Orphek OR3 Reef Day Plus w/Radion Xr15

Wasabiroot

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Hi
Looking for input on the Orphek day plus bars. I currently use an XR15 blue but have been researching supplemental lighting for my sps. I have considered t5s and have not written them off, but this post is specifically regarding the day plus bars. On a 50g cube approx 19" to sand bed, would a single 24" bar be doable? How is the hotspotting/disco on these bars? Is there a way to mount the bar to the RMS mount (specifically the back of tank mount)?
Finally, it appears orphek has been working on a dimmer - is there a diy workaround or is the non dimmable nature not that big of a deal? How does the spectrum look?

Thx for input :)
 

vetteguy53081

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Hi
Looking for input on the Orphek day plus bars. I currently use an XR15 blue but have been researching supplemental lighting for my sps. I have considered t5s and have not written them off, but this post is specifically regarding the day plus bars. On a 50g cube approx 19" to sand bed, would a single 24" bar be doable? How is the hotspotting/disco on these bars? Is there a way to mount the bar to the RMS mount (specifically the back of tank mount)?
Finally, it appears orphek has been working on a dimmer - is there a diy workaround or is the non dimmable nature not that big of a deal? How does the spectrum look?

Thx for input :)
The day plus is higher in white intensity whereas the sky blue will be a brighter blue intensity
 

oreo54

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Finally, it appears orphek has been working on a dimmer -

First...Bwahahahahaha.

is there a diy workaround or is the non
dimmable nature not that big of a deal?

Sure, just buy a new driver and of course some sort of controller.
More than likely one that does analog or 10 v pwm or possibly just use a manual potentiometer.

Sometimes you will change specs slightly.
Or-120 bar, 36 diodes, 2 parallel strings of
either 2*18 or 3* 12
Assuming an average v( f) of 3.4 per diode, 61.2 v (2 strings) or 40.8 v (. 3 strings).
Let's guess at 2 Soo each gets 500mA.



35-65v 1a is one driver.
Meanwell LCM-60 U
Specs... 700mA, 2-72 volts,
3 way dimming inc. 10v analog.

Yea not 1000mA but it will probably last a lot longer. :)

Inventronics has better matching drivers than Meanwell for these.They are just hard to find..

Now as to my laughter...Orphek just needs to ask their driver supplier.

See they are choosing not to provide a dimmable driver..afaict.

I played this substitution game before and always found a workable solution. Don't feel like doing it again. Just match numbers...High side needs equal or greater voltage. Low side equal or less voltage. Sometimes can be higher. Depends on the REAL voltage the bar needs at the stated mA's.
Above calcs show voltage to be anywhere from 40.8 - 61.2 depending on topology. There is only one real answer, though it does change with diode heating a bit.
Point is the 35v isn't a solid barrier.
High end is if designed right but also not always "absolute".
This is just, short of real measurements, how one can correctly match drivers with different specs .
Btw " my" driver now only provides 350 mA per string( if 2) instead of the 500 as possibly designed.
38w vs 54w approx.

Too much? :)
OH as to a big deal...your choice really.
 
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Acros

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I can answer some of your questions.

Q. How many do you need?
A. You need 2, ideally spaced 2-3" away from the main light on either sides.

Q. How to mount there bars to the RMS mount?
A. Here is my mounting solution: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/im-25-third-times-a-charm.827797/post-10047140

led_mount_1.jpeg

led_mount_2.jpeg

Pics were taken with a very blue spectrum and are not representative of how they look in real life. The original order was alternating 420nm and 470nm LEDs. I have since changed out every 3rd LED to 10000k cool white to achieve an AB+ look without looking like Windex.

Note 1: There are a lot complaints about hotspots with OR3 bars mounted at low heights of about 8-9" off the waterline. Unless orphek changed their lens, you are better off with an LED bar with 120-degree lenses.

Reef breeders sell them for around orphek price, or you could directly go to the supplier on aliexpress (populargrow LED bars). Populargrow will offer a custom spectrum for approximately $60-70 a light, including shipping. Alternating 420nm, 470nm, 10000k cool white LEDs look very much like the AB+ on XR15 Blue (change out cool white to natural white or warm white for a 10k look). I have not noticed any disco effect from my populargrow lights.

Another brand to consider would be quanta pro lights by Mahina corals. Offers more PAR than any other 24" LED bars.

Note 2: My tank is only 15" front to back, and hence I had to mount the LED bars closer to my radions. Since you have 24" front to back, you can space the bars towards the end of the mount and make it look more appealing.
 
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First...Bwahahahahaha.



Sure, just buy a new driver and of course some sort of controller.
More than likely one that does analog or 10 v pwm or possibly just use a manual potentiometer.

Sometimes you will change specs slightly.
Or-120 bar, 36 diodes, 2 parallel strings of
either 2*18 or 3* 12
Assuming an average v( f) of 3.4 per diode, 61.2 v (2 strings) or 40.8 v (. 3 strings).
Let's guess at 2 Soo each gets 500mA.



35-65v 1a is one driver.
Meanwell LCM-60 U
Specs... 700mA, 2-72 volts,
3 way dimming inc. 10v analog.

Yea not 1000mA but it will probably last a lot longer. :)

Inventronics has better matching drivers than Meanwell for these.They are just hard to find..

Now as to my laughter...Orphek just needs to ask their driver supplier.

See they are choosing not to provide a dimmable driver..afaict.

I played this substitution game before and always found a workable solution. Don't feel like doing it again. Just match numbers...High side needs equal or greater voltage. Low side equal or less voltage. Sometimes can be higher. Depends on the REAL voltage the bar needs at the stated mA's.
Above calcs show voltage to be anywhere from 40.8 - 61.2 depending on topology. There is only one real answer, though it does change with diode heating a bit.
Point is the 35v isn't a solid barrier.
High end is if designed right but also not always "absolute".
This is just, short of real measurements, how one can correctly match drivers with different specs .
Btw " my" driver now only provides 350 mA per string( if 2) instead of the 500 as possibly designed.
38w vs 54w approx.

Too much? :)

Or as to a big deal...your choice really.
I am aware that they have talked about a dimmer for years with a delay, I should have clarified. Nice technical information
 

mtraylor

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If you are buying orphek led bar on the promise of diming. Then don't fall into the trap and look else where. I have been waiting for years with nothing but disappointment. The chatter now is nothing more than the chatter from several years ago. All blow and no go.

If you like the orphek led bars for what they bring to table as far as looks spectrum etc. Then go for it as they are a great led bar which provide tremendous colors on corals. Just plan on standard on/off for the fixture. Nothing more than that in any foreseeable future.
 
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I went with a 2ft Quanta Pro - Tropic Sun to start. I like the wider spread mentioned and the fact that it's a small company. Will have to update with my impressions! I think the day spectrum will help balance the XR blue and my acros should appreciate the white (especially the red planet and frag farmer red robin).

Those populargrow lights btw - great price. Would be cool on a nano
 

oreo54

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60, 90 driver:
We weOutput : Voltage :40V-80V DC . Current :550mA

Replacement dimmable driver w/ only 50mA loss.

IDLC-45A-500.
54-90 volts..

For 60 and 90 series
18 diodes and 24 diodes .
say an average of 3.3v.
59.4 and 79.2v

Getting the actual voltage (actually I HOPE someone will eventually do this, sure would be helpful) will confirm usability.

Sorry, needed to finish this
 
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60, 90 driver:
We weOutput : Voltage :40V-80V DC . Current :550mA

Replacement dimmable driver w/ only 50mA loss.

IDLC-45A-500.
54-90 volts..

For 60 and 90 series
18 diodes and 24 diodes .
say an average of 3.3v.
59.4 and 79.2v

Getting the actual voltage (actually I HOPE someone will eventually) will confirm usability.

Sorry, needed to finish this
Hey, I appreciate you working that out - hopefully will be of some use to someone. I'll have to remember to reach out to you for any technical LED questions involving drivers etc!
 
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