Plumbing in the works...Calling all plumbing gurus

gesock

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I have started the plumbing on my tank and wouldn't mind any and all feedback. Please don't hold back as I haven't glued anything yet and don't mind altering things.

My biggest concern is inside my overflow box. I can't set up bean animal because the piping is too big. I was thinking of putting a strainer on the my main line, a Maggie muffler on the second line and then just leave my emergency pipe open. I didn't get a great picture of the inside of the box.

I'm also going to add a union on the return line under the back flow preventer valve.

As info I'm running a Maxspect pump that I plan to branch off to a manifold as well. The pump puts out 3170 gph and my overflow box puts out 1600 gph. I'll be using the manifold to supply the algae reactor and carbon reactor.

Like I said, please don't hold back. Rather get recommendations now instead of later when I glue it all together!

plum.jpg plum2.jpg plum3.jpg plum4.jpg plum5.jpg plum6.jpg
 

Snoopy 67

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Bean Animal drains work with any size plumbing. The valve sets the water level inside the box.
BEFORE you have a problem, support the pipes coming down from the outside box avoiding stress on the box itself.
"Clic" clamps work great & you can use a short piece of threaded rod to line them up off the stand.
 

KStatefan

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If you are going to use the ball valve to adjust the full siphon I would change it to a gate valve.
 

WVNed

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The only thing see that may not matter to you is the return will flow a lot more out the shorter leg. It splits at the tee based on resistance.
Other than that it looks fine to me.
 
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gesock

gesock

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Bean Animal drains work with any size plumbing. The valve sets the water level inside the box.
BEFORE you have a problem, support the pipes coming down from the outside box avoiding stress on the box itself.
"Clic" clamps work great & you can use a short piece of threaded rod to line them up off the stand.
So my problem with the bean animal is that the elbows being as large as they are overlap the other pipes. I can't figure out a way where they don't do that. I'm going to add the supports once I glue everything together.
 
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gesock

gesock

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The only thing see that may not matter to you is the return will flow a lot more out the shorter leg. It splits at the tee based on resistance.
Other than that it looks fine to me.
Thanks! I have a plan to add a gyre on the long leg side to compensate for the lower flow on that side.
 

ca1ore

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So my problem with the bean animal is that the elbows being as large as they are overlap the other pipes. I can't figure out a way where they don't do that. I'm going to add the supports once I glue everything together.
Then don't use elbows. Here is how I 'solved' the space problem.

file-101.jpeg
 

ca1ore

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The overflow box looks good, don't love the return though. At the very least you are going to want to support that horizontal run of pipe, particularly because that check valve may 'hammer' when it closes. On the subject of the check valve, most experienced reefer don't use them anymore. Will the sump hold all that water when, not if, it fails?
 

BZOFIQ

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From what I gather from EMS's videoon YT (an overflow manufacturer) the valve used to dial in the full siphon should be as close as possible to the sump to aid in quickly purging air from the line.
 

Ratherbeflyen

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So my problem with the bean animal is that the elbows being as large as they are overlap the other pipes. I can't figure out a way where they don't do that. I'm going to add the supports once I glue everything together.
You have room. The main or full siphon drain with the gate valve doesn't need a stand pipe. You can regulate the water level in the overflow box with the gate valve. Either cut it down, or take it out. My bean animal only has a strainer on it to keep livestock out of the plumbing and sump.

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Then your secondary drain can overlap the primary drain.

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