Question about cycling with Dr. Tim's One and Only.

[Xclusive Reef]

I know this post is kinda old but when you buy Dr. Tim's one and only, does it come with the ammonia ?

 

[Old Glory]

no but he makes some you can buy

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Dr tim's one and only says to add 4 drops of ammonium chloride per gallon of water? so if I have 100 gallon water I am dosing 400 drops of ammonium chloride solution?

 

[Eddie Rogers]

i wouldn't do it, the direction seem off. I used ammonium chloride in my 60 gallon cube, I added the 240 drops per the directions. when i tested the ammonia it was off the chart high. I would start with 50 drops, wait a hour and then test to see where the ammonia levels are. IMO

 

[Xclusive Reef]

i wouldn't do it, the direction seem off. I used ammonium chloride in my 60 gallon cube, I added the 240 drops per the directions. when i tested the ammonia it was off the chart high. I would start with 50 drops, wait a hour and then test to see where the ammonia levels are. IMO

Good to know. Thank you for that.. it would have been a mess lol

 

[Brew12]

Dr tim's one and only says to add 4 drops of ammonium chloride per gallon of water? so if I have 100 gallon water I am dosing 400 drops of ammonium chloride solution?

One drop is 0.05mL so 400 drops would be 20mL making it a much easier measurement. That said, in a 100g tank I would consider only dose up to 1ppm (10mL) to reduce the build up of nitrates.

i wouldn't do it, the direction seem off. I used ammonium chloride in my 60 gallon cube, I added the 240 drops per the directions. when i tested the ammonia it was off the chart high. I would start with 50 drops, wait a hour and then test to see where the ammonia levels are. IMO

Any chance you had a bottle from before the change in 2016? That used to be more concentrated and was 1 drop per gallon.

 

[jeff williams]

I've used dr Tims ammonia and found it to be exact on the money when dosing however as brew said dr Tim made a change to the strength of his ammonia say you will find conflicting info regarding how much to dose. Dose what your bottle says also keep in mind you have a 100 gallon tank but is that really how much water is in the tank ? And finally if ever uncertain about how much to dose test dose a gallon of water then measure it.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

One drop is 0.05mL so 400 drops would be 20mL making it a much easier measurement. That said, in a 100g tank I would consider only dose up to 1ppm (10mL) to reduce the build up of nitrates.


Any chance you had a bottle from before the change in 2016? That used to be more concentrated and was 1 drop per gallon.

yes I believe I do. I think bottle said 1 drop per gallon.

 

[Brew12]

yes I believe I do. I think bottle said 1 drop per gallon.

If you have an older bottle, then you would do 5mL to get to 2ppm and 2.5mL to get to 1ppm for 100g water volume.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

If you have an older bottle, then you would do 5mL to get to 2ppm and 2.5mL to get to 1ppm for 100g water volume.

Thanks buddy I will check tonight after work.

 

[lordraptor1]

Prime is a known adulterant of most nitrite tests, which is why we don't test for nitrite in a cycle assessment, only what ammonia does. false nitrite readings cause madness like the orson welles radio broadcast in the 40s about aliens. I thought that might be helpful to know in case you are still testing for the three common params in cycling, whereas only ammonia matters in all cycles.

it is only an adulterant if you are using a nessler based test kit like salifert ( which read low amounts horribly anyway). the best option for testing is salycilicate based like api and others. in fact i read somewhere dr tims recommends using salycilicate based tests.

 

[lordraptor1]

I know this post is kinda old but when you buy Dr. Tim's one and only, does it come with the ammonia ?

no have to buy seperate

 

[lordraptor1]

i found this thread because im having an issue which is abnormal to say the least, no ammonia added since day 1, going on day 14 and i have ammonia that bounces between .5 ish and 2.0, nitrites 5+, nitrates 160+ been like that for 11 days solid and skimmer has been running 24/7 skimming out a light brown colored skimmate ( dry foam skimming i might add). ive talked to multiple shops ( immediatley dismissing all that tried to sell me something to fix the problem), multiple manufacturers ( of course all said it wasnt their products and they didnt know). i have heard it all from its my rock to its my sand to its my test kit, etc., etc., etc. and as such i have just been waiting it out, got a golf ball amount of cheato yesterday for my fuge, and as of yseterday there was no change in water parameters.

i have read high nitrites stall a cycle, ive read high nitrates can stall a cycle however, in the old days using stability and fish i never experienced such a thing as i am right now with "fishless" cycle.

i ran the system for the first 5 days with NO filter foam or socks and NO skimmer to give the bacteria in a bottle a chance to take hold on my rock substrates and marine pure block ( yes i rinsed the marine pur block, prior to putting it in and filling the tank), i also rinsed my filter foam and socks prior to installing them at the 5 day mark when i did a water change due to the 160ppm nitrates.


i really have NO idea what is going on, ammonia NEVER hit 0, nitrites are currently 5 ( probably higher), and nitrates are also 160 ( again probably higher), im beginnign to think bacteria in a bottle is complete BS and that i have wasted a crapload of time tryign to cycle my 150 gallon tank.

hard to say considering i have 0 living items in the tank outside of bacteria and golf ball size of cheatomorpha, skimmer is removing something from the water ( odor of skimmate isnt the usual stink fest but kinda smells like someone carmalized the stank skimmate in a pan of sugar (i, know wierd)). on the first i plans to drain as much of the water out as i can essentially a 100% water change however. based on current experience i doubt that will do no good because i have done a 50 gallon water change and a 100 gallon water change already in the tank and the trates were still at 160 so something went wonky but i just cannot figure out where.


side note dont run filter socks, foam or skimmer in a sump for the first 5 days using dr tims, otherwise bacteria will occupy your filter foam/pads/socks and not the rock and substrate. different for hang on back power filters that use carbon pads but if you are using a bio wheel remove pad but leave wheel, cannisters again remove foam and floss but leave your ceramic ( or other) biofilter media.

so if anyone has any thoughts on what the heck is going on with my cycle id love to hear it like i said so far i have heard rock, sand, dr tims, test kit, and i have also heard "you should have used fritz turbostart/nitrobacter/nitrospira" which n a side note i did also add some turbostart 900 so i threw that you should have used x product out the danged window to LOL

 

[brandon429]

Your cycle isn’t stalled. What you are using to measure the cycle completion can’t do so like a working seneye meter can

we have updated rules for measure now in 2020 that will reveal its completion


Post a full tank picture

in your description we read about bacteria and nitrate but I don’t see where you used a shrimp or dosed ammonia

the nitrate signifies something was fed or live rock seeding is used, what was it curious to know

nitrite cannot stall a cycle, that’s in opposition to online claims I’m aware


it’s an updated rule based on all MACNA conventions ever held (convention reefs never fail to cycle when its time for you to buy) and all pico reefs on earth that skip cycles for twenty years. We found a pattern different than observations of stalling, we make large cycling threads using different means now.

im sure there are ways to get nitrite to stall nitrification in a lab. It’s not happening in homes.

 

[brandon429]

Proof that no cycle sticks, and nitrite has no bearing in reefing.

If glb added varying amounts of ammonia whether by mistesting or directions updated on bottle that won't stall the cycle. It fills your tank with varying compounds that cross read, and take varying time to clear but that doesn't mean the filter underneath it all any less able. We do a water change to clear the interference, start with clean water once you know you're cycled based on submersion time.

We should use the collective power of the chem forum to prove or deny the possibility of sustained .25 ammonia in reefing

Why does it matter if reef tanks can have stuck cycles? Because when you move homes you don't want to lose animals, cycling science needs precision and predictability in order to protect our tanks. perhaps an emergency setup is needed, no wait time permitted or If you are invited to show...

www.reef2reef.com

reasons your tank is cycled: you used fritz, tested to cycle in 24 hours in a 90 page work thread by Dr Reef, plus other redundant bac. You have stated surface area for fritz bac to attach to, youre cycled

reasons you seem to be not cycled: using nitrite to factor, and non seneye ammonia.

how to prove you’re cycled, two ways:

-change rot cycling water and refill. Add fish, they live.

-use a non seneye test to prove your ammonia works by using updated testing vs bottom line read, i.e. we can use your test to show movement down from a set point ammonia dose; no zero is needed to prove cycle complete. These claims would seem crazy if that thread from the chemistry forum turned out differently than it has



no reef tank on the Internet has ever stalled in cycle. Making assessments off wastewater is different than assessing the clean water condition ability to carry tank bioload.

We can add yours to the list, proofing won’t be hard. You should do option one proofing like they do at reef conventions. It’s the most effective way to show no reef stalls.

its not that some reefs stall and some dont. It’s that none do, not ever, and now that seneye is on scene cycle umps got quiet


even a malfunctioning seneye won’t report free ammonia in the tenths in any system measured, start cycle or completed. That’s a big deal opposite measure than we’ve ever been told regarding ammonia dynamics. We’ve been accepting .25 free ammonia claims for the life of the hobby, that it doesn’t occur is one way conventions get to follow opposite rules than the buyers.