Plumbing an in line UV sterilizer using stock plumbing on 3xl 900??

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Flame2hawk

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So now that my tank is up and running and has a few fish in it, its time to install a UV sterilizer. I’ve decided on the AQUA 25w sterilizer. Only problem is that Red Sea says they have no recommendations on how to install the UV sterilizer using the provided stock plumbing. So in other words they did not plan for a ion line sterilizer to ever be installed. Local LFS says would have to replace entire plumbing with PVC. Any suggestions w/b appreciated.
 

blaxsun

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Red Sea and your LFS are correct. You either need to redo the return plumbing to accommodate the UV or run it separately with an attached pump and have some loss of effectiveness. Here's how I installed mine on my Red Sea Reefer 750XXL (the UV is a AquaUV 57-watt).

IMG_0060.JPG

The braided hose on the left connects to a Sicce SDC 6.0 pump just to the left of the MarinePure bio bricks (this is at the end of what Red Sea terms the refugium chamber). It passes through the UV and comes down at the back, and an L barb at the end sends the water flowing into the far left corner. The idea is that anything the UV sterilizes is hopefully sucked up in the skimmer. I run it @ around 500-600 Gph, which is far less than the 1000 Gph the UV is rated for with parasites.

As the 900 3XL doesn't come with an ATO you'll probably have some other real estate possibilities that I don't. Also note that running it inverted isn't necessarily recommended and poses some challenges - but it can be made to work just as effectively as any other position.

Just like any skimmers and reactors - this setup isn't going to force all the water through the UV (some will invariably end up bypassing it). However, with a flow of ~600 Gph and a tank size of 200 gallons - in theory, I'm cycling the entire tank and sump volume three times every hour.
 
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Flame2hawk

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Red Sea and your LFS are correct. You either need to redo the return plumbing to accommodate the UV or run it separately with an attached pump and have some loss of effectiveness. Here's how I installed mine on my Red Sea Reefer 750XXL (the UV is a AquaUV 57-watt).

IMG_0060.JPG

The braided hose on the left connects to a Sicce SDC 6.0 pump just to the left of the MarinePure bio bricks (this is at the end of what Red Sea terms the refugium chamber). It passes through the UV and comes down at the back, and an L barb at the end sends the water flowing into the far left corner. The idea is that anything the UV sterilizes is hopefully sucked up in the skimmer. I run it @ around 500-600 Gph, which is far less than the 1000 Gph the UV is rated for with parasites.

As the 900 3XL doesn't come with an ATO you'll probably have some other real estate possibilities that I don't. Also note that running it inverted isn't necessarily recommended and poses some challenges - but it can be made to work just as effectively as any other position.

Just like any skimmers and reactors - this setup isn't going to force all the water through the UV (some will invariably end up bypassing it). However, with a flow of ~600 Gph and a tank size of 200 gallons - in theory, I'm cycling the entire tank and sump volume three times every hour.
Thank you very helpful!
 
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Flame2hawk

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Red Sea and your LFS are correct. You either need to redo the return plumbing to accommodate the UV or run it separately with an attached pump and have some loss of effectiveness. Here's how I installed mine on my Red Sea Reefer 750XXL (the UV is a AquaUV 57-watt).

IMG_0060.JPG

The braided hose on the left connects to a Sicce SDC 6.0 pump just to the left of the MarinePure bio bricks (this is at the end of what Red Sea terms the refugium chamber). It passes through the UV and comes down at the back, and an L barb at the end sends the water flowing into the far left corner. The idea is that anything the UV sterilizes is hopefully sucked up in the skimmer. I run it @ around 500-600 Gph, which is far less than the 1000 Gph the UV is rated for with parasites.

As the 900 3XL doesn't come with an ATO you'll probably have some other real estate possibilities that I don't. Also note that running it inverted isn't necessarily recommended and poses some challenges - but it can be made to work just as effectively as any other position.

Just like any skimmers and reactors - this setup isn't going to force all the water through the UV (some will invariably end up bypassing it). However, with a flow of ~600 Gph and a tank size of 200 gallons - in theory, I'm cycling the entire tank and sump volume three times every hour.
Yes you are in essence by passing the in line plumbing system which makes sense since otherwise you would have to redo all the plumbing. You do run a chance of not catching all the water as often but it should do a good job and under the circumstances, there is little choice. Hope Red Sea corrects this design flaw in future as most reefers will want to add a sterilizer especially if they have some fish which most do. Thx again
 

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Yes you are in essence by passing the in line plumbing system which makes sense since otherwise you would have to redo all the plumbing. You do run a chance of not catching all the water as often but it should do a good job and under the circumstances, there is little choice. Hope Red Sea corrects this design flaw in future as most reefers will want to add a sterilizer especially if they have some fish which most do. Thx again
Yes. It's not as efficient as plumbing it directly into the returns, but I'm taking it from one chamber and diverting it into another (and this chamber only flows in one direction - to the return pump). I figure about ~50% of the water that normally flows into the skimmer chamber is diverted through the UV sterilizer - which isn't really any different than plumbing a bypass on the return lines with a manifold (since less than 50% would go through the UV sterilizer there as well). This is based on both of the Sicce SDC pumps running @ 600-650 Gph.

Note that I can actually bump smaller Sicce SDC on the UV up to 1100 Gph which is still a "kill" setting for parasites. I prefer running it a bit slower (and quieter) with almost a double dose of radiation exposure. I'm still cycling the 3x the volume of the entire system through the UV sterilizer every hour.
 

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Red Sea and your LFS are correct. You either need to redo the return plumbing to accommodate the UV or run it separately with an attached pump and have some loss of effectiveness. Here's how I installed mine on my Red Sea Reefer 750XXL (the UV is a AquaUV 57-watt).

IMG_0060.JPG

The braided hose on the left connects to a Sicce SDC 6.0 pump just to the left of the MarinePure bio bricks (this is at the end of what Red Sea terms the refugium chamber). It passes through the UV and comes down at the back, and an L barb at the end sends the water flowing into the far left corner. The idea is that anything the UV sterilizes is hopefully sucked up in the skimmer. I run it @ around 500-600 Gph, which is far less than the 1000 Gph the UV is rated for with parasites.

As the 900 3XL doesn't come with an ATO you'll probably have some other real estate possibilities that I don't. Also note that running it inverted isn't necessarily recommended and poses some challenges - but it can be made to work just as effectively as any other position.

Just like any skimmers and reactors - this setup isn't going to force all the water through the UV (some will invariably end up bypassing it). However, with a flow of ~600 Gph and a tank size of 200 gallons - in theory, I'm cycling the entire tank and sump volume three times every hour.
Dude, you're so helpful to other Red Sea owners. I know this is not my thread but I just wanted to say thank you. Your input is incredibly valuable.
 

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Dude, you're so helpful to other Red Sea owners. I know this is not my thread but I just wanted to say thank you. Your input is incredibly valuable.
You are more than welcome my friend! It's not always immediately apparent what you can or can't do with the Red Sea tanks "out-of-the-box", so if I can ever add a small bit of clarity I'm happy to do ao.
 

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Red Sea and your LFS are correct. You either need to redo the return plumbing to accommodate the UV or run it separately with an attached pump and have some loss of effectiveness. Here's how I installed mine on my Red Sea Reefer 750XXL (the UV is a AquaUV 57-watt).

IMG_0060.JPG

The braided hose on the left connects to a Sicce SDC 6.0 pump just to the left of the MarinePure bio bricks (this is at the end of what Red Sea terms the refugium chamber). It passes through the UV and comes down at the back, and an L barb at the end sends the water flowing into the far left corner. The idea is that anything the UV sterilizes is hopefully sucked up in the skimmer. I run it @ around 500-600 Gph, which is far less than the 1000 Gph the UV is rated for with parasites.

As the 900 3XL doesn't come with an ATO you'll probably have some other real estate possibilities that I don't. Also note that running it inverted isn't necessarily recommended and poses some challenges - but it can be made to work just as effectively as any other position.

Just like any skimmers and reactors - this setup isn't going to force all the water through the UV (some will invariably end up bypassing it). However, with a flow of ~600 Gph and a tank size of 200 gallons - in theory, I'm cycling the entire tank and sump volume three times every hour.
Just an honest observation, but your UV is mounted incorrectly. Having the fittings pointed down will allow a void in the body and will allow temperatures to climb when the water does not encompass the quartz tube efficiently. It will also cause premature burn out of the bulb since the temperatures will climb when not completely submerged.
 

blaxsun

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Just an honest observation, but your UV is mounted incorrectly. Having the fittings pointed down will allow a void in the body and will allow temperatures to climb when the water does not encompass the quartz tube efficiently. It will also cause premature burn out of the bulb since the temperatures will climb when not completely submerged.
You are correct, and I have circumvented this to a large extent to ensure that the UV is 95% or more filled and that there is little to no void or air in the unit (I won't go into detail, but suffice to say that this was a 2-person job for about 30-45 minutes).

I plan to remount it at some point (possibly with a custom manifold), but I so appreciate the head's up.

Now if we can just get Red Sea to offer a manifold/UV upgrade kit...
 
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You are correct, and I have circumvented this to a large extent to ensure that the UV is 95% or more filled and that there is little to no void or air in the unit (I won't go into detail, but suffice to say that this was a 2-person job for about 30-45 minutes).

I plan to remount it at some point (possibly with a custom manifold), but I so appreciate the head's up.

Now if we can just get Red Sea to offer a manifold/UV upgrade kit...
Are the fittings suppose to be pointed up vs down. I’m installing tomorrow so please let me know what’s proper way. Thx
 
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I’ve spoken to some one and observed many UV installations on YouTube and online. Many are installed with the inlets/fittings pointed down. I suppose if its your only option due to poorly designed plumbing, then its better than nothing.
 

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I’ve spoken to some one and observed many UV installations on YouTube and online. Many are installed with the inlets/fittings pointed down. I suppose if its your only option due to poorly designed plumbing, then its better than nothing.
If you can plumb the UV and allow a portion of your plumbing to sit above the body of the sterilizer it will help fill the body then just allowing the body to drain. Depending on the design of the uv will determine if you can run the fill and drain down. Penntair and Aqua UV do not have any special type of design to allow this, but forcing the flow of water to exit above the uv will help fill the body.
 
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If you can plumb the UV and allow a portion of your plumbing to sit above the body of the sterilizer it will help fill the body then just allowing the body to drain. Depending on the design of the uv will determine if you can run the fill and drain down. Penntair and Aqua UV do not have any special type of design to allow this, but forcing the flow of water to exit above the uv will help fill the body.
Can the uv be installed vertically upright on the side of the tank and have the fittings pointing towards the tank,
 

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They do recommend installing it with the barbs up if installed horizontally (though this is not always possible) or if installed vertically with the electrical/bulb side pointing up.
 
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With lots of reading, YouTube and forum feedback, I landed on vertically hanging a 40W Aqua UV independent of the sump. Many advantages of doing it this way not the least of which is thorough water cycling coverage and ability to easily change bulb and even remove the unit if not needed 24/7. Hoping this does the trick as my bacteria bloom is being very stubborn even though I check nitrites and ammonia levels every day and they are both zero. Not sure why it hasn’t cleared in 2 weeks now.

C2A30B72-AA3F-4DFA-954A-F944FCD50540.jpeg 5444C84F-4C0D-44CD-AAC7-235669B8F057.jpeg
 
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Cleared it up in 24 hours. However the underlying issue is that there is not enough bacteria to fight the ammonia build up and thus the bloom. After approximately 2 1/2 wks with bacteria bloom and no measurable ammonia, today testing revealed a small trace of ammonia. Between 0 and .025ppm. So will continue to add Bacter7 and when doing so turn off UV for at least 4 hours.
 

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I have the 3lx 900 and my lfs installed the uv over the second sump running off a manifold (at the end) with a separate pump to run manifold and uv. They didn't do it right. They had intake and outtake line in same chamber. I moved the outtake line to main sump and plan to move the pump to the main sump as well and just run a longer hose to the manifold.
 

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I have a RSR 250 and am in the process (read slow process) of installing an Aqua 25 watt classic UV sterilizer. My concern with the plumbing redo was vapour locks. I did a search and only one result, a tank crash and if there was vapour lock anywhere in the various posts, I couldn’t find it. I too will be doing the “unconventional” installation. No doubt making the BRS top 10 UV installation fails. They are correct with the comments about it not making sense to buy the equipment and then not have it do as effective a job as it could with proper installation. My plan is to have water from the display run in series through the sterilizer, probe box and then into the recirculating skimmer. I have a valve installed in the overflow box to control flow. Note: Aqua recommends using filtered water..... so I guess I will make their noddy list too. I do have an Apex so I could add a flow meter, but I’m always reading that they are poo! Can we say poo on here? Why yes we can! I plan to check flow on occasion using the timed bucket and multiplication method. Thanks for the pictures, these are helpful.
The reason for running the UV post-filter is to ensure things like snails, substrate, etc. don't end up passing through the UV and impacting the glass. The main reason for the pump on the UV is to regulate flow, but in theory gravity fed could work.

I'm not sure how much unfiltered water could potentially clog up the UV, either - but even filtered I still get some detritus buildup on the pump that powers the UV. I guess when I do my annual maintenance and inspection in a year I'll find out how much gunk accumulated in it.

Every now and then I'll crank up the flow to 100% to blast it out for 15-20 minutes.
 

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