Parameter testing/brand clarification

[JWHITESP88]

After searching the forums for some time now and reading many threads on the topic of water testing, I am still left with questions that have no definitive answer. I am about to start cycling a IM 25 lagoon, though this isn't my first tank, I have been away for 4 or 5 years now and I am trying to keep from making the same mistakes that I have made historically. Ultimately those mistakes led to frustration that caused me to step away for a while. Some of those mistakes included not properly test water parameters and documenting, as well as being very impatient. Here are some of the questions that I have for you guys.

I will be cycling the tank with Dr. Tims
Should I buy a API test kit for the basic 4 (PH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and ammonia) or is there a better way to do this? I know that people argue that you only need to know ammonia and Ph. is this true?

What are the critical parameters to test for when starting a new tank that will house easy to care for corals such as zoas, mushrooms, leathers, euphyllia.

What brand test kits should I buy, I am looking for something that is fairly easy to use and understand because I am no chemist but I do want to improve in this part of reef keeping.

I already purchased a Milwaukee refractometer for salinity.

I just need someone to explain the basics of what I need to be testing for so that I can start off on the right foot.

 

[Uncle99]

API are not very accurate tests.
Your using Dr.Tim’s, so assuming you have rock and sand, I think testing ammonia and nitrite are a waste of money.
Give it a week to brew and add your first friend or two.

PH has little value right now, I might be more concerned with PH when adding Stoney corals and even then, I maximize it through the various means, the number to me has little value.

The nitrate is a different story, here, I want to keep track of my nutrient level and keep in solid in the ranges, same with phosphate.

The best tests I’ve ever used with the Hanna HIGH range checker (not the low range, this one was a flop) and the Hanna UL Phosphorus checker, again, IMM, fast easy and quite accurate.

Its worth the investment as managing nutrients has a direct impact on a new tanks development in terms of fostering more good guys than bad.

 

[JWHITESP88]

API are not very accurate tests.
Your using Dr.Tim’s, so assuming you have rock and sand, I think testing ammonia and nitrite are a waste of money.
Give it a week to brew and add your first friend or two.

PH has little value right now, I might be more concerned with PH when adding Stoney corals and even then, I maximize it through the various means, the number to me has little value.

The nitrate is a different story, here, I want to keep track of my nutrient level and keep in solid in the ranges, same with phosphate.

The best tests I’ve ever used with the Hanna HIGH range checker (not the low range, this one was a flop) and the Hanna UL Phosphorus checker, again, IMM, fast easy and quite accurate.

Its worth the investment as managing nutrients has a direct impact on a new tanks development in terms of fostering more good guys than bad.

Thanks for the reply, this is exactly what I am looking for. I am cycling using using Marco rock and CaribSea special Grade.

I have a nitrate hannah checker high range, hannah Ul phosphorus in the cart.

Are there any others that I need to be testing for? Calcium, Alk?

 

[Uncle99]

Nitrate, Phosphate,Temp and salinity for now.
When you get to stony corals, add Alk, MG and CA to the list.

I manage Nitrate in the 5-10ppm range and phosphate in the 0.05-.1ppm range as an example for the first year, afterwards, higher levels can be kept without pest algae’s.

Keep lights either off or low, they are a chief contributor to pest algae’s.

Do not let either or both nitrate and phosphate bottom out, or the pest algae’s will outcompete the good guys.

 

[Rmckoy]

To be honest .

this is my personal opinion .
if you’re cycling with dr Tim’s . The only real parameters you need to test are salinity ( Sg ) and temp .

but after salifert makes decent nitrate kits .

you will eventually need to add alkalinity , calcium , magnesium to your testing routine but not until you start adding corals ( which should be not until the tank has matured and stabled a little .
Could be one of my faults .
I don’t ever test ph
I know it rises and falls throughout the day to night depending on photosynthesis , oxygenation etc

 

[JWHITESP88]

Nitrate, Phosphate,Temp and salinity for now.
When you get to stony corals, add Alk, MG and CA to the list.

I manage Nitrate in the 5-10ppm range and phosphate in the 0.05-.1ppm range as an example for the first year, afterwards, higher levels can be kept without pest algae’s.

Keep lights either off or low, they are a chief contributor to pest algae’s.

Do not let either or both nitrate and phosphate bottom out, or the pest algae’s will outcompete the good guys.

Thanks, I ordered Ca, Phos, Mg, Alk and Nitrate. I actually just went ahead and bought this bundle in hopes that I would be covered for a while.

When do you think turning the lights on would be a good idea. I waited a month on my last tank and still battled algae, but insufficient testing probably contributed to that.

To be honest .

this is my personal opinion .
if you’re cycling with dr Tim’s . The only real parameters you need to test are salinity ( Sg ) and temp .

but after salifert makes decent nitrate kits .

you will eventually need to add alkalinity , calcium , magnesium to your testing routine but not until you start adding corals ( which should be not until the tank has matured and stabled a little .
Could be one of my faults .
I don’t ever test ph
I know it rises and falls throughout the day to night depending on photosynthesis , oxygenation etc

Thanks for the reply. I think I am gonna take part of the route that you take but I am gonna test Nitrate.

 

[Rmckoy]

Thanks, I ordered Ca, Phos, Mg, Alk and Nitrate. I actually just went ahead and bought this bundle in hopes that I would be covered for a while.

When do you think turning the lights on would be a good idea. I waited a month on my last tank and still battled algae, but insufficient testing probably contributed to that.


Thanks for the reply. I think I am gonna take part of the route that you take but I am gonna test Nitrate.

I test nitrate , alk and phosphate on a regular basis .

 

[r4rlee]

After searching the forums for some time now and reading many threads on the topic of water testing, I am still left with questions that have no definitive answer. I am about to start cycling a IM 25 lagoon, though this isn't my first tank, I have been away for 4 or 5 years now and I am trying to keep from making the same mistakes that I have made historically. Ultimately those mistakes led to frustration that caused me to step away for a while. Some of those mistakes included not properly test water parameters and documenting, as well as being very impatient. Here are some of the questions that I have for you guys.

I will be cycling the tank with Dr. Tims
Should I buy a API test kit for the basic 4 (PH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and ammonia) or is there a better way to do this? I know that people argue that you only need to know ammonia and Ph. is this true?

What are the critical parameters to test for when starting a new tank that will house easy to care for corals such as zoas, mushrooms, leathers, euphyllia.

What brand test kits should I buy, I am looking for something that is fairly easy to use and understand because I am no chemist but I do want to improve in this part of reef keeping.

I already purchased a Milwaukee refractometer for salinity.

I just need someone to explain the basics of what I need to be testing for so that I can start off on the right foot.

Api testing kit us the worst and don’t come with the ammonia test