Plans for first tank, 40 gal B with DIY 20 gal sump

bjmason56

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I’m currently in the design and research phase for my first reef tank. I’m planning a 40 Gallon Breeder tank with a DIY 20 Gallon sump. I’m going to buy the tanks from the dollar per gallon sale at Petco.

I’m very open to suggestions and am willing to rework the design (I’ve already reworked it many times). Feedback is greatly appreciated. I will hopefully have the funds to start my tank by September.

So far my education on reefing comes mostly from BRS YouTube channel. I’ve watched the 5 Minute Saltwater Aquarium playlist multiple times and I’ve watched the whole BRS160 playlist.

here is my tank/sump design so far:
DB72F686-61CD-42C9-94A1-8FA9D27ADF38.jpeg
 

dankaqua

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Just so happens I recently completed a 3D model of a 40b w/ 20g long...



(it takes a minute or so to load the 3D model...)

You can spin the model around and zoom with your mouse (doesn't work as well on a phone)...

Here's a shot of the same model with the plywood removed:

1 40g Breeder with 20g sump.png


The stand design is a super robust "3 2x4s per corner" design. Very sturdy, very safe.

To fit the 20g long and be able to slide it out (and allow for some wiggle room), the width of the stand is a bit wide. So the 40g on top has an extra 2 inches (front or back) to play with.

I modeled a "bean animal" overflow too:



It improves on the two-tube "Herbie" overflow design. Lots of info online about it (but few diagrams!).

Happy to provide measurements etc if you are interested.
 

Jasper05

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Great research/planning so far! Definitely following. Love your renderings. I'm in the same boat as you. I bought the same tanks as you from Petco earlier in March and still planning everything.

I feel you about the stand width. Ive seen a couple of wider stands with the same design so I'm making mine 46" with the intent of 7 inches or so being sectioned off with a panel and making an electronics cabinet. The other side will be for an ATO. Im thinking 3/4" ply on top.

I like the bean animal as well. Have you checked out exotic marine? I think that's where I'm headed. They also have a great bean animal video on you tube. Im totally new so I may not be thinking of something, but for me Im going to put the emergency drain at the end, rather than the middle. I think the plumbing will be more orderly that way.

I can't wait to watch your sump build. Thats been the hardest for me. I go back and forth on the refugium. I really want one, but then I think of space.

EDIT: I didnt realize the first 2 posts were from different people
 
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bjmason56

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Just so happens I recently completed a 3D model of a 40b w/ 20g long...



(it takes a minute or so to load the 3D model...)

You can spin the model around and zoom with your mouse (doesn't work as well on a phone)...

Here's a shot of the same model with the plywood removed:

1 40g Breeder with 20g sump.png


The stand design is a super robust "3 2x4s per corner" design. Very sturdy, very safe.

To fit the 20g long and be able to slide it out (and allow for some wiggle room), the width of the stand is a bit wide. So the 40g on top has an extra 2 inches (front or back) to play with.

I modeled a "bean animal" overflow too:



It improves on the two-tube "Herbie" overflow design. Lots of info online about it (but few diagrams!).

Happy to provide measurements etc if you are interested.
What kind of overflow box do you recommend? I’m on the fence between building my own stand and buying the metal one from Petco and adding doors and sides to it later on.
 

RyansReef

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I did a 20 long diy sump last year very similar to you sketch. My return chamber is slightly bigger taking some room out of refuge but you might want to consider it too. One reason would be ATO going into return chamber will run more to keep up with evap in smaller area but might not be an issue since it is ATO right? But another reason would be for reactors should you want them. I have room for two 2 little fishes reactors by going to 8” from your 5.

the thing I wish I had done was to add second wall between refuge and return section for some filter floss. I get some stuff coming into retrun chamber from refuge that I think could have been kept cleaner with some floss and could also add bag of carbon here too. Takes up more room too though. But how big does the refuge really need to be.

it was fun building mine and has worked fairly well. good luck with yours. Look forward to seeing how it goes.
 
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bjmason56

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I did a 20 long diy sump last year very similar to you sketch. My return chamber is slightly bigger taking some room out of refuge but you might want to consider it too. One reason would be ATO going into return chamber will run more to keep up with evap in smaller area but might not be an issue since it is ATO right? But another reason would be for reactors should you want them. I have room for two 2 little fishes reactors by going to 8” from your 5.

the thing I wish I had done was to add second wall between refuge and return section for some filter floss. I get some stuff coming into retrun chamber from refuge that I think could have been kept cleaner with some floss and could also add bag of carbon here too. Takes up more room too though. But how big does the refuge really need to be.

it was fun building mine and has worked fairly well. good luck with yours. Look forward to seeing how it goes.
Good point, I’m flexible on my sump design. Initially I’m not going to have an ATO but plan on adding one later on when I get sufficient funds. I was also thinking of adding a second wall between the refug and return chamber.
 

dankaqua

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What kind of overflow box do you recommend?
I recommend the "bean animal" overflow. I put a 3D model in the post above, but here's a couple static shots:

bean animal overflow 1.png

bean animal overflow 2.png


[Click the up arrow above to see the 3D model]

Why is the "bean animal" better than the 2 pipe "Herbie" design? Compare these two graphics from Marine Depot (https://blog.marinedepot.com/education-center/charts-diagrams/durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow)

Herbie-1_blog)marinedepot.jpg


bean-animal-2_marinedepot.jpg


The main difference is that the Herbie overfow can suck air into the drain pipe which creates noise. The bubbles/water hitting the sump also creates noise.

The "bean animal" uses the "primary" drain as a "full suction" line. Without air inside the pipe, the full suction line is virtually silent.

The use of the p-trap or double 90 on the top of the primary drain line reduces the chance of any air being sucked into the full suction pipe.

With the full suction line running silent, the water returning to the sump is likewise silent because there are no bubbles coming out. Further, the suction moves a lot of water quickly.

The secondary pipe (slightly taller than the primary) only runs at a trickle. This is to balance the total water removed from the overflow.

A video of how this works speaks volumes:



I’m on the fence between building my own stand and buying the metal one from Petco and adding doors and sides to it later on.

I prefer wood stands to to metal stands. There will always be more equipment that you want to add and remove from your reef tank, so I prefer the flexibility and easy of modification of wood.
 

o-townFLA

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I finished my 40B w/ 20L sump build over a month ago. Have a look for some ideas...


8FB743E8-8DE2-458C-85E0-ADF5AADEEF33.jpeg

342DA99C-00BD-4127-A868-3C4D6EA45EE4.jpeg

821DD445-43B3-4338-AD89-D4E7D8405A39.jpeg

45A91B9C-8AB0-4584-8D39-1A572B77D57A.jpeg
 
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count krunk

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I also finished the bones of a 40 breeder with 29g sump a few days ago.

I run a bean animal and it is completely quiet. I have zero worry about overflow.
 

dankaqua

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Here’s some footage taken during the leak test...
Definitely sounds quiet! Is there water flowing down the secondary pipe in your design? (it's a bit hard to tell from the video but it looks like your secondary pipe is only for "emergency" overflow and all the water flowing to the sump is going through the "full suction" primary drain line).

The "bean animal" idea for the "secondary" (aka "trickle") line is to allow for flow increase/decrease over time due to organic buildup in the pipe (etc). And the third pipe is the "emergency overflow".

Did you run that test with fresh water?
 

o-townFLA

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Definitely sounds quiet! Is there water flowing down the secondary pipe in your design? (it's a bit hard to tell from the video but it looks like your secondary pipe is only for "emergency" overflow and all the water flowing to the sump is going through the "full suction" primary drain line).

The "bean animal" idea for the "secondary" (aka "trickle") line is to allow for flow increase/decrease over time due to organic buildup in the pipe (etc). And the third pipe is the "emergency overflow".

Did you run that test with fresh water?

You are correct. The second drain is for “emergency overflow” only. The emergency overflow does make a gurgle when water is flowing into it. Making it a great audible alarm.

From my research, it was mentioned that it was best to leave the emergency overflow dry at all times. Bean or Herbie you can’t go wrong. They both use some type of valve to control flow. My setup shows a ball valve being used, I’ve gone to a Spears gate valve as of recent. It is true that the ball valve takes a lil to setup vs the gate valve. But they overall would be sufficient

The footage was done with tap water during the leak test. Which I found none
 

ImGoingCoastal

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Picture of my 40B with 20L sump. Not the greatest, not the worst.

Please forgive me for the picture. It's late, my basement is a mess and I just didn't feel like cleaning it up for the picture. Oh and the fuge light is on (obviously). Feel free to PM me if you have any questions about anything I've done.

20200405_005827.jpg
 

Sebastiancrab

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Just so happens I recently completed a 3D model of a 40b w/ 20g long...



(it takes a minute or so to load the 3D model...)

You can spin the model around and zoom with your mouse (doesn't work as well on a phone)...

Here's a shot of the same model with the plywood removed:

1 40g Breeder with 20g sump.png


The stand design is a super robust "3 2x4s per corner" design. Very sturdy, very safe.

To fit the 20g long and be able to slide it out (and allow for some wiggle room), the width of the stand is a bit wide. So the 40g on top has an extra 2 inches (front or back) to play with.

I modeled a "bean animal" overflow too:



It improves on the two-tube "Herbie" overflow design. Lots of info online about it (but few diagrams!).

Happy to provide measurements etc if you are interested.
I am interested in the measurements. I am planning on this also.
 

Sebastiancrab

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I’m currently in the design and research phase for my first reef tank. I’m planning a 40 Gallon Breeder tank with a DIY 20 Gallon sump. I’m going to buy the tanks from the dollar per gallon sale at Petco.

I’m very open to suggestions and am willing to rework the design (I’ve already reworked it many times). Feedback is greatly appreciated. I will hopefully have the funds to start my tank by September.

So far my education on reefing comes mostly from BRS YouTube channel. I’ve watched the 5 Minute Saltwater Aquarium playlist multiple times and I’ve watched the whole BRS160 playlist.

here is my tank/sump design so far:
DB72F686-61CD-42C9-94A1-8FA9D27ADF38.jpeg
Hi BJ, I was planning on the Petco sale too but talked to Aqeon today and they told me that they will only be selling the tempered glass tanks unfortunately for like the next year. You might want to double check before you purchase.
 

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