Post cycling planted tank advice.

[DaDom]

Hey, my question is kinda simple but I'll put the context beneath. Simply put, considering that at the moment I only have an API test kit for nitrogen compounds and pH, what should I do now that I have completed cycling this to be macroalgae tank? Leave it be for awhile, doing water changes with fresh seawater for micronutrients? Is it okay to get fish(mollies) yet? I am planning on getting at least a phosphate kit, but that may take longer than I would like.


I have a kinda bare bones and untraditional setup for a tank that I hope to mainly grow gracilaria, and maybe other macros in. Setup consists of a sump approx 1.5 times the volume of the 15 gallon, glass tank, and is situated on my sun exposed roof, and I use natural seawater as opposed to buying salt. The tank has recently finished a fishless cycle(fish food, followed by ammonia sulphate dosing when the prior was not doing much), and the tank currently has around 20 ppm nitrates as a result according to the API test kit. As a result, there is a brown film algae that I don't believe to be diatoms(doesn't dissapesr at night), that grows on every surface. My question revolves around what to do next. Currently the only livestock I have are a few fragments of gracilaria and ulva, and the gracilaria finally started growing noticeably over the past week, but I'm not sure if it's growing as fast as it could/should, and the red pigment isn't a dark as it could be(not sure if that's a problem or not). The ulva just slowly turns yellow over days and withers when exposed to sunlight although it, along with every other algae in the tank pearls minutes within minutes of sun exposure, so I thought that should mean its photosyntheszing and should grow?

 

[Fish Think Pink]

Hey, my question is kinda simple but I'll put the context beneath. Simply put, considering that at the moment I only have an API test kit for nitrogen compounds and pH, what should I do now that I have completed cycling this to be macroalgae tank? Leave it be for awhile, doing water changes with fresh seawater for micronutrients? Is it okay to get fish(mollies) yet? I am planning on getting at least a phosphate kit, but that may take longer than I would like.


I have a kinda bare bones and untraditional setup for a tank that I hope to mainly grow gracilaria, and maybe other macros in. Setup consists of a sump approx 1.5 times the volume of the 15 gallon, glass tank, and is situated on my sun exposed roof, and I use natural seawater as opposed to buying salt. The tank has recently finished a fishless cycle(fish food, followed by ammonia sulphate dosing when the prior was not doing much), and the tank currently has around 20 ppm nitrates as a result according to the API test kit. As a result, there is a brown film algae that I don't believe to be diatoms(doesn't dissapesr at night), that grows on every surface. My question revolves around what to do next. Currently the only livestock I have are a few fragments of gracilaria and ulva, and the gracilaria finally started growing noticeably over the past week, but I'm not sure if it's growing as fast as it could/should, and the red pigment isn't a dark as it could be(not sure if that's a problem or not). The ulva just slowly turns yellow over days and withers when exposed to sunlight although it, along with every other algae in the tank pearls minutes within minutes of sun exposure, so I thought that should mean its photosyntheszing and should grow?

+1 vote yes you can now add your planned mollies

You don't mention light, and light is one of three key items you need. Don't break the bank - I use a $3.50 LED 5k 60w equivalent lightbulb from home improvement store with a shop light fixture. It's the new 'daylight' designation that falls between soft white (yellow) and bright white (wow).

An inexpensive Refugium Bulb | Melev's Reef

melevsreef.com

Seems you already know your other two needed items - nitrate and phosphate... Easiest way is add some fish, feed some fish, voila nitrate and phosphate.

NOTE: if there will be distance between bulb and water surface, perhaps instead go with stronger 100w equivalent 5k light bulb

Your red pigments usually due to lighting, too much not enough but going with a freshwater type light (Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q1 2022 recommendation) can help - or the $3.50 lightbulb option if your budget doesn't yet allow phosphate test kit... Here is my sump growing macroalgaes on my $3.33 LED (box multiple lightbulb set is cheaper) from home depot (NOTE: I've put my sump on 24 hour lighting schedule because the purpose of my refugium is help with nitrate & phosphate numbers in main tank (and grow tang snacks):

 

[DaDom]

+1 vote yes you can now add your planned mollies

You don't mention light, and light is one of three key items you need. Don't break the bank - I use a $3.50 LED 5k 60w equivalent lightbulb from home improvement store with a shop light fixture. It's the new 'daylight' designation that falls between soft white (yellow) and bright white (wow).

An inexpensive Refugium Bulb | Melev's Reef

melevsreef.com

Seems you already know your other two needed items - nitrate and phosphate... Easiest way is add some fish, feed some fish, voila nitrate and phosphate.

NOTE: if there will be distance between bulb and water surface, perhaps instead go with stronger 100w equivalent 5k light bulb

Your red pigments usually due to lighting, too much not enough but going with a freshwater type light (Reef Hobbyist Magazine Q1 2022 recommendation) can help - or the $3.50 lightbulb option if your budget doesn't yet allow phosphate test kit... Here is my sump growing macroalgaes on my $3.33 LED (box multiple lightbulb set is cheaper) from home depot (NOTE: I've put my sump on 24 hour lighting schedule because the purpose of my refugium is help with nitrate & phosphate numbers in main tank (and grow tang snacks):

Alright, thanks alot. I'll try to get the mollies asap then, especially for those nutrients. Regarding lights, I can't believe I forgot to mention this, but I'm using full direct sun since it's on my roof. However, since you mentioned the possibility of too much light effecting the colouration, I might get one of those cheap lights you mentioned for a more low maintenance system. Was scared any light I could afford just wouldn't be enough.