Opinions about my new tank

[sfin52]

The refrigerated Fritz?
I found @4FordFamily recommending BioSpira. I used it in a QT that showed just a bit of color on the Seachem alert badge. I found it worked much better than Dr Tims at dropping the current ammonia levels.

I'll keep that in mind.

 

[BestMomEver]

Thank you @BestMomEver!! I will definitely keep that in mind. I only want the fish to live comfortably and happy!!

@IslandLifeReef Yes!!I added fritz and I checked the ammonia levels this morning and they are still a little high. Nitrates went down to 50. Also, I checked the salinity of the water and it’s really low.. 22 , SG 1.016. Is it normal that after using this product the salinity of the water goes down? Because yesterday it was 1.026.

There only two ways Salinity can go down, IMO. There is either too much fresh water in the mix, or the salt you use mixes that way. I would raise it a tad when you do a water change by making your salt a little more salty. Remember that you’ll be mixing it with hypo-saline water when you add it to your tank. The goal is to get it as close to 1.025 or 1.026 as possible. Fortunately, salt concentration is easy to fix. One good thing is hyposaline water is often used when fish are sick as many bad things won’t survive in hyposaline water. Your fish may be a little better during the cycle. Those questions are better answered by @ngoodermuth or @4FordFamily (and others). They are our local sick fish experts. I am not really an expert on anything...

 

[Eve]

The refrigerated Fritz?
I found @4FordFamily recommending BioSpira. I used it in a QT that showed just a bit of color on the Seachem alert badge. I found it worked much better than Dr Tims at dropping the current ammonia levels.

Yes refrigerated , they only had one bottle left!!! My tank is 29 and it says that one bottle should be use for a 25g, so I am not sure if maybe that’s the reason why it’s not working .. well the fish seems happy, playing with the sand lol. The hawkfish is swimming and watching me, the starfish is moving so not sure.

 

[Eve]

There only two ways Salinity can go down, IMO. There is either too much fresh water in the mix, or the salt you use mixes that way. I would raise it a tad when you do a water change by making your salt a little more salty. Remember that you’ll be mixing it with hypo-saline water when you add it to your tank. The goal is to get it as close to 1.025 or 1.026 as possible. Fortunately, salt concentration is easy to fix. One good thing is hyposaline water is often used when fish are sick as many bad things won’t survive in hyposaline water. Your fish may be a little better during the cycle. Those questions are better answered by @ngoodermuth or @4FordFamily (and others). They are our local sick fish experts. I am not really an expert on anything...

Hi , I use nutri sea water, it comes mixed already. I guess I will add more right now.

 

[BestMomEver]

Hi , I use nutri sea water, it comes mixed already. I guess I will add more right now.

Wait... how are you measuring Salinity? Do you have a hydrometer or a refractometer? Hydrometers are not very accurate. It can get you in the general range but a refractometer is better. If all you’ve used is nutri Sea, it should be right. Perhaps it’s the way you’re measuring it.

 

[Eve]

Wait... how are you measuring Salinity? Do you have a hydrometer or a refractometer? Hydrometers are not very accurate. It can get you in the general range but a refractometer is better. If all you’ve used is nutri Sea, it should be right. Perhaps it’s the way you’re measuring it.

Oh boy.. a Hydrometer I guess I will order a refractometer right now lol

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Thank you @BestMomEver!! I will definitely keep that in mind. I only want the fish to live comfortably and happy!! I even took the day off work just so I can watch the tank lol.

@IslandLifeReef Yes!!I added fritz and I checked the ammonia levels this morning and they are still a little high. Nitrates went down to 50. Also, I checked the salinity of the water and it’s really low.. 22 , SG 1.016. Is it normal that after using this product the salinity of the water goes down? Because yesterday it was 1.026.

Great!! I see that @BestMomEver already answered the salinity question. Don't worry about nitrates yet. Until your nitrites are at 0 ppm, you will get a false high reading for nitrate. I made those bold because they are different things. Nitrites won't be zero until a few days, or a week after your ammonia gets to 0 ppm. This is just how the cycle works. The good news is that nitrites aren't harmful to marine fish unless the concentrations are very high.

Edit: If you are using premixed water, I would compare what the premixed water measures in your hydrometer to the water in your tank. If they are the same, you probably don't have an issue with salinity.

 

[BestMomEver]

Oh boy.. a Hydrometer I guess I will order a refractometer right now lol

You have time to order one. And it doesn’t have to be the most expensive one to be accurate. Bulk Reef Supply has them at a good price. The reason you don’t have to rush is because of the water you’re using. If you stay with the nutri sea, you’ll be ok until you get a refractometer.

 

[Matt Carden]

Welcome to R2R and to reefing!

@reefsquad I think this thread is the perfect example of a new reefer getting many different opinions that are all good in some situations but not necessarily in this situation and that some of these opinions are contradicting each other. This is one of these situations where @Eve needs a mentor to help her get on track and everyone else step back.

 

[BestMomEver]

Oh boy.. a Hydrometer I guess I will order a refractometer right now lol

We can also talk about test kits. I’m sure you’re using API test kits because that’s what most fish stores sell. But for anything other than ammonia they aren’t the most accurate. While you’re ordering the hydrometer pick up some Salifert test kits. They’re inexpensive, easy to use and accurate. You only need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for now. Maybe pH but API is ok for that. If you want to get everything you will ever need, you can also get calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and phosphate but you won’t need those for a while. If you want to get just a few, grab phosphate, then alkalinity.

You won’t need the calcium and magnesium until you start keeping corals but alkalinity can be a good measure of the others. If it’s ok, the calcium and Mag will probably be acceptable.

I’m sure I’ll think of more. As you will soon figure out, you will save nothing by buying cheap. I have boxes of stuff that I bought trying to save money, that I eventually had to replace. It’s better to save up and buy better quality. Everybody buys stuff that they later replace because it was inexpensive and advertised as “just as good” as something else but turned out not to be. Everybody. Even those with huge stunning aquariums have closets of junk. I guarantee it.

Edit...I see I just contradicted myself.... expensive equipment, inexpensive refractometer. Geez... better idea... shop around. And ask questions.

 

[Eve]

We can also talk about test kits. I’m sure you’re using API test kits because that’s what most fish stores sell. But for anything other than ammonia they aren’t the most accurate. While you’re ordering the hydrometer pick up some Salifert test kits. They’re inexpensive, easy to use and accurate. You only need ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for now. Maybe pH but API is ok for that. If you want to get everything you will ever need, you can also get calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and phosphate but you won’t need those for a while. If you want to get just a few, grab phosphate, then alkalinity.

You won’t need the calcium and magnesium until you start keeping corals but alkalinity can be a good measure of the others. If it’s ok, the calcium and Mag will probably be acceptable.

I’m sure I’ll think of more. As you will soon figure out, you will save nothing by buying cheap. I have boxes of stuff that I bought trying to save money, that I eventually had to replace. It’s better to save up and buy better quality. Everybody buys stuff that they later replace because it was inexpensive and advertised as “just as good” as something else but turned out not to be. Everybody. Even those with huge stunning aquariums have closets of junk. I guarantee it.

Edit...I see I just contradicted myself.... expensive equipment, inexpensive refractometer. Geez... better idea... shop around. And ask questions.

I am using Api from the saltwater kit to read the ammonia and high Ph and for nitrates Salifert. I am just going to go to the store and buy the refractometer and the salifert test for nitrites and ammonia, online its gonna take forever!

 

[BestMomEver]

I am using Api from the saltwater kit to read the ammonia and high Ph and for nitrates Salifert. I am just going to go to the store and buy the refractometer and the salifert test for nitrites and ammonia, online its gonna take forever!

Perfect... you’re headed in the right direction. I only said order cause I have to order everything just about. Not many people around here sell higher end stuff.

 

[MnFish1]

Yes refrigerated , they only had one bottle left!!! My tank is 29 and it says that one bottle should be use for a 25g, so I am not sure if maybe that’s the reason why it’s not working .. well the fish seems happy, playing with the sand lol. The hawkfish is swimming and watching me, the starfish is moving so not sure.

If you anemone still looks as good as it did at first - the bacteria should be 'working'.

Also, I checked the salinity of the water and it’s really low.. 22 , SG 1.016. Is it normal that after using this product the salinity of the water goes down? Because yesterday it was 1.026.

As far as the salinity - if you're SG yesterday was 1.026 and today it's 1.016 (which is what I read) - the most likely thing is measurement error (unsure which 1 either the 1.016 or the 1.026) - or error mixing up your salt - or both. As others have said - a refractometer (that is properly calibrated) will be more accurate.

You said the salinity was .22 - 1.016 - today - thats a huge drop. One suggestion - measure the water you mixed up before doing the water change (before adding to your tank) PS - don't do water changes (except using the directions on the Fritz Turbo) - if you do you may also be removing bacteria.

 

[BestMomEver]

The only thing I would correct in this - is that - some of the 'bacteria in a bottle' recommends adding fish immediately (as the ammonia source) - as compared to Dr. Tims (who recommends adding ammonia for a certain time).

If she is feeding lightly (and they will do fine with light feedings) - it should be no problem at all. Everyone seems to be recommending something on - partial information (an API ammonia and no nitrite - and a high nitrate - which may or may not be a false positive.

But - I have so say as usual - you did a great summary @BestMomEver You may need to change your handle to 'bestaquaristever' - unless @Paul B has that one already copyrighted: Yes Paul that was a joke

More like the bestperpetualnewbieever!

 

[AcanthurusRex]

Careful you might get an bacterial bloom adding all these products. You’ll probably need to aerate the tank if this happens.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Get some Fritz 900 to speed up the process. The kind that's in the fridge at the store.

Speed up? There is Nothing fast in saltwater. 900 will help with bacteria cultures and cycling time but stocking quickly will not end well as it usually does not

 

[PhilT]

Couple other things... hawkish wiil usually attack shrimp, crabs and snails, especially shrimp so keep that in mind.

Also did you buy that anemone for the clownfish? That is also know as a Condylactus. They don’t host clownfish. They will move around.

 

[RobW]

What kind of water are you using to do water changes with? I would make sure that you go get ro/di water from the LFS or invest 150.00 to get a basic starter RO/DI that you can use at home. Look on bulk reef supply. I think they have a 75 gallon per day value unit for about 150.00. You can always add or upgrade components to it down the road.

 

[RobW]

Thank you!! And yes that’s what I was doing! Adding conditioner to tap water. I was told not to get a RODI and ATO for such small tank, that it won’t be necessary ugh now I am mad. I will stop the conditioner tho. Thank you!!

You dont need an auto top off. You can just do the ro/di. The lfs probably just wants you to keep coming I. And buying his ro/di water at .50 - 1.00 a gallon and who knows when the last time he changed the filters. Sorry, I have a really hard time trusting anyone who is trying to sell stuff. Research is all I can say. Read, read, read. Then patience and discipline in this hobby will the best results.

 

[EJReef]

So should I stop using the stability from seachem then? If I am going to be using the Fritz?
And the anemone I think I am just going to return it. I am not too happy about the way is looking!

It's not looking good because you're not supposed to add livestock when you're cycling a tank