I’ve never used it, I won’t put any chemicals in my aquarium if the vendor won’t disclose the ingredients. I did some digging and it apparently just contains citrus and neem oil.
I am expecting it won't work. But, those stores probably do have a ton of experience treating sick fish. Worker said he's used it with great success. Not clear if that was fresh or salt water being treated. This hobby hasn't changed much since 25 years ago when I was last in it, just got back in a year ago. Had really hoped there would be better treatment options in that time. These were my last fish I planned to add into the tank too.
Yeah. Thanks. That's probably what I'm going to try, with continued medicated food and nori, and herbal options. I expect to lose a few, just hoping to avoid a wipe out now.
Fish are stronger than we think. As long as they are still eating, they can usually fight off the disease. Also, lowering the salinity and raising the temp to about 80 helps get the ich to jump off the fish faster. Here's a great article that helped me understand a lot better when I was dealing with it.
Just to clarify, raising the temperature doesn’t work for Cryptocaryon, it is older advice from people dealing with freshwater ich. Raising the temperature with marine ich and having no coinciding treatment will just make the fish sicker faster.Fish are stronger than we think. As long as they are still eating, they can usually fight off the disease. Also, lowering the salinity and raising the temp to about 80 helps get the ich to jump off the fish faster. Here's a great article that helped me understand a lot better when I was dealing with it.
Ick - The Truth About It
Welcome to AquaCorals! The largest Tank Raised Soft Coral Aquaculture facility in the US! Over 100 Soft Coral species are grown on "Real Rock" herewww.aquacorals.com
I've got a 24W and 5W UV in tank currently. Have thought of peroxide, but no idea how you'd dose that for the tank.
Anyone ever try lower temperatures with ich?
At least the oxygen would go up. Intended as a joke. Unless someone tried it and discovered the holy grail.
Oh, that article is full of errors and partial truths- don’t rely on it! Right from the start they give the incorrect scientific name for Cryptocaryon! Their hypo level isn’t low enough to control Cryptocaryon, and comparing it to the human cold isn’t realistic- colds do not cause 100% mortality if untreated.Fish are stronger than we think. As long as they are still eating, they can usually fight off the disease. Also, lowering the salinity and raising the temp to about 80 helps get the ich to jump off the fish faster. Here's a great article that helped me understand a lot better when I was dealing with it.
Ick - The Truth About It
Welcome to AquaCorals! The largest Tank Raised Soft Coral Aquaculture facility in the US! Over 100 Soft Coral species are grown on "Real Rock" here
Well, after three deaths Sunday I tore out all the rocks tonight and moved 6 fish into my 29 gallon tank. Majestic Angelfish, foxface, atlantic Blue Tang, purple Tang, bluehead wrasse, and midas blenny. I left the spotted mandarin, sixline wrasse, neon gobies (2), and court jester gobies (2) in the 125. Coral beauty angel completely disappeared, until I put the rock back in, then out he came, left it alone. Hoping for the best. Couple questions Jay - do you think those 6 fish can live 76 days in a 29 gallon? And, with the fish I listed still in the 125, how likely will the ich parasite load be reduced to manageable in 76 days if they do? Still going to treat the 125 with the Petco medication, and run the UV sterilizers in it. Also, my HOB QT filter has a built in skimmer, I'd like to run it with the fish load in there, but not sure if you can run a skimmer with copper safe. Appreciate your thoughts.
Fish are stronger than we think. As long as they are still eating, they can usually fight off the disease. Also, lowering the salinity and raising the temp to about 80 helps get the ich to jump off the fish faster. Here's a great article that helped me understand a lot better when I was dealing with it.
Ick - The Truth About It
Welcome to AquaCorals! The largest Tank Raised Soft Coral Aquaculture facility in the US! Over 100 Soft Coral species are grown on "Real Rock" here
Since it's going to be in the ich management category, is the QT time for those that survive less than 76 days?
I use 45 days beyond the day the last symptoms were seen- but that is just based on experience, not an actual study.
Jay - some follow up. Lately I've noticed my Majestic Angelfish is not eating. He swims through the "cloud" of food when I put it into the tank, and swims up to and even looks to be smelling the nori on the clip, but I never see him bite it. He's starting to look visibly thinner. I've heard of copper being an appetite suppressant, and they seem to be clear of the ick, so I did a small (4 gallon) change yesterday without replacement of copper, and put carbon back into the HOB filter to start to drop the levels. There's been a lot of aggression from the purple Tang towards the foxface and the wrasse, but not seen him go after the angel. I'm wondering if should consider moving the angel back sooner - ick is a concern, but so is starvation at this point in time. I'm offering nori, spiralina flakes, regular flakes, nori pellets, regular pellets, frozen foods (brine, mysis, krill, squid, carnivore cuisine, etc.). He's not going for any of it... Growing some live brine to try as well, should be ready tonight or tomorrow. Just curious on your thoughts here on Best chances. Thanks in advance.
That's a tough call! No rapid breathing seen? Are you sure the angel's eyesight isn't affected? If you wave your hands outside the tank, does it react? If not, then I would worry about that, but if it shies away, then eyesight isn't the issue. At this point, since the fish *had* been feeding and now it is not, combined with no other symptoms, I would consider moving it into a better environment, one with a stable biofilter and no copper.
