Victoria M
5000 Club Member
So true! LOL! Got keep a sense of humor about life or it would really get us all down.
Very interesting about the transitioning phases.
Paul’s 240 gallon upgrade!
- Large Build
- Thread starter Dubs83
- Start date
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Very interesting about the transitioning phases.
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Dubs83
Valuable Member
It's been a rather hectic few weeks but it also seems like it's my go to excuse for the lack of updates.
To make a long story short, I almost quit the hobby. The tank has slowly been deteriorating and I had no clue what was causing it. Water test results would be all over the map and it was getting frustrating. All but one of my corals that did so well through QT had died and some slimy green algae started to take hold. I figured it was my schedule and I just wasn't giving it the attention it needed. With school around the corner and my two week on in SoFlo, one week off at home, I assumed the problem was only going to get worse.
We recently had some water issues in the house in the form of gravel clogging up our faucet fixtures. So,a butt load of money and some new equipment later, it turns out our original system was installed incorrectly and therefore wasn't doing what it was designed for. To give you some perspective of the gross **** up, the media wasn't even removed from the original packaging. The resin in the water softener was still in its bag!!! This caused a stand pipe to break releasing calcite and gravel into our pipes causing an assortment of issues.
Last week, we decided that maybe the issues with the tank had been directly related to the water. So, we decided to stick with it.
Here's what's been happening and what I need to do to catch up:
3 of 4 Neptune PMUPs have now seized. I can't even pull the impellers out to investigate.
- New V2s have been ordered
Saltwater holding tank growing some brown slime at the bottom:
- Take it off line and pressure wash it. Change salt from Red Sea blue buckets to ???
Generally not happy with sump lay out:
- I've been putting together the materials needed to modify the existing sump to what I posted a few days ago. As a reminder:
The sump, from left to right, will begin with a drain section for the full siphon and emergency drains. Measures 4 3/4" x 17" x 13 1/2" at 4.7 gallons. Front portion of the next section will house a 7" filter sock which will eventually be replaced with a Klir-7 roller filter, three back electric heaters at 300w each, reactor pump and GFO/Carbon reactors. Measures 35 3/4" x 9 1/2" x 9 1/4" or 13.6 gallons. The rear portion will serve as a narrow refugium with live rock, chaeto and calcium reactor media as substrate. Measures 35 3/4" x 8 1/2" x 14 3/4" or 17.1 gallons. Next section will house the current skimmer and measures 19 1/4" x 7 1/4" x 17" or 10.27 gallons. And finally, last chamber is the return chamber. Measures 11 1/2" x 7 1/4" x 17" at 6.13 gallons. Total running sump volume of 51.8 gallons. A net loss of 8 gallons to the current configuration.
Install 40b as future frag tank:
- There's currently a $ per gallon sale going on so I'll pick this up tomorrow and get it drilled for the reef synergy overflow I'm currently not using. I'm assuming the relatively low flow will keep it quiet but it's in the basement so noise is not a factor. Well, I'm sure it becomes one at some point. Anyhow, this is simply to add water volume as I await to actually grow things.
Dehumidifier Pump Failed:
- Currently removing water manually as the manufacturer won't ship for 2 weeks from the order date... ugh!
That's on the agenda to get this thing back to where it should be. It'll give me an opportunity to get a large water change done while the sump is down for the next few days without worrying about the heat getting out of control. Stay tuned!
To make a long story short, I almost quit the hobby. The tank has slowly been deteriorating and I had no clue what was causing it. Water test results would be all over the map and it was getting frustrating. All but one of my corals that did so well through QT had died and some slimy green algae started to take hold. I figured it was my schedule and I just wasn't giving it the attention it needed. With school around the corner and my two week on in SoFlo, one week off at home, I assumed the problem was only going to get worse.
We recently had some water issues in the house in the form of gravel clogging up our faucet fixtures. So,a butt load of money and some new equipment later, it turns out our original system was installed incorrectly and therefore wasn't doing what it was designed for. To give you some perspective of the gross **** up, the media wasn't even removed from the original packaging. The resin in the water softener was still in its bag!!! This caused a stand pipe to break releasing calcite and gravel into our pipes causing an assortment of issues.
Last week, we decided that maybe the issues with the tank had been directly related to the water. So, we decided to stick with it.
Here's what's been happening and what I need to do to catch up:
3 of 4 Neptune PMUPs have now seized. I can't even pull the impellers out to investigate.
- New V2s have been ordered
Saltwater holding tank growing some brown slime at the bottom:
- Take it off line and pressure wash it. Change salt from Red Sea blue buckets to ???
Generally not happy with sump lay out:
- I've been putting together the materials needed to modify the existing sump to what I posted a few days ago. As a reminder:
The sump, from left to right, will begin with a drain section for the full siphon and emergency drains. Measures 4 3/4" x 17" x 13 1/2" at 4.7 gallons. Front portion of the next section will house a 7" filter sock which will eventually be replaced with a Klir-7 roller filter, three back electric heaters at 300w each, reactor pump and GFO/Carbon reactors. Measures 35 3/4" x 9 1/2" x 9 1/4" or 13.6 gallons. The rear portion will serve as a narrow refugium with live rock, chaeto and calcium reactor media as substrate. Measures 35 3/4" x 8 1/2" x 14 3/4" or 17.1 gallons. Next section will house the current skimmer and measures 19 1/4" x 7 1/4" x 17" or 10.27 gallons. And finally, last chamber is the return chamber. Measures 11 1/2" x 7 1/4" x 17" at 6.13 gallons. Total running sump volume of 51.8 gallons. A net loss of 8 gallons to the current configuration.
Install 40b as future frag tank:
- There's currently a $ per gallon sale going on so I'll pick this up tomorrow and get it drilled for the reef synergy overflow I'm currently not using. I'm assuming the relatively low flow will keep it quiet but it's in the basement so noise is not a factor. Well, I'm sure it becomes one at some point. Anyhow, this is simply to add water volume as I await to actually grow things.
Dehumidifier Pump Failed:
- Currently removing water manually as the manufacturer won't ship for 2 weeks from the order date... ugh!
That's on the agenda to get this thing back to where it should be. It'll give me an opportunity to get a large water change done while the sump is down for the next few days without worrying about the heat getting out of control. Stay tuned!
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
First portion of the sump layout is almost done. I know it's hard to see but you get the point.
Quick Question regarding a standard 125 gallon tank
If I remove the plastic braces off the tank and silicone 1/4" glass strips as replacements, do I need to worry about possible failure with 50 gallons of water and another 30 gallons that drains from the DT?
Quick Question regarding a standard 125 gallon tank
If I remove the plastic braces off the tank and silicone 1/4" glass strips as replacements, do I need to worry about possible failure with 50 gallons of water and another 30 gallons that drains from the DT?
Good update my friend. Looks like you have a plan of action and you’ll get over the hump with the new softener system doing it’s job
For the sump trim- I’m not an expert, so big grain of instant ocean needed, but my feeling is you’d be ok at 80 gallons as long as you do the bracing as described.
You gonna use the shadow overflow? I think it’ll be fine since you’ll only be putting 100gph through it... lol... throw a power head in there to make up the flow. On my chop top 40, I’m going to use the cut off glass to make a coast to coast weirand just run some pvc standpipes through some bulkheads. Not running a box.
Glad you’re still with us, bud!
For the sump trim- I’m not an expert, so big grain of instant ocean needed, but my feeling is you’d be ok at 80 gallons as long as you do the bracing as described.
You gonna use the shadow overflow? I think it’ll be fine since you’ll only be putting 100gph through it... lol... throw a power head in there to make up the flow. On my chop top 40, I’m going to use the cut off glass to make a coast to coast weirand just run some pvc standpipes through some bulkheads. Not running a box.
Glad you’re still with us, bud!
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Thanks, mate!
Yea, I could never sell this thing to someone else.. So since it's here, I might as well use it and I agree- with 200-300 gph, it SHOULD stay quiet. lol
I did a C2C just like that for a friends 75 gallon and it works really well. I think you'll be happy with it man!
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Okay, got a lot done. New PMUPs arrived and installed. Made 75 gallons of RO/DI water and will make another 75 tomorrow to prepare to drain the sump. The baffles are ready for installation on the sump and I'll be sure to document this portion with photos. Saltwater holding tank is clean.
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Thanks for the support man!
Victoria M
5000 Club Member
I am so glad to see an update. And I am glad to see you guys are keeping the tank. More batman socks please
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Yes, unfortunately, one of my storage tanks is now a RO degas holding tank. Takes twice as long to process RODI water.
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Thanks Vic! Working on an update as we speak!
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
OP
OP
Dubs83
Valuable Member
Update: 08/28/19
Had a small list of things to do on the agenda. As previously discussed, PMUPs have been replaced so ATO and RO/DI making station is back in automatic mode. The Saltwater holding/mixing tank has been defunked with a pressure washer and I’ve switched salt mixes from Red Sea blue bucket to Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt. I’ve got a few bags of the Live Aquaria salt mix and I’ll mix the two of them until I run out and see from there.
There were a few more items that needed to be done so I’ll start with the next one on my list.
So, here’s the work in progress. Last Monday, I started working on the new lay out (see the quotes portion of this post) using 1/4” acrylic as glass was a little too expensive to justify. I used an acrylic bit and a router to cut the shapes I need and used weld on 16 to glue them together. Here’s what we came up with.
While it cured, I emptied the sump and dragged it out onto the driveway forgetting how heavy these 125g tanks were!
Busted out the old pressure washer, cleaned it and removed the old glass baffles along with the silicone. Also removed the plastic bracing to accommodate the placement of the skimmer.
Here it is with the new baffles mocked up and dry fitted. Masking tape for those pretty silicone lines and everything!
Once this was done I needed to modify my EMS overflow a bit. Sorry @TaylorPilot ! The water level was just slightly too high. Now, if you guys remember I had an issue where the tank builder screwed up the holes and paid for a custom box from Taylor, which I absolutely LOVE! Having said this, I have a unique box that was somewhat experimental on my end. The water level came up right to the bottom of the glass cross braces causing two issues. Algae to grow in the bottom of the braces blocking the light, surface movement was limited to the left and right sections of the tank.
I drained the tank and put my router to work after removing the inside box. Here’s what we did and it’s not flawless. Water level is still inside the black rim and I get water surface movement across the entire tank!
After the silicone set for 72 hours, I started to fill which also served as a massive 140 gallon water change.
And a video of the lay out
Drain section filled with main drain, flows into a 7” filter sock and into a reactor / back up heater section (still to go) which flows into a skimmer section and into the return section.
The secondary drain feeds the fuge on the back Side of the sump which spills directly into the skimmer section. The plan is to fill it with chaeto, which is currently in there, live rock and a sand bed of calcium reactor media. Anywhere, Here’s a video!
There’s more. Stay tuned!
Had a small list of things to do on the agenda. As previously discussed, PMUPs have been replaced so ATO and RO/DI making station is back in automatic mode. The Saltwater holding/mixing tank has been defunked with a pressure washer and I’ve switched salt mixes from Red Sea blue bucket to Tropic Marin Pro Reef salt. I’ve got a few bags of the Live Aquaria salt mix and I’ll mix the two of them until I run out and see from there.
There were a few more items that needed to be done so I’ll start with the next one on my list.
Generally not happy with sump lay out:
- I've been putting together the materials needed to modify the existing sump to what I posted a few days ago. As a reminder:
The sump, from left to right, will begin with a drain section for the full siphon and emergency drains. Measures 4 3/4" x 17" x 13 1/2" at 4.7 gallons. Front portion of the next section will house a 7" filter sock which will eventually be replaced with a Klir-7 roller filter, three back electric heaters at 300w each, reactor pump and GFO/Carbon reactors. Measures 35 3/4" x 9 1/2" x 9 1/4" or 13.6 gallons. The rear portion will serve as a narrow refugium with live rock, chaeto and calcium reactor media as substrate. Measures 35 3/4" x 8 1/2" x 14 3/4" or 17.1 gallons. Next section will house the current skimmer and measures 19 1/4" x 7 1/4" x 17" or 10.27 gallons. And finally, last chamber is the return chamber. Measures 11 1/2" x 7 1/4" x 17" at 6.13 gallons. Total running sump volume of 51.8 gallons. A net loss of 8 gallons to the current configuration.
So, here’s the work in progress. Last Monday, I started working on the new lay out (see the quotes portion of this post) using 1/4” acrylic as glass was a little too expensive to justify. I used an acrylic bit and a router to cut the shapes I need and used weld on 16 to glue them together. Here’s what we came up with.
While it cured, I emptied the sump and dragged it out onto the driveway forgetting how heavy these 125g tanks were!
Busted out the old pressure washer, cleaned it and removed the old glass baffles along with the silicone. Also removed the plastic bracing to accommodate the placement of the skimmer.
Here it is with the new baffles mocked up and dry fitted. Masking tape for those pretty silicone lines and everything!
Once this was done I needed to modify my EMS overflow a bit. Sorry @TaylorPilot ! The water level was just slightly too high. Now, if you guys remember I had an issue where the tank builder screwed up the holes and paid for a custom box from Taylor, which I absolutely LOVE! Having said this, I have a unique box that was somewhat experimental on my end. The water level came up right to the bottom of the glass cross braces causing two issues. Algae to grow in the bottom of the braces blocking the light, surface movement was limited to the left and right sections of the tank.
I drained the tank and put my router to work after removing the inside box. Here’s what we did and it’s not flawless. Water level is still inside the black rim and I get water surface movement across the entire tank!
After the silicone set for 72 hours, I started to fill which also served as a massive 140 gallon water change.
And a video of the lay out
Drain section filled with main drain, flows into a 7” filter sock and into a reactor / back up heater section (still to go) which flows into a skimmer section and into the return section.
The secondary drain feeds the fuge on the back Side of the sump which spills directly into the skimmer section. The plan is to fill it with chaeto, which is currently in there, live rock and a sand bed of calcium reactor media. Anywhere, Here’s a video!
There’s more. Stay tuned!
Awesome update Paul!!
You took a router to your overflow weir!!!?!?!!!?! WHAAAAAAATT!!
You have a hand held or a table router? I have a palm router and have been considering a table for my electrical panel acrylic work. freehanding wood has been messy even with guides and I’d hate to ruin a piece of acrylic with a misstep. I really wanted my panel to have some nice radius edge corners, but decent jig/guides cost 4-5x the acrylic cost. So I might just round them off with a dremel
“A sand bed of calcium reactor media.” Say wut?
You took a router to your overflow weir!!!?!?!!!?! WHAAAAAAATT!!
You have a hand held or a table router? I have a palm router and have been considering a table for my electrical panel acrylic work. freehanding wood has been messy even with guides and I’d hate to ruin a piece of acrylic with a misstep. I really wanted my panel to have some nice radius edge corners, but decent jig/guides cost 4-5x the acrylic cost. So I might just round them off with a dremel
“A sand bed of calcium reactor media.” Say wut?
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