Rate Hanna checkers from most important to ehhh maybe.

paul barker

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Retested my water after receiving the result. .08 on my Hanna. Went to my LFS and purchased a salifert phosphate kit and it was .03. Take these results however you want. The fact that I had a Dino outbreak as well as my SPS dying leads me to believe the ICP test was accurate. If ICP isn’t reliable why do we send them water to test?
I have no Dinos because I keep my mag around 1350 to 1400 ppm and .03 to .08 should not kill your sps I look at something else
 

tundraguy1106

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I keep my tank at 0.03, no dinos and no SPS dying. There are threads from loads of people about ICP phosphate tests. Have a read of them and you will then understand why your icp result for phosphate is no good. Salifert phosphate test is not a reliable comparison. Buy your self a ULR phosphorus checker and try again. Also if you shake to hard you get bubbles in the sample and that will give you a slightly higher result.
I have the Hanna ULR phosphate checker already. I lightly shake for 2 minutes for my results. I’m not buying a phosphorus checker from them as well since the original checker is off. Again if my water was at .04 like the original results showed I wouldn’t have SPS death or a Dinos outbreak.
 

tundraguy1106

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I have no Dinos because I keep my mag around 1350 to 1400 ppm and .03 to .08 should not kill your sps I look at something else
I just got my phosphate up to .08 (according to the Hanna checker) the day I sent my sample out. It’s 100% my nutrients and I upped my peak lighting hours. I only had about 3 hours of peak lighting due to a longer ramping cycle. I’ve upped that to 6 hrs.
 

sam2110

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I have the Hanna ULR phosphate checker already. I lightly shake for 2 minutes for my results. I’m not buying a phosphorus checker from them as well since the original checker is off. Again if my water was at .04 like the original results showed I wouldn’t have SPS death or a Dinos outbreak.
You are using the wrong tool for the job. There's a reason they make phosphate and phosphorus checker! You brought the wrong one for you application, simple as that. it like turning up with a hammer to drill a hole, Yes you will make a hole but it won't be the hole you need. In future maybe research before you buy
 

Rmckoy

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I have wondered this myself. It's the same thing with the API test. The API Calcium test is actually the only one out of all of theirs that I find not to be complete garbage. Bc it does get me pretty close to a ballpark idea of where my levels are but I always did wonder do I stop when the color changes to purple or blue? I thought it was just an API thing buy maybe not. Bc in the directions it's reads that the end point will be blue but in the diagram they show the endpoint color being purple. So idk. Just another reason why I love API so much ;Rage

Schitts Creek Comedy GIF by CBC
Count the drops and multiply x20
The colour change is hard to tell .... the purple to blue is close ....

I find the same with red sea cal .
Salifert is a huge difference .
 

tundraguy1106

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You are using the wrong tool for the job. There's a reason they make phosphate and phosphorus checker! You brought the wrong one for you application, simple as that. it like turning up with a hammer to drill a hole, Yes you will make a hole but it won't be the hole you need. In future maybe research before you buy
Ahhh so you insult me like I didn’t do my research prior. Nice. I also bought the Hanna calcium checker that had me dosed up to 600. Went and bought a salifert and now I’m steady at 465. Yes I read the directions and know how to use these kits. I’ve had my alkalinity tester show crazy varying results just by opening and using a new reagent. The checkers are not always accurate.
 

sam2110

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Ahhh so you insult me like I didn’t do my research prior. Nice. I also bought the Hanna calcium checker that had me dosed up to 600. Went and bought a salifert and now I’m steady at 465. Yes I read the directions and know how to use these kits. I’ve had my alkalinity tester show crazy varying results just by opening and using a new reagent. The checkers are not always accurate.
Mate there is just no talking to some people they always think that they know best..... funny how the most common fail with the calcium checker is people not using the correct water, most people find their tank is running less than the checker shows but in your case it was more? Hanna will replace your checkers if there is an issue with them. I would love to see some photos of your results compared with your Salifert test kits.
 

tundraguy1106

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Mate there is just no talking to some people they always think that they know best..... funny how the most common fail with the calcium checker is people not using the correct water, most people find their tank is running less than the checker shows but in your case it was more? Hanna will replace your checkers if there is an issue with them. I would love to see some photos of your results compared with your Salifert test kits.
So now I’m lying and need to prove what I’m saying... like what’s your deal? Why would I waste my time posting on this forum if I was lying?? You’re literally talking about yourself when referring to “knowing best”.

The calcium checker I’ve used my homemade RO water, store bought distilled water and then lab grade deionized water. All ended up with varying results. Maybe if you did your research on the Hanna calcium checkers you’d see many people have issues with them. I guess you’re just the guru to everything and never experience issues. How bout next time you save your insulting comments and allow people who are actually here to help others speak??
 

sam2110

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So now I’m lying and need to prove what I’m saying... like what’s your deal? Why would I waste my time posting on this forum if I was lying?? You’re literally talking about yourself when reefer to “knowing best”.

The calcium checker I’ve used my homemade RO water, store bought distilled water and then lab grade deionized water. All ended up with varying results. Maybe if you did your research on the Hanna calcium checkers you’d see many people have issues with them. I guess you’re just the guru to everything and never experience issues. How bout next time you save your insulting comments and allow people who are actually here to help others speak??
Haha, what ever you say buddy. Was not saying you was lying just maybe you are not doing it correctly... I do not know best and I do get random readings on my Hanna checkers but I always cross reference them with the Salifert and 90% of the time when I have had a bad reading it has been my fault. I do stick to the point that you should have brought phosphorus instead of phosphate checker.
 

tundraguy1106

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Haha, what ever you say buddy. Was not saying you was lying just maybe you are not doing it correctly... I do not know best and I do get random readings on my Hanna checkers but I always cross reference them with the Salifert and 90% of the time when I have had a bad reading it has been my fault. I do stick to the point that you should have brought phosphorus instead of phosphate checker.
Yes, I should have however I did find the posts on here that I read prior to buying this ULR phosphate checker where everyone was saying this one (HI774) was the one to get. The range goes from 0.00 - .9, which does cover what I need it for. I believe the + / - that n the one I have is .04. So all of that taken into account the checker could be right but my original point was that I have Dinos now (meaning zero phosphates). Now after bringing up my level to .08 on my tester and sending out an ICP test. Their results show .01. Dinos plus SPS death means low nutrients to me.
 

sam2110

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Yes, I should have however I did find the posts on here that I read prior to buying this ULR phosphate checker where everyone was saying this one (HI774) was the one to get. The range goes from 0.00 - .9, which does cover what I need it for. I believe the + / - that n the one I have is .04. So all of that taken into account the checker could be right but my original point was that I have Dinos now (meaning zero phosphates). Now after bringing up my level to .08 on my tester and sending out an ICP test. Their results show .01. Dinos plus SPS death means low nutrients to me.
Now your on the right track the +/- makes a big difference when testing for such small amounts.

With regards to your SPS I aim for 0.03 to 0.05 as long as it is sitting between that I'm happy. I do not try to over correct. I read in some of your other post about your SPS and some of it sounds like ALK burn, do you carbon dose?
 

tundraguy1106

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Now your on the right track the +/- makes a big difference when testing for such small amounts.

With regards to your SPS I aim for 0.03 to 0.05 as long as it is sitting between that I'm happy. I do not try to over correct. I read in some of your other post about your SPS and some of it sounds like ALK burn, do you carbon dose?
No, everything in the tank was stable however I didn’t realize my nutrients was sooo low and it was at that time I was trying to target 8.5 dkh dialing in my doser. I ended up spiking it to 9.5 which was when all my issues with the SPS started. So now my alk is stable at 7.9-8.0, but now I finally realized my phosphate issue. That has been corrected. It’s now a waiting and seeing game. .1 on my Hanna checker could be .06 (if My checker is in the (-.04) area) which is where I’m targeting. I also only had peak lighting from 1230-1530. So I increased that by 3 hours.

I run an aquatic life hybrid fixture with dual hydra 32’s. I run a couple hour ramp up and ramp down setting based off a guy who everyone uses (David Saxby) on the AI website. T5’s kick on from 1230-1830 now. I’m thinking 3 hours of peak lighting wasnt helping either. I added my light schedule. Tank is 4x2x2. Lights are 9.5” from surface. I’ll send my PAR map next.
 

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sam2110

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No, everything in the tank was stable however I didn’t realize my nutrients was sooo low and it was at that time I was trying to target 8.5 dkh dialing in my doser. I ended up spiking it to 9.5 which was when all my issues with the SPS started. So now my alk is stable at 7.9-8.0, but now I finally realized my phosphate issue. That has been corrected. It’s now a waiting and seeing game. .1 on my Hanna checker could be .06 (if My checker is in the (-.04) area) which is where I’m targeting. I also only had peak lighting from 1230-1530. So I increased that by 3 hours.

I run an aquatic life hybrid fixture with dual hydra 32’s. I run a couple hour ramp up and ramp down setting based off a guy who everyone uses (David Saxby) on the AI website. T5’s kick on from 1230-1830 now. I’m thinking 3 hours of peak lighting wasnt helping either. I added my light schedule. Tank is 4x2x2. Lights are 9.5” from surface. I’ll send my PAR map next.
It's sound like you are starting to get a grip on the issues you have had. I agree that 3 hours peek light is not enough I run 1 hour ramp up, 6 hours peek and 2 hours ramp down. Everything seems to like it that way.

With regards to your alk stability is key, I've had so many issues when alk has been out, and it's always been my fault.

With phosphate don't try and chase a set number just set yourself a range and allow it to be somewhere with in that.

I find in this hobby it's too easy for people to blame their equipment rather than themselves, nearly every time my corals have gone bad its been my fault. Always try and rule human error out before looking at the equipment.
 

tundraguy1106

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It's sound like you are starting to get a grip on the issues you have had. I agree that 3 hours peek light is not enough I run 1 hour ramp up, 6 hours peek and 2 hours ramp down. Everything seems to like it that way.

With regards to your alk stability is key, I've had so many issues when alk has been out, and it's always been my fault.

With phosphate don't try and chase a set number just set yourself a range and allow it to be somewhere with in that.

I find in this hobby it's too easy for people to blame their equipment rather than themselves, nearly every time my corals have gone bad its been my fault. Always try and rule human error out before looking at the equipment.
I’m looking into an alkatronic but I gotta save for it. Yeah this hobby never lets you down with issues. I’m gonna shorten my ramp up time. The reason I have the long ramp down time is because that’s when I view the tank the most. I might sell off this phosphate tester and calcium one and order the phosphorus one.

I appreciate your help. I apologize for coming at you before but I literally read for hours and hours on this forum and others prior to doing anything. It’s funny because I’ve never been much of a reader (books) but I’ll read all day about fish tanks! Lol
 

paul barker

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Ahhh so you insult me like I didn’t do my research prior. Nice. I also bought the Hanna calcium checker that had me dosed up to 600. Went and bought a salifert and now I’m steady at 465. Yes I read the directions and know how to use these kits. I’ve had my alkalinity tester show crazy varying results just by opening and using a new reagent. The checkers are not always accurate.
Hanna calcium test works is that stupid dropper if it drops more than 3 drops I reads to high I still keep my Salifert just in case I don't like the reading
 

tundraguy1106

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Hanna calcium test works is that stupid dropper if it drops more than 3 drops I reads to high I still keep my Salifert just in case I don't like the reading
I heard it now comes with a scientific pipette? Don’t know if that’s accurate. However if it is, they should send one to anyone with an older calcium test kit. I wasn’t spending another 50 on the pipette. I just bought a salifert.
 

sam2110

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I heard it now comes with a scientific pipette? Don’t know if that’s accurate. However if it is, they should send one to anyone with an older calcium test kit. I wasn’t spending another 50 on the pipette. I just bought a salifert.
They come like this now l, and yes it definitely helps.
 

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tundraguy1106

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They come like this now l, and yes it definitely helps.
Yeah that’s the one I have. That’s for the actual sample. It’s the step before when you add deionized water up to the 10 ml mark that can vary. Where you see the line and I see the line plus the curvature of the Cuvette all can lead to discrepancies.
 

Reef.

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Yes, I should have however I did find the posts on here that I read prior to buying this ULR phosphate checker where everyone was saying this one (HI774) was the one to get. The range goes from 0.00 - .9, which does cover what I need it for. I believe the + / - that n the one I have is .04. So all of that taken into account the checker could be right but my original point was that I have Dinos now (meaning zero phosphates). Now after bringing up my level to .08 on my tester and sending out an ICP test. Their results show .01. Dinos plus SPS death means low nutrients to me.

why do you say the 774 is the wrong checker?

It has an accuracy of -/+ 0.02.

Here is a quote from Hanna on this question...

For the most part is has the same accuracy statement. The HI736 ULR Phosphorus Checker has an accuracy statement of ±5 ppb ±5% of reading which equals 0.0153ppm phosphates. The new HI774 has an accuracry statement of ±0.02 ppm ±5% of reading. Since the new Checker has a resolution of 0.01ppm we had to round the accuracy up to be conservative in our representation of the instrument's performance. You can expect the same overall accuracy however
 

tundraguy1106

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why do you say the 774 is the wrong checker?

It has an accuracy of -/+ 0.02.

Here is a quote from Hanna on this question...

For the most part is has the same accuracy statement. The HI736 ULR Phosphorus Checker has an accuracy statement of ±5 ppb ±5% of reading which equals 0.0153ppm phosphates. The new HI774 has an accuracry statement of ±0.02 ppm ±5% of reading. Since the new Checker has a resolution of 0.01ppm we had to round the accuracy up to be conservative in our representation of the instrument's performance. You can expect the same overall accuracy however
I didn’t say that. I’m making the argument that my checker could be off. If you read all of my comments, it explains my experience.
 

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