NOOB Sump / Start - up Questions

Eric06

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Hey!
I made this account a while ago but I just bought a house and finally just got my first tank so I could use really use some advice!
Picked up 120 gallon tank 48x24x24 with dual overflow (I think) -- Planning to make it FOWLR (not a lot of live rock in tank)
Trying to get it up and running efficiently without spending a tremendous amount of money.
Located in SE Florida.



What is needed to set up my sump?
I have sump and a pump but not sure what other pieces are needed. I was told the 1" bulkheads need to be replaced.
I was looking on bulkreefsupply but it looks like there's different styles / shapes of bulkheads?:face-with-spiral-eyes:
Is flex or rigid PVC better?
Would you recommend buying plumbing from a fish store/site or Home Depot?

What is the best / cost effective means for monitoring water chemistry?
Strips? Meters? Are there meters for multiple things? Refractometer for salinity?

What is best media for sump?
Liverock? Bioballs?

Python still the best means for basic cleaning / water changes?

Is RO essential? What are the best ways to get R/O? Should I just look into installing a system at home?



Would love to have this sorted out so I can order / pickup equipment needed by Monday to take advantage of CYBER MONDAY DEALS!

ANY TIPS / TRICKS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED!

Thank you all! I look forward to getting this going and contributing to this site.

IMG_20221126_091454079.jpg IMG_20221126_091521784.jpg received_500596798771342.jpeg received_1542272709577929.jpeg
 

RocketEngineer

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Bulkheads: if you’re going to replace them, you need to know exactly how big the existing hole is in the glass. The hole size determines if you need a schedule 40 (ABS) or schedule 80 bulkhead. The ABS one is smaller and not as strong but works for aquariums just fine. Next, you need to decide on threaded or glue-in (socket). Glue-in is typically easier but you can’t undo it and try again. I prefer threaded so I can fix things if I mess up. Either way, remember the threads on the outside of the fitting are for the nut, not the plumbing.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Plumbing: I prefer to use rigid for drains as they don't get moved once the system is up and running. I use vinyl for the returns off the pumps because it allows the pumps to be maintained and dampens vibrations. I use black vinyl tubing to avoid anything growing inside the pipe. For nearly all of this, I get the pieces from the local box store / hardware store. Specialty fittings I order online as needed.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Lumping water questions:
RODI is the ideal starting point for water in your system. I recommend installing a RODI unit in your house if at all possible. In my house I took over part of the first floor closet for my water system. I use the python system, especially the hose, for moving water around. It is much much easier than hauling buckets.

A refractometer for salinity is still highly recommended. There are other salinity testers but I'm old school and like the refractometer. Regarding the other parameters, strips are the LEAST recommended method. There are a number of colorimeter checkers out there that seem to be popular as well as the more reputable titration tests (drop/color change). Your mileage may vary but for now I'm sticking with the big 6: salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, phosphate.

Media in the sump: Up to you. I tend not to use it myself but know of several folks that run bare bottom and use media in the sump to increase surface area for the whole system.
 
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Eric06

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Thank you! That is super helpful. I will definitely be looking to figure out the exact size of hole in tank so I can get the right piece -- Opting for the stronger fit to ensure no leaks.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Existing setup: Sump looks good, Similar to what I used on my first setups. That pump is a MagDrive 18 which is more a pond pump than a reef pump. They have been around for a long time and are known from being nearly bulletproof but also run hot and are LOUD. I would swap that out for a couple smaller pumps. Sicce is my personal choice as they are much more efficient and also have a long history of quality. I'm running 2 on my 100G right now. Two pumps means you have redundancy in case something goes wrong with one.
 
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RocketEngineer

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Thank you! That is super helpful. I will definitely be looking to figure out the exact size of hole in tank so I can get the right piece -- Opting for the stronger fit to ensure no leaks.

Any bulkhead that's properly installed shouldn't leak. The gasket always goes on the flange side and the nut is hand tight plus one quarter turn. No more is needed.
 
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spawn79

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When it comes to plumbing I second the hard plumbing but have used both. It just depends on your application and chances of it being moved/bumped or if you're doing odd angles. A 1' piece of soft tubing is good coming from the pump. With an AC pump like that I would use silicone (amazon) as it transfers almost none of the vibration. AC pumps vibrate quite a bit and even vinyl tubing can transfer quite a bit.
Depending on the environment you may run into issues with heat from the AC pump. You might also want to consider a DC pump for controllability and noise. They are quite a bit less noisy in my opinion and pretty easy to get on the cheap if you want. (Jaebo as an example. There are haters so watch out for that but I have personally never had a problem with their gear at all.)
Personally I wouldn't buy a BRS RODI unit. They have some good filters but personally I think you're paying too much of a premium. Look on ebay/amazon for some good units under $200. As long as you don't have insanely high chloramines or contaminants they'll be just fine and even then you can just swap out the filters. A DI isn't absolutely necessary but is highly suggested as it's the only thing that can remove some contaminants. I put a dual unit on mine cause it's easier to keep up with resin changes and was only marginally more expensive than a single canister. https://tsmaquatics.com/products/ic-dfc200-icecap-dual-di-filter-canister-2022-08-23

An inline TDS meter is nice but I would only use for a general health measurement for the unit. Get a handheld TDS meter to spot check the output on a regular basis. They can be had pretty cheap from many sources.
Also consider getting one with a reservoir and drinking water tap if you have the space and location. If you're putting one in you might as well get some benefit from the pure water as well. Just plumb the reservoir and tap in ahead of the DI resin.

I would also highly suggest an inkbird temp controller. Heaters fail all the time and they're pretty cheap insurance for peace of mind. I got one that also has a cooling function. Plug the heaters into one side and a fan into the other and you don't have to worry about turning on a fan yourself or wasting water to evaporation when you don't need a fan running.

I know you are looking to start up asap but I would suggest some youtube time on basic stuff if you haven't already. None of this is gospel of course but a good general place to hit the ground running on gear questions. Some are super basic so you might want to skip around a bit.

52 weeks of reefing:
Beginner series:


Have fun!! I'm also starting up another reef right now. You can go as complicated or as simple as you want. My personal suggestion is keep it simple at the start and grow into things as you go. More tech and complications leave more room for failure. Gear is nice but definitely not needed to have a really successful tank.
 
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