Rate my PAR for mixed reef (mostly softies and LPS), which would you choose?

If your goal was best coloration and growth rate for LPS/softies, which settings would you choose?

  • A) 100% (first photo)

    Votes: 7 87.5%
  • B) 50% (second photo)

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • C) 36.5% (third photo)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    8

cab395

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I have a fairly simple question with a not-so-simple answer. My goal with my new tank is softies and LPS mostly with a couple of "easy" SPS at the top including Stylophora, birds nest, ect. My main goal is optimal growth and coloration of LPS and softies. The tank is lit by two AI Prime 16HDs. Given the above information, which option would you set your lights at? I have below a photo of the tank with the PAR level using an Apogee MQ-510. Of choices A (100%), B (50%), and C (36.5%), which would you pick and why? Feel free to vote in poll, comment, or both!

A)
Screen Shot 2022-05-31 at 2.57.27 PM.png




B)

Screen Shot 2022-05-31 at 2.59.24 PM.png




C)

Screen Shot 2022-05-31 at 3.00.43 PM.png
 

ZombieEngineer

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You are gonna want some more white in that mix. If these are Pros, 24% WW and CW, 20% red and green are ample for growth and coloration, while still keeping good fluorescence for viewing.

I like the blue spectrum too, so I night during my extended ramp down I will do a 1-3% with a similar spectrum to what you show here.

PAR wise specifically, 70% is about where you want to be for LPS and softies if you bump your white up a bit. Good target is 200-250 par at the highest point you plan to do LPS and 100-150 on the sand bed.
 
OP
OP
C

cab395

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You are gonna want some more white in that mix. If these are Pros, 24% WW and CW, 20% red and green are ample for growth and coloration, while still keeping good fluorescence for viewing.

I like the blue spectrum too, so I night during my extended ramp down I will do a 1-3% with a similar spectrum to what you show here.

PAR wise specifically, 70% is about where you want to be for LPS and softies if you bump your white up a bit. Good target is 200-250 par at the highest point you plan to do LPS and 100-150 on the sand bed.

Thank you, sorry I'm a bit confused. Not sure what you mean by "Pros" but these are Prime 16HDs, I'm not aware of a "Pro" AI prime. There is no WW setting, just CW. The 100% (A) option does have CW at 19%, and that is the BRS recommended settings for the AB+ spectrum
 

ZombieEngineer

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Thank you, sorry I'm a bit confused. Not sure what you mean by "Pros" but these are Prime 16HDs, I'm not aware of a "Pro" AI prime. There is no WW setting, just CW. The 100% (A) option does have CW at 19%, and that is the BRS recommended settings for the AB+ spectrum
Didn't see that right away. Thought these were radions and didn't zoom in all the way.

You probably do still want a bit more white and definitely more red and green. That looks subsyantially more blue than my tank at an actual AB+ spectrum. I found these on my radions helps bring out the fluorescence more.

This is what AB+ looks like on my new cube build (I adjust my camera white balance so the picture looks exactly like it does in person)
 

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PatW

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I would boost the cool white. Try about 20%. You can set red and green at the same. The cool white will add some PAR too. I think your PAR is fine for LPS and softies but for easy SPS you want to be higher than the MAX settings you show.

It is best to run LED lights at less than 100% because heat tends to shorten their lifespan. If it is in your budget, you might want to add another fixture to boost the PAR for the SPS.

But that is just my opinion and I am not that certain about it.
 
OP
OP
C

cab395

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It's interesting that a couple of you have mentioned more white, red, and green light. From a lot of my reading I thought most of the light spectrum most beneficial to corals is the bluer parts of the spectrum whereas the whites, reds, and greens are more likely to contribute to algae growth?
 

ZombieEngineer

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It's interesting that a couple of you have mentioned more white, red, and green light. From a lot of my reading I thought most of the light spectrum most beneficial to corals is the bluer parts of the spectrum whereas the whites, reds, and greens are more likely to contribute to algae growth?
Needs a balance of both. Only blue leaves you with dull corals. Way too much white leaves you with brown corals. Only blue minimizes algae growth at the expense of slower coral growth. Too much white increases algae growth too much compared to the coral growth benefit. Too much red/green oxidizes coral and limits peak par, not enough red/green reduces florescent pigments and red/green pigments.

It's a balance and common practice that seems to be the most effective is somewhere between a radion AB+ spectrum and a 14k halide spectrum.
 
OP
OP
C

cab395

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So doing something like the 100% with maxed UV/blues/violet and 20% white, red, and green should hit that sweet spot you think?
 

ZombieEngineer

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So doing something like the 100% with maxed UV/blues/violet and 20% white, red, and green should hit that sweet spot you think?
Good starting point anyway for ratio. Might need even more white than that but that will take months of trial and error to really dial in.

I would start overall intensity at a value your corals are used to now and then use the acclimate feature to get them to 70%. Over a much longer timespan (like a week at a time) you can ramp that up a couple percent a week until you dial in what percentage makes things worse instead of better. Then dial back until things maximize.
 
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OP
C

cab395

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So why 70%? Because at 100% that's 100-150 at sanded and 200-250 at top of rock work. And what are you using to guide when things are worse? Polyp extension/color/growth rates? Sorry for all the questions just want to get this right.
 

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So why 70%? Because at 100% that's 100-150 at sanded and 200-250 at top of rock work. And what are you using to guide when things are worse? Polyp extension/color/growth rates? Sorry for all the questions just want to get this right.
Because the higher white red and green will increase the par compared to what you measured before and you don't want to shock them right away. You may very well be able to get close to 100%, but best to get there slowly so you can see how they respond.

With LPS, you will see increased polyp expansion if they are happy with the amount of par. If you increase the par and see them retract often and get poor coloration, that's a sign to back off on the lighting.
 
OP
OP
C

cab395

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Thanks, I will work on this, appreciate all your help with this!
 
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OP
C

cab395

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Bump, would love some more opinions on the matter!
 

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