Par and photo period vs color

[805reeftank]

Good plan. I keep my whites at 35%. They ramp up/down for an hour with 8hrs total on and a peak from 2-3 then down at 4 to 35%
I plan to extend the peak white to 1-2 solid hrs at 80%. Currently it is only at 60% at 3pm then it ramps down so at peak is only for a few minutes currently.

Yes that makes sense if you like that spectrum at 35% I prefer more blue I like 10-15%. Most people substitute in duration for intensity because they can’t reach higher par I can up my par. So I figure let’s go up for a short time and get back down to the spectrum I prefer. Just wanted to see if anyone had better experiences, one versus the other, or if there was a study or something I missed this hobby is always changing.

 

[805reeftank]

Well that depends on a lot of factors, if your corals can even take 700 depends on flow, nutrient levels, type of light and species. I don't doubt a milli can take 700 par from LED's in the right condition, but if you give 700 to a red dragon most likely will bleach.
This is not easily answered by anyone, idc what famous name, if you search in here you can find Millies bleaching at 400. Other thing is 700 at what point of the schedule? 700 for 6/7 hours and ramp down to blues is different then 700 for a full length or 700 blues + white par.
Unfortunately you will have to try for yourself on your corals with your aquarium.

That’s the plan I’m going to keep my 4rs peak and add 5% every week. I was just wondering if anyone had experience with duration vs intensity. If one was better than the other. I have the ability to do both. Currently par is 400-600 for 4hrs peak at the beginning of the day then back down to about 350-450 till lights out.

 

[X-37B]

Yes that makes sense if you like that spectrum at 35% I prefer more blue I like 10-15%. Most people substitute in duration for intensity because they can’t reach higher par I can up my par. So I figure let’s go up for a short time and get back down to the spectrum I prefer. Just wanted to see if anyone had better experiences, one versus the other, or if there was a study or something I missed this hobby is always changing.

Yea the 35% is much whiter in person

 

[Big E]

I'm not going to go back and forth with anyone on this subject............I did that for ten years from 2010- 2020. I gave my response and suggestions to the OP.

One thing that people just don't get, especially the blue man group..............THERE ARE MASSIVE PEAKS IN THE BLUE &VIOLET AREAS UNDER FULL SPECTRUM LIGHTING EVEN THOUGH OUR EYES CAN'T SEE IT. THE OVERALL LOOK WILL BE AN ICY WHITE BLUE TO OUR EYES.

 

[805reeftank]

I'm not going to go back and forth with anyone on this subject............I did that for ten years from 2010- 2020. I gave my response and suggestions to the OP.

One thing that people just don't get, especially the blue man group..............THERE ARE MASSIVE PEAKS IN THE BLUE &VIOLET AREAS UNDER FULL SPECTRUM LIGHTING EVEN THOUGH OUR EYES CAN'T SEE IT. THE OVERALL LOOK WILL BE AN ICY WHITE BLUE TO OUR EYES.

Idk if I missed it so which do yo I think is more beneficial? Higher par short period (full spectrum) or moderate par longer period

 

[805reeftank]

Charlie,
It's approx 7 hours peak, full duration is 12 hours. I run the Helius program on Orphek Icons. Peak level is 78% of the units output. The spectrum never changes that whole 12 hours..........I don't run any dominant blue. If one wants extra bling they can slightly up the blue levels but not so much to mess up the color of the fish.

Or you can add some bars for extra bling..........this is just for looks and coverage.

My T5 setups are traditionally 8 hours but that's full on/off and no ramping. They are at 100%
You can add a few supplemental bars for bling.

Focus on duration.........you only need 300-350 par in most cases.
Coverage is also important......you want to corals to bathe in light from all angles.
Acros are 3d..........whatever isn't getting good coverage and duration will fade in color

You will also get much richer coloration in purple, red and pink acros.

Found it don’t know how I glossed over it thanks for your suggestion.

 

[Big E]

Idk if I missed it so which do yo I think is more beneficial? Higher par short period (full spectrum) or moderate par longer period

Have at least 6-8 hours of full spectrum at your peak level .............300-350 at mid level of your tank during that 6-8 hours is fine. So if your tank depth is 24" you want 300-350 at 12" from the bottom.
A lot can do well down to 250

This will also depend on your rock work and where you place your acros. If you have acros down low than that can change. I target mid level because I want that lower area for LPS, softies, ect.

Running higher par is just wasting electricity, wear on led units, extra heat, ect.............there isn't going to be any real benefit.

You will find out certain species like more light or flow. This comes over time by visual evaluation.
For example, an Aussie Ice Fire is fine at 200 but a milli will want more. Watch your corals, they'll tell you what they like.

 

[805reeftank]

Have at least 6-8 hours of full spectrum at your peak level .............300-350 at mid level of your tank during that 6-8 hours is fine. So if your tank depth is 24" you want 300-350 at 12" from the bottom.
A lot can do well down to 250

This will also depend on your rock work and where you place your acros. If you have acros down low than that can change. I target mid level because I want that lower area for LPS, softies, ect.

Running higher par is just wasting electricity, wear on led units, extra heat, ect.............there isn't going to be any real benefit.

You will find out certain species like more light or flow. This comes over time by visual evaluation.
For example, an Aussie Ice Fire is fine at 200 but a milli will want more. Watch your corals, they'll tell you what they like.

My tank is only 16” tall that’s why I’m getting such high par. My sps are only on the main rock structure directly under light. Top of that structure is only 8in from the water line the front torch and hammer islands are not under the light they get the spill light. Torch’s and hammers don’t seem to mind the high par they get about 200-300. I’ll take your advice into consideration.

 

[X-37B]

My tank is only 16” tall that’s why I’m getting such high par. My sps are only on the main rock structure directly under light. Top of that structure is only 8in from the water line the front torch and hammer islands are not under the light they get the spill light. Torch’s and hammers don’t seem to mind the high par they get about 200-300. I’ll take your advice into consideration.

My old 80 was 16". Only 13.5" from bottom to surface. That's why xr15's worked so well.
I like how you have kept the back open.
Great looking system!

 

[805reeftank]

My old 80 was 16". Only 13.5" from bottom to surface. That's why xr15's worked so well.
I like how you have kept the back open.
Great looking system!

Thanks! Yea I love shallow tanks. Top viewing is my favorite. And I like open aquascape. This is peak spectrum for me currently. I’ll be bumping up the whites little by little.

 

[billyo2811]

Just turn all the colours up to the same amount then just adjust total intensity. There is no good reason to not want to run as much variety as you can. Give the coral everything and it will reward you.

 

[Big E]

My tank is only 16” tall that’s why I’m getting such high par. My sps are only on the main rock structure directly under light. Top of that structure is only 8in from the water line the front torch and hammer islands are not under the light they get the spill light. Torch’s and hammers don’t seem to mind the high par they get about 200-300. I’ll take your advice into consideration.

Yes, hammers and torches can handle more light but they don't need it. My hammers and torches are getting 100 or less and they are flourishing.

I had said earlier that spectrum, duration of intensity, and overall coverage are more important than a specific par number. My frag tank is 12" and I previously had a 16" rimless 80g. When the acros got under 250 many will brown out or lose color intensity. 300-350 is the sweet spot...........this doesn't mean acros can't handle more.

 

[805reeftank]

Yes, hammers and torches can handle more light but they don't need it. My hammers and torches are getting 100 or less and they are flourishing.

I had said earlier that spectrum, duration of intensity, and overall coverage are more important than a specific par number. My frag tank is 12" and I previously had a 16" rimless 80g. When the acros got under 250 many will brown out or lose color intensity. 300-350 is the sweet spot...........this doesn't mean acros can't handle more.

I’m not targeting the torches and hammers to get more par that’s just a byproduct of the light intensity/spread. But it makes sense what your saying on the other hand I’ve always been told or read that you can substitute duration for intensity well see what happens.

 

[Faurek]

Probably less par for more duration since it's more gentle for acclimating, and if you think t5 it's soft gentle diffused light a lot of hours.
But after 12 hours seems an exaggeration, so 12 hours blue with probably 8 hours of white added, if not enough go 10 hours of whites, don't think you would need more then 500 par on your most light loving corals for 10 hours. If that's not enough feeding or traces is the problem. I think Dana studied that and most acros where good around 300-400.

 

[805reeftank]

Probably less par for more duration since it's more gentle for acclimating, and if you think t5 it's soft gentle diffused light a lot of hours.
But after 12 hours seems an exaggeration, so 12 hours blue with probably 8 hours of white added, if not enough go 10 hours of whites, don't think you would need more then 500 par on your most light loving corals for 10 hours. If that's not enough feeding or traces is the problem. I think Dana studied that and most acros were good around 300-400.

going to add more white till I get to 60-70% (currently at 45%) then add time to peak. My current peak is 5hrs I’ll bump that up to 6/7 Should take about a month or two. I’ll update when I’m there. Have some blue/uv hybrid bars coming too.

 

[805reeftank]

if anyone is interested in following along

Intensity vs duration experiment

Intensity vs duration I posted a question that peaked my curiosity so now I’m going to try an experiment. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/par-and-photo-period-vs-color.1094325/ Alright here’s the experiment I’m going to take a picture (iPhone 13 orange filter) every week Wednesday mornings...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Big E]

I’m not targeting the torches and hammers to get more par that’s just a byproduct of the light intensity/spread. But it makes sense what your saying on the other hand I’ve always been told or read that you can substitute duration for intensity well see what happens.

This is a cliff note article of Dana's Series of articles--

Aquarium Corals: Making Corals Colorful: New Information on Acropora species

We will look at colors of some of the most popular reef aquarium corals - Acropora species (Family Acroporidae). There is a considerable amount of relatively new information presented in this article.

reefs.com

I highly recommend reefers with dominant acropora systems read the actual 6 part series.

 

[VintageReefer]

Interesting the guy I’m chasing did also have or3 bars the blue/violet with his photon. I remember someone can’t remember who saying the photons can benefit from more UV . Maybe I’ll look into those or the quanta bars for supplement.

The matching RB lumenbars are 50% off right now and they have a high octane UV bar

LumenBar V2 48"

Clearance sale- no warranty. The LumenBar V2 includes a fully programmable dimmer and timer. Every LumenBar V2 is IP65 water-resistant, and has an ultra-thin 1" width and height. The LEDs are all 3watt Epistar chips run at a lower wattage for optimal efficiency. These are the perfect add-on for...

reefbreeders.com

 

[805reeftank]

The matching RB lumenbars are 50% off right now and they have a high octane UV bar

LumenBar V2 48"

Clearance sale- no warranty. The LumenBar V2 includes a fully programmable dimmer and timer. Every LumenBar V2 is IP65 water-resistant, and has an ultra-thin 1" width and height. The LEDs are all 3watt Epistar chips run at a lower wattage for optimal efficiency. These are the perfect add-on for...

reefbreeders.com

I got the hybrid they didn’t have it in 24in

 

[VintageReefer]

I got the hybrid they didn’t have it in 24in

I have the 24” hybrid on my photon 48

Pics hybrid only, orange lens