to our false stuck cycle study thread/can you post a pic of this tank please

excellent post
today is going to be busy on the false stalls/that's fun. a bunch of free new decoding jobs. need tank pics

 

[brandon429]

**this one will be good to trip up forum cycle umpires. alert badges read in nh3 not nh4, therefore .25 = the sky is falling in this tank



yet pics are about to show...testimony about the system status has stated/....the kit stating .25 may be nh3 but it's not digital... a battle between old cycling science and new is waging here in this post

 

[MnFish1]

7 months


false stuck cycle, added to our false stuck cycle study thread/can you post a pic of this tank please

excellent post
today is going to be busy on the false stalls/that's fun. a bunch of free new decoding jobs. need tank pics

Curious - where does it say 7 months? Clearly there is some error in testing - Because I can't think of anything that would change the nitrate from 20 to 0 in a couple days. The 2 ammonia tests don't match - which is the big clue. However - both tests showing some ammonia - suggests there is some ammonia present - for whatever reason at some level right?

 

[brandon429]

**also needed

can you post updated reading pictures from each of your ammonia kits in clear light

this will be so so helpful to benchmark range reporting in absolutely undoubtedly cycled tanks, to see those presentation spread pics on the ammonia reading across a few kits.

 

[MnFish1]

**this one will be good to trip up forum cycle umpires. alert badges read in nh3 not nh4, therefore .25 = the sky is falling in this tank



yet pics are about to show...testimony about the system status has stated/....

Thats what I said Brandon - there has to be a testing error lol. EITHER the API test is wrong at .5 - it should be much higher. OR - the Alert badge is wrong since it should be reading 0.02 not 0.25.

 

[hbubley]

Thanks for all the help guys!! @brandon429 not gonna lie, I have stalked so many of the posts you contribute to and really respect your opinion. You seem so knowledgable so I love reading any information you put out, really helpful to me.

I'll get updated pics when I get home of the tank and the ammonia tests (will rerun).

The ammonia alert is reading like 0.5. I have a dragonette in the tank who's doing wonderfully, my 2 clowns are great, duncan is still big as ever and open, and all other corals look great. No cloudy water. I even did a water change yesterday sifting the sand and getting some detritus and everyone is still great. Only thing I can think is I've been adding new dry rock.

 

[brandon429]

This will really help us as we refine old vs new cycling science, to see how a range of test kits read on a seven month fully running reef is a rare context I'm anticipating to see. Adding any dry rock isn't going to affect your ammonia control/ can do

 

[hbubley]

Great! I'll be home in 4 hours, will post as soon as I get there and retest Might be able to get my BF to send me pics of the tank and the ammonia alert badge in the meantime

 

[hbubley]

Please excuse the smudges, washed the glass of the tank yesterday and was out of windex so it's a bit streaky

 

[hbubley]

OMG I HAVE BEEN READING THE ALERT WRONG I THINK. I thought I should look where the circle looks cut, but now I'm thinking I should've been looking for the color. I'm dumb guys.

 

[brandon429]

agreed the badge is passing/no probs there

 

[MnFish1]

Thanks for all the help guys!! @brandon429 not gonna lie, I have stalked so many of the posts you contribute to and really respect your opinion. You seem so knowledgable so I love reading any information you put out, really helpful to me.

I'll get updated pics when I get home of the tank and the ammonia tests (will rerun).

The ammonia alert is reading like 0.5. I have a dragonette in the tank who's doing wonderfully, my 2 clowns are great, duncan is still big as ever and open, and all other corals look great. No cloudy water. I even did a water change yesterday sifting the sand and getting some detritus and everyone is still great. Only thing I can think is I've been adding new dry rock.

Yes - IMHO - your API test is reading correctly - which is a minimally- non-toxic level. Your Alert badge reads 0 free ammonia. Congrats - One of them had to be wrong

 

[MnFish1]

IMHO - there is no 'old cycling vs new cycling' here. It's a matter of correctly reading tests (no offense to the OP). If fish are swimming around in a tank with supposedly 0.5 free ammonia - something is off - which has been said from the start. I'm glad you posted

@hbubley because it shows that testing is not infallible - (including the Sneeze FWIW)​

 

[hbubley]

I feel so silly haha, I didn't even question whether or not I was reading the test kit correctly, I just saw a potential high reading and lost all of my sense. Moral of the story: Always slow down and don't blindly follow tests. Sorry for the false alarm guys I appreciate all the help!!

 

[MnFish1]

I feel so silly haha, I didn't even question whether or not I was reading the test kit correctly, I just saw a potential high reading and lost all of my sense. Moral of the story: Always slow down and don't blindly follow tests. Sorry for the false alarm guys I appreciate all the help!!

No it's an important comment and conversation. 1. Most people don't realize there is a difference between free and total ammonia 2. Most people don't realize there are different tests and 3. Its always important to (this is going to sound rude - but it is the boon of many tanks) - follow exactly the directions - no matter what test you're using - if it says shake xxx seconds - shake it xxx seconds not more or less, etc etc. Im still concerned that you have an issue in your tank even though - as originally stated - its not 'caused' by ammonia - IMHO - the levels you're getting are a symptom of an issue (as well as the death) - what is your pH?

 

[brandon429]

its ok. I'll raise you this:

Sustained Ammonia spikes are misreads

The reason you think your reef tank can’t control its ammonia is due to false training from old cycling science. That and you don’t own a seneye on the tank in question: if you did, you wouldn’t ever think your ammonia was out of control...

www.reef2reef.com

seven pages of totally false panics with actual misreading kits and pics of the kits. I was hoping we could add yours to upcoming page eight lol

some of those good ones are years old tanks. I like to collect instances when test kit readings for a crashed cycle don't line up with the tank pics/symptoms in the fish.

there's a going whisper in chemistry circles that all these tanks/all future false cycles I'll post in/ are secretly very full of ammonia (the non digital test kits are correct as seen) and only the lucky pH of the system prevents it from becoming toxic. reason I don't believe that: pH is not consistent for ten years across tanks, but stacking rocks in a tank of warm moving water having been inoculated with filter bacteria that oxidize ammonia sure is consistent across tanks. we all copy means and methods that oxidize ammonia; we do not copy means and methods that control pH in everyone's tank. I've never asked any cycle staller if they live in a crowded apartment, no open windows, gas heating, low alk water OR if they live in a huge home, open windows, electric heating, 1 occupant, very high alk water (presents opposing pH extremes)

so I don't buy the lucky pH protection claim. I buy the all stalled cycles are false misreads (or misinterpretation) claim.