Observation only QT

Cell

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4-6 week minimum for observational QT. I'd go more like 8 weeks personally to be safe and even then, it's not guaranteed.
 
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HankstankXXL750

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One thing I'm worried about is that you have a lot of angelfish, and I don't know their sizes, or how they are getting along, I don't trust Passers in with many other angels, certainly not a blue.

The picture of the majestic isn't clear, but the spots on the body likely aren't Lymphocystis and that never causes a fish to stop eating (unless the lesions are on the mouth) so, as I had suggested, multiple issues are going on here. Many majestics are collected with sodium cyanide, that causes mortality later on, with one of the key symptoms being not feeding.

Are you seeing rapid breathing in any fish?

If you decide to use a copper quarantine, do it right away - that takes 5 days to really start to work (as it is pretty gentle). The danger is that if you wait too long, any diseases gain a foothold and then the copper doesn't have time to work. People wait too long to dose copper, then they dose it, the fish dies and they blame the copper - when actually, it was the delay that caused the issue.

Jay
Actually the passer is destined for my predator tank once I get nitrates in line and Algea under control.
The majestic is captive bred.
I am currently QTing the Koran, an emperor, the majestic and the xanthrus for a XXXL900 I’m in the process of setting up 210g. Planning to introduce them after I have the tank fully cycled at the same time to hopefully avoid conflict. I have had very good lock with this process for tangs and hoping it will transfer.
The passer is 3-4” and I’ve kept him separated from the majestic with a divider. The Koran is 2” juvenile, xanthrus maybe 3” and the emperor is a transitioning 3”.
I have had a couple of angels in the past 20yrs ago.
None of these fish appear to be breathing rapidly.
Thanks.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Actually the passer is destined for my predator tank once I get nitrates in line and Algea under control.
The majestic is captive bred.
I am currently QTing the Koran, an emperor, the majestic and the xanthrus for a XXXL900 I’m in the process of setting up 210g. Planning to introduce them after I have the tank fully cycled at the same time to hopefully avoid conflict. I have had very good lock with this process for tangs and hoping it will transfer.
The passer is 3-4” and I’ve kept him separated from the majestic with a divider. The Koran is 2” juvenile, xanthrus maybe 3” and the emperor is a transitioning 3”.
I have had a couple of angels in the past 20yrs ago.
None of these fish appear to be breathing rapidly.
Thanks.
The majestic not eating, but being captive raised is a concern…small angels can’t go long without food. Do you have access to live baby brine to try to entice it to feed?
Jay
 
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HankstankXXL750

HankstankXXL750

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The majestic not eating, but being captive raised is a concern…small angels can’t go long without food. Do you have access to live baby brine to try to entice it to feed?
Jay
No all have is saltwater grass shrimp. Too big. I’m going to try garlic soaked hykari mega marine angel.
it was eating really well. Right now it swims actively when food introduced but doesn’t take any. I know it was picking and choosing. I have been mixing the angel with spirulina and plankton.
I might be able to get some amphipods from one of my sumps.
 
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HankstankXXL750

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The majestic not eating, but being captive raised is a concern…small angels can’t go long without food. Do you have access to live baby brine to try to entice it to feed?
Jay
I was reading the instructions for paraguard. I know you said it isn’t as effective, but I only have a Petsmart and they have some API ich cure which doesn’t sound good. When reading them one of the signs it gave for ich was twitching and I realize that the majestic is twitching. I’m going to prepare a 1 hour dip for him, then treat the 20 gallon tank for the recommended 28 days.
At least I’ll hopefully give it some relief. I will also get some copper treatment and a copper test kit coming. Which copper treatment do you recommend.
 
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HankstankXXL750

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I was reading the instructions for paraguard. I know you said it isn’t as effective, but I only have a Petsmart and they have some API ich cure which doesn’t sound good. When reading them one of the signs it gave for ich was twitching and I realize that the majestic is twitching. I’m going to prepare a 1 hour dip for him, then treat the 20 gallon tank for the recommended 28 days.
At least I’ll hopefully give it some relief. I will also get some copper treatment and a copper test kit coming. Which copper treatment do you recommend.
I found I also have Kordon rid-ich plus. Which is malachite green .05 mg/l and formalin 15 mg/l. Which is my best choice?
 

Jay Hemdal

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I found I also have Kordon rid-ich plus. Which is malachite green .05 mg/l and formalin 15 mg/l. Which is my best choice?

If I had to choose, I would pick the Paraguard over the Rid-Ich plus. The latter is fine for FW fish, but I used to mix that up myself and never had it work for marine fish.

I prefer coppersafe or copper power, brought to full 2.5 dose within a day, using a Hanna high range checker. Then, maintain the copper level at 2.5 ppm for 30 days.

Jay
 
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HankstankXXL750

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If I had to choose, I would pick the Paraguard over the Rid-Ich plus. The latter is fine for FW fish, but I used to mix that up myself and never had it work for marine fish.

I prefer coppersafe or copper power, brought to full 2.5 dose within a day, using a Hanna high range checker. Then, maintain the copper level at 2.5 ppm for 30 days.

Jay
So the fish in question I started a second round of TTM on 7/12/22 I switch them in 20 gallon tanks. I believe all three were purchased new. I had made two transfers before I made this post. Tonight I went to clean out those two tanks and discovered this pink coloration on some of the silicone in the tank and the air line that was in it. Tank has been running fish less since 7/15/2022. There have never been any medications in the tanks except prime and aquavitro seed, and I clean them by rinsing, wiping out with distilled white vinegar probably about 2-3 cups in a five gallon bucket with 3-4g well water and then rinse and place in front of a fan to dry.
Any clue what this pink could be caused by and wether it is harmful?
 

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Viking_Reefing

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Like others have said, no, observational WT isn’t a sure fire way to avoid disease in the MT…but neither is a medicated QT due to human error.

Personally don’t like to use toxins like copper on fish if I don’t have to. I use observational QT mainly to weed out velvet (and to a lesser extent uronemaas it generally presents rather quickly. I don’t care about ich so that a non issue.
If I see flukes after a FW dip I will treat for that.
My QT consists of a full reef tank with live rocks, pods, worms etc as I find that introducing the fish in to a “natural” environment helps a lot in getting them feeding and fat.
 

Jay Hemdal

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So the fish in question I started a second round of TTM on 7/12/22 I switch them in 20 gallon tanks. I believe all three were purchased new. I had made two transfers before I made this post. Tonight I went to clean out those two tanks and discovered this pink coloration on some of the silicone in the tank and the air line that was in it. Tank has been running fish less since 7/15/2022. There have never been any medications in the tanks except prime and aquavitro seed, and I clean them by rinsing, wiping out with distilled white vinegar probably about 2-3 cups in a five gallon bucket with 3-4g well water and then rinse and place in front of a fan to dry.
Any clue what this pink could be caused by and wether it is harmful?

Sorry, I'm not sure what that pink color could be. Potassium permanganate is the only pink aquarium chemical I know of. Some algae are pink, but they would rub right off.

Jay
 

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I would never do observational Qt. A long waste of time. I do TTM and have so since 2019. Ich free ever since.
 

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In deciding between observational and medicated quarantine, we should look at what professional aquariums do. If I’m not mistaken, they use medicated quarantine. I think that says a lot.
 

Cell

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In deciding between observational and medicated quarantine, we should look at what professional aquariums do. If I’m not mistaken, they use medicated quarantine. I think that says a lot.
Key word : Professionals
 
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HankstankXXL750

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In deciding between observational and medicated quarantine, we should look at what professional aquariums do. If I’m not mistaken, they use medicated quarantine. I think that says a lot.
We recently visited the Denver Aquarium where we booked the shark feeding experience. Was awesome. It was lead by the main marine biologist who was in charge of all the life. I had just gone through one of my velvet bouts and asked her a ton of questions that she readily answered.
They generally use a formalin dip on all new comers possibly freshwater dips as well. Then isolate them in an entirely different location to access health, disease, parasites etc. Then they would be able to treat with far better methods than I believe are available to the home hobbyist.

I believe, (based only on Seachem’s label) that paraguard does the same thing, only using aldehydes which they say are safer but just as effective. One other point that has led me to at least start with the O serration is that the recommendations from where I buy my fish is to have tanks cycled and set at 1.019-1.020 salinity so I can temperature stabilize and then direct release vs. drip acclimating to lessen the stress on the new fish. Since I got back into the hobby last May I have had one fish purchased from a lfs that had flukes, a few batches of velvet that came from the same lfs and two tangs that I bought online.
aside from that I haven’t had a single (knock on wood) outbreak in either of my reefs. These have been in my FOWLER tanks only.
And I tank full responsibility as the times in question I purchased more fish than I had QT space for. Online because of reaching free shipping, but lfs because it is a 5 hour round trip so I couldn’t go often and couldn’t ask them to hold it for a return trip. Lesson learned and now observed. Nothing goes in DT without at least a 6 week observation for signs of any health issues.
Based on this discussion I will have to get the appropriate copper meds and testers going forward.
 

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