Plumbing my first sump - 80g display, 45g sump, single corner Herbie overflow - help wanted!
Logical_Plan
Active Member
How will you know the flow through the UV filter? An inline flow meter in the left side branch going back to the return line might help.
Also, UV should be plumbed with the output a bit higher than the input. As drawn, totally flat you could get an air bubble at the entire top, making it not effective.
Otherwise, nice diagram and design.
Also, UV should be plumbed with the output a bit higher than the input. As drawn, totally flat you could get an air bubble at the entire top, making it not effective.
Otherwise, nice diagram and design.
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adittam
Valuable Member
I don't have an Apex and don't plan to, so are there flow meters that are safe for reef use, don't restrict flow unnecessarily, and don't require an Apex system to read a value? Alternatively, could I plumb in a T and another ball valve after the UV to just measure how long it takes to collect gallon in a container and do the math?
Logical_Plan
Active Member
I would think that anything labeled for potable water would be aquarium safe.
The T and ball valve won't work because you are running a closed loop. Once you open the loop more flow will go to the open end regardless of the gate valve setting.
Some users on R2R seem to recommend GPI flow meters
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adittam
Valuable Member
Good point about the closed loop.
Flow meters are just as much $ as a small UV. Good lord.
I think a better strategy might be to just to plumb a separate pump for the UV, or buy a really oversized UV and just run it in-line with the return pump.
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adittam
Valuable Member
Given the layout of my sump, is there any way I can plumb a “closed loop” with a separate pump in one chamber, going through the UV, and then emptying into a different chamber farther along that WON’T be a risk to overflow my sump?
Yates273
Valuable Member
It sure if you can decipher my drawing but this is what I did. I have a 120 with a single corner overflow like you. I utilized both holes drilled in tank for herbie overflow and used an over the top return
Logical_Plan
Active Member
You don't need to closed loop that way, just return to the tank, not the sump. If you get a DC pump you can set the flow rate. Returning to the main tank will be better for turn over through the UV.
Greg P
Valuable Member
It's perfectly fine to take water from a chamber at or before the return pump, and return it to a chamber previous to the pump, as long as the overflow weir being used can handle the flow.
It's not the ideal way to run a UV, but is how I've run my chiller and UV for 10 years.
No messing with the return pump flow is my goal.
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adittam
Valuable Member
This is exactly what I was thinking - I would rather not have two returns to the tank, because it would mean I’d have to readjust the overflow gate valve any time I adjust or turn on or off the UV, and it would mean another return line up over the back rim of the tank. Neither one are deal-killers, but if I could keep all of the UV stuff in the stand, I’d be thrilled.
Do you have a photo of how yours is plumbed? Does the UV flow go “downstream” in the sump or “upstream”? Thanks!
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adittam
Valuable Member
Thank you so much for sharing! I kept mine a little simpler for now, but have multiple unions in my return line, so I could plumb in extra things like a manifold down the line without much difficulty.It sure if you can decipher my drawing but this is what I did. I have a 120 with a single corner overflow like you. I utilized both holes drilled in tank for herbie overflow and used an over the top return
Greg P
Valuable Member
Mine is a remote sump, in the office beside my livingroom - through-the-wall plumbing.
I have since changed my methods ... no longer use a UV
I run the pump through my UV and then in to my chiller, and it runs 24/7 regardless of the UV or chiller being on or off, barring maintenance. I've always hoped this would keep the lines clear, and seems to work as far as blockages go.
This also alleviates any stagnant water, so no hydrogen sulphide in the lines.
No handy photos, but mine runs 'upstream', if I get your question correctly.
I run the UV/Chiller pump in the Skimmer chamber (after the socks and before the baffles/return chamber) and return it to the drain chamber (before the socks). This also filters out anything nuked the socks are able to catch.
Sure, it recycles some water, but I don't care. I'm not looking to UV the whole tank, and the chiller works just fine as I don't need to cool every gallon of water, just the whole system.
My temp probe is in the baffles before the return pump (with the heaters) and all works well for me.
Bye the way, I QT all my critters and stopped using my UV back in 2016.
I saw no difference in the health of my tank, either good or bad, so stopped wasting money on UV bulbs.
I still used QT methods for all fish additions after shutting down my UV and all is well.
If your QT methods are solid you don't need a UV for fish-related issues.
Good luck !!
I have since changed my methods ... no longer use a UV
I run the pump through my UV and then in to my chiller, and it runs 24/7 regardless of the UV or chiller being on or off, barring maintenance. I've always hoped this would keep the lines clear, and seems to work as far as blockages go.
This also alleviates any stagnant water, so no hydrogen sulphide in the lines.
No handy photos, but mine runs 'upstream', if I get your question correctly.
I run the UV/Chiller pump in the Skimmer chamber (after the socks and before the baffles/return chamber) and return it to the drain chamber (before the socks). This also filters out anything nuked the socks are able to catch.
Sure, it recycles some water, but I don't care. I'm not looking to UV the whole tank, and the chiller works just fine as I don't need to cool every gallon of water, just the whole system.
My temp probe is in the baffles before the return pump (with the heaters) and all works well for me.
Bye the way, I QT all my critters and stopped using my UV back in 2016.
I saw no difference in the health of my tank, either good or bad, so stopped wasting money on UV bulbs.
I still used QT methods for all fish additions after shutting down my UV and all is well.
If your QT methods are solid you don't need a UV for fish-related issues.
Good luck !!
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adittam
Valuable Member
Thanks so much for the in-depth reply! That’s exactly what I was asking about upstream vs downstream…I was thinking that if I could have the UV flow downstream in the sump, I wouldn’t be recycling water, but I’m not familiar with sump and baffle operation yet to know if doing it that way would be a flood risk somehow. I suppose even though it’s not ideal to recycle water in UV operation, you’re still treating mostly “new” water as it mixes in.
I only purchase QT’d fish, but I don’t have the means or patience to QT my corals, so I’m worried I’ll bring in something that would benefit from zapping with UV at some point.
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