Questions about working with Acrylic in a wood working shop

[Gabe]

Hi, I'm working on a simple 24x24x12 acrylic tank. This will be my first tank build just to learn the process, which is something I have never done in the hobby. I also do a little bit of furniture making as a hobby and have a pretty well stocked wood shop, which seems like it should make the leap a little easier. My questions are pretty much related to what tools/methods will and won't work with Acrylic that I am used to working with wood.

For example: It seems like flush router bits and template bits are commonly used to clean up joints in acrylic tanks. What about round-over bits?

I have also seen some people recommend a higher tpi blade in the table saw when working with acrylic. However, if I was planning to clean up the edges by sanding or using a torch does that even matter? I can make a 12" cut at my miter station easier than at my table saw with a sled too, but wouldn't plan on buying a new blade for that saw.

Any general thoughts on making the transition of working with wood to acrylic would be helpful. Having not done it, I have a feeling my 24x24x12 tank could really quickly become an 18x18x8! For reference, I have all 1/2" acrylic for this build with weld-on 4. Seems like that might be a little overkill on thickness if anything, but mostly curious about cleaning up the edges with a router now (potentially a round-over) and using a saw in the future if the pre-cut sizes aren't perfect (the sheets have been sitting in the box from estreet for about a month and with the record high temps in the northeast, I will probably wait until next weekend to get back into the shop).

 

[oreo54]

I only have experience in laminate and thin plastics but pretty sure I'd consider buying a blade that is made for thicker acrylics.



The negative hook is gentler on the plastic or so I have been told.

Do you " need" it ????

Learn How to Cut, Drill and Finish the Edges of Plexiglass (acrylic)

This page of the Basic Car Audio Electronics site shows you the basic tools for working with acrylic sheeting.

www.bcae1.com

 

[Woodyman]

Hi, I'm working on a simple 24x24x12 acrylic tank. This will be my first tank build just to learn the process, which is something I have never done in the hobby. I also do a little bit of furniture making as a hobby and have a pretty well stocked wood shop, which seems like it should make the leap a little easier. My questions are pretty much related to what tools/methods will and won't work with Acrylic that I am used to working with wood.

For example: It seems like flush router bits and template bits are commonly used to clean up joints in acrylic tanks. What about round-over bits?

I have also seen some people recommend a higher tpi blade in the table saw when working with acrylic. However, if I was planning to clean up the edges by sanding or using a torch does that even matter? I can make a 12" cut at my miter station easier than at my table saw with a sled too, but wouldn't plan on buying a new blade for that saw.

Any general thoughts on making the transition of working with wood to acrylic would be helpful. Having not done it, I have a feeling my 24x24x12 tank could really quickly become an 18x18x8! For reference, I have all 1/2" acrylic for this build with weld-on 4. Seems like that might be a little overkill on thickness if anything, but mostly curious about cleaning up the edges with a router now (potentially a round-over) and using a saw in the future if the pre-cut sizes aren't perfect (the sheets have been sitting in the box from estreet for about a month and with the record high temps in the northeast, I will probably wait until next weekend to get back into the shop).

I discussed some edge trimming with @Tenecor Aquariums.

There is more than one post, but the below should help with your router/trimming questions.

Post in thread 'Designing the Perfect Small AIO. Post your feature request, or wish list & let's build it!' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/d...r-wish-list-lets-build-it.895192/post-9993195

 

[Woodyman]

Hi, I'm working on a simple 24x24x12 acrylic tank. This will be my first tank build just to learn the process, which is something I have never done in the hobby. I also do a little bit of furniture making as a hobby and have a pretty well stocked wood shop, which seems like it should make the leap a little easier. My questions are pretty much related to what tools/methods will and won't work with Acrylic that I am used to working with wood.

For example: It seems like flush router bits and template bits are commonly used to clean up joints in acrylic tanks. What about round-over bits?

I have also seen some people recommend a higher tpi blade in the table saw when working with acrylic. However, if I was planning to clean up the edges by sanding or using a torch does that even matter? I can make a 12" cut at my miter station easier than at my table saw with a sled too, but wouldn't plan on buying a new blade for that saw.

Any general thoughts on making the transition of working with wood to acrylic would be helpful. Having not done it, I have a feeling my 24x24x12 tank could really quickly become an 18x18x8! For reference, I have all 1/2" acrylic for this build with weld-on 4. Seems like that might be a little overkill on thickness if anything, but mostly curious about cleaning up the edges with a router now (potentially a round-over) and using a saw in the future if the pre-cut sizes aren't perfect (the sheets have been sitting in the box from estreet for about a month and with the record high temps in the northeast, I will probably wait until next weekend to get back into the shop).

Also I've never cut acylic, but when I did my vinyl siding, I used one of my nicer miter saw blades, and flipped the blade backwards it cut very clean.

When it was in the normal way it still worked, but it chipped often. Flipping the blade solved that problem, but I don't know if that applies to acylic as well. A dedicated blade would be ideal, but I'm sure you can get by with something else.

 

[GK3]

Hi, I'm working on a simple 24x24x12 acrylic tank. This will be my first tank build just to learn the process, which is something I have never done in the hobby. I also do a little bit of furniture making as a hobby and have a pretty well stocked wood shop, which seems like it should make the leap a little easier. My questions are pretty much related to what tools/methods will and won't work with Acrylic that I am used to working with wood.

For example: It seems like flush router bits and template bits are commonly used to clean up joints in acrylic tanks. What about round-over bits?

I have also seen some people recommend a higher tpi blade in the table saw when working with acrylic. However, if I was planning to clean up the edges by sanding or using a torch does that even matter? I can make a 12" cut at my miter station easier than at my table saw with a sled too, but wouldn't plan on buying a new blade for that saw.

Any general thoughts on making the transition of working with wood to acrylic would be helpful. Having not done it, I have a feeling my 24x24x12 tank could really quickly become an 18x18x8! For reference, I have all 1/2" acrylic for this build with weld-on 4. Seems like that might be a little overkill on thickness if anything, but mostly curious about cleaning up the edges with a router now (potentially a round-over) and using a saw in the future if the pre-cut sizes aren't perfect (the sheets have been sitting in the box from estreet for about a month and with the record high temps in the northeast, I will probably wait until next weekend to get back into the shop).

Drills - different in that you will melt the acrylic as you cut. Cut quickly in thin stuff or cool it.

nails don’t work

I don’t like using screws and tapped holes to hold together any acrylic that’s going to be holding water.

I think the blade that came with your miter will work. I use mine to cut acrylic. Especially if you are cleaning up the edges.

I like to use quick grips when flying acrylic just like gluing wood

I typically don’t sand any acrylic that’s going to be seen as it dulls the finish and I can’t get it back.

 

[HuduVudu]

@Gabe I have had a couple of friends who used to make tanks for a living.

A couple of thoughts.

One, DO NOT use a torch to polish. This will eventually cause crazing especially on the top seams near the lights (heat).

Two, Nova 123 is your friend. Use it often.

Three, gluing and seams are the hard part on acrylic. Some people seem to get them right away, I haven't. My friends did and I even watched and couldn't figure out what the heck they were doing. Figure out how to create clear seams on your own before you take on big projects. The glue consistency and the angle etc play roles. Their a lots of videos on how this is done.

Four, Acrylic is WAY easier than wood to work with but it has it has it's own set of things to deal with. Acrylic does melt easy so you need to be careful when you are cutting to not linger on the cut. Set up and cut quickly.

Good luck being able to deal with acrylic opens up a whole new world of DIY especially in this hobby.

 

[HuduVudu]

I typically don’t sand any acrylic that’s going to be seen as it dulls the finish and I can’t get it back.

You can work up your sanding and then use a buffing wheel to polish. Lots of work though.

 

[SteveMM62Reef]

I spray both sides of the blade with Teflon Dry Lube and let it dry before each cut. Also I check the blade for any build up, and run a little piece of wood through it to clean the blade. The blade I use isn’t for plastics, it’s little hard to find 9” Blades for my Antique Table Saw. Blue Masking tape is your Friend. Run a plastic blade over the tape to keep it from lifting off of the Backer Film. I’ve hand polished the edges with 1200 then 2000 wet sand paper, and 3M headlight polish. But, it’s hard not to get Rounded Edges. Before Glueing, do a final cleaning with Isopropyl Alcohol. BTW on YouTube they have some excellent DIY Corner Clamping Jigs made out of Plywood.

 

[Gabe]

Wow - everyone. Thanks so much for the great feedback and information. Kind of answered a lot of the questions I had but wasn't able to articulate. Will def try th homemade plywood jig. I create jigs for just about everything anyways. Perfefct excuse to use my t track in my workbench. @SteveMM62Reef - I think I might actually have some wet/dry of that grit. Will check though. Appreciate that info.

@HuduVudu - good call, I haven't done much buffing - don't enjoy working on cars like that, but I do have the tools ha. Will check out NOVA 123 and I can tell what you mean - if all goes well, I have a fealing a sump rehaul will be next.

@GK3 lukcily no nails planned and no nails used in my current wood working regardless lol

@Woodyman sounds crazy.... but i might give it a try is the cuts aren't coming out the way I want!

 

[Gabe]

@Gabe

Two, Nova 123 is your friend. Use it often.

A quick google search for Nova 123 and Nova 123 acrylic are showing me mostly acrylic paints in yellow color and some very interesting acrylic finger nails. Any more specifics there? Perhaps this is the Novus acrylic scratch buffer?

 

[HuduVudu]

A quick google search for Nova 123 and Nova 123 acrylic are showing me mostly acrylic paints in yellow color and some very interesting acrylic finger nails. Any more specifics there? Perhaps this is the Novus acrylic scratch buffer?

My bad Novus ... The effects of oldness kicking in.

 

[Guns286]

I’m building an acrylic tank, for the first time, too and although I’m not a professional carpenter, I’ve made a lot of wooden projects.
The higher TPI count makes for a smoother cut, but it also means that a larger surface area is causing more friction/heat on the acrylic. I was cutting 1/2“ thick acrylic, so it had to be slow cuts, to avoid chipping. I ended up putting candle wax on the blade before each cut. It seemed to work because I had no issues with melting.
I‘ve also read and seen a video about roundover bit working fine on acrylic. I’m ordering the Novus stuff too.
I was able to use a regular hole saw to make the plumbing cutouts. I figured Fostner bits would generate too much friction.
So far I’ve only made the overflow boxes. I got the hang of using Weld-On 4 pretty quickly. I used painters tape, a dead flat surface and a square to make sure the pieces were all set and then used the hypo-applicator to add the Weld-On. The first one I did was the clear, outside box, which you can see that I squirted a little too much Weld-On and got some staining. For the interior box I ordered 1/4” black acrylic, cut the pieces to size, cut the "teeth" and welded it together. I did a much better job on this one.

 

[Gabe]

I’m building an acrylic tank, for the first time, too and although I’m not a professional carpenter, I’ve made a lot of wooden projects.
The higher TPI count makes for a smoother cut, but it also means that a larger surface area is causing more friction/heat on the acrylic. I was cutting 1/2“ thick acrylic, so it had to be slow cuts, to avoid chipping. I ended up putting candle wax on the blade before each cut. It seemed to work because I had no issues with melting.
I‘ve also read and seen a video about roundover bit working fine on acrylic. I’m ordering the Novus stuff too.
I was able to use a regular hole saw to make the plumbing cutouts. I figured Fostner bits would generate too much friction.
So far I’ve only made the overflow boxes. I got the hang of using Weld-On 4 pretty quickly. I used painters tape, a dead flat surface and a square to make sure the pieces were all set and then used the hypo-applicator to add the Weld-On. The first one I did was the clear, outside box, which you can see that I squirted a little too much Weld-On and got some staining. For the interior box I ordered 1/4” black acrylic, cut the pieces to size, cut the "teeth" and welded it together. I did a much better job on this one.

Fantastic job so far! Makes perfect sense on not using forstner bits though. I drilled a glass tank a while back to use as a mixing tank, so I should be able to reuse that hole saw. I also just managed to open up the acrylic sheets I ordered today. I understand they are just running them through a saw like we would, but man their fence must be out of square by a lot (or else they were drinking on the job lol). Take a look at these four 12x24" cuts out of the box:

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Fantastic job so far! Makes perfect sense on not using forstner bits though. I drilled a glass tank a while back to use as a mixing tank, so I should be able to reuse that hole saw. I also just managed to open up the acrylic sheets I ordered today. I understand they are just running them through a saw like we would, but man their fence must be out of square by a lot (or else they were drinking on the job lol). Take a look at these four 12x24" cuts out of the box:

Is it only like that on one end, or an 1/8th proud the whole length?

 

[Gabe]

Is it only like that on one end, or an 1/8th proud the whole length?

That is with one of the 24" edges on a dead flat bench flipped on its side in a vice that is creating a 90 degree reference. More than anything its showing the inconsistency. Not really a big deal I guess. I knew I would have to do some work here or else I wouldn't have been posting in the DIY forum . That same 24" measured for reference:

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

That is with one of the 24" edges on a dead flat bench flipped on its side in a vice that is creating a 90 degree reference. More than anything its showing the inconsistency. Not really a big deal I guess. I knew I would have to do some work here or else I wouldn't have been posting in the DIY forum . That same 24" measured for reference:

That's unacceptable.... Crazy they can't make true 90* cuts

 

[mehaffydr]

Fantastic job so far! Makes perfect sense on not using forstner bits though. I drilled a glass tank a while back to use as a mixing tank, so I should be able to reuse that hole saw. I also just managed to open up the acrylic sheets I ordered today. I understand they are just running them through a saw like we would, but man their fence must be out of square by a lot (or else they were drinking on the job lol). Take a look at these four 12x24" cuts out of the box:

I would not use the hole saw from the glass you cut as that would be a diamond saw and I would bet that it will create way too much heat. It basically cuts with friction. You need a true Hole Saw that has teeth. A metal hole saw would be better as they typically will have more smaller teeth than a wood hole saw.
Also the Novus 123 works great a couple years ago a completly sanded down a 225 gallon tank and polished with Novus. It looked as good as new. The trick is to start with about 400 grit and slowly work to 2000 grit wet sanding. Then use the polish.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Track saws work great for truing up edges on acrylic.

 

[The Farmer]

You can use a regular wood blade move at a decent speed not to fast and not to slow, any router bit will work for acrylic, buy a pack of acupuncture needles from Amazon and put them in between the pieces your going to glue apply the Weldon and remove the needles one at a time you will end up with a perfect joint. As for the edges you can wet sand with high grit wet sand paper until fully polished

 

[Guns286]

I would not use the hole saw from the glass you cut as that would be a diamond saw and I would bet that it will create way too much heat. It basically cuts with friction. You need a true Hole Saw that has teeth. A metal hole saw would be better as they typically will have more smaller teeth than a wood hole saw.
Also the Novus 123 works great a couple years ago a completly sanded down a 225 gallon tank and polished with Novus. It looked as good as new. The trick is to start with about 400 grit and slowly work to 2000 grit wet sanding. Then use the polish.

I agree. I used a regular hole saw, which has the drill bit in the middle. You also don’t want to drill straight through. Let the hole saw cut in about half way, then flip the acrylic over and cut the other half. The center drill bit will help you line this up perfectly.
When starting I used a much thinner bit and drilled straight through, with a pice of scrap wood as backing. That way a hole was established and, for the parts that I was free hand drilling, prevented the bit from wandering.