I agree with Bruce60 if you are going to do quarantine tank for fish you do need the Hanna Copper tester also.
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I have wondered this myself. It's the same thing with the API test. The API Calcium test is actually the only one out of all of theirs that I find not to be complete garbage. Bc it does get me pretty close to a ballpark idea of where my levels are but I always did wonder do I stop when the color changes to purple or blue? I thought it was just an API thing buy maybe not. Bc in the directions it's reads that the end point will be blue but in the diagram they show the endpoint color being purple. So idk. Just another reason why I love API so much ;RageI have salifert for my mg ca alk phos. My question is about the color change. If they start as pink and the final is supposed to be blue. I get this initial color change to a purplish hue. Do I stop there? Or give it one more drop to get to the blue final color
Every titration test is like that. You need to titrate to the end color. Typically, when you start to see the change (purple in this case), you add one more drop to get you there.but I always did wonder do I stop when the color changes to purple or blue? I thought it was just an API thing buy maybe not. Bc in the directions it's reads that the end point will be blue but in the diagram they show the endpoint color being purple.
Not so fast. You are assuming that a Falcon tube of water shipped across the world at room temperature and tested a week later will give you accurate phosphorous results. I would actually trust the Hanna here more.Just got an ICP test of my parameters in my tank water. I’m disappointed in Hanna. I currently have their Alk, calcium and ULR phosphate test kits. Alk is pretty solid. Calcium had me dosed up into the 600 range. The results were also all over the place not to mention all the tedious steps. Now the phosphate kit which I thought was reliable. I’ve been getting constant results of .04 ppm however my SPS corals were dying and I got a Dino bloom. After receiving my results, ICP showed my phosphate at .01. This was after I also tested the same water right before sending out my samples. My result was .08!!!! .07 difference.
I’ve literally been starving my tank of nutrients because I was relying on the Hanna ULR phosphate test kit. I’m heading out today to grab a salifert! Salifert kits have all been solid for me.
If you mean they are the only “reliable” test for PO4 that read the low range, that is one thing but they are not the only only test kits that can read as low as the Hanna, whether the Hanna or the other kits are more accurate than the other is up for argument.If you are going to make management decisions about your phosphate levels, then the ULR Hanna checkers are the only hobby test kits that read phosphate in a low enough range to be useful.
I wouldn't bother using the checkers for anything else, because other kits are cheaper and work easier and arguably better than the Hanna ones.
What other hobbyist phosphate kit will detect parts per billion phosphorous (0.003 parts per million phosphate).If you mean they are the only “reliable” test for PO4 that read the low range, that is one thing but they are not the only only test kits that can read as low as the Hanna, whether the Hanna or the other kits are more accurate than the other is up for argument.
What other hobbyist phosphate kit will detect parts per billion phosphorous (0.003 parts per million phosphate).
I've seen it a thousand times where someone thinks they have zero phosphate only to find out that it's just undetectable on their kit. They run the test on a Hanna ULR and see they have 0.03 ppm.
For our purposes, it's the same thing. You just have to convert it, and the conversion is easy. X 3 and move the decimal.You said phosphate not phosphorus, so to say Hanna is the only test kit to read the low range of PO4 is just wrong, most don’t measure in phosphorus but in phosphate, the phosphorus reading has to be converted into phosphate anyway to get a PO4 reading, they still cover the same range, whether they are as accurate is a different matter, some say the Hanna is not reliable either, but to say the Hanna is the only test kit to measure low range phosphate is not correct and misleading.
In your opinion the Hanna may be more reliable but that is not what you said.
For our purposes, it's the same thing. You just have to convert it, and the conversion is easy. X 3 and move the decimal.
What other phosphate test kit will read in 0.003 ppm?
Retested my water after receiving the result. .08 on my Hanna. Went to my LFS and purchased a salifert phosphate kit and it was .03. Take these results however you want. The fact that I had a Dino outbreak as well as my SPS dying leads me to believe the ICP test was accurate. If ICP isn’t reliable why do we send them water to test?Not so fast. You are assuming that a Falcon tube of water shipped across the world at room temperature and tested a week later will give you accurate phosphorous results. I would actually trust the Hanna here more.
I keep my tank at 0.03, no dinos and no SPS dying. There are threads from loads of people about ICP phosphate tests. Have a read of them and you will then understand why your icp result for phosphate is no good. Salifert phosphate test is not a reliable comparison. Buy your self a ULR phosphorus checker and try again. Also if you shake to hard you get bubbles in the sample and that will give you a slightly higher result.Retested my water after receiving the result. .08 on my Hanna. Went to my LFS and purchased a salifert phosphate kit and it was .03. Take these results however you want. The fact that I had a Dino outbreak as well as my SPS dying leads me to believe the ICP test was accurate. If ICP isn’t reliable why do we send them water to test?