Discussion in 'Battlecorals' started by Battlecorals, Sep 1, 2017.

PSA ON THE LAMENTATION OF THE OCD LED'ER

LED’s work, and they work well! This has been firmly established over the last few years. The once fiery debate over “do they” or “don't they”...
  1. Grey Guy

    Grey Guy Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the advice. I have never heard lighting explained as clearly before. You give me something to do, besides turn the light on and guess.
     
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  2. lwmnfrvr

    lwmnfrvr Member

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    Fantastic thread Adam, I have been chasing the "Dragon" playing the numbers game with very negative results.
    I have two RB Photon 32's sitting approx. 9 inches above the water line and have not been able to dial them in. In fact I have fried four different varities of didgi's trying to provide enough par for the other corals in the aquqarium. The lights can't be raised any further as they are mounted inside a canopy. My tank is mixed reef, heavy on the SPS. (Tank measures 72"L X 18"W X 29"T)
    Your last post has provided me with a starting point. Hopefully this will get me on track.
    In order to leave the lights controller alone, I will slip on a pair of boxing gloves anytime I'm tempted to adjust the lights!
     
  3. Ssteve

    Ssteve Active Member

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    I think there is some actual science to some success with LED's though. As you see with manufactures making led lenses wider and wider, leds have a tendency to give focused hot spots. I dealt with this early on with both kessils being mounted too low(imo) based off the manufactures recommendations, as well as the black box led's(basically what you have) being mounted too low based off general consensus from the forums. Now I see just recently BulkReef posted a video testing the chinese black boxes, and while I do concede that their results may be skewed to help them sell their products, I do think it shows something important as they give you results with several different mounting heights. So if I was in your situation where I couldn't mount my lights at least 14" off the water, I would start looking to swap to something more defused.
     
  4. lwmnfrvr

    lwmnfrvr Member

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    Thank you for your response Steve, I have been looking at different options with one being a drastic change to my canopy. I'm loooking to cut the top of the canopy and raise the lights to at least 16 inches by building a frame for the lights then trimming it out so it doesn't look like heck. The other option is to run the lights at a lower intensity, and try to find that sweet spot where I'm not starving the corals at the bottom of the tank and not frying the SPS at the top.
     
  5. Ashish Patel

    Ashish Patel Valuable Member

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    I told myself I'll never adjust my LEDs settings and here I am reading this article as if its for me. Its true that if its not appealing to your eyes you will eventually change. I changed my radions to SPS AB+ even though I never liked 20K look but figured its good for the corals.

    I've made my final adjustment to my LED spectrum today.. The PAR is 250-350 range where I need it and thats good enough for SPS.
    Radions set to 100% everything except whites at 55%, Red and Greens at 30%
     
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  6. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Please keep us posted.

    In fact I'd really love to have any feedback from people who have stopped tinkering with their fixtures, and what kind of things you are seeing as a result!

    could be a decent way to compile some good info :)
     
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  7. Old Glory

    Old Glory Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Great post. I was debating between Radion and Kessil and went with Kessil for the simplicity of set it and forget it....not having to worry about downloading a program and trying to "get it right".
     
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  8. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Thanks a lot for the feedback and post!


    Please feel free to let us know how it goes with the new fixture:).
     
  9. brad65ford

    brad65ford Active Member

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    totally agree with the statement to set and and forget it. But what about those that have sensitive systems that can not take much par and for some reason the corals don't grow fast because of the low par. Is it still good practice to increase intensity (or lower fixture) over a set period to reach 500-600 par at water surface?
     
  10. m3p

    m3p Member

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    I've really enjoyed my Radions over an SPS tank. I try not to tinker with them so that the corals can adjust. I started with the AB+ mode and have a couple hours of all blue before and after to get those looks. I did drop red to <5% after reading an article that suggested red light may inhibit growth (signals to corals that they are near the surface?). Most red light is gone at 20 ft when diving. We'll see how it goes.
     
  11. swk

    swk Well-Known Member

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    How is the system sensitive? 5-600 at the waterline is fairly low. I have corals that get 6-700 or more.

    There is a strong correlation between nutrients, alkalinity and par levels to make for a successful sps tank

    Cliffs notes version - higher nutrients allows higher alk and more par. With low nutrients the opposite is more ideal.
     
  12. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I agree. I do think that low, and ultra low nutrient systems would be considered more 'sensitive ' in this regard. Not to say that the corals won't adjust to high par environments, but they can certainly be very happy and look great at lower par values for sure in low nutrient systems. There's definitely a huge balancing act going on there as you suggested.

    I've seen large, ultimately super filtered nutrient free systems, with 400 watt halides mounted nearly 3-4 feet above, filled with beautiful thriving acros. my guess is par s in the low 100's. If I raised my lights that high, my sps would surely brown out, and I don't think they'd come back.
     
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