Oxydators and their fight against parasites.

[atoll]

Hi @Lasse
Hi @atoll

Quick update on using the oxidator against ICH

Pretty much all the white spots on all the fish are gone.
everybody is very active and locks happy.

But I believe that this could just be the normal live cycle of ICH and it’s just waiting in the substrate for the next round.
I followed the advice and re plumbed the UV
Now the in and out take is directly in the DT.

For some reason, my nitrates and phosphates dropped to 0.
I started feeding quick heavy but still no detectable levels.
The fish and corals are loving the extra food.
I turned the light time above the chaeto down to 6 hours.
I haven’t ID them but I believe some dinos started to grow. Maybe the low nutrient levels + the “new tank” environment are just to welcoming for dinos.

anyways, I am more optimistic every day about the Oxidator.
That was (is) a scary ICH outbreak with everyone involved heavily. It started over a week ago and so far, no deaths.

Thanks again for all your support!
It would be very difficult (impossible) without it.

Why did you put the UV back on when things were going inbthe right direction as it could interfere with the work of the Oxydator?

 

[Lasse]

Why did you put the UV back on when things were going inbthe right direction as it could interfere with the work of the Oxydator?

@atoll I´m not sure that the UV-C will interfere in a bad way with the oxydator - instead its my believe that it will strengthen the oxidator´s capability to defeat the ick. Please for a short idea - see here

UVP-system - Raydar AB

UV-light and hydrogen peroxide produce clean, clear, odourless water. The UVP-system is a combination of adding hydrogen peroxide to bath […]

www.raydar.se

Sincerely Lasse

 

[chris new reefer]

Why did you put the UV back on when things were going inbthe right direction as it could interfere with the work of the Oxydator?

It was on and running the whole time.
it was just feeding from the sump into the sump.
now it’s feeding from the display into the display to be more effective.
the upcoming dino made me do that.
they are not covering the substrate or rocks in the night. They increase a lot while the lights are on.
so I guess they are floating in the water and I hope to interact in the early stage.

Also there are quite a few opinions in uv being effective in the free floating stage of the ICH. So I thought that might be a good idea.

Do think is has a negative effect on the oxidator?

 

[atoll]

It was on and running the whole time.
it was just feeding from the sump into the sump.
now it’s feeding from the display into the display to be more effective.
the upcoming dino made me do that.
they are not covering the substrate or rocks in the night. They increase a lot while the lights are on.
so I guess they are floating in the water and I hope to interact in the early stage.

Also there are quite a few opinions in uv being effective in the free floating stage of the ICH. So I thought that might be a good idea.

Do think is has a negative effect on the oxidator?

OK gotcha I don't run UV az you may know. I stopped using it once I found my Oxydator seemed to be all O needed to keep itch at bay.

 

[atoll]

@atoll I´m not sure that the UV-C will interfere in a bad way with the oxydator - instead its my believe that it will strengthen the oxidator´s capability to defeat the ick. Please for a short idea - see here

UVP-system - Raydar AB

UV-light and hydrogen peroxide produce clean, clear, odourless water. The UVP-system is a combination of adding hydrogen peroxide to bath […]

www.raydar.se

Sincerely Lasse

Gotcha, see my reply to the op.

 

[chris new reefer]

OK gotcha I don't run UV az you may know. I stopped using it once I found my Oxydator seemed to be all O needed to keep itch at bay.

Thank you.
definitely something to consider.
maybe after this “ride” I lower the use of uv a bit and see how it goes. Les equipment is always better.

 

[DaddyFish]

I've only seen two models of the Oxydator, a Mini and D. The D is most often described as for tanks up to 26-gals. Are you Oxydatorists using more than one unit per tank or a different model?

 

[atoll]

I've only seen two models of the Oxydator, a Mini and D. The D is most often described as for tanks up to 26-gals. Are you Oxydatorists using more than one unit per tank or a different model?

There are 2 larger Oxydators suitable for larger aquaria. The Model A and W. Therecare 2 further larger Oxydators but unless you have a pond size aquarium then we can discount them for our use.
Here are the 4 models mostly use. The A is the one with what looks like a ball on the top. The larger W has a strap over the top.

 

[DaddyFish]

There are 2 larger Oxydators suitable for larger aquaria. The Model A and W. Therecare 2 further larger Oxydators but unless you have a pond size aquarium then we can discount them for our use.
Here are the 4 models mostly use. The A is the one with what looks like a ball on the top. The larger W has a strap over the top.

My largest tank is 814L / 215 gal. So the "W" is the one, or do you suggest two "A" models?

 

[atoll]

My largest tank is 814L / 215 gal. So the "W" is the one, or do you suggest two "A" models?

If you can fit the W go with that if not 2 x As

 

[Anthony Scholfield]

Curious if anyone running an oxidator also runs a skimmer? Im assuming there is a difference.....very interested in the oxidator thing

 

[atoll]

Curious if anyone running an oxidator also runs a skimmer? Im assuming there is a difference.....very interested in the oxidator thing

Most of is using an Oxydator also run a skimmer. They do different things.

 

[Anthony Scholfield]

Most of is using an Oxydator also run a skimmer. They do different things.

Thanks! I figured so but wasnt sure if running both would have some weird effect. I totally want to try this!

 

[Reefvision]

Hi, been using oxydator “w” for some time now and when depleted of h202 it will float to the surface of dt or sump ( I have tried in both locations) I have not had any problems since it’s been in use. I use diluted 35%toaprox. 12% and 3reactors (I think that’s the name) for 230gal. System. I did note that if the h202 is mixed too strong (ie >12%) my corals would retract some but eventually recover ok.

 

[atoll]

Hi, been using oxydator “w” for some time now and when depleted of h202 it will float to the surface of dt or sump ( I have tried in both locations) I have not had any problems since it’s been in use. I use diluted 35%toaprox. 12% and 3reactors (I think that’s the name) for 230gal. System. I did note that if the h202 is mixed too strong (ie >12%) my corals would retract some but eventually recover ok.

They are catalysts. 12% is the strongest I recommend in an Oxydator for most applications.

 

[atoll]

Recently there was a post on a well known UK reefkeeping site from a guy experiencing a power cut. The usual replies were forthcoming however, no mention of an Oxydator so I posted about the usefulness of an Oxydator in such situations. Unfortunately there was one negative reply to my post by a well know poster on there, I have posted it below.
"But an air pump is easier, much more familiar for people and doesn't require anything other than batteries.

I'd be happy asking anyone in the house to drop an air pump into a tank. I can't say the same about an oxydator!"
Am not sure if this guy has ever used an oxydator but quite probably not and I also doubt he knows how easy and safe they are however one thing I can say for sure is dropping an air pump in the tank will not help the air pump one little bit. I have never heard of a waterproof air pump before

 

[moreef]

Sorry if this was asked already. I run air stones at night for corals, would this basically be same as oxidator? Also what about skimmer and overflow adding oxygen? Never tested for oxygen but may try now, Thanks.

 

[atoll]

Sorry if this was asked already. I run air stones at night for corals, would this basically be same as oxidator? Also what about skimmer and overflow adding oxygen? Never tested for oxygen but may try now, Thanks.

You can run an Oxydator with a skimmer no problem an no interference with your overflow
An Oxydator will.put much more oxygen into the water than an air stone if that is what you are trying to achieve.

 

[Lionfish hunter]

I read some of this but there is a lot here, so forgive me if I ask questions that have been answered. This is very intriguing to me considering I have battled ich for 2 decades and just spent 45 days eradicating the current outbreak.

What size unit is needed per gallon, is there certain features needed, particular brands that work well?

Have you noticed that an active outbreak can be suppressed?

Have you had ich in the tank that was seemingly cured, and stopped usimg the oxydator to see if it comes back or has been eradicated?

I look forward to your response.

 

[Smarkow]

There is a shop in Canada now selling them I believe. A place called the shrimp tank I have been told sell them. There was a US distributor but they seem to be constantly out of stock.

I got mine from them a few weeks ago. W size, just using slightly more dilute H2O2 to account for the oversize. Quick shipping. Holding off judgement for now as I haven’t had it for long. Did notice improved water clarity quite quickly.