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Opinion on my plumbing design for my IM EXT 100

CJ Monty

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I am in the final stages of doing plumbing for my IM Ext 100 and it would be great if I could get feedback on my plumbing.

Tank has a Ext Overflow (Bean Animal) w/1 inch bulkhead

Bulkhead -> 1" pvc -> 45 -> 1 inch pvc -> 45 -> 1" pvc -> gate valve (main overflow only) -> 1 inch pvc

There are 2 3/4" returns I am running off a varios 6 pump with a max pipe size of 1 1/4

pump -> 1 1/4" tubing -> barb to pvc adapter -> 1 1/4" pvc -> 45 -> 1 1/4" pvc -> 45 -> Tee
Tee output going up -> 1 1/4" pvc -> 1 1/4 "coupling -> 1 1/4" x 3/4" bushing -> 3/4" pipe -> street 90 -> bulkhead
Tee output going left -> 1 1/4" pvc -> 90 -> 1 1/4" pvc -> 1 1/4 coupling -> 1 1/4" x 3/4" bushing -> 3/4" pipe -> street 90 -> bulkhead

Things I have learned from research:
  1. Don't put unions where you can not reach. Unions are mechanical and they can and will fail. I can not reach behind my tank so no unions there.
  2. 90s vs 45s do not matter in terms of flow rate for reef pumps. BRS did an investigation. 45s vs 90s from an overflow do matter. 45s are easier to silence and to get full siphons.

Things I am thinking about:
  1. Does it make sense to run 1 1/4" pipe all the way to right before the tank bulkhead? It makes sense prior to the tee but after the split not sure.
  2. On the main overflow I am considering either not gluing the final pvc going into the sump or putting a union there. Makes sock changing easier.
  3. On the main overflow thinking of putting a ball valve before the gate valve. This will allow me to shut of flow from the tank without messing with the tuned gate valve. Could be useful if I can disconnect the final pipe (if I do #2)
  4. Thinking about putting a ball valve on my return line. Again probably if I only do #2. Thought is I can shut off my pump and then close both the overflow and return ball valve to prevent reverse siphon. Sump can hold all the reverse siphon but it may be nice to raise the water level above the baffles and potential flood the skimmer collection cup.
Thanks for looking :)
 
https://www.omegasea.net/

Reefacist

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Hey Im in the same both...doing my own thinking about plumbing the tank. Ill answer your question based off of what I think and as you a question of mine lol

Does it make sense to run 1 1/4" pipe all the way to right before the tank bulkhead? It makes sense prior to the tee but after the split not sure.
I don't think it REALLY would matter since it will be reduced anyways so I would do it somewhere in the sump area and not have to pay for extra 1.25 tubing and fitting for no reason. I think we all forget about the money aspect of our builds. for small incremental changes, we spend another 25-30$ but all over the build. It adds up
On the main overflow I am considering either not gluing the final pvc going into the sump or putting a union there. Makes sock changing easier.
I would not glue this piece for sure. As long as its all in the water or above the sump it wouldn't matter even if it leaked a little
On the main overflow thinking of putting a ball valve before the gate valve. This will allow me to shut of flow from the tank without messing with the tuned gate valve. Could be useful if I can disconnect the final pipe (if I do #2)
Now u got me thinking. How long of a final pvc piece are we talking about? Either way I think another ball valve wastes another 25$. I mean yes it would mean you wouldn't have to redial your bean animal to be perfect again and again but honestly how hard can that be? Just mark the gate valve on the location and you can dial it in any time you open it back up.
Thinking about putting a ball valve on my return line. Again probably if I only do #2. Thought is I can shut off my pump and then close both the overflow and return ball valve to prevent reverse siphon. Sump can hold all the reverse siphon but it may be nice to raise the water level above the baffles and potential flood the skimmer collection cup.
Again waste of money. You stated that you cant reach the back so you will not be putting unions and with the same token don't put these valves. It will be a waste. If your home and YOU turn things off it will be easy for your to raise the return loclines above the water level and stop a back siphon. The only time it may back siphon is when your not home and the power goes out and in that case if your not home you can not turn off the valves anyways and if you were home you can again just raise the return lines to slightly above water.

Ok now my question lol...i bought a used tank/stand and then bought a marine mod. external overflow. Now the stand is about 4 inches wider than the tank. So...
1. Do i drill holes on the back of the tank through a 2x4 in the back so my drains can be a straight shot down.
or
2. Do i put a pvc then a 45 degree elbow to extend it off by 4 inches then put another 45 to get it to go back down. Basically this will allow me to not drill the back of the stand and avoid a possible structural problem but will have two 45s pretty much straight outta the overflow which im worried may cause siphoning issues, especailly trying to get a silent siphon.

Thanks
 

Rob.bucek

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Thinking about putting a ball valve on my return line. Again probably if I only do #2. Thought is I can shut off my pump and then close both the overflow and return ball valve to prevent reverse siphon. Sump can hold all the reverse siphon but it may be nice to raise the water level above the baffles and potential flood the skimmer collection cup
For this purpose alone I'd just install a check valve.
Does it make sense to run 1 1/4" pipe all the way to right before the tank bulkhead? It makes sense prior to the tee but after the split not sure.
Not a fluid dynamics expert but everything I've read says you'll have improved flow of you keep it as large as you can up to the tank bullhead. You should do further research to verify this and draw your own conclusions.
On the main overflow I am considering either not gluing the final pvc going into the sump or putting a union there. Makes sock changing easier.
IMO put a union in there. Just when you think it's never gonna happen you'll be messing around down there and knock that thing loose while the tank is running. Gravity will not be kind to your floors

However you approach it I hope it turns out. Plumbing projects are fun and I'm looking forward to diving into mine shortly.
 
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CJ Monty

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Thanks for the feedback.

  1. I am going to run 1 1/4 all the way to the bulkhead. It makes sense to me and the research I have done. The cost difference is a few bucks so well worth it.
  2. I am not going to glue the final piece since its a straight shot into the sump and will not be very long.
  3. I am strongly leaning toward putting a ball union valve right before the 1st 45 on the main overflow. I found a good one for 15$. This will allow me to cut flow easily to the main and then remove the last pipe and swap my mechanical filtration. This will make it very easy for me and give me a higher probability of doing that. I also like the union feature here as well as it will allow me to rotate the pipe left and right to adjust the location in the sump. This is within reach if anything fails. Probably put a regular union on the secondary and emergency for the same reason.
  4. Not doing, good point on just lifting the return nozzles.
 
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CJ Monty

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Ok now my question lol...i bought a used tank/stand and then bought a marine mod. external overflow. Now the stand is about 4 inches wider than the tank. So...
1. Do i drill holes on the back of the tank through a 2x4 in the back so my drains can be a straight shot down.
or
2. Do i put a pvc then a 45 degree elbow to extend it off by 4 inches then put another 45 to get it to go back down. Basically this will allow me to not drill the back of the stand and avoid a possible structural problem but will have two 45s pretty much straight outta the overflow which im worried may cause siphoning issues, especailly trying to get a silent siphon.
I would not drill through a 2x4 that is a load bearing support. You do not want to weekend that. My overflow box is behind my stand so I am going down, 45 into stand, 45 down into the sump.

If you overflow is still over the stand I would do 45 away from stand, 45 down, 45 into stand, 45 into sump. But I would highly recommend you let the overflow box hang behind the tank if you can.
 

RocketEngineer

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Why do you need a ball valve on the drain? The gate valve is for fine tuning. If you need to work on the plumbing, you need to turn off the return pump anyways. A ball valve serves no purpose.
 
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CJ Monty

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Why do you need a ball valve on the drain? The gate valve is for fine tuning. If you need to work on the plumbing, you need to turn off the return pump anyways. A ball valve serves no purpose.
The thought of the ball valve was I could close it. Remove the pipe going into my filter sock, replace sock, put pipe back on, open valve again. I was thinking that you could not add the pipe back on with flowing water or am I incorrect?
 

Reefacist

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The thought of the ball valve was I could close it. Remove the pipe going into my filter sock, replace sock, put pipe back on, open valve again. I was thinking that you could not add the pipe back on with flowing water or am I incorrect?
I think that if it’s the second drain u can remove the pipe since it’s a straight shot down without even closing the pipe. Since it’s the 2nd drain there shouldn’t be much flow anyway
 

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