Purple tang cupramine in QT stressed

[ajiisss]

I normally don't quarantine fish I try to buy healthy looking fish from good sources. And my DT is dong good for last 2 months.
I decided to buy a purple tang and quarantine it . The tang was healthy and eating good. After 2 days in QT I decided to treat with copper. Some how the tang went into a shock and is acting weird and stopped eating . The Cupramine level is at .3 right now. I immediately did a water change and added carbon to bring the level to .1. The fish is still in stress . Any one experienced this. The fish had no issues not even a single white spot and was eating pretty good. I think I did a mistake by adding copper . Hope the fish recovers and eating again.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I normally don't quarantine fish I try to buy healthy looking fish from good sources. And my DT is dong good for last 2 months.
I decided to buy a purple tang and quarantine it . The tang was healthy and eating good. After 2 days in QT I decided to treat with copper. Some how the tang went into a shock and is acting weird and stopped eating . The Cupramine level is at .3 right now. I immediately did a water change and added carbon to bring the level to .1. The fish is still in stress . Any one experienced this. The fish had no issues not even a single white spot and was eating pretty good. I think I did a mistake by adding copper . Hope the fish recovers and eating again.

Copper can be harsh on them. I prefer and I believe Jay prefers copper safe which tangs and surgeonfish tolerate better. Hopefully you have a test kit and reliable one to monitor the copper levels which I try not to exceed 2.
When treating with copper , also increase oxygen with as simple as an air stone
Assure levels are not elevated :
Ammonia nitrate
Ph
Temperature
salinity

 

[ajiisss]

Copper can be harsh on them. I prefer and I believe Jay prefers copper safe which tangs and surgeonfish tolerate better. Hopefully you have a test kit and reliable one to monitor the copper levels which I try not to exceed 2.
When treating with copper , also increase oxygen with as simple as an air stone
Assure levels are not elevated :
Ammonia nitrate
Ph
Temperature
salinity

My QT is cycled. I asked lot of people and said cupramine is less stressful to fish than copper safe(ionic vs chelated). Its frustrating.

 

[piranhaman00]

My QT is cycled. I asked lot of people and said cupramine is less stressful to fish than copper safe(ionic vs chelated). Its frustrating.

Cupramine is defiantly more stressful and easier to overdose. Copper Power is superior

 

[schuby]

When I use copper to treat fish in my All-in-One QT, I usually do at least 4 doses instead of 2 (manufacturer's directions). I typically confirm the new fish is eating again before performing the next dose (or the first dose). Tangs are more sensitive to copper and some Tangs can't seem to handle it at all (for these I would only observe for a longer time and not dose any copper). I use a copper test-kit to verify final dosage, but it can be hard to read the color variation: I'm looking for a ball-park confirmation and not an exact reading. I normally do a large water change before starting copper and after, but not during (to keep copper-level consistent). If ammonia gets too high, then I will do a water change. I try to remove any uneaten food after an hour or so with a fine net to prevent unnecessary ammonia creation.

For the nitrifying bacteria, I keep a plastic shipwreck in my QT. It gives fish a place to hide (in and behind) and bacteria a place to live.

I always run an air-stone in my QT. I don't have an auto-topoff (of freshwater) in my QT so I check salinity at least once a day: salinity can change very fast in a small tank with an air-stone increasing evaporation. Large salinity changes over a day can cause extreme stress and disorientation in fish, IME.

In general with my QT, I ensure it is cycled before adding any fish (in case it was empty). I keep an unexpired Ammonia badge at all times when running and check it when back-lit by the QT light. Temp is controlled with a quality heater and checked with a stick-on thermometer.

 

[ajiisss]

When I use copper to treat fish in my All-in-One QT, I usually do at least 4 doses instead of 2 (manufacturer's directions). I typically confirm the new fish is eating again before performing the next dose (or the first dose). Tangs are more sensitive to copper and some Tangs can't seem to handle it at all (for these I would only observe for a longer time and not dose any copper). I use a copper test-kit to verify final dosage, but it can be hard to read the color variation: I'm looking for a ball-park confirmation and not an exact reading. I normally do a large water change before starting copper and after, but not during (to keep copper-level consistent). If ammonia gets too high, then I will do a water change. I try to remove any uneaten food after an hour or so with a fine net to prevent unnecessary ammonia creation.

For the nitrifying bacteria, I keep a plastic shipwreck in my QT. It gives fish a place to hide (in and behind) and bacteria a place to live.

I always run an air-stone in my QT. I don't have an auto-topoff (of freshwater) in my QT so I check salinity at least once a day: salinity can change very fast in a small tank with an air-stone increasing evaporation. Large salinity changes over a day can cause extreme stress and disorientation in fish, IME.

In general with my QT, I ensure it is cycled before adding any fish (in case it was empty). I keep an unexpired Ammonia badge at all times when running and check it when back-lit by the QT light. Temp is controlled with a quality heater and checked with a stick-on thermometer.

WHich copper you use ? Cupramine or Copper safe

 

[vetteguy53081]

Copper is a pure grade treatment which can harsh effects when measured in high numbers and even when in safe ranges.
CopperSafe is a chelated copper compound that is used for the treatment of ich infections in freshwater and Cryptocaryon in saltwater), Flukes (Gyrodactylus), Anchor Worms (Lernaea), Velvet (Oodinium) disease and other external parasites. CopperSafe, when used as directed, maintains a total copper level of 1.5 ppm to 2.0 ppm in the water. CopperSafe remains active for over one month in the aquarium. Levels of 0.3 ppm free copper are recommended in the literature for therapeutic use, but with Coppersafe, the levels of free copper will be measured at 1.5 ppm to 2.0 ppm. This level of copper can be used in the treatment of fish due to Coppersafe's unique chelating agent. The chelating agent binds with the copper making it nontoxic to fish, but effective against parasites. CopperSafe does not discolor the water and will not interfere with the biological filter and a reason why many use it.
You can use a high grade carbon to reduce the level for your tang. The two CANNOT be mixed !!

 

[schuby]

WHich copper you use ? Cupramine or Copper safe

I use Cupramine. I know the actual water volume of my QT because I filled it the first time with a pitcher that has the volume marked on it. Knowing the actual water volume is very important when dosing medications, especially with copper.

 

[ajiisss]

FInally after doing water change and adding carbon back. The fish started eating after 3 hours. I will just observe him for a week