Red Sea E170 max AIO mixed reef build - first reef tank
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RichardGovier
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Hi, great thread. I'm in the process of cycling my first ever marine tank an E-170. I want to add an ATO. Would you be kind enough to take some additional photos showing how its installed and how the level sensors are fitted. Thanks Richard
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kiswanson
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I used the Tunze osmolator. The pump IDs in a 10 gallon ato container in the cabinet. The tubing is held with a clamp and puts the RODI water into the rear compartment in the left side. The optical sensor and float valve are held into the right side (above the return pump) of the rear chamber using the supplied magnet. One thing to make sure to do once a week is wipe off the optical sensor with your finger to make sure no gunk has built up, and move the float switch to make sure salt creep hasn’t frozen the movement. Overall it has worked great for me.
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kiswanson
Active Member
One thing I’ve really realized as I’ve progressed in this hobby is just how much good flow helps the tank.
I now have the return pump with a VCA random flow generator nozzle, two MP10s on either side of the tank towards the back, and a Red Sea gyre on the right towards the top. I really love the gyre flow. I think all the flow is keeping the tank clean and my sps actually seem to be growing now, as opposed to dying (when my alkalinity spiked) or just surviving, which had been the rest of the time.
I definitely would have thought the current flow would be overkill when I first started, but now I see the benefit.
I now have the return pump with a VCA random flow generator nozzle, two MP10s on either side of the tank towards the back, and a Red Sea gyre on the right towards the top. I really love the gyre flow. I think all the flow is keeping the tank clean and my sps actually seem to be growing now, as opposed to dying (when my alkalinity spiked) or just surviving, which had been the rest of the time.
I definitely would have thought the current flow would be overkill when I first started, but now I see the benefit.
RichardGovier
New Member
I used the Tunze osmolator. The pump IDs in a 10 gallon ato container in the cabinet. The tubing is held with a clamp and puts the RODI water into the rear compartment in the left side. The optical sensor and float valve are held into the right side (above the return pump) of the rear chamber using the supplied magnet. One thing to make sure to do once a week is wipe off the optical sensor with your finger to make sure no gunk has built up, and move the float switch to make sure salt creep hasn’t frozen the movement. Overall it has worked great for me.
Thank you so much for taking the trouble to reply. I now understand and will get one on order. Again thank you, your thread is so helpful.I used the Tunze osmolator. The pump IDs in a 10 gallon ato container in the cabinet. The tubing is held with a clamp and puts the RODI water into the rear compartment in the left side. The optical sensor and float valve are held into the right side (above the return pump) of the rear chamber using the supplied magnet. One thing to make sure to do once a week is wipe off the optical sensor with your finger to make sure no gunk has built up, and move the float switch to make sure salt creep hasn’t frozen the movement. Overall it has worked great for me.
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kiswanson
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kiswanson
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The Red Sea reef wave 25. Currently run it at RS random low at 40% power forward 20 minute and 60% power reverse for 5 minutes
the upper left MP10 in the back is a 50% power using Reef crest for 16 hours during the day and lagoon for 8 hours at night.
the mid height right mp1 in the back is at 25% power also using Reef crest for 16 hours during the day and lagoon for 8 hours at night.
The one on the right is at a lower level because I don’t want to kick up sand and the gyre is also in the right
RichardGovier
New Member
Hi, sorry to trouble you, I'm for some guidance please and wondered if you wouldn't mind offering some guidance. I'm using Dr Tims One and Only fishless cycle in my Redsea 170. Now on day 11 (no fish added) parameters are, PH 8, NH3 1.5 and NO2 1. These numbers have been the same Constantly apart from NO2 that has slightly gone up in last couple of days from 0.5. Using salifest testing kit but also double checked with redsea kit. Do we do nothing and just wait? Or add more doc tims? Or add fish and more doc Tims? Also Salinity is at 1.021 and temp is 27 (it was at 26 as heater too small but now swapped and increased temp) be really grateful for any advice. Thanks
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kiswanson
Active Member
Basically more time. You can certainly add some more Dr Tims, as it hurt to add more bacteria, but time is the main thing. I would also aim for a higher salinity personally. I keep mine at 35 ppt which I think is 1.025 specific gravity
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kiswanson
Active Member
Basically more time. You can certainly add some more Dr Tims, as it hurt to add more bacteria, but time is the main thing. I would also aim for a higher salinity personally. I keep mine at 35 ppt which I think is 1.025 specific gravity
RichardGovier
New Member
Thanks, parameters now ammonia 0, nitrite 0 so will be adding two clown fish this weekend. ATO installed and working. Thanks for your advice.
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kiswanson
Active Member
Everything in the tank looks good except the bubble coral. It is the one coral that I can’t seem to grow. I think the main issue now is irritation from the sand sifter goby dropping sand. Moving to a new spot didn’t help. Basically dead, so I’m going to get rid of the bubble coral and admit defeat unless I try in a new tank or the sand sifter is no longer in the tank
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kiswanson
Active Member
Finally got my Tropic Marin All for Reef hooked up to the Neptune DOS. I had been hand dosing 5 ml a day and my alkalinity has decreased slightly to 7.9 dKh, so I’m going to up it to 7.5 ml a day. Goal is to be between 8-9. I’ll test again next weekend and see where I am. I’m still averaging a 20-30% water change every two weeks.
I did notice that my phosphates had increased substantially and I realized I hadn’t replaced the GFO in my media basket after removing it a week ago when I put in a new Chemipure elite. So I added 100 g Rowa phos. I will also hold off on using reef roids which I had restarted dosing a week or so ago. I’ll recheck the phos next weekend as well.
I did notice that my phosphates had increased substantially and I realized I hadn’t replaced the GFO in my media basket after removing it a week ago when I put in a new Chemipure elite. So I added 100 g Rowa phos. I will also hold off on using reef roids which I had restarted dosing a week or so ago. I’ll recheck the phos next weekend as well.
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kiswanson
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kiswanson
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kiswanson
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Got the Results of my first ICP analysis.
Overall almost everything looks good. My phosphates are a little on the higher side, which I already knew from my usual testing and from forgetting to replace my GFO after removing it two weeks ago. My iodine is a little low, so I will probably do a little gentle dosing.
The one I have to look up is silicon, which is high. I don't know exactly what that means for the tank, and what, if anything, I should do about it. Since the tank is looking good over all I will default to not doing much about it unless I read something compelling regarding it
Overall almost everything looks good. My phosphates are a little on the higher side, which I already knew from my usual testing and from forgetting to replace my GFO after removing it two weeks ago. My iodine is a little low, so I will probably do a little gentle dosing.
The one I have to look up is silicon, which is high. I don't know exactly what that means for the tank, and what, if anything, I should do about it. Since the tank is looking good over all I will default to not doing much about it unless I read something compelling regarding it
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kiswanson
Active Member
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