Ozone and run times... Trying to keep ORP numbers up

[SeptorsReef]

Alright pros, here is another Ozone question to be put out there. I am currently running my ozone from 22:00hrs to 06:00hrs and my ORP value will climb to 350 during this time, which is awesome, as that is what I'm shooting for. However, as soon as my ozone generator goes off, my ORP value plummets to 200-220. Everything I've read says that you don't want to run ozone for prolonged periods of time, and a few suggest that I'm running it too long right now. So, why are my numbers dropping? I've been running Ozone for a month now and do regular water changes. Water looks/test great.

I'm running the Poseidon 200 Ozone generator with Avast Mutiny Ozone Reactor v2.1. 120g display tank.

Thank for any help

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

If the water looks and tests great as you say, then who cares about numbers? Randy has a great orp article on here somewhere, I’ll try and dig it up

Edit…

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

 

[Miami Reef]

Higher ORP is not an indicator that it is working better.

You can use it 24/7, but don’t run it too strong. ORP is only used to detect overdoses. It will drop back down when you stop using it, but that doesn’t mean your tank is dirty.

ORP is VERY complicated and not totally understood. Don’t rely on it to determine if ozone is working.

Use activated carbon in the output to break down potential toxic byproducts.

 

[SeptorsReef]

If the water looks and tests great as you say, then who cares about numbers? Randy has a great orp article on here somewhere, I’ll try and dig it up

Edit…

https://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php

I just want the ozone for preventive maintenance, so that's why I'm chasing numbers at the moment. Perhaps you're right, but I just don't want any issues.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I just want the ozone for preventive maintenance, so that's why I'm chasing numbers at the moment. Perhaps you're right, but I just don't want any issues.

I’m no expert. I hate echo chamber people….but I I’ll echo that ozone may be one of those things where more is not necessarily better. From what I’ve read, a little can go a long way. Avast has great instructions (I have been kicking around getting one for awhile).

 

[SeptorsReef]

Higher ORP is not an indicator that it is working better.

You can use it 24/7, but don’t run it too strong. ORP is only used to detect overdoses. It will drop back down when you stop using it, but that doesn’t mean your tank is dirty.

ORP is VERY complicated and not totally understood. Don’t rely on it to determine if ozone is working.

Use activated carbon in the output to break down potential toxic byproducts.

I'm currently putting my trust into this reactor, but there are times that I'm not sure if it's truly keeping me safe... And yes, this ozone topic is very wide to say the least. I just want to make sure I'm doing that extra 1% to keep my tank as healthy as possible (and safe). I'm that newbie that's trying to get going with zero issues, lol. Of course, I know that day is coming, but I'm trying to learn from everyones mistakes and attempting to avoid them all. Currently at month four, following BRS cycle process and about to finally turn on these lights.....

 

[X-37B]

I have the same setup and run 24/7 since starting the tank 8 months ago. Orp comes on around 380 and goes off at 440.
Have had no issues and change carbon every 2 months.
Just took these.

 

[SeptorsReef]

I’m no expert. I hate echo chamber people….but I I’ll echo that ozone may be one of those things where more is not necessarily better. From what I’ve read, a little can go a long way. Avast has great instructions (I have been kicking around getting one for awhile).

Yea,it'ss a poorly known topic. I love Avast! Awesome equipment

 

[SeptorsReef]

I have the same setup and run 24/7 since starting the tank 8 months ago. Orp comes on around 380 and goes off at 440.
Have had no issues and change carbon every 2 months.
Just took these.

See, that's awesome and looks like a healthy tank! I'm using my apex to control it and that's exactly what i was thinking (running it 24/7), but this also scares me that if the ORP probe goes bad, I could really hurt the tank and possibly my family.

 

[X-37B]

See, that's awesome and looks like a healthy tank! I'm using my apex to control it and that's exactly what i was thinking (running it 24/7), but this also scares me that if the ORP probe goes bad, I could really hurt the tank and possibly my.

I do keep and extra controller/probe on hand just in case. The controller will go bad before the probe does. I clean and check the probe every 2 months when changing carbon. You must have started with dry as I used 150lbs of live rock with lights on from day one. 9 fish and 50 hard corals at this point.

 

[Miami Reef]

Currently at month four, following BRS cycle process and about to finally turn on these lights.....

I do not believe ozone is warranted in your case. It doesn’t actually remove organics; it just makes some of them smaller which reduces the yellow appearance.

New tanks don’t or shouldn’t have an excess of tannins.

ORP probes are junk IMO. Most, if not all of us cannot calibrate them, and things can grow on the tip to skew the reading.

Pick a low dose and keep it there. Your machine won’t just explode ozone one day by itself. It doesn’t work like that.

These are just my opinions

 

[C_AWOL]

Personally I just rely on the value of orp as a "general" number vs needing an "absolute" number. Even after checking calibration, I've never hit any magical milestone numbers before so I don't bother worrying about it.

If you wish to run your ozone 24/7, I suggest running it on a lower number on the dial so you're less likely to overdose it and your rely less on the orp probe + apex to save you.
For what it's worth, I run my ozotech with the dial on 4 24/7 but the system I do that on has nearly 550g of water in it and notice no yellowing during any white bucket test. That should equate to about .14mg per gal an hour assuming I'm mathing right.

 

[X-37B]

Ozone does not remove organics but does break them down which makes your skimmer more efficient.
Crystal clear water gives more penetration from your light soures too.

Although hard to prove, ozone may break down certain toxins produced from corals.

Yea keep your probe clean and put probe in calibatation solution when done cleaning. This will tell you if your probe is reading within range.

I use this as a reference after cleaning. So far its been very usefull and the only way to know if your probe is off.

 

[Miami Reef]

Ozone does not remove organics but does break them down which makes your skimmer more efficient.

Not necessarily true.

Most organic compounds likely to be found in significant quantities in a reef aquarium will become more polar and likely less skimmable after it reacts with ozone.

@Randy Holmes-Farley I could be wrong, but that 400mV solution seems too good to be true. What do you think? I’ve learned it’s extremely difficult and expensive to calibrate ORP.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I don't know what they use, but an ORP calibration fluid can theoretically be made at most any ORP value. American Marine usually seems to know what they are doing, but I know nothing about this product.

 

[X-37B]

Not necessarily true.




@Randy Holmes-Farley I could be wrong, but that 400mV solution seems too good to be true. What do you think? I’ve learned it’s extremely difficult and expensive to calibrate ORP.

Yea thats not the right wording on my end. Ozone drives the color out of the organics and when ran with carbon has been shown to increase the organics removed vs Gac alone. How thats done I believe is not known.

I dont use the solution to calibrate sInce there is no calibaratiin feature on my controller.
I just clean the probe and then drop it into the solution as a check. The orp has been 400+- 10 mv the 3 times I have checked. This is close enough from my perspective.
I just cleaned and put in the fluid for reference. So far the Pinpoint packets have worked for me.

 

[SeptorsReef]

Yea, I went the whole dry sand and rock route. I've been out of the game for nearly 20 years and my first tank was horrible. Now with all the info out here, I feel confident to try again.

 

[MnFish1]

I do not think there is any evidence that keeping ORP - at a certain level is beneficial. However - The trend of ORP is important - if it drops suddenly - look for a problem. Dosing Ozone based on ORP is also 'ok' - but realize that any algae growing on the probe will give an artificial high ORP reading - and may shut off your ozone. Speaking from broad experience, what you're trying to do is extremely difficult

 

[SeptorsReef]

Personally I just rely on the value of orp as a "general" number vs needing an "absolute" number. Even after checking calibration, I've never hit any magical milestone numbers before so I don't bother worrying about it.

If you wish to run your ozone 24/7, I suggest running it on a lower number on the dial so you're less likely to overdose it and your rely less on the orp probe + apex to save you.
For what it's worth, I run my ozotech with the dial on 4 24/7 but the system I do that on has nearly 550g of water in it and notice no yellowing during any white bucket test. That should equate to about .14mg per gal an hour assuming I'm mathing right.

Might not be a bad idea, to dose very low for 24/7. That way I can dial in my numbers while the probe is fully functionable and I wont have to worry about it later.

 

[SeptorsReef]

Ozone does not remove organics but does break them down which makes your skimmer more efficient.
Crystal clear water gives more penetration from your light soures too.

Although hard to prove, ozone may break down certain toxins produced from corals.

Yea keep your probe clean and put probe in calibatation solution when done cleaning. This will tell you if your probe is reading within range.

I use this as a reference after cleaning. So far its been very usefull and the only way to know if your probe is off.

Thanks, that's a simple idea and one that' I'll start following as well.