Plumbing 65g RR, Show me yours!

Grimreaperz

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Hey in the process of getting all the parts I need to plumb my 65g Tall RR (36Lx24H)
2drilled holes in the bottom pane. I plan on using for Bean Animal Drain style.

Looking for ideas and inspiration

Gates, balls, checks, unions all encouraged. Explanations behind why would be appreciated.

This will be my first time doing a Hard Plumb so I really want to spend the time doing it right.
 

Smo

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You need three holes for a BeanAnimal drain sys. Then you need to figure out what to do for the return(s), either over the top or thru the back.
50d67ec9189c5fa46452577aa3b68579.jpg
 
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Grimreaperz

Grimreaperz

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So if I only have 2 holes to make drains out of. What would you suggest?

2 Durso stand Pipes with staggered height?

What about under the display? Could you show me what yours looks like?

Do you keep drain pipes seperate or do you join them together?
 

James Mikell

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If only 2 holes in each you can do a herbie style drain but then still need to figure out your return piping.
 
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Grimreaperz

Grimreaperz

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Yeah I have been doing a lot more research Herbie is what I meant initially. Been a while since I have been down the plumbing road.... Ugh plumbing hurts my head lol.

Starting to figure it all out though gunna keep this thread open as a sounding board if that's okay?
 

Smo

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I agree with James, with only two holes a Herbie would be quieter and move more water than two Durso’s.
If you look at my previous picture above, you would use the emergency drain in the center and the full syphon standpipe on the right.
To answer your question...best to never join drain pipes. Keep them separate for greater reliability in case of a clog or flow imbalance.
Here is a shot of my below cabinet drain plumbing as I was assembling.
ea538831b7002434e8d703ac9dd879da.jpg

The full syphon and gate valve are on the left. The emergency drain dumps into the refugium area in my case. For a Herbie system since the emergency drain would be adjusted to have a small trickle of flow you would want to lead it to your filter socks. Note, the full syphon has to be led to a chamber or “cup” that keeps the end submerged in about 1” of water for the syphon to work.
 

Smo

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Here is a better shot of the full syphon dumping into the sump. It is always under water so as the syphon develops all the air is evacuated.
103e055489659cf0557fe6a9740a5b5d.jpg
 
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Grimreaperz

Grimreaperz

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This is the info I am looking for 100%
I will most likely be re baffling my sump and potentially building a bigger one.

The bit about having he overflow ends submerged is very useful thank you so much!!

Now as far as my return.

I'm going to just have it over the back with a plastic return jet.

But I want to leave room for expanding equipment. (reactors etc) should u just plumb a T into the return like and a ball valve after the T that way if I need to add in the future I'm not redoing the plumbing?
 

Smo

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There are pros and cons for adding a manifold to a single return pump. For a smaller tank I think it is ideal. For this 65 G tank I have two returns going up the back. Because I used unions and threaded fittings I was able to add a T and small ball valve to feed a carbon reactor from my return pump.
5a8d8b99e9ad4802120935f473153f29.jpg

The white line leads to the reactor.
 

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