Order of Operations

[00Barracuda00]

Found a sweet deal on a Reefer 350. Came with sump and plumbing, got a couple bucks knocked off for missing ATO.

I don't have anything else yet, but I'm ok with being patient. I need to give the DT and sump a good vinegar bath anyway, might as well scrub away while things are on order.

But in what order, should I order?

Right now, I need a return pump so I can begin flushing/cleaning the tank and sump. My intention is to fill it up with some tap water and throw in some vinegar to break things up a bit. Would that hurt the new pump at all or should I just use elbow grease and go the hard way?

RODI, salt, sand and rocks will be next (in that order). Should I prioritize lights before powerheads?

And final question (yeah right), can anyone recommend a good basic testing kit? My understanding is that not all are created equal.

 

[bobman]

The return pump is a good idea along with lights and a skimmer and whatever else you want to run on the system. You will find that even though you can run the pump while cleaning it that will actually be pointless. That elbow grease will be used lol? Get the rodi and salt but wait on the sand a rocks unless you are buying dry rock. If it is dry rock then the order in which you order is of no importance. If buying live you will want to wait because the live rock will likely be shipped over night but the rodi will not. Now you will have rocks but no water to put them in killing the rock. Just plan what you want you run and order accordingly so save on shipping costs where you can. In the end I am sure you will forget something but you can save a considerable amount of money bulk shipping items instead of individually

 

[miPapareef]

Good luck with the new tank, it’s a nice one.

I’ll try to answer all the questions in order.

Yes equipment can run in vinegar solutions. I mix 50:50 with rodi and run all my equipment for 30 minutes every few months to clean them. Some people run longer, like 24 hours, so you’re new pump will be ok.

I would prioritize power heads before lights. You’ll want the flow while you are cycling the tank but you don’t need or want the lights on until after the tank is cycled. They would just cause algae growth.

I started with the Red Sea kits which are good and easy to use. After the first kit ran out I went to Hanna checkers for alkalinity and phosphorus and Salifert for nitrate.

 

[00Barracuda00]

The return pump is a good idea along with lights and a skimmer and whatever else you want to run on the system. You will find that even though you can run the pump while cleaning it that will actually be pointless. That elbow grease will be used lol? Get the rodi and salt but wait on the sand a rocks unless you are buying dry rock. If it is dry rock then the order in which you order is of no importance. If buying live you will want to wait because the live rock will likely be shipped over night but the rodi will not. Now you will have rocks but no water to put them in killing the rock. Just plan what you want you run and order accordingly so save on shipping costs where you can. In the end I am sure you will forget something but you can save a considerable amount of money bulk shipping items instead of individually

Yup, totally forgot to ask about the skimmer. How important is the skimmer to cycling the tank? My homework suggests that for best results, there's a period where most people leave the skimmer off while the tank cycles, but after they have it dialed in. Would it be difficult to break in adding it well after the tank cycles? Would it help accelerate the cycle?

Good luck with the new tank, it’s a nice one.

I’ll try to answer all the questions in order.

Yes equipment can run in vinegar solutions. I mix 50:50 with rodi and run all my equipment for 30 minutes every few months to clean them. Some people run longer, like 24 hours, so you’re new pump will be ok.

I would prioritize power heads before lights. You’ll want the flow while you are cycling the tank but you don’t need or want the lights on until after the tank is cycled. They would just cause algae growth.

I started with the Red Sea kits which are good and easy to use. After the first kit ran out I went to Hanna checkers for alkalinity and phosphorus and Salifert for nitrate.

How long did the Red Sea kit last you on average?

 

[bobman]

I have always run my skimmer while the tank cycles. There have been many debates on the issue and both sides have pros and cons. Me I like to get it dialed in while the tank is cycling and not trying to figure it out once I have livestock in the tank. Its all a personal preference at the end of the day.

 

[miPapareef]

How long did the Red Sea kit last you on average?

The first kit I bought was this one https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/red-sea-marine-care-test-kit.html

Kit includes:

• 100 Ammonia test kits

• 100 Nitrate test kits

• 60 Nitrite test kits

• 100 pH test kits

• 55 Alkalinity test kits

I think those test quantities are accurate. How long that will last you depends on how often you test.

Looking at my order history:
1st kit purchased 12/29/16
Hanna alk and phos tester 5/8/17
So about 5 months

 

[AcanthurusRex]

RODI, salt, sand and rocks and ATO in this case. Start the cycle; Dr Tim's for example and ammonium chloride.
Find lights and powerheads while cycling. Don't need a skimmer at first but they are good for aeration; I have a Skimz and would pick something else if I were to do it again, most likely a Nyos.
QT first fish while cycling tank.
RedSea "Pro" test kits work well for Nitrate, Mg and Ca. Hanna for Alk, phosphorus ULR and copper; Calcium and Phosphate are a waste of money. I'd just use a seachem badge for ammonia during the cycle.
There is a big thread on Red Sea Reefers which is a must-read.

 

[miPapareef]

I have always run my skimmer while the tank cycles. There have been many debates on the issue and both sides have pros and cons. Me I like to get it dialed in while the tank is cycling and not trying to figure it out once I have livestock in the tank. Its all a personal preference at the end of the day.

+1

 

[00Barracuda00]

The first kit I bought was this one https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/red-sea-marine-care-test-kit.html

Kit includes:

• 100 Ammonia test kits

• 100 Nitrate test kits

• 60 Nitrite test kits

• 100 pH test kits

• 55 Alkalinity test kits

I think those test quantities are accurate. How long that will last you depends on how often you test.

Looking at my order history:
1st kit purchased 12/29/16
Hanna alk and phos tester 5/8/17
So about 5 months

Added it to the shopping list. Thanks!!

RODI, salt, sand and rocks and ATO in this case. Start the cycle; Dr Tim's for example and ammonium chloride.
Find lights and powerheads while cycling. Don't need a skimmer at first but they are good for aeration; I have a Skimz and would pick something else if I were to do it again, most likely a Nyos.
QT first fish while cycling tank.
RedSea "Pro" test kits work well for Nitrate, Mg and Ca. Hanna for Alk, phosphorus ULR and copper; Calcium and Phosphate are a waste of money. I'd just use a seachem badge for ammonia during the cycle.
There is a big thread on Red Sea Reefers which is a must-read.

What don't you like about the Skimz? I was looking at the Vertex OMEGA 150.


As far as the Hanna testers go, should I wait until I'm ready for corals? My plan was to start FOWLR and slowly (very slowly) build from there.

 

[AcanthurusRex]

The Skims has a tendency to foul the air vents in the cup lid. It works and is built OK but it cost about the same as the Nyos or Vertex.
The DC motor on the Skimz has failed once. I always run flat out so I don't need a DC motor plus the controller and power brick.
I didn't pick the Vertex because of the pump failures and the wait for replacement parts. I picked the Skimz because BRS sell replacement parts.
Doesn't the Omega have the detached pump; kinda large for a Reefer sump.
You can hold off on most of the tests if you don't have demanding corals and rely on water changes for chemistry. I think a FOWLR is a good idea until you get a good balance. You will never use all those ammonia and nitrate tests which is why I suggested using the seachem badge. The RedSea "Pro" kits are better and the nitrate kit will be the only one you will ever use again after the cycle.
I can say first hand that a good RODI and saltwater mixing station is one of the most important items long term. Lot of info on mixing stations on R2R.

 

[00Barracuda00]

I can say first hand that a good RODI and saltwater mixing station is one of the most important items long term. Lot of info on mixing stations on R2R.

When I was doing my homework, I thought for sure a big mixing station would be out of the question. Once I found that thread, boy did my options open up.

 

[Greneis]

RedSea "Pro" test kits work well for Nitrate, Mg and Ca. Hanna for Alk, phosphorus ULR and copper; Calcium and Phosphate are a waste of money. .

This is an older post, but I am reading different threads as I am setting up my own. I have a 32Bio Reef and I test ALL of those. Why would you say Calcium and Phosphate are a waste? Calcium is the one that is the biggest pain to test for, maybe I don't need to waste my time on that one??

 

[AcanthurusRex]

The Hanna Calcium test is very tedious, time-consuming and not very repeatable. I found the Red Sea Calcium test with simple titration quicker and repeatable.
Most cases the phosphate levels are very low and the Phosphate test will not measure 0.002 ppm. You will end up with both test kits, as I have. However, I have repurposed that Phosphate test for nitrate testing since it works in the low range below 1ppm.

 

[MnFish1]

I would power wash the rock, soak in bleach 1:10 over a couple days - change the water every day. Power wash again - put in a container with RODI and Chlorine neutralizer - Rinse again - then put into a bucket/bin / whatever with NSW - check the phosphate before (should be 0 - and in 3 days) if its not climbing (>.03) you dont need to worry about PO4. If it is - you can try the muriatic acid bath.

I always cycle my rock in the tank. Running the filter/skimmer/heater etc - as if it were running normally. I usually add Fish and bottled bacteria on Day 1 - I dont bother with weeks of ammonia testing, etc. (Actually I have never used bleach or muriatic acid either) - and have never had a problem. however most would call this heresy. Check out @Lasse 's method for cycling a tank with fish from the start. Firstly its more interesting than having a bunch of wet rocks in your living room for months. Secondly - it seems to work as well.

 

[Lasse]

Check out @Lasse 's method for cycling a tank with fish from the start. Firstly its more interesting than having a bunch of wet rocks in your living room for months. Secondly - it seems to work as well.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[PatW]

Things to start with:

RODI - also get a storage container, a Brute trash can works fine and can be put on casters. A mixing container for saltwater. a power head or two for mixing the saltwater, And a pump with tubing to pump water from RODI to salt container.

Powerheads for your aquarium. Try for more turnover than you think you need.

Refractometer.

Testing kits for nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia for cycling.
Alkalinity and calcium test kit.

Something to clean the glass of your aquarium.

Assorted food safe buckets.

Air pump and stones.

Be thinking of your quarantine tank set up and protocol. Plan to quarantine fish.