Q for everyone are you FOR or AGAINST QT

For or against QT


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jmichaelh7

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If your quarantine for 45 days at 81 degrees , or 76 days at regular temperatures. This must be done for every coral and invert in the future?

I just don’t see this happening and maybe that’s why people GO Ich Management .

unless you buy loads of corals and inverts at once and quarantine in groups but this is time consuming
 

brandon429

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No I disagree Ive seen a few new tankers apply the rules creatively:

produce a cycled reef that controls ammonia safely


stock with corals and clean up crew and feed them, change water, guide out the uglies manually, not hard to do in smaller tanks within six weeks or so after stocking. build up a working base reef


then fallow it then add only prepped fish, how hard is that? Some weeks dedicated to prepping systems for the highest caliber of marine life we currently buy and trade?

many will prefer to add unprepped coral frags in the future. This is dirty fallow vs folks dedicated enough to have a separate 40 breeder to fallow things through, an effort gradient exists.

I think people interpret a ready cycle in terms of ammonia control as a reason to make use of that control with a quick mix of fish. A few folks have mentioned they too see haphazard stocking rates + speciation mixes that are best taken in order, the one key difference I take from this forum is that true isolated quarantine at home done right, not done short-changed, produces the highest retention numbers. In other forums many other ways are touted, but not so effectively here as I read it and not as the poll shows above.
 
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jmichaelh7

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Has anyone had a 6 week quarantine at 80 degrees ? Successful ? I’d like to hear about it as I’m under going quarantine / fallow
 

SMSREEF

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I’m referring to the 45 day 80+ degree for ich cycle
Are you doing fallow in a display tank with a bunch of anoxic zones, or a 10 gallon bare bottom tank?
10 gal for sure you are good. Not quite as sure with large tank with anoxic areas.
 

jmichaelh7

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Are you doing fallow in a display tank with a bunch of anoxic zones, or a 10 gallon bare bottom tank?
10 gal for sure you are good. Not quite as sure with large tank with anoxic areas.
150 gal , 220 total system. Bare bottom with lots of flow
 
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N.Sreefer

N.Sreefer

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So far looking at the poll it seems like the vast majority are pro qt, gotta say I'm surprised I was thinking it would be an even split for and against. Esp with how some of the qt discussion forums go. Thanks again everyone who's responded!
 

jmichaelh7

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So far looking at the poll it seems like the vast majority are pro qt, gotta say I'm surprised I was thinking it would be an even split for and against. Esp with how some of the qt discussion forums go. Thanks again everyone who's responded!
I’m curious to know how successful the QT are. After 30 day QT, and everything is good and dandy, when the time comes that you want more coral , is everyone running 76 days QT on Corals and Inverts too?

That’s the feedback I’d like to see.
 
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N.Sreefer

N.Sreefer

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I’m curious to know how successful the QT are. After 30 day QT, and everything is good and dandy, when the time comes that you want more coral , is everyone running 76 days QT on Corals and Inverts too?

That’s the feedback I’d like to see.
That's a really good question, not much point in QTing your fish and/or fallowing display it your next batch of coral introduce all kinds of parasites your fish have no immunity to.
 
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AustinBabler

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I’m probably going to start QT’ing. My tanks fairly new and very lightly stocked. 55 gallon and I’ve limited myself to 2 clowns and a white tail tang. Plans are to get bigger tank in 2 years for the tang. But long story short I’ve seen spots on my fish but they never seem to stay long and the spots aren’t huge in number. I’ve seen a total of 4 spots in a month and after a day they disappear for a few weeks. So I can’t rule out if it’s ich or just a fleck of something that gets stuck to them. The spots usually don’t stay for a whole day.
 
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N.Sreefer

N.Sreefer

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Well this is interesting




"Some aquarists also state that a tank’s biological processes can break down medications and in a way, in this case, they are right.

In the case of Chloroquine Phosphate, quarantine tanks should be broken down, dried out, and sterilized between uses to minimize the number of microbes that develop in aquariums (and all their surfaces,) when wet and running. "
 

HuduVudu

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I cannot always see Neobenedenia of a fish, unless the organism is directly on the fish's eye. I can usually see the damage that they do though; tattered fins, rough looking, pale skin. I'm always able to see it in a diagnostic FW dip,

I am not able to identify Capsalids very well - when I say "Neobenedenia", I'm really just speaking in generalities. There are probably two related species, maybe more. I also have a strong suspicion that there is a brackish water species that gets into some systems - rendering hyposalinity treatment ineffective.

Jay
Have you ever seen this clear on it's own?

Does it cause pop-eye?
If it is advanced, is that what causes the cloudy eye or cloudy and bulging?

I assume what you mean on the FW dip is that the nasties fall off and then you can see them?
 

flourishofmediocrity

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The question shouldn't be about if you are "for" or "against" QT, or even if you believe it works. There is no debate on whether or not QT works, hundreds of years of general scientific knowledge and principles confirms that if you properly quarantine a fish that came thru a shipping channel riddled with parasites and diseases your chances of introducing a deadly pathogen to your existing system go down dramatically.

The question should be:

Do you care enough about the animals you are keeping to go thru the trouble of educating yourself on proper quarantine processes if you plan to not limit yourself on where you source your animals from OR are you willing to only source animals from captive breeders or from a dealer that has a satisfactory quarantine process which will likely cost more?

There are *for sure* people that haven't quarantined and haven't had any major losses, some even over many years, but that should not be construed as evidence that QT is not needed.
 

Spieg

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For many years I didn't QT anything, but for the past 10 years or so, I assume any new additions are carrying some parasite or another. I blame this on increased popularity of the hobby combined with suppliers that don't properly handle their holding systems in order to increase their profit margin.
 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

  • I currently have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 73 37.8%
  • Not currently, but I have had feather dusters in my tank in the past.

    Votes: 66 34.2%
  • I have not had feather dusters, but I hope to in the future.

    Votes: 25 13.0%
  • I have no plans to have feather dusters in my tank.

    Votes: 28 14.5%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.5%
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