Recommendations on treating diatoms and green hair algae for a new tank now that Vibrant is out of the question?

jgalina

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Hello fellow reefers!

I'm new to the reefing hobby after a lifetime on freshwater and planted aquariums, I'm on my first steps here. So as scheduled, I'm going through the "ugly tank stage", diatoms all over my sand, rock, glass, and now green powder like algae on the glass and sand. I've read several recommendations, but I would like to read some of your successes on new tanks.

Thank you in advance!
 

SlugSnorter

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Boost CUC, keep up WCs, Maybe get a UV filter.


General tips: Make sure to always use RODI when mixing SW and topping off the tank. QT new additions. Reefcleaners is the best site to buy CUC from, and remember that the hobby moves pretty slow, and its better to wait than rush into adding something and end up with it dead.
 

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Hello fellow reefers!

I'm new to the reefing hobby after a lifetime on freshwater and planted aquariums, I'm on my first steps here. So as scheduled, I'm going through the "ugly tank stage", diatoms all over my sand, rock, glass, and now green powder like algae on the glass and sand. I've read several recommendations, but I would like to read some of your successes on new tanks.

Thank you in advance!
For algae- Reduce white light intensity and even hours of white lighting.
Is tank at or near window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?

Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the end to the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.

For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
 
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jgalina

jgalina

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Boost CUC, keep up WCs, Maybe get a UV filter.


General tips: Make sure to always use RODI when mixing SW and topping off the tank. QT new additions. Reefcleaners is the best site to buy CUC from, and remember that the hobby moves pretty slow, and its better to wait than rush into adding something and end up with it dead.
Thank you! I do run RODI water, still haven't added CUC because I didn't want them to starve so I believe it's now time to add a few and ramp up as they progress. Any recommendations for a UV filter for a Fluval EVO 13.5, I have the back chamber full with the skimmer, InTank chamber 2 and ATO and heater on chamber 3.

I really appreciate your reply!
 

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Thank you! I do run RODI water, still haven't added CUC because I didn't want them to starve so I believe it's now time to add a few and ramp up as they progress. Any recommendations for a UV filter for a Fluval EVO 13.5, I have the back chamber full with the skimmer, InTank chamber 2 and ATO and heater on chamber 3.

I really appreciate your reply!
ive used this in a waterbox 15 gallon peninsula. Keep in mind its not a 100% necessary thing, and the most important thing to maintain regular water changes and cleaning, as well as have some CUC. I would recommend some florida ceriths and some kind of nerite or trochus snails
 

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Hello fellow reefers!

I'm new to the reefing hobby after a lifetime on freshwater and planted aquariums, I'm on my first steps here. So as scheduled, I'm going through the "ugly tank stage", diatoms all over my sand, rock, glass, and now green powder like algae on the glass and sand. I've read several recommendations, but I would like to read some of your successes on new tanks.

Thank you in advance!

From what I’ve learned after 1.5 years, here is my impression, a blatant generalization but it guides my overall philosophy:

Freshwater is a box with water, fish, and plants. Yay!

Saltwater is the foundation of all life on Earth. As your tank matures, you will see a procession of many types of life competing for space on every surface, and especially for light.

You never really get rid of any of them. They simply get displaced by other life, depending on how you guide the system over time. Learn about each new thing that pops up, and how to put pressure on it if you don’t want it, or how to cultivate it if you do. This is one of the fun things about the hobby. Or if you’re not into this sort of dance, it might not be for you.
 

JoJosReef

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Hello fellow reefers!

I'm new to the reefing hobby after a lifetime on freshwater and planted aquariums, I'm on my first steps here. So as scheduled, I'm going through the "ugly tank stage", diatoms all over my sand, rock, glass, and now green powder like algae on the glass and sand. I've read several recommendations, but I would like to read some of your successes on new tanks.

Thank you in advance!
What kind of rocks and sand do you have? A good injection of biodiversity usually helps--getting some live rock to seed dry rocks, a bit of fiji mud to mix into your sand, etc. Extra points if the live rock comes out of the ocean.

Conches work great for your sand bed, and mine loved diatoms. Virgin nerites are awesome for the glass and they are really pretty with their shell patterns. Both astraeas and trochus have done well for me on rocks, but also a boatload of dwarf ceriths, because they are always working and get into the tiny spaces.

I would probably only use UV if you end up getting dinos, specifically proro. or ostreo. (not amphi.). But try not to let your nitrates and phosphates zero out to avoid dinos.

Diverse bacteria and CUC will get you through this part!
 

ElementReefer

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As for UV, I would personally hold off on it for now. It can be useful for controlling a stubborn bloom of bacteria, or especially dinoflagellates, but it also kills off the natural free swimming bacteria in the water.
 
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jgalina

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For algae- Reduce white light intensity and even hours of white lighting.
Is tank at or near window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?

Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit, although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
Diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the end to the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass.

For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
Thanks! I always use RODI water, the tank is near a window but receives no direct sunlight, so I guess the reflection is enough. I have some corals already so a 3 day blackout might not be ideal. Thank you for the recommendations, I believe I'll get on the CUC, keep up with the weekly water changes and keeping things nice and neat.
 

vetteguy53081

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Thanks! I always use RODI water, the tank is near a window but receives no direct sunlight, so I guess the reflection is enough. I have some corals already so a 3 day blackout might not be ideal. Thank you for the recommendations, I believe I'll get on the CUC, keep up with the weekly water changes and keeping things nice and neat.
You'd be surprised at the power of UV which will penetrate, shades ,blinds and curtains. Place a piece of black construction paper from walmart on the glass side that faces window and you will see a drastic reduction especially with algae.
 
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jgalina

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What kind of rocks and sand do you have? A good injection of biodiversity usually helps--getting some live rock to seed dry rocks, a bit of fiji mud to mix into your sand, etc. Extra points if the live rock comes out of the ocean.

Conches work great for your sand bed, and mine loved diatoms. Virgin nerites are awesome for the glass and they are really pretty with their shell patterns. Both astraeas and trochus have done well for me on rocks, but also a boatload of dwarf ceriths, because they are always working and get into the tiny spaces.

I would probably only use UV if you end up getting dinos, specifically proro. or ostreo. (not amphi.). But try not to let your nitrates and phosphates zero out to avoid dinos.

Diverse bacteria and CUC will get you through this part!
I have Fiji Pink from Carib-sea, my rock is fossilized corals, but they were dry. Hadn't heard if of Fiji Mud, will look into it. I will go looking for the CUC today after work, following the recommendations.

I will hold off on the UV, but if you have any recommendations of one for a Fluval EVO 13.5, that would be great.

Thank you!
 
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jgalina

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You'd be surprised at the power of UV which will penetrate, shades ,blinds and curtains. Place a piece of black construction paper from walmart on the glass side that faces window and you will see a drastic reduction especially with algae.
Thank you, I will.
 

JoJosReef

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I have Fiji Pink from Carib-sea, my rock is fossilized corals, but they were dry. Hadn't heard if of Fiji Mud, will look into it. I will go looking for the CUC today after work, following the recommendations.

I will hold off on the UV, but if you have any recommendations of one for a Fluval EVO 13.5, that would be great.

Thank you!
I used a Green Killing Machine from Amazon that I stuck to the back glass of the Evo at a 45 degree angle with the return pipe just out of the water and under the lid.


It did the trick for dinos, running 24/7 for a week or two. Had dinos twice. Ostreo. and proro., just a few amphid., but not enough to cause an explosion.

I now have a 10W universal that I got from IM as backup but haven't had to use it yet:


Fiji Mud is a bit pricy, but so is treatment-after-treatment-after-treatment for nuisance algae.

I think there are some other sand/mud supplements that come right out of the gulf, but I can't remember where.

In the end, I found bacterial diversity + CUC + a bit of elbow grease has worked the best. I also added some macroalgae into the display tank to help control nitrates and phosphates--codium works really well, and Botrycladia was growing great until I got a tux urchin.

Hope that helps!
 

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