Plumbing in 25W UV using Y fittings

PigDaddyF15E

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I ordered an IM 100 EXT (See my build thread). Before it arrives I want to get my plumbing supplies ordered. Please see the inserted line drawing I did of my plan. Feedback/Inputs appreciated.

Discussion Points:
1. I'm trying to use flexible PVC to the max extent possible. Less head loss instead of hard pvc fittings all over the place. (personal choice)
2. I'm using Y fittings instead of T's. I just think you get less "turbulence" this way and I think it will work.
3. UV is for Algae Control. I will be running the recommended flow 472GPH/788GPH (Suggested*/Maximum).
4. I'm using 1 inch Apex flow meters to make sure I get the recommended flow through the UV (Algae)but also another one further down to make sure I'm getting the right turnover. Personally...I think it's necessary to have the flow meters...I just think you really can't be that accurate without them.

Plumbing V1.png
 

lapin

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Nice
 

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UV plumbing help.jpg

You may want to move gate valve #1 (red circle) to the other downstream side of the first Y fitting. Here's the reasoning, with the inlet and outlet of the UV plumbed into the same line, there is no appreciable difference in pressure, thus no controllable flow. You may get some flow due to the eductor effect of the second Y fitting but not enough to do much good. By moving gate valve #1 to the other side of the first Y fitting you will be able to balance the pressure/flow across the two pathways. You may end up running with gate valve #2 wide open and gate valve #1 just slightly closed down. Hope this helps.
 
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PigDaddyF15E

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UV plumbing help.jpg

You may want to move gate valve #1 (red circle) to the other downstream side of the first Y fitting. Here's the reasoning, with the inlet and outlet of the UV plumbed into the same line, there is no appreciable difference in pressure, thus no controllable flow. You may get some flow due to the eductor effect of the second Y fitting but not enough to do much good. By moving gate valve #1 to the other side of the first Y fitting you will be able to balance the pressure/flow across the two pathways. You may end up running with gate valve #2 wide open and gate valve #1 just slightly closed down. Hope this helps.

Thanks to you both! Just the feedback I need. I'll add a gate vale after the Y and keep the other two in place. That will let me shut off flow to the UV and disconnect it for maintenance if required.
 

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My UV is hard plumbed, but might give you an alternate view of mounting on the IM 100 EXT. Pictures in the build thread.
 
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PigDaddyF15E

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Made a couple of changes based on input:

1. Added 1" slip/slip gate valve after the first Y to control flow into the UV
2. The Pentair comes with a 1.5" union/slip so I will reduce down to 1" at that point.
3. Put the 1" apex flow monitor just after the output of the UV.
4. 1" gate valve moved closer to second Y to now just past the apex flow monitor on the UV output

Plumbing v2.png
 

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The following is just technical hydraulic nerd talk FYI, so you can skip it if you'd like. The anti turbulence runs before and after are recommended to be 10 to 15 times the length of the internal diameter. The best call out I could find for the Apex 1" turbine flow meter internal diameter was from their European website, https://www.neptunestore.eu/eng/neptune-systems-flow-sensor-1.html
which calls out a dimension of 20mm (=.787") So, 10-15 times = 7.87" to 11.8". If you have the room it certainly wouldn't hurt to go that long (should give smoother readings) but it's probably a little overkill and most likely will work just fine at 5".:rolleyes: Jeez, did I really just type this?;Facepalm Okay, I'll zip it now.:D
 
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PigDaddyF15E

PigDaddyF15E

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The following is just technical hydraulic nerd talk FYI, so you can skip it if you'd like. The anti turbulence runs before and after are recommended to be 10 to 15 times the length of the internal diameter. The best call out I could find for the Apex 1" turbine flow meter internal diameter was from their European website, https://www.neptunestore.eu/eng/neptune-systems-flow-sensor-1.html
which calls out a dimension of 20mm (=.787") So, 10-15 times = 7.87" to 11.8". If you have the room it certainly wouldn't hurt to go that long (should give smoother readings) but it's probably a little overkill and most likely will work just fine at 5".:rolleyes: Jeez, did I really just type this?;Facepalm Okay, I'll zip it now.:D
I'll make sure to give it as much of a straight shot as I can. Would be better if the aquarium was here......I've been buying parts for months now....they are starting to stack up
 

flagg37

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What is your rationale for having a gate valve both on the input and output of the UV?
 
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PigDaddyF15E

PigDaddyF15E

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What is your rationale for having a gate valve both on the input and output of the UV?
I wanted to be able to shut off all flow to the UV and still be able to return water to the tank. I figured if the UV needed MX or something.

I ended up going with T-Joints instead of Y-Joints (had trouble getting one). According to the apex flow meters I'm getting about 520 GPH at the exit of the UV and 500 at the flow meter after the second T-Joint.

I'll update the drawing with what actually ended up getting installed. (few slight differences).
 

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