Purchasing new tank zero expirence

[dsargent09]

I am in the process of purchasing a used 180gallon saltwater tank. I was hoping to get some input on a few things.

first- it has a good amount of red algae, and bubble algae. I watched a few videos and it seems like it wont be too difficult to get rid of. I was just wondering if this should be a deal breaker when purchasing an active tank?

Second- equipment. Includes auto top off system (with 20 gal tank), AI reef lights (2) hydra 52 and controller, sump pumps (2), wave pumps (2), has a refuguim,
is this equipment adaquate? Anything I should add while moving the tank?

what chemicals, test kits, etc should I purchase to make the move?

sorry if this is all over the place. Ive always wanted a tank, and am finally jumpping into the hobby. Ive included some pictures. Please share your opinions. It looks like it needs some TLC, but I’m paying less for it than the 2 lights would cost new.

it includes all live stock / reef.
I plan to replace the sand when moved.

 

[CMMorgan]

A little Chemiclean and some Emerald Crabs ... you are good to go!! Sounds like a good deal to me. I don't know if two of those lights have sufficient coverage for a 180 gallon tank. Maybe some of the monster tank build threads can enlighten you on that one.
I do not see a whole lot of coralline in there. Once you get going, be sure to check all of your parameters... ammonia, calcium, mag, alk, etc....

 

[Jeffcb]

Dive in. Set it up and you will figure it out. Reef2Reef is a good place to be. I would keep some sand when you move it.

 

[Rmckoy]

A little Chemiclean and some Emerald Crabs ... you are good to go!! Sounds like a good deal to me. I don't know if two of those lights have sufficient coverage for a 180 gallon tank. Maybe some of the monster tank build threads can enlighten you on that one.
I do not see a whole lot of coralline in there. Once you get going, be sure to check all of your parameters... ammonia, calcium, mag, alk, etc....

 

[Rmckoy]

welcome
To the club .
once your in , there is no way out.
My as well start big .....

I’d research if the lights are enough for corals over that length tank .
The cyano isn’t too big of a issue but can be trick to get rid of .
there are plenty of ugly stages to come .

 

[dsargent09]

A little Chemiclean and some Emerald Crabs ... you are good to go!! Sounds like a good deal to me. I don't know if two of those lights have sufficient coverage for a 180 gallon tank. Maybe some of the monster tank build threads can enlighten you on that one.
I do not see a whole lot of coralline in there. Once you get going, be sure to check all of your parameters... ammonia, calcium, mag, alk, etc....

I read some Q&A on a website that sells these lights. They recommend 3, and the minimum is 2. I’m going to add one.

how difficult is it to move a tank and not damage it? Ive got a quote to move it. Its going to cost $1000..... Ive got the man power. I just worry about killing fish.

 

[CMMorgan]

I read some Q&A on a website that sells these lights. They recommend 3, and the minimum is 2. I’m going to add one.

how difficult is it to move a tank and not damage it? Ive got a quote to move it. Its going to cost $1000..... Ive got the man power. I just worry about killing fish.

I've done it before - albeit with a 90 gallon. Moved that sucker from another town over. I had some very experienced reefers helping me. We went into it with a plan.
To start... set up a bare bottom tank for the livestock. Think of it as a QT.
Depending on how far the drive is, you will want to get the fish transported and put in QT while you take care of the heavy lifting. When I did my move, we used two cars and did two trips.
Day 1: We took the fish, the live rock, coral and a bunch of water. We filled a couple of Brute tubs with the transferred water and kept the rock there while we moved and set up the tank. I kept that in my garage with a small heater and a powerhead. I had that running for almost a week.

Day 2: We finished emptying the tank, sump and stand... then loaded in the two cars or was it three and drove it all home. With the fish and coral in QT and the rock in the Brute, we set to work on cleaning the tank and the sump.
I'd say that it took the better part of a week to get the new tank set up, cleaned, plumbed, etc etc. Once set up and leak free, I added back the rock and inverts. (It goes without saying that I tested for ammonia, etc. ) The fish and coral went in last.

As for the question, "Can it be done without damaging the tank?" Yes. It will take a lot of bodies, patience and time. Like anything worth having... it's worth taking the time to do it right and not rush. Do not move the tank with water in it. Use lots of extra padding. Be extra careful.

When in doubt... hit us up here. PM me if I can lend support!

Best of Luck!!!

 

[davidcalgary29]

If you have the chance, get a good look at the current owner's maintenance routine and ask him or her about each system in operation. Make sure that all equipment is working and calibrated properly; if not, ask the owner to do this or be prepared to do it yourself.

Ask about disease and pest history. Did the owner keep a log? If so, ask them for it. How long ago were additions -- even just a frag - added to the tank? What was the owner's quarantine procedure?

When you get the tank home -- and ensure that it's properly levelled -- fill it with plain old tap water and some fine sand first. Check each seam -- are there incursions? Is the bond coming undone? Are there any weak spots? If there are some weak areas, you might be able to correct them now and not end up with a watery disaster and major flood damage. I just bought a 40g tank from an owner who kept a bare bottom build, and he didn't see the incursion that I did when I put some oolite in. I believe him -- moving the tank and the addition of fine sand revealed what's otherwise very difficult to see.

That sump looks gross as well. You should be able to get it cleaned up with some elbow grease, though...

Just remember -- if you buy all the livestock you're going to inherit all of the tank's problems, as well, and I'd expect plenty of surprises. I'm not sure why there's such an algae problem with an established tank, but it might be a neglect issue. I'd be worried about a tank crash if you use all of that sand -- it might be easier to junk it and go bare bottom while you deal with the algae issues.

It might be worth it if you get a great deal, but I'm not sure that I'd go for this for a first tank. Good luck!

 

[dsargent09]

Its $1300 for everything. Hard to beat. I asked him about the routine, and its clear he neglects the system. I asked him how often he test his chemicals and he said never. He said you dont have to. Basically a few times a year he takes a sample in and they tell him his water is perfect. Lol

this thing is going to need some TLC.
The main topics I’m needing help on is how often to test, what to test for, and how to correct each item.

There is a ton of info on here so I am researching constantly.

 

[davidcalgary29]

I'd test the water now while the tank is set up at his place so you can see what his parameters are and what the problem might be. With only two fish, it's clear that he doesn't have a high bioload, so it's unlikely that high nutrient levels are fueling the problem, unless someone is abusing the tank. The BRS video on cyano suggests that a long-term approach is best to solve the issue unless it's an emergency. And that suggests you have a lot of work ahead of you, although they do recommend a number of products for emergencies.

 

[Twoddler]

I bought a used tank setup 6mths ago, but did nt take any live stock. The only thing I can say is within those 6 mth I had to replace

Return pump
2 x wavemakers
2 x heaters & controller
UV
Ato
Skimmer

This was my first tank aswell, 1000ltr Inc sump, even though I had nt budgeted for replacement equipment at the time.

Still the best thing I,ve ever done, even bought a second tank (Evo 13.5)

What I would say, especially since the tank looks neglected be prepared to upgrade.

Welcome to the saltyside

 

[SPR1968]

Your going to replace the sand which is a good thing, but your basically taking on someone’s problems and the tank has clearly been neglected

Its likely to have phosphate bound up in the rocks which will need dealing with, as it’s likely to keep leaching out for some time, so you may need to research GFO like rowaphos etc to deal with that. But test the phosphate level first to check this.

You will need test kits for nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium and magnesium and test weekly

You might find this helpful

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium

The Supreme Guide To Setting Up A Saltwater Reef Aquarium This article was sponsored by @MarineDepot at www.marinedepot.com. Introduction The marine environment is one of the most complex systems on the planet. The aquarium you are about to set up is only a tiny sliver of the vast ocean...

www.reef2reef.com

All you need to do to keep a successful reef is maintain the water within the correct parameters. Think of yourself as just a ‘water keeper’

 

[CMMorgan]

If you have the chance, get a good look at the current owner's maintenance routine and ask him or her about each system in operation. Make sure that all equipment is working and calibrated properly; if not, ask the owner to do this or be prepared to do it yourself.

Ask about disease and pest history. Did the owner keep a log? If so, ask them for it. How long ago were additions -- even just a frag - added to the tank? What was the owner's quarantine procedure?

When you get the tank home -- and ensure that it's properly levelled -- fill it with plain old tap water and some fine sand first. Check each seam -- are there incursions? Is the bond coming undone? Are there any weak spots? If there are some weak areas, you might be able to correct them now and not end up with a watery disaster and major flood damage. I just bought a 40g tank from an owner who kept a bare bottom build, and he didn't see the incursion that I did when I put some oolite in. I believe him -- moving the tank and the addition of fine sand revealed what's otherwise very difficult to see.

That sump looks gross as well. You should be able to get it cleaned up with some elbow grease, though...

Just remember -- if you buy all the livestock you're going to inherit all of the tank's problems, as well, and I'd expect plenty of surprises. I'm not sure why there's such an algae problem with an established tank, but it might be a neglect issue. I'd be worried about a tank crash if you use all of that sand -- it might be easier to junk it and go bare bottom while you deal with the algae issues.

It might be worth it if you get a great deal, but I'm not sure that I'd go for this for a first tank. Good luck!

This is great advise.

 

[Rmckoy]

Knowing the condition of the tank now .
it wouldn’t be a bad idea to purchase new sand if that’s what you want

take your time .
worse case scenario the tank cycles shortly after setting up which could be a good thing .
There is a chance after setting up you bypass the nitrogen cycle from all the bacteria already established .
if a good clean is your plan .
clean , rinse and scrub all rocks

I have close to 200 lbs of live rock I wished I either got rid of of soaked and scrubbed

Good luck .

if you have any questions , we’re all here to help .
Happy reefing

 

[dsargent09]

Thank you all for the sound advise. I will likely attempt the move Sunday on my own.

when washing the rock / equipment prior to reinstalling... is it ok to use untreated fresh water or do I need to setup some sort of a wash then soak in salt water system?

thank you all for links to all the useful information. I have been reading non stop.
What are your opinions on the apex dos units with wifi controller etc? Do they make life easier or is it just something else that can fail?

 

[Rmckoy]

Thank you all for the sound advise. I will likely attempt the move Sunday on my own.

when washing the rock / equipment prior to reinstalling... is it ok to use untreated fresh water or do I need to setup some sort of a wash then soak in salt water system?

thank you all for links to all the useful information. I have been reading non stop.
What are your opinions on the apex dos units with wifi controller etc? Do they make life easier or is it just something else that can fail?

Cleaning rocks was only a suggestion as I wish I would have cleaned a few rocks when I had the chance .
Attached is a picture of one of my larger pieces covered in everything from coralline to green algae to yellow sponge

 

[dsargent09]

As far as testing goes.... what kit do I need to purchase and what all should I be testing?
Will this suffice?

Professional Reef Test Kit HIREEF (OPEN BOX)

Digital Equipment for the Professional Reefer. Keep an eye on the important parameters with Hanna Instruments HIREEF pack. Hanna has been making accurate and reliable digital testing equipment for years and is our go-to digital testing equipment. The complete kit includes everything for testing...

www.marinedepot.com

 

[davidcalgary29]

Thank you all for the sound advise. I will likely attempt the move Sunday on my own.

when washing the rock / equipment prior to reinstalling... is it ok to use untreated fresh water or do I need to setup some sort of a wash then soak in salt water system?

thank you all for links to all the useful information. I have been reading non stop.
What are your opinions on the apex dos units with wifi controller etc? Do they make life easier or is it just something else that can fail?

I'd get as many (careful and thoughtful) helpers that I can! That's some heavy stuff that you're moving, and breakage is a possibility. I take it that you've already marked out a place in your residence where you'll be setting this up; I was going to put my tanks in the living room...but then decided that the basement was better, as they're much closer to the laundry room and its utility sinks. I didn't want to end up sharing the kitchen sinks with zoas and their palytoxins.

Many people have had success washing their rocks with RODI water, and that's a great idea if you're going to give them a dip to remove pests...but I'd also then put them in saltwater if you're going to give them a scrub. It's always a possibility that you can disturb the biofilm and cause a mini-cycle. I've done this myself a time or two.

I'd buy water quality tests (and lots and lots of salt) before more expensive monitoring equipment. It looks like that establishing and maintaining excellent water quality will help this tank the most, and you can do that with frequent water changes and test kits at this stage.

 

[davidcalgary29]

As far as testing goes.... what kit do I need to purchase and what all should I be testing?
Will this suffice?

Professional Reef Test Kit HIREEF (OPEN BOX)

Digital Equipment for the Professional Reefer. Keep an eye on the important parameters with Hanna Instruments HIREEF pack. Hanna has been making accurate and reliable digital testing equipment for years and is our go-to digital testing equipment. The complete kit includes everything for testing...

www.marinedepot.com

I'd go for a RO/DI unit first if you don't have one or if it doesn't come with the setup. If you are getting a second-hand RO/DI setup, make sure you buy (and install) a new membrane ASAP because, clearly, something isn't working on that tank.

Those HI testers are great, but there are other good multitest kits out there that are less than fifty bucks and that will probably get the same results for you at this stage. You may need to test more for ammonia than calcium with a tank move...

 

[dsargent09]

I'd get as many (careful and thoughtful) helpers that I can! That's some heavy stuff that you're moving, and breakage is a possibility. I take it that you've already marked out a place in your residence where you'll be setting this up; I was going to put my tanks in the living room...but then decided that the basement was better, as they're much closer to the laundry room and its utility sinks. I didn't want to end up sharing the kitchen sinks with zoas and their palytoxins.

Many people have had success washing their rocks with RODI water, and that's a great idea if you're going to give them a dip to remove pests...but I'd also then put them in saltwater if you're going to give them a scrub. It's always a possibility that you can disturb the biofilm and cause a mini-cycle. I've done this myself a time or two.

I'd buy water quality tests (and lots and lots of salt) before more expensive monitoring equipment. It looks like that establishing and maintaining excellent water quality will help this tank the most, and you can do that with frequent water changes and test kits at this stage.

Perfect. Do you have a suggestion on what test kit?