Radions G4 pro turning my blue corals green

[Finhead]

No worries I was curious too that's why I asked LOL. but It's more complex than just that. Not only is the G4 more powerful (by almost an entire AI Prime), but they boosted the UV, and added a stronger violet. UV is extremely powerful, and hard on corals, especially from an LED (LED penetrates water better than any lighting source we've invented, by a significant amount) -- So the UV/Violet being boosted AND in a stronger fixture = significantly more power than measurable in just PAR / Wattage.

Great info right there, I always warn people not to raise there UV to much or too fast it can bleach/kill a coral pretty quickly.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I belive greening is an overdose.
The trick is , on what NM of Light is the coral overdosing.
As coral is too broad a term, like fruit, what specifically does that coral want (pur).
Under my Ai sol , I could green anything from acro to a ricordea.

Backing off the intensity (or peak time) helped in my SB tank, except for one particular acro.
In the Ai tank, I tried the same to no avail. I changed Lights and the greening stopped, so far anyway, as I’m also acclimating and trying Lower par intensity.

Looking at the ratio your using on the sliders is kinda misleading as it doesn’t show a linear representation of the light spectrum. Like a spectrometer would or we’d see on a spec sheet.

So, if your hitting the coral with 200 par of violet or 400 uv , there may be problems, but that’s only if the unit is actually capable of that.

And of course , other corals May not mind and not green.

The common thought on greening is too much light. Myself , I think it may be more correct to say too much of a specific light.

Myself, as I’ve run out of lighting combos, I’m gong to try potassium (another weird maybe cause). Why not really.

A question for the OP, are they by chance mostly the yellow, white and pink skins turning green?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Here’s one of my victims.
Other parts of the mother once had the whole thing have an overall greening.
Another was def too close to a jbj W/b led and was green on half the colony.

Not sure what to make of this.

 

[Rakie]

@saltyfilmfolks -- Hey Salty, OP is running the AB+ program, which is designed to mimic 8 Blue+ bulbs, and 2 ABS bulbs. I can't find the spectrometer value from BRS without watching the videos, but I can tell you it's the most widely used setting by miles. I would be surprised if less than 95/100 people used it -- It's pretty much as close as you can get to "the right setting for LED's" -- Which is why BRS has been mimicking "AB+" programs (and giving the public the settings) with a spectrometer for ALL of the LED brands out there. AI, Orphek, etc etc. As far as the lighting world is concerned, AB+ is the 'right' choice.

I'm weird though, I use the program WWC uses -- Which isn't AB+

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

@saltyfilmfolks -- Hey Salty, OP is running the AB+ program, which is designed to mimic 8 Blue+ bulbs, and 2 ABS bulbs. I can't find the spectrometer value from BRS without watching the videos, but I can tell you it's the most widely used setting by miles. I would be surprised if less than 95/100 people used it -- It's pretty much as close as you can get to "the right setting for LED's" -- Which is why BRS has been mimicking "AB+" programs (and giving the public the settings) with a spectrometer for ALL of the LED brands out there. AI, Orphek, etc etc. As far as the lighting world is concerned, AB+ is the 'right' choice.

I'm weird though, I use the program WWC uses -- Which isn't AB+

Thanks man.
If you come across that vid send it to me would ya? I’ll take a look.
It’s a Trippy problem

 

[mtraylor]

Potassium is good for blue colored coral BTW

 

[Rakie]

Thanks man.
If you come across that vid send it to me would ya? I’ll take a look.
It’s a Trippy problem

Just for you buddy!

So first problem -- After looking closely at all their videos, they have the spectrometer readings for the light systems at 100%, and for each individual LED color, BUT, they of course don't have the spectrum reading at the AB+ program, which most who've used it regard as the best LED lighting option out there... Of course that's the ONE thing they don't have a spectrometer reading of... sigh.

But, here are all the LED's individually, and then all of them together with the fixture at 100% intensity, with each channel also at 100%.

All LED's Without Diffuser

All LED's WITH diffuser

UV

Violet

Royal Blue

Blue

Cool White

Warm White

Green

Hyper Red

So what are the settings for the fabled "AB+" spectrum?

UV, Violet, Royal Blue, Blue -- 100%
Cool White, Warm White, Green, Red -- 24%

so since each of these graphs are individual, you can roughly guess... maybe... what the spectrum is sort of kind of almost vaguely like.

Because of course the graphs don't have data on the Y and X axis, so no clue what's being measured besides LED nm value.. No clue what "intensity" rating is at on the graphs.. So you can't truly approximate it.

Sorry, @saltyfilmfolks -- I tried, I couldn't find anymore specific information pertaining to the spectrometer readings for the AB+ Program -_-

 

[oreo54]

http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/ReefWholesale_CoralLab.pdf

looks somewhat like this.. though used red not photo red (shift the red hump)


NOTE from the paper..

schedule intensity set at 50% some adjustment may be needed

G3.................

 

[Reefer_222]

No worries I was curious too that's why I asked LOL. but It's more complex than just that. Not only is the G4 more powerful (by almost an entire AI Prime), but they boosted the UV, and added a stronger violet. UV is extremely powerful, and hard on corals, especially from an LED (LED penetrates water better than any lighting source we've invented, by a significant amount) -- So the UV/Violet being boosted AND in a stronger fixture = significantly more power than measurable in just PAR / Wattage.

Speaking of PAR, and PUR (which is still sort of vague), PUR is what corals can USE, PAR is just the total amount of light (including unused spectrum's). So an Actinic T5 for example is the lowest PAR bulb out there -- conversely, it's the highest PUR bulb out there. Meaning watt for watt, Actinic lights give more to corals than any other T5 bulb -- This is due to the UV/Violet range. This is why guys like Jason Fox run 100% Actinic T5 bulbs and Reef Brites. That UV/Violet is unmatched in coral health. This is what makes MH so strong, they have naturally higher UV in most of their bulbs than any non-actinic. They also have spikes in the red/yellow range that corals love (even the 20k radiums have this spike)

It's always more complex. Always. Nothing is ever 1+1=2, were always missing giant aspects of the equation, and must play retroactive detective.

Very informative. So I bought a Radion G4 pro and still trying to find an optimal setting for my sps tank. Twice my frags have bleached out, I would say due to high intensity maybe. Currently I am experimenting SPS Ab+ default template where UV and violet is also at 100%, Shall I decrease UV and violet ( My Radion sitting ard 6 to 7 inches high from the rim of the tank- fixed with the standard mount sold for Radion & tank depth is 24 inches and length is 30 inches. ) Radion is running at 30% intensity. Any modification I can do based on your experience?

 

[John3]

This rose coral used to have great red coloring. It was at the bottom of my tank and I had to pop it off and put it in a plug. I stuck it on my frag rack higher up and slowly it went from red to all green. I did also start dosing Red Sea colors abcd and I have some suspicions about that as well.

I’m going to move this back to the bottom and see what happens. I run a G4 with the AB+ schedule.

 

[Superlightman]

Hello did you solve your issue,i have same problem with the 5G,all yellow and pink coral turn green..maybe I should turn down violet and uv?