ok- only thing left is to empty tank completely and soak rock in acid- phophates still 0.90

acropora4u

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I had a malfunction ( major and dumped a ton of monsodium phospate ( 8 tbsp ) into my 225 gallon reef all in 1 day... Phospahate is off the chart on my Hanna ULR at 0.90 and flashing- water turns completely blue after adding reagent when testing.. I already did about 120 gallon in water changes.. I have been dripping lanthunum chloride by SeaKlear commercial grade ( 10mils a day ) to a gallon of Ro/Water for the past 2 days and still no drop in PO4 . i am at a loss... @Randy, seems teardown and rebuild is the only way?
 
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I had a malfunction ( major and dumped a ton of monsodium phospate ( 8 tbsp ) into my 225 gallon reef all in 1 day... Phospahate is off the chart on my Hanna ULR at 0.90 and flashing- water turns completely blue after adding reagent when testing.. I have been dripping lanthunum chloride by SeaKlear commercial grade ( 10mils a day ) to a gallon of Ro/Water for the past 2 days and still no drop in PO4 . i am at a loss... @Randy, seems teardown and rebuild is the only way?
I’d just do a massive water change and then see how it goes. It would be worth it to get a 44 gal brute and do a quick water change.
 

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not at all, the max reading on the hanna is 0.90 i guess, so i dont know what it really is
Ah I see I see I use one also forgot about that. I’d do another one or even a larger water change. As difficult as the cost of salt and water can be, might be worth it. I’m not a fan of GFO either but I’d say that might be an option here if the water changes become excessive.
 
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acropora4u

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i will keep dosing the lanthuum chloride at 10mls per day until i see some reduction in PO4... ill do a very large water change after another few days
 

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How much PO4 will 8Tbs add for the size of your tank? There's a thread here before where somebody dump an equivalent of close to 100ppm to his tank. I also ask Randy on that thread how fast the Rocks would absorb this and he said immediately. I think he said the rocks will absorb and leach phosphate to get equilibrium with the water column immediately.
 
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Water changes wont help. Keep dosing the LC (hopefully into a sock) and remember that when you measure phosphate shortly after dosing LC it is possible to get a bad result as most tests will measure the suspended Lanthanum Phosphate flocculant as well as unbound phosphate.
 

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If the phosphate is bound to your rock, then it will take time to bring it down.

As asked before, how much phosphate is 10mL supposed to remove from your tank?

Can you better explain how you are dosing the Lanthanum Chloride in your tank? Are you just putting it in your top-off water or directly into the tank?
 

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Dilute your test sample to determine how much phosphate is actually in the water. You cannot decide how to address the problem if you don’t know whether you are dealing with 2 ppm or 20 ppm PO4.
 
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acropora4u

acropora4u

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Dilute your test sample to determine how much phosphate is actually in the water. You cannot decide how to address the problem if you don’t know whether you are dealing with 2 ppm or 20 ppm PO4.
How would I dilute the test.sample
 
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acropora4u

acropora4u

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Water changes wont help. Keep dosing the LC (hopefully into a sock) and remember that when you measure phosphate shortly after dosing LC it is possible to get a bad result as most tests will measure the suspended Lanthanum Phosphate flocculant as well as unbound phosphate.
Thanks
 
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acropora4u

acropora4u

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If the phosphate is bound to your rock, then it will take time to bring it down.

As asked before, how much phosphate is 10mL supposed to remove from your tank?

Can you better explain how you are dosing the Lanthanum Chloride in your tank? Are you just putting it in your top-off water or directly into the tank?
Using a joey bag and dripping it into a filter sock
 

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