Overflow Tuning Issues

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NotoriousENG

NotoriousENG

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Or run a water level sensor inside the DT and shut down the return pump???
Ohh I like that idea! I will be looking into that for sure! Since I work from home it's not big of an issue in the short term since I can watch the weir teeth for any clogging. I do, however, want to do some traveling at some point so a sensor like that would go a long way towards peace of mind.
 
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DaddyFish

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Ohh I like that idea! I will be looking into that for sure! Since I work from home it's not big of an issue in the short term since I can watch the weir teeth for any clogging. I do, however, want to do some traveling at some point so a sensor like that would go a long way towards peace of mind.
I won't take away your fun of researching a sensor. Just check the specs for max wall thickness. I found a couple made for RO systems that have 1/2" max.
 
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Ooops!!! Bad idea!!!
You'll need a different sensor as this one is rated for 1/4" thick glass maximum. I'll look again.
I actually think this one would work. I have not measured my glass thickness but since the display tank is a standard 20 gallon long I'm pretty positive it is under a 1/4". Thin glass is one of the reasons I will be installing strong pipe straps to take the weight of the drian lines off the glass.
 
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NotoriousENG

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Started the final leak test yesterday with the main drain now extending less into the sump. Also made sure to run the pump flat out with the gate valve all the way open a good amount of time (didn't time it but atleast 20 minutes). I then dialed the pump back a bit and Slowly closed the main valve off, dialed in the overflow height and everything looked good. I didn't observe the strange intermetitent cycle of filling and draining of the overflow at all last night so I was hopeful the issue was resolved.

This morning however the issue struck one again and then reoccured 5 or 6 times through out the day at random time periods. I did not adjust the drains at all today as it looked to be running at the right height. The only thing I have done to the tank all day was to increase the pump power by 1% after the issue hit a few times to see if it helped (it didn't).

I also checked the outlet voltage as quickly as I could once I noticed the box beggining to drain as I was wondering if there were voltage fluctations. Unless I was too slow getting the probes in and missed it the outlet was consistently 120 ~ 122 VAC so that can be ruled out.


I was able to grab a video of the issue this time. When it the issue occurs the box drains quickly so I was not able to catch the whole thing on video. Prior to the start of the video (and rapid drain of the box) the water level was running just barley at the top of the emergency overflow like seen at the end of the video.

Any advice is greatly appreciated as the thought of having invested much time and money into this tank and it having equipment issue before its even running is stressing me out ;Dead
 

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Or run a water level sensor inside the DT and shut down the return pump???

1627267370966.png


Ooops!!! Bad idea!!!
You'll need a different sensor as this one is rated for 1/4" thick glass maximum. I'll look again.
If you go this route - use a float switch. The optical sensors are sensitive to splashes, surface water movement caused by powerbeads, etc. Float switch is a bit more forgiving for the normal small surface water level variances.
 
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I have a eclipse medium. If you have room you can add like egg crate in the wier. In the external box, im not sure how big the box is but can you fit a 90 elbow and street in there? I know in mine i have to shorten them up to fit them. Then drill a hole on the top to purge air.
 
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If you go this route - use a float switch. The optical sensors are sensitive to splashes, surface water movement caused by powerbeads, etc. Float switch is a bit more forgiving for the normal small surface water level variances.
I decided to sand down to the top of the box just a tiny bit so now water spills over the top of the weir box before the tank overflows.

I still will probably look into some sort of switch for extra peace of mind if I am going to be away for extended periods
 

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When adjusting your overflow, you need to adjust one or the other, not both. Everytime you adjust your return pump, it changes the flow through your drain pipe. The goal is to match the waterflow on both your return lines and your drain lines.

I'm not experienced enough on how to stop the purging cycle, but you might try a 180 bend (similar to beananimal setups) on your primary drain. It sounds like you are still draining just a hair faster than your return. I think you're close, just keep messing with it.

I'm fighting micro bubbles and my skimmer atm, so I feel your frustration
 
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NotoriousENG

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For some reason my gut is telling me your pump is surging.
I was starting to suspect this as well but was hoping it wasn't the case.

That is a possibly. Op, maybe try switching pumps if you have the means? That way you could eliminate the pump being an issue.
This is my first sumped tank so sadly I don't have any other pumps on hand to test with. I suppose I could I could just with it for a few weeks till I can get a differnt pump.
 
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NotoriousENG

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Was checking over everything and noticed that there was a small leak where the pvc mates to the pump. Very small, just a very very slow ooze or drip. This conneciton was underwater in the sump so I didn't see it before. Not sure if these that joint is supposed to be glued or not, i.e. the adapter that came with the pump glued to the pvc?

Anyways not sure if that would could be causing intermitent losses in flow cuasing the fill drain? To test I temporaily switched the pump conneciton to a barb and soft hose.
 
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Its pump surging...

Tuned the valve so a good bit of water is going down the emergency drain the waited. The water level will go from heavy flow down to emergency to none and back again. I can also see it in the amount of water coming through the weir teeth.
 
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