I run a modified SPS AB+ on Radion XR15w G4 Pros on all my tanks. Peak is the same as SPS AB+ (18,500K spectrum for 7 hours), but the ramp up/down times are pushed out a little.
On the 6x3x1' growout/frag tank I have eight XR15w (~12.5" from water line) with this profile:
On the Reefer 250 I have three XR15w (~8" from water line) with this profile:
Would it be possible to offer your lamp schedule here as a downloadfile? THX
For the first two years or so, I never had a problem maintaining the overflow water level at a specific level with the Red Sea diaphragm valve on the main drain and things were silent. However, for the last few months, I have had to make constant adjustments to the valve every 4-5 days because the water level would increase by itself and the noise from water trickling into the emergency drain became super annoying. I've cleaned the valve a number of times, but still had the same problem. I'm not sure why after two years I began to have an issue, but here we are.
So I decided to make the change to a Spears gate valve for the main full siphon drain. Normally something that should be a simple swap in a fish tank, but the Red Sea plumbing poses a challenge because it is metric.
So here's what it looks like now.
From what I've seen, most people have just taken the return connector part (part number 42221), getting a 3/4" threaded male adapter and wrapping the threaded end with 10-15 wraps of telfon tape to fit it into the metric fitting in place of the barb. For a number of reasons, I'm not comfortable with this solution.
So what I did was take a Spears 32mm to 1" transition union and glued the 32mm end over the outer part of the return connector which measures 32mm. I used PVC primer and cement. The plastic that the return connector is made out is an "unknown plastic" (exact words from Red Sea tech support), so using PVC primer and cement wasn't a sure thing that it would bond well, but it looks like it's holding up. No leaks have been seen and best part, tank is dead silent with water in overflow staying steady.
Here's my parts list
- Red Sea return connector part #42221 (remove barb before gluing - also be carful to not over do it on the cement, you don't want to glue the black screw nut since it's a tight fit)
- Spears 32mm to 1" sched 80 transition union
- Spears 1" schedule 80 gate valve
- 1" blue PVC pipe
Thanks!
). But after 20 minutes of trying different things out, I didn’t find anything so I figure the GFCI outlet was probably busted. I was lucky I had a spare GFCI outlet and changed it out in a few minutes and had everything running up again after 30-40 minutes after the problem started happening. So far so good and everything has been running for over 24 hours since I left for the “happiest place on earth.” Keeping my fingers crossed, but I definitely feel like the coral gods were looking over my shoulder because If the gfci outlet would have decided to pop 20 minutes later, I woulda been gone and most likely would have come home to at least a hundred different dead acros.
That's what I want my po4 and goes from .03 to 0. But my dam no3 I can not get up high enough to even register on my test kit.
No fuge. Just a skimmer that I dont wanna turn off because I want that oxygenation. I turned skimmer a tad more dry to see if that may help. I also mixed potassium nitrate. I dosed .25ppm this morning. Tested a couple hours later and it was still zero. So I added another 2ml which should be. 25ppm. And when I get home and test in morning I'll have an answer. Po4 was only 3ppb. But atleast it was there. But i want 2 to 5ppm nitrate for sps. Cant get it to show up anymore.
Have 11. I dont want more. Might have to Just dose no3!
