Please, help me to figure out what went wrong in my SPS tank

[allabarton]

Thank you Reefnjunkie for the input.

It is a good time to get a doser. Dosing Kalkwasser via ATO and keep Alk stable sometimes a challenge. Evaporation rate changes back and forth: today my heater is on, tomorrow AC is running all day.

I do have a controller: Profilux 3. Going to get GHL doser.

Salinity was so low becaurse my Refractometer was off. I calibrated it in the beginning. Now I learned my lesson. I have to check it often. Actually I am going to buy one more for double check.

The errorless testing is a must in this hobby. Always a great idea to use at least 2 different tests to check main parameters. And for sure double check when something is off and you are trying to adjust it.

 

[allabarton]

I am so mad at myself for getting too comfortable and too confident and did not double check parameters.

Middle November (when all the problems started to happen) I got a new Tropic Marin Bio Actif Salt bucket (I've being using it from the beginning). Today I decided to check Alk of freshly made Saltwater: my corals looked even worse than before. I tested with Hanna and Red Sea a few times. It was 100ppm/5.6dKH. Here is a picture of Milli with white tips. It's related to Alk swings, is not it? I do about 16 g WC every week in 190 g system. So if my usual DT Alk 8-8.4 dKH and fresh Saltwater's Alk 5.6 dKH what it really be such an impact on corals?

Is it still possible to save this coral if all the parameters will be in check? Thank you.

 

[allabarton]

Can I raise Alk in a container for mixing saltwater my adding Baking Soda? Thank you.

 

[allabarton]

I think I am going to buy Aquavitro Salinity Mix tomorrow. My LFS has it.
Is it OK to do my usual 10% weekly change with a new salt mix. And just do WC 10%/weekly until all salt will be replaced? Thank you.

 

[allabarton]

I just came across some posts about Tropic Marin Bio Actif Salt. Alk can be as low as 4.5 dKH. Also reefers report Cyano outbreaks with using TM Bio Actif since it has Organic Carbon in the mix. That explains why I was having Cyano even with small feedings, oversized skimmer and HE GFO.

 

[Chameleon]

To me it looks like alk swing damage for the most part. I think it best to let the tank mature a little while you become more comfortable with keeping rock solid parameters. Also, I wouldn't usually mention this, but in your case it may help, you may want to consider using a different salt. I know the majority of the reefing community uses IO or RC which are less expensive salts that work great, but there are many other good ones too. Also it is my recommendation that unless you are experiencing high phosphates take your GFO offline. Most successful sps tanks I see use other husbandry habits to keep phosphates in acceptable ranges. One more thing, I know sps in general love flow, but in my opinion 2 mp60s on a 180 could be potentially overdoing it. Maybe try turning them down a bit if they aren't already. One thing I always suggest is the KISS mentality when it comes to reefing. Just be sure you are putting in good RODI water, have powerful skimming, good light, and rock stable alk and other params and I am sure you will have a flourishing tank in to time.

 

[Diesel]

To me it looks like alk swing damage for the most part. I think it best to let the tank mature a little while you become more comfortable with keeping rock solid parameters. Also, I wouldn't usually mention this, but in your case it may help, you may want to consider using a different salt. I know the majority of the reefing community uses IO or RC which are less expensive salts that work great, but there are many other good ones too. Also it is my recommendation that unless you are experiencing high phosphates take your GFO offline. Most successful sps tanks I see use other husbandry habits to keep phosphates in acceptable ranges. One more thing, I know sps in general love flow, but in my opinion 2 mp60s on a 180 could be potentially overdoing it. Maybe try turning them down a bit if they aren't already. One thing I always suggest is the KISS mentality when it comes to reefing. Just be sure you are putting in good RODI water, have powerful skimming, good light, and rock stable alk and other params and I am sure you will have a flourishing tank in to time.

+1 on that.

 

[allabarton]

To me it looks like alk swing damage for the most part. I think it best to let the tank mature a little while you become more comfortable with keeping rock solid parameters. Also, I wouldn't usually mention this, but in your case it may help, you may want to consider using a different salt. I know the majority of the reefing community uses IO or RC which are less expensive salts that work great, but there are many other good ones too. Also it is my recommendation that unless you are experiencing high phosphates take your GFO offline. Most successful sps tanks I see use other husbandry habits to keep phosphates in acceptable ranges. One more thing, I know sps in general love flow, but in my opinion 2 mp60s on a 180 could be potentially overdoing it. Maybe try turning them down a bit if they aren't already. One thing I always suggest is the KISS mentality when it comes to reefing. Just be sure you are putting in good RODI water, have powerful skimming, good light, and rock stable alk and other params and I am sure you will have a flourishing tank in to time.

Thank you, Chameleon.
I am changing gradually to Aquavitro Salinity with 10% weekly WC. I continue dosing Amino Acids and feeding my corals Oyster Feast.
I am afraid to take GFO offline since I have some GHA and have had Cyano outbreaks.
My MP60 have been running at about 30-35%.

With the new salt and Kalkwasser via ATO I should be OK on controlling Alk at least for now. GHL Doser Unit should be here soon so I can 2 part.

 

[allabarton]

This little guy has PE much better.

I just wonder if I have to cut the tips off? And if I leave them along what would happen? Also I wonder if the Milli has a chance to survive and thrive if the parameters and conditions are stable?

I was so pleased to find some corals getting better and I can see more PE and color.

I hope it was just a bad salt butch. And now I double or triple check all the main parameters. I use Hanna checkers or/and Red Sea test. Tomorrow I am going to get Salifert tests and more reagents for Hanna and Red Sea.

Sometimes I find that Hanna's reagents are off. Is it just me?

 

[robby2782]

You could leave the tips and let it re encrust, but it may grow abnormal if it branches out from other areas. I had that happen to me before with an alk crash when I stopped checking my reactor.

 

[allabarton]

You could leave the tips and let it re encrust, but it may grow abnormal if it branches out from other areas. I had that happen to me before with an alk crash when I stopped checking my reactor.

That's a good point. I'll cut it when he gets better. Thank you, Robby.

 

[allabarton]

Here is my tank when I just started having problems.

 

[bobssecrtsn]

from the stn from the tips of that millie that indicates that you had a alk swing. I'm not sure if millies can regrow on skeleton but i would frag it.

 

[Zack]

Your tank looks nice, I really like the aquascaping

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[Chameleon]

Your tank looks nice, I really like the aquascaping

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+1 I like the scape...good luck with getting things happy again...sounds like you are on the right track

 

[allabarton]

Thank you, Zack and Cameleon.

 

[allabarton]

Over one week passed. After my Alk stabilized. I've done two 10% changes with new salt Aquavitro Salinity.

Got to notice: I mixed 16 gallons with the new salt. Alk (in saltwater mixing tank) was around 8.3 dKH (measured a few times with Hanna and Red Sea. I used different reagents for Hanna and Red Sea. Yes. I am paranoid now. )
As usual I let it mixed with a powerhead and heater until the next WC. I do WC 10% ever week. Always.
Just before WC I checked Alk (in the mixing container) a few times with Hanna and Red Sea. To my surprise it was around 6 dKH. ???? Retested next day. Same result. I brought it up to 8.5 before WC. Not sure why Alk in the mixing tank would drop?

 

[allabarton]

I am staying home Mom. So I have plenty of time to observe my animals during the day and nights. I even purchased a fancy magnifying lense with a magnate alowing to see my corals very well.

The last week I've been keeping a close eye on my tank. Definitely I saw better PE. I've been feeding Oyster Feast 1-2 teaspoons every day fort 180 g DT. Plus dosing Amino Acids. Since I thought my corals were just starving. I noticed also the green and/or purple Acros became much darker and dipper green and/or purple color. And the one that were brown changed to dark deep brown or redish brown. Probably becaurse a lot off extra nutrients that were added to the tank.

My Phosphate reading was still 0.00 on Hanna. Even my Green Hair Algea (I have patches here and there on my rocks) was not happy.

Also I have a Bleeding Apple Scolymia and Green with Purple Tips Hammer did not look as good as they used to be. They are not fully expended.

My next step was to take GFO off line. So I did it this morning.

I tested the waters this afternoon:
Alk 147ppm/8.2dKH (Hanna & Red Sea)
Phosphate 0.04 after feeding
Mg 1400 (Red Sea measured with two different reagents).

Ca 578 & 526 ppm (Hanna)
Ca > 500 ppm (Red Sea)
Not sure why Ca went up from 480 to over 500 ppm. A few days ago I dosed AquaVitro Fuel a little bit less than recommended dose and did WC. Ca of Aquavitro salt is about 430-450.

 

[allabarton]

My Bonsai and a few other Acros still look pretty good, I think.

 

[Zack]

My Bonsai and a few other Acros still look pretty good, I think. <img src="https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=47897"/>

I agree!!

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