Planning to add a fuge...

BanZI29

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Hi all. So I wanted to get some opinions and guidance please on what plan to do with my innovative marine fusion 25G AIO and setting up a fuge in it. (I know my art skills suck!)
This is what I would like to do. If anyone has a better configuration, Please share.
I want to try this to help keep chemistry levels even as possible. I do have a small brittle SG and a small condey neno and they are fed shrimp 2 times a week. I have snails and crabs as a cleanup crew. no fish, just coral, 4 months old and fully cycled.
Thanks all!!

20201026_162135_HDR.jpg Tank filter setup.png
 

Ippyroy

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You only need GFO if your PO4 is high. The chaeto will also flow over and into your return pump creating a mess.
That is a lot of chemipure. Just one small bag of carbon should be fine. Swap it out once a month. I wouldn't use the bio balls. They become nitrate factories. You will get enough biological filtration from the rocks and sand.
 
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BanZI29

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You only need GFO if your PO4 is high. The chaeto will also flow over and into your return pump creating a mess.
That is a lot of chemipure. Just one small bag of carbon should be fine. Swap it out once a month. I wouldn't use the bio balls. They become nitrate factories. You will get enough biological filtration from the rocks and sand.
The chaeto will be boxed in a rack so it shouldn't go into the box.
and I do wanna get rid of the Bioballs but what to put in its place if neccesary?
 
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BanZI29

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My first question is what issues are you having? Nutrient issues? Lack of space for media? I agree with @Ippyroy on the chaeto location and bio balls. You would need an overflow comb into the return.
yea my beautiful drawing doesnt show the screen I have on top of the chaeto. it will be in a rack with a screen.
my issues are the nitrites and nitrates, Ph and Kh fluctuate alot (never the same number twice in a row.) I want to get control of my levels and hoping a fuge will help. the pic is what I test every other day. the last dot on the right is for yesterday. and the GH is actually dKH

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Ippyroy

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What is your PO4? Alk is not affected by carbon or fuge. Nitrite and Ammonia don't need to be tested after cycling the tank. I am guessing you are using an API test kit. They are notorious for false readings on ammonia. NO3 and PO4 are the only things to test for in the first few months if you are doing regular water changes. The PO4 will fluctuate a lot in the beginning. It is binding with the rocks and sand. It comes loose when you remove some during a water change and on and on it goes. Take your time and don't chase numbers. Your tank will balance out with time.
Your Alk seems really high. I am guessing a bad test kit or user error. You aren't dosing anything are you?
 
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BanZI29

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What is your PO4? Alk is not affected by carbon or fuge. Nitrite and Ammonia don't need to be tested after cycling the tank. I am guessing you are using an API test kit. They are notorious for false readings on ammonia. NO3 and PO4 are the only things to test for in the first few months if you are doing regular water changes. The PO4 will fluctuate a lot in the beginning. It is binding with the rocks and sand. It comes loose when you remove some during a water change and on and on it goes. Take your time and don't chase numbers. Your tank will balance out with time.
Your Alk seems really high. I am guessing a bad test kit or user error. You aren't dosing anything are you?
on guidance from the the aquarium store guy, I dose nite-out II daily, calcium only when it's below 180ppm (no more then 5ml at a time), Balance when Ph is 8.0 or less, and Special blend weekly ( see pix below)

I get PO4 tested weekly at my local aquarium store and it has shown to be within "normal" and my Alk was ok last week but then got into the 14-15 range within the last couple of days.
Also we test every other day mainly for my daughters science class. She is using this for her science project for the year so she needs the numbers.

1265237-center-1.jpg Aquavitro-Balance.png NITEH011_1400x.jpg
 

Ippyroy

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It is my understanding to never dose PH buffers. This is raising your Alk I think.
 
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BanZI29

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It is my understanding to never dose PH buffers. This is raising your Alk I think.
I heard the same thing recently so Im gonna see what happens when I don't use balance this weekend. what do you think about the rest of the stuff I use?
 

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How long has the tank been up? You have snails and crabs. They would die if you had ammonia. Ammonia is naturally converted into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate by bacteria that is everywhere. You don't need to worry about it at all once the cycle is done. Ammonia is very hard to test with hobby grade test kits. Ryan at BRS did some videos on ammonia. i haven't watched them yet. Your calcium level seems weird. Mine is at 421. You don't don't need to dose any calcium if you do regular water changes. If your tank consumes any it will easily be replaced by the water change. Same with Alk.

I only dose Soda Ash, Calcium Chloride, and Tropic Marin Part C. This is because my consumes quiet a bit. My calcium is never below 410 and my Alk is always at 8.9 - 9.0. I have SPS and LPS corals. Coraline Algae is starting to grow rapidly. These are the only things that consume these things. What salt mix do you use?

Adding a small fuge will not affect your tank's nutrient levels. They will add a nice place for pods to live and multiply which will help with detritus and add free snacks for your fish.

Over testing does not exist. You can test daily if you want. Keep it up. Your levels all seem weird to me though. What test kits are you using? I really like the Nyos for Nitrates. It is very simple and quick to do. I use Hanna for PO4 and Alk. They cost a bit upfront but refill kits are cheap. 9 bucks for both. For calcium I haven't found kit I really like besides the Trident and well...
 
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How long has the tank been up? You have snails and crabs. They would die if you had ammonia. Ammonia is naturally converted into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate by bacteria that is everywhere. You don't need to worry about it at all once the cycle is done. Ammonia is very hard to test with hobby grade test kits. Ryan at BRS did some videos on ammonia. i haven't watched them yet. Your calcium level seems weird. Mine is at 421. You don't don't need to dose any calcium if you do regular water changes. If your tank consumes any it will easily be replaced by the water change. Same with Alk.

I only dose Soda Ash, Calcium Chloride, and Tropic Marin Part C. This is because my consumes quiet a bit. My calcium is never below 410 and my Alk is always at 8.9 - 9.0. I have SPS and LPS corals. Coraline Algae is starting to grow rapidly. These are the only things that consume these things. What salt mix do you use?

Adding a small fuge will not affect your tank's nutrient levels. They will add a nice place for pods to live and multiply which will help with detritus and add free snacks for your fish.

Over testing does not exist. You can test daily if you want. Keep it up. Your levels all seem weird to me though. What test kits are you using? I really like the Nyos for Nitrates. It is very simple and quick to do. I use Hanna for PO4 and Alk. They cost a bit upfront but refill kits are cheap. 9 bucks for both. For calcium I haven't found kit I really like besides the Trident and well...

I use all API test as that was recommended by the local aquarium store guy (aquatic and exotic in Stuart FL)

it's been up 4 months now and I do have snails and crabs. I have had a bit of a die off recently (2 crabs and 4 snails in the last 2 weeks) but they were some of the first ones I got. I got more 2 weeks ago and they are doing good so far.

My phosphates have always been in the low range, reads 0 every time.

I keep calcium at 400 - 420 consistently, only dosing when it shows 380 or less.

I did a 10% water change this past sat, and will do another next sat. ( didn't wanna shock the corals with a huge water change)
as of sunday nite, ammonia held steady at .25, nitrite peaked again at 1ppm and nitrate peaked at 80ppm
dKh is at 10.
all water comes from the aq. store.

also, no fish, just coral, 1 brittle SF and a condey anen.
 

Ippyroy

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The API kit will always read.25. I personally wouldn't even bother testing Ammonia nor Nitrites. They are very complicated to test for with hobby grade kits.
API is cheap and is known for false ammonia readings. For Phosphates I love my Hanna checker.
Don't let the price scare you, the reagents are only 9 bucks. It is super easy to do and read. I also use their Alk checker.
Once again, the reagents are only 9 bucks and super easy to use.
Keep up with the water changes, big ones won't affect your corrals. If the salinity and PH are the same you could do a 100% water change. Small ones weekly are much better for the snails and crabs though.
The nitrates are high. A fuge will help lower them, be sure to get a good light for it. Any grow light with a strong red spectrum should work. I use a cheap one off of Amazon. The only problem with cheap ones is they will die sooner than an expensive one. Salt water is very cruel to electronics. The water changes will also lower the nitrates.
I don't know if a HOB fuge will fit on the tank. If it does I'd go with one of those. The bigger the fuge the better.
Black Friday is coming. If at all possible I would hang on until the week of Thanksgiving to purchase anything. Most everything will go on sale at some point during that week. A lot of these things never go on sale other than that week. Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions. I am always happy to help.
 
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