Red Sea Reefer XL 425 - The Upgrade

Leiph86

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Red Sea Reefer XL 425 - The Upgrade

Welcome to my newest build thread for my Red Sea Reefer XL 425 - (if you are looking for my original build thread with my Innovative Marine Nuvo 20 Gallon with custom stand, please use the following link: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/coming-back-nuvo-20-gallon.699896/). This will be documenting my journey of upgrading my 20 gallon tank to a Red Sea Reefer XL 425 in great detail as well as hopefully a space to foster conversation, innovation, and education (including for myself).

I first would like to shout out those who have inspired this build - as that is usually what leads many of us to take on that ‘bigger and better’ build. There are so many who have inspired me, but specifically these are the all stars for their level of detail and engagement with the community:
  • @Rudzbrewski - A newer build thread with an extremely detailed, responsive, and creative approach to some of the same plans I had. Additionally, they give credit to some of the same members I do below for inspiring them.

  • @Eight - A Red Sea 250 build that inspired both my 20 gallon with some clever ideas (such as using the Ikea trash can for ATO) and the aesthetic that really vibes with myself and my home.

  • @SuncrestReef - Another wonderful detailed thread and active community member that has I’m sure inspired many of us with their build. A very impressive manifold build on this one as well with UV (however, note this is based off the previous sump version).

  • @Broadfield - If you haven’t been on this build thread...are you really on Reef2Reef - amazing concepts, customization, and quite the journey. Check it out, you won’t regret it.

  • Honorable Mention - Bulk Reef Supply - These guys really do a lot to educate, inspire, and contribute to the community. Not saying other e-commerce sites do not, but the videos from BRS TV are top notch and have helped to educate me for years - and I appreciate revisiting topics as new information or different understandings unfold. Thanks for making me poor.
Please follow my journey and chime in, ask questions, and allow me the opportunity to see your build as well!
 
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Leiph86

Leiph86

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The Goals:

My primary goal will be to set up a mixed reef tank, primarily with LPS and SPS corals as well as diverse livestock. Additionally, I am trying to automate as much as I can so in the event I need to travel or take a weekend off out of town the tank should self sustain for a few days without direct need for supervision. For longer periods of time I’m hoping to keep it at a level where a friend can come over only once or twice really to just check in on things.

Speaking of automation, I do not want to confuse that with maintenance. I like to stay in tune with my pets and keep a close eye on them. I enjoy doing manual feedings and cleaning the tank (although I will add an auto feeder for when I travel). I think this is an important way to give our pets the attention and care they deserve and for us as hobbyists to keep an eye out for any early issues before something gets out of hand.

I am not 100% decided on sand or not - every tank I have put together I have included the 1” of sand, and mostly I enjoy the aesthetic of the look. I also know sand can house both good and bad down the road...open to thoughts or suggestions here from other members. Additionally, I am still working through the list of pets I wish to keep in the tank and am open to suggestions for reefers with intermediate experience.
 
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Leiph86

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The Back-Story & Decision on the Red Sea Reefer XL 425:

The back-story of my re-entry into the hobby is covered on my previous build and this thread is the upgrade after a year of my smaller tank. To anyone who is debating on whether to start off small or larger, GO LARGER. You will quickly outgrow a small tank and have bigger aspirations. I would recommend a smaller tank as a second tank as the knowledge, maintenance and difficulty are higher than larger tanks overall. This is exactly what happened to me, starting off small for lower costs is now leading me to spend more money for my larger tank to really achieve something beyond what a 20 gallon is capable of. Finally, just a note on the points below, this is my personal opinion and perspective based upon my needs, which may vary from your own.

I was between Red Sea 350, Red Sea XL 425, and Waterbox Marine X 110.4 and ultimately decided on a Red Sea Reefer XL 425 for some of the following reasons (for those maybe deliberating as I did myself):

  • Information & Reviews/Quality - Both brands have great reviews and are high quality, however, the Marine X is a new line from Waterbox and has little forum information/reviews on that specific line (as of late 2020/early 2021). I would say Red Sea is the winner in this category simply because of available content.

  • Refugium - The sump situation for the Red Sea tanks is more desirable simply because the v3 sumps for Red Sea include the option for a dedicated refugium whereas the Waterbox Marine X sump does not include this. For my situation, Red Sea wins here.

  • ATO - The Waterbox Marine X sump includes the auto top off chamber as part of the sump which was not desired for my build (Red Sea includes a separate stand alone sump that I will not be using). Again, I would consider Red Sea the winner if you are looking to use your own Auto Top Off container.

  • Plumbing - Easier to plumb Waterbox as they are already standard size (instead of Red Sea’s metric plumbing) - however, both tanks have a path forward to be hard plumbed even though Red Sea ends up being more expensive due to the need to purchase three Red Sea Part 42221. Waterbox is the winner here due to standard sizing, already including the gate valve, and not needing any ‘additional’ parts to make the bulkheads work.

  • Roller Mat Capabilities - My goal is to install a roller mat (either Clarisea or Aquamaxx) and it was important that I find information that allows me to determine if installation of these units was possible. I want to be clear - Red Sea wins here only because of available information and there were several tutorials/posts where I could find this. The Waterbox Marine X simply is too new to have this information widely available at this time. I think as a community we should start encouraging these companies to create sumps that support socks/media cups and sumps that support roller mats and give the customers the option to choose which one they want!

  • UV Sterilizer - This is a tough one - UV sterilizers are becoming more used but most tanks have difficulty including space for one underneath the stand when selecting appropriately sized models (in this case, 25 watts). For my situation, neither tank wins as it is difficult to find builds that include these installed in the sump area unless the unit is externally plumbed or a lower rated unit for these tank sizes and are smaller.

  • Cost - Generally I consider Waterbox to be the stronger of the two in this category, however, the Marine X line was not on sale for Blue Friday 2020 due to it being recently launched and I was able to find Red Sea on sale in December for approximately the same price as the non-sale Waterbox. Typically Waterbox wins, but sales can change that.

  • System Volume - At this point I was really between the Red Sea 350 and the XL 425 - based upon the cost difference I was leaning towards the 350 but then I remembered my situation with the 20 gallon I just dealt with - bigger is better. For the cost difference, and the fact I was able to get both on sale, the XL 425 made the most sense. However, to be fair, both Red Sea and Waterbox are comparable in this category.

Again, the above points are really my personal perception and opinion based upon what I wanted to accomplish with my build - I think on several of these points depending on what you might be looking for, there is the other side of a coin that could be argued. I think as a community we can do more to help provide proactive information on these types of decisions as this helps newer/growing hobbyists on their decisions in the future. AND - let's encourage constructive discussion even on my points above![/br]
 
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Leiph86

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The Build - Location:

Now to the good part - the build itself! Due to not wanting to install any additional support in the basement, overall budget for my build, and location, a 4 foot tank seemed like the most appropriate size. I have a total of 11 feet of wall in my dining room in which the tank will be centered and storage cabinets will be built to flank the tank for ATO, aquarium equipment. Additionally, I successfully used Ikea kitchen cabinets for my first build as a stand, and with the cost, ability to specifically build/select your exact needs, various depth and width sizes, etc. they seem to be the most logical item to purchase for my space as the storage cabinets to flank the tank. I’ve already ordered the items, however, they are on backorder until approximately March. I’ll put together a post specifically for those once they are available and picked up.
 
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Leiph86

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The Build - Equipment List (As of Feb. 2021):

Here is the meat and potatoes for what I will be putting together. Additionally, I’ve made some choices for some hardware very intentionally as I feel there needs to be more information on them and I’m willing to take a risk and share my experience (for example, the Aquamaxx AF-1 Roller Mat). The details and parts listing for my hard plumbing portion of my build will be in a future post.

Tank -
  • Red Sea Reefer XL 425 (White)
  • Hard Plumbing - Red and Grey (I went to Texas Tech…)

Filtration -
  • Protein Skimmer - Reef Octopus eSsence S-130 Internal
  • Roller Mat - Aquamaxx AF-1

Lighting -
  • Display - Red Sea ReefLed 90 (x2 or x3) w/ Mounting Arm
  • Refugium - Kessil a360x Refugium LED Grow Light w/Gooseneck (Got lucky and won this guy!)

Display Tank Flow -
  • Red Sea Reefwave 25 Pump with Controller (x2)
  • IceCap Battery Back-Up v2

Return Pump -
  • Maxspect Jump DC 8k Return Pump (2113 GPH)
  • IceCap Battery Back-Up v2
Heater -
  • Between BRS Titanium 300 watts (x2) or Finnex 300 watts - Will be using a 300 watt Eheim during the cycle until my decision is made.

Media Reactors -
  • Aquamaxx Fluidized GFO and Carbon Filter Media Reactor - XS (x2)

UV Sterilizer -
  • Aqua Ultraviolet Classic 25 Watt UV Sterilizer (Black, 2” Outlet, without wiper)

Auto Top Off -
  • Tunze Osmolator Universal 3155 Auto Top Off
  • Reservoir - TBD, but leaning towards the Innovative Marine 15 Gallon Hydrofill Reservoir

Controller -
  • Neptune Apex (BRS Special Edition)
  • Either Neptune Energy Bar or TP Link Kasa Wifi Power Strips

Dosing -
  • Kamoer X1 Pro Wifi Dosing Pump (x2 to start)
  • Aquamaxx Dosing Container DC-1 1.5 Liters (x2 to start)

Water Supply -
  • Bulk Reef Supply 5 Stage Premium Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System

Potential Future Upgrades & Projects -
  • Additional Neptune Modules (Leak sensor, flow monitoring kit for UV)
  • Water Mixing Station
  • Getting water from the basement to the main flow via Utility Pump and 100 ft. retractable hose
 
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Leiph86

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The Build - Roller Mat Installation:

WARNING!
This modification involves cutting into the silicone seals and removing glass panels which could lead to personal injury and/or permanent damage to the sump if you are not careful - consider yourself warned.


I’m going to level with all of you - this part sucks and you should plan a few hours to do this right. A big shoutout to @Rudzbrewski for one of the most detailed build threads on this part as well as some personal coaching during my attempt - hopefully I can help clarify this even further and provide some good documentation for comparison.

The purpose of this section is to detail the steps necessary to install a fleece roller mat as I personally don’t have the desire to change and wash filter socks or change out floss every couple days. In order to do this for the Red Sea XL 425 sump and likely the 350 sump (v3 specifically) you have to remove the filter/media cup insert section from the sump.

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The roller mat I chose was the Aquamaxx AF-1 Automatic Filter Roller and to my knowledge I might be one of the first build threads documenting this specific model install into a XL 425 system. I went with this roller mat primarily for cost as both the unit and the price per roll is significantly less than the Clarisea and in the past I have been happy with Aquamaxx quality. This particular unit does have a hanger, however, with the Red Sea v3 sump it doesn’t have the appropriate configuration to be hung from the sump wall (this part thankfully can be removed). Because of this I also purchased the IceCap Large Skimmer Stand 11” x 9” which fits perfectly in the section that is removed and has adjustable height. Here you can see generally the footprint of the unit before I started cutting as well as the hanging bracket which is too wide for the sump chamber (I rotated the unit in the photo below based upon how I would plumb the unit - if you rotate the hanging bracket to the right side and try to put the sump underneath the tank you will not have enough space):

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872CGudixRxWpfnoVyjnN6QcbLNL0j3-e6ddChWdUrB_6BZVVObueVg7JKniBMkZHO8HMaBiKIGfoUTNhdFQjecDcsGaUGmvCWIFxHJUMSzONAAfIMbSG1rX5KDiVOHn3fCDUyg



I recommend placing the sump on the cardboard lid from the Red Sea stand as it is large enough to provide a decent work space. I would recommend also the following tools:

Start with your Xacto Knife with a longer, flexible blade, by beginning to cut the front divider for the refugium baffle. Your cuts should be slow, with applied force ensuring your hands are clear of the direction of cutting. I used slight in and out motions while edging forward bit by bit to help ‘wiggle’ the knife forward. Because this is a plastic piece, once you free the top portion you should be able to pull on it gently to assist with separating it from the glass panel. Red Marks indicate cut paths:

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8QigLjtp-HlQYMXnIrmJKQtojJ6a6LkZK9Bsn2h4mcBfJ9YxYsVVf_5uzNMB9IVZKSRI6VALacDUL7VnllRlNfUlB5CPnUxFrnOYA6uKUpFX-YSg0FsTUQsljk9chp0TaP4hR6s


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Next, focus on the top plastic section designed for holding filter socks and the media cups - again focus on cutting one section at a time and ensuring that you have cut multiple times on all ‘connected’ parts. Be more careful if applying any leverage to this section to help separate as that will put pressure on parts connected to glass and could cause breaks.

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iBCiT05H6r3wJ9hd7CSbPUgKIvY2eIESIj62jYPwIO8U_5xHhZWFAapFOQr4532YpPP_yQRiYpCbUEN-2d-zad9UXEPop3oV8CXAYySgA0daCIM9v0MkeQcM6A1poGUQKpxBwIs


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After removing the sock and medial cup holder I would recommend targeting the right panel perpendicular to the front of the sump. I attempted to do the parallel panel to the front and the leverage needed to pull that piece out caused it to break and shatter. Again - BE CAREFUL! By going for the right back panel you should have sufficient ability to cut the sides and bottom of the silicone, just watch your cuts on the bottom as you near the front of the sump and the return chamber as you don’t want to damage the silicone in these parts. The pictures below are my failed attempt at removing the middle panel - again, I would not recommend this as the next step. Also, this is where you need to start being careful with long blades and the angle you are cutting as the blade may snap (as also shown below):

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YvhKuFUp7o4pRhAuc2uChE4AGr3QMd0ALpTomhlDfz-nphWbFyFMhm-_u1djK-u50gfZqKvanhQpc7N6uQydL7fLFc8ICeQcZRT4SbOhzQ7g8qzjaCWRpZyx5ivbxxP_o1M4ByQ


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Oops:

Dm3sQCacnWmITAh-jO_5koETxeZdjpl6SjNDxpS_898_ynaWOXKLXq2NUVPcpjJ83_1XVSt5XereqeXfywv43PgPao59iMmANSF8nU7JiOzs8vyKhmdtz7_gFRJr1wd8BjTOBsA



After both glass panels are removed this is the scene you should expect (minus one broken panel hopefully):

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And after clean up:
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n6HIzvd9cM95V9mKaMjc5pXWplYJ4V4Tw2F9pKB8oJANaTMpTI56UBaZG0N9-TKt1mP0d8GwVvp8_wDfH1OEd3PFcNlcycG24lhOxWkyREW1Mu298vjlTfteUt6ccUDQAnJZmWY



And here is the pictured skimmer stand added fitting like a glove:

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R1un3LUbBoHTe0rF3AJxHHnxAoufa2p3e6iw9QUmrDBlEc-eCl4JA7Cue7jv8CZGNbj2Jqj0xjJjrs-YhisywVhkdU2UufvUP5uaxZTM6d5hIp8Q8BqxsTQlUKdt4M8nsuGd6f0



And finally with the Aquamax AF-1 Fleece Roller Mat:

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c8Bip5Vr3lfRu5hFvZijHFcgKhlAfhTIPk19jHKiRAoJsotq-EuC3egAqd5ZH9qC3KjkO8xGe13vZ1iPIkoW2zmCfqFWpfpQgESYnXT8VDEDE156D1tbZ0iERo4SEZG-01cFe6A



I just want to recap this section by saying that it is intimidating to start this process but when you are struggling, stop, take a breath, and message someone on Reef2Reef - guidance and patience are the key to do this without damaging your equipment. Even then something could still happen so be aware of the risks associated with this process!
 

S.Pepper

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Really looking nice.

Going larger is always better. Asked me how i know. lol

RO/DI system: I recently added to my BRS 4 stage 75gpd ro/di. I had okay pressure (the minimum 50psi), but it still took me all day and night to make my water. I finally broke down and bought a booster pump and upgraded to the 150gpd system from BRS. I can now make a week's worth of water in 2 hours. It's not just the time, but the amount of water wasted.

GL on the new build. it looks like it's going to be awesome.
 

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The Build - Roller Mat Installation:

WARNING!
This modification involves cutting into the silicone seals and removing glass panels which could lead to personal injury and/or permanent damage to the sump if you are not careful - consider yourself warned.


I’m going to level with all of you - this part sucks and you should plan a few hours to do this right. A big shoutout to @Rudzbrewski for one of the most detailed build threads on this part as well as some personal coaching during my attempt - hopefully I can help clarify this even further and provide some good documentation for comparison.

The purpose of this section is to detail the steps necessary to install a fleece roller mat as I personally don’t have the desire to change and wash filter socks or change out floss every couple days. In order to do this for the Red Sea XL 425 sump and likely the 350 sump (v3 specifically) you have to remove the filter/media cup insert section from the sump.

W7VcL30NSAxVphP3rt0LsFAnKr-tfdBHRBxyd4qr2jW5Td_jF1-_u9zlj7i5sTO96gxcyV_7KpuOXpbFUs8K46lHwp5YKmBC3Ah864qjLgprDYiMmRnbPB8oR1Q80fITHBmaY5M


kkFMKvOBbKU1U6xLwujyvoFQY1BsP7TWPEt8GEYU53Fr6IwEHOWECCnMQFYmi1pvaIwv6VrsmAal9UZXfgy8vjTJN4HPRmWb0B-oc-64g6T7YbuoZk5Tq38mEL2Jiuvl9EMTM8M



The roller mat I chose was the Aquamaxx AF-1 Automatic Filter Roller and to my knowledge I might be one of the first build threads documenting this specific model install into a XL 425 system. I went with this roller mat primarily for cost as both the unit and the price per roll is significantly less than the Clarisea and in the past I have been happy with Aquamaxx quality. This particular unit does have a hanger, however, with the Red Sea v3 sump it doesn’t have the appropriate configuration to be hung from the sump wall (this part thankfully can be removed). Because of this I also purchased the IceCap Large Skimmer Stand 11” x 9” which fits perfectly in the section that is removed and has adjustable height. Here you can see generally the footprint of the unit before I started cutting as well as the hanging bracket which is too wide for the sump chamber (I rotated the unit in the photo below based upon how I would plumb the unit - if you rotate the hanging bracket to the right side and try to put the sump underneath the tank you will not have enough space):

kygiK0PtRFIXJ65Lvqh3iMFteAqoT6GE_p2rRNW44QceHbQhu8lxymN2D32yvIkgr7_kD--gJjeYUfGBq7bNLnhDcTCIlm8S4c2g2kY1lZNgYpNac5sb6crI9zWmb6Y2yRAOAGQ


18BYhJPBhbK0VRcYKa12NHo_zX2qpelAuOeF6rtT5SMv763jA3ifvwXjYVrT2zjfYwc5L2sSrhum04vAoBjnMX1_dZgYZJKWWnVtXaWx2Dw1W0q8dORWfVyfIXLyUfJ83jb5NsQ


872CGudixRxWpfnoVyjnN6QcbLNL0j3-e6ddChWdUrB_6BZVVObueVg7JKniBMkZHO8HMaBiKIGfoUTNhdFQjecDcsGaUGmvCWIFxHJUMSzONAAfIMbSG1rX5KDiVOHn3fCDUyg



I recommend placing the sump on the cardboard lid from the Red Sea stand as it is large enough to provide a decent work space. I would recommend also the following tools:

Start with your Xacto Knife with a longer, flexible blade, by beginning to cut the front divider for the refugium baffle. Your cuts should be slow, with applied force ensuring your hands are clear of the direction of cutting. I used slight in and out motions while edging forward bit by bit to help ‘wiggle’ the knife forward. Because this is a plastic piece, once you free the top portion you should be able to pull on it gently to assist with separating it from the glass panel. Red Marks indicate cut paths:

g2b_t2VZ_MdGCCnHSQrAZWSFjpIPtCEu053VRjCRndHRhlnJMI_u4jbURntqdAFH4M8AiNQdo_ekPCI4hXBZ1iIcOEP1MZw2Gkd9xA5sizMsZg0Cv8isHZzbrsQPY49EECJPl1U


8QigLjtp-HlQYMXnIrmJKQtojJ6a6LkZK9Bsn2h4mcBfJ9YxYsVVf_5uzNMB9IVZKSRI6VALacDUL7VnllRlNfUlB5CPnUxFrnOYA6uKUpFX-YSg0FsTUQsljk9chp0TaP4hR6s


a1MDYtz1vnrFJPCgG5x9bxG49ol6Eljj9noXANFK0zst3IdijE-9r0bzR44j00RCavpH7MsQ3hO9mOdNQxEwKr5Bws3W5q8hUndftFKQpGHwQxMJC2gmry0n7GPVlWIPym5RkM4


sQziub2PwIP_4INl6J44b_Be-H77q2FMiJ_l4mRwV3umB-fE3_OBZa3ERpU2MVM9quhLLadGqQ2sO6ziCJPmEIG3eRTnbPxLOyqO0O5bOgm7-05W5UZQz1cj73yNPUCLgv731ww



Next, focus on the top plastic section designed for holding filter socks and the media cups - again focus on cutting one section at a time and ensuring that you have cut multiple times on all ‘connected’ parts. Be more careful if applying any leverage to this section to help separate as that will put pressure on parts connected to glass and could cause breaks.

DdNN8SPB1vVLJcH0mG574TQdxcHDfyl3T-E8webAKQEABLM5-mrvgv2H9ohnn1Kh3GF4Cys0qrIKtwM7TFttaRi_FCIvG33HeT7C6IEwriqIgH96SxLBmgoHBoSXfx5-O7qxFBg


9YF0Ne0FwQdmy7-7VF2CKUWgIzSIsuYRtzQtgfjPpDND_DCaIFWO1nDCVZzYoX_qWiYQDH63_zzjZDro5lwTYVh6ozED8DTF54WL9A52fzVabtn04VhriOIAWZ1cojdmFMkDF7Q


oNzQ9lt6W6huCpxEb6Iy2Cu2uIypzRkrSEBrEihj07ah3SjAuqVjfJiBon70HXHPU7m3P7pClfUcL-vrtDubP0Dk7vhXGwlh6rMsFakJE8XOoJME4mMJyIJ7fgOCzP9a9IUlaHI


hZgkoJHKzfSafV6az22PuMgDFnaoLnF8JaLAyQkyrVr9VLWP7BlSbtP3V5_bBbNdYcXONczmdr_MHBj6KbqM2Vvp8UBBdybk_WNjXTf2IP7R7olypN4czZPdIsWtKfBLIaUsNmk


mWF__jsdjpk6i_DIMK_-Pcn2ICb2UoADtDR3V3yBVeHXF7zwewK_w3vxtMbYNwn3o03fsFYQ7Yhi7aJmC04Xfz5a8Rsz0sLbC_2web91yIQJ7AROKKvjzxYUpGAd1rYzkS9NKnc


iBCiT05H6r3wJ9hd7CSbPUgKIvY2eIESIj62jYPwIO8U_5xHhZWFAapFOQr4532YpPP_yQRiYpCbUEN-2d-zad9UXEPop3oV8CXAYySgA0daCIM9v0MkeQcM6A1poGUQKpxBwIs


aoY84U8BzKjfnpsfMw9Mt_d7Q76voDxO6IM0WssLu77MR7rSZq06L7e_iwiHRqfQe_VydaBTbh7ipV8yhSpYwntTLMMSVh5a93YvnDvN-0tyofmHTmmszqO5tqApXIZ3TnEHCbw


After removing the sock and medial cup holder I would recommend targeting the right panel perpendicular to the front of the sump. I attempted to do the parallel panel to the front and the leverage needed to pull that piece out caused it to break and shatter. Again - BE CAREFUL! By going for the right back panel you should have sufficient ability to cut the sides and bottom of the silicone, just watch your cuts on the bottom as you near the front of the sump and the return chamber as you don’t want to damage the silicone in these parts. The pictures below are my failed attempt at removing the middle panel - again, I would not recommend this as the next step. Also, this is where you need to start being careful with long blades and the angle you are cutting as the blade may snap (as also shown below):

ZuVtbJInO4xz-oRCqh261HFtfENThDy8P_k1_SPxmtkXwIJzLxGx_LZU3VCrgJFaGkBO4-NCIyoxQCxdy9LP0ZgtI3pizg87d_te803hd0U2kzJQN7qe_JmHQbEQghH23YPxlz8


YvhKuFUp7o4pRhAuc2uChE4AGr3QMd0ALpTomhlDfz-nphWbFyFMhm-_u1djK-u50gfZqKvanhQpc7N6uQydL7fLFc8ICeQcZRT4SbOhzQ7g8qzjaCWRpZyx5ivbxxP_o1M4ByQ


gtAcIgZHF7irtngE4qphFBDYym0HTFfHfbsIJS2-EJATkRDRNq7H4Es4Cbtyct6XSBoJKvJloLctMsf7D909NuAP-UM9qcsAmE_n3Hd153Of52S5wilhX7DTjEjUTtuojTN_PnE


Oops:

Dm3sQCacnWmITAh-jO_5koETxeZdjpl6SjNDxpS_898_ynaWOXKLXq2NUVPcpjJ83_1XVSt5XereqeXfywv43PgPao59iMmANSF8nU7JiOzs8vyKhmdtz7_gFRJr1wd8BjTOBsA



After both glass panels are removed this is the scene you should expect (minus one broken panel hopefully):

c0y8tuL7qw1o6CpM3OS4_zIJl_dwbn-1ACgVaak97fAyLLTYbOyMo8Oe8Wy4Fuw2Qr2d6m1VsHcVO7Z890lClL6AZGqepOzHIYI3ri91-xwmZzILxEPXr7NFfoBqQxqxurX7ZYY



And after clean up:
hMEnpsg_twI_gVQ5Cq7JsMlVEcQMi3VpcongXObfsP8jFGWGoUBkgL9sGLVs3Bm514cjgWsBrKAMUi8g2pYyOR1cqMcad-x3Q7G-FQSIReEE4fBzaGynzy3qqd5e411HaHMWsHA


n6HIzvd9cM95V9mKaMjc5pXWplYJ4V4Tw2F9pKB8oJANaTMpTI56UBaZG0N9-TKt1mP0d8GwVvp8_wDfH1OEd3PFcNlcycG24lhOxWkyREW1Mu298vjlTfteUt6ccUDQAnJZmWY



And here is the pictured skimmer stand added fitting like a glove:

nrkX5mubaaXvDy79UNV-p9HoITNigUhq4h4Fs1gPgxyD9HuxTrxO9utbDsAD-8rifoMbQt3KdocNtAmYr0MW9hftZ8_J1af6kcedOfUraFk628kyoLbZT4bEYtk5K4_i2uKFwt0


R1un3LUbBoHTe0rF3AJxHHnxAoufa2p3e6iw9QUmrDBlEc-eCl4JA7Cue7jv8CZGNbj2Jqj0xjJjrs-YhisywVhkdU2UufvUP5uaxZTM6d5hIp8Q8BqxsTQlUKdt4M8nsuGd6f0



And finally with the Aquamax AF-1 Fleece Roller Mat:

52rVyipVrt0o7AJE0QRBdz-N1gOFW5swBcJqfT2BEAH6ilry2rG4UJhmjsiIrWbADe0xLKuf8R1ISfVUISn_dExzuoqqIBf4Kj92wU_EephPiPK3RD_BnZFphfgZq2wzYQ5M9rI


c8Bip5Vr3lfRu5hFvZijHFcgKhlAfhTIPk19jHKiRAoJsotq-EuC3egAqd5ZH9qC3KjkO8xGe13vZ1iPIkoW2zmCfqFWpfpQgESYnXT8VDEDE156D1tbZ0iERo4SEZG-01cFe6A



I just want to recap this section by saying that it is intimidating to start this process but when you are struggling, stop, take a breath, and message someone on Reef2Reef - guidance and patience are the key to do this without damaging your equipment. Even then something could still happen so be aware of the risks associated with this process!
Looks like it came out great! As you stated, it’s an intimidating project, but takes more patience than skill. Are you happy with your results?
 
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Looks like it came out great! As you stated, it’s an intimidating project, but takes more patience than skill. Are you happy with your results?
Absolutely - very happy with the results, I need to scrape a bit of the residue and find a way to clean it from the glass safely.
 
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Really looking nice.

Going larger is always better. Asked me how i know. lol

RO/DI system: I recently added to my BRS 4 stage 75gpd ro/di. I had okay pressure (the minimum 50psi), but it still took me all day and night to make my water. I finally broke down and bought a booster pump and upgraded to the 150gpd system from BRS. I can now make a week's worth of water in 2 hours. It's not just the time, but the amount of water wasted.

GL on the new build. it looks like it's going to be awesome.
I'm actually considering this same upgrade because it takes FOREVER to make water and I like the idea of being more efficient.
 
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Stocking ideas?

A great question - I have a few months or so to figure that out while I finish the set up and cycle. Here is my working list, and I'm open to suggestions or ideas as I know there are fish/corals that I might not be aware of that will work and look great in a mixed reef:

Fish/Inverts:

I'm trying to purchase fish that are easier on the feeding spectrum and on the hardy side as well as not costing an arm and a leg - once the tank is established for at least a year I may consider adding one or two more expensive fish depending on the fish. For now, here is my list:
  • Clownfish x2
  • Starry Blenny
  • Six Line Wrasse
  • Royal Gamma
  • Yellow Watchman Goby
  • Blood Red Fire Shrimp / Peppermint Shrimp
  • Tang? See note below...
  • Invert Clean Up Crew
  • More suggestions welcome here

This is really this will be the first time I want a tang, however, I want to do my proper research to see if there is a smaller adult tang that will work for the 4 foot wide tank (as I know most tanks prefer large swimming spaces).



Corals:

For corals I learned an important lesson with my 20 gallon nano - don't get swept up in the Reef2Reef bidding until after I research what I want. I purchased a number of corals I wasn't prepared to take care of and that were extremely slow growers compared to others. Goals will be primarily photosynthetic corals, but I don't mind if they can have target feeding as a supplement to their 'light diets'. I also want medium to fast growers to fill out the tank (versus lots of little frags that will get crowded). Finally I love movement in the tank, so that's a big factor below.
  • Acans and Blasos (some of my favorite LPS)
  • Carpet Anemone or Toadstool Leather (just one since I know some can get quite large over time)
  • Open Brain Coral
  • Candy Cane or Trumpet Corals (undecided here)
  • Various Monti's for added depth and natural shelving
  • Various colored Birds Nest
  • (If bare bottom) - Zoas/GSP for 'carpet' effect
  • (If sand) - Zoas on isolated rock islands
 
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A great question - I have a few months or so to figure that out while I finish the set up and cycle. Here is my working list, and I'm open to suggestions or ideas as I know there are fish/corals that I might not be aware of that will work and look great in a mixed reef:

Fish/Inverts:

I'm trying to purchase fish that are easier on the feeding spectrum and on the hardy side as well as not costing an arm and a leg - once the tank is established for at least a year I may consider adding one or two more expensive fish depending on the fish. For now, here is my list:
  • Clownfish x2
  • Starry Blenny
  • Six Line Wrasse
  • Royal Gamma
  • Yellow Watchman Goby
  • Blood Red Fire Shrimp / Peppermint Shrimp
  • Tang? See note below...
  • Invert Clean Up Crew
  • More suggestions welcome here

This is really this will be the first time I want a tang, however, I want to do my proper research to see if there is a smaller adult tang that will work for the 4" tank (as I know most tanks prefer large swimming spaces).



Corals:

For corals I learned an important lesson with my 20 gallon nano - don't get swept up in the Reef2Reef bidding until after I research what I want. I purchased a number of corals I wasn't prepared to take care of and that were extremely slow growers compared to others. Goals will be primarily photosynthetic corals, but I don't mind if they can have target feeding as a supplement to their 'light diets'. I also want medium to fast growers to fill out the tank (versus lots of little frags that will get crowded). Finally I love movement in the tank, so that's a big factor below.
  • Acans and Blasos (some of my favorite LPS)
  • Carpet Anemone or Toadstool Leather (just one since I know some can get quite large over time)
  • Open Brain Coral
  • Candy Cane or Trumpet Corals (undecided here)
  • Various Monti's for added depth and natural shelving
  • Various colored Birds Nest
  • (If bare bottom) - Zoas/GSP for 'carpet' effect
  • (If sand) - Zoas on isolated rock islands
The XL 450 is aroudn 90g right? In a tank like that (someone correct me if i am wrong) you could keep either one yellow tang, tomini/bristletooth, kole tang, and I think a blue tang. There are some others, but I cant seem to remember them right now. I believe google says at least 88g for a powder blue tang but I cant see that being true.
 
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The XL 450 is aroudn 90g right? In a tank like that (someone correct me if i am wrong) you could keep either one yellow tang, tomini/bristletooth, kole tang, and I think a blue tang. There are some others, but I cant seem to remember them right now. I believe google says at least 88g for a powder blue tang but I cant see that being true.
Correct, I believe on the XL 425 the display is 88 gallons. I'm hesitant on a Yellow Tang as I know recently Hawaii had a legal change that is preventing the capture of the fish from the wild and the price has shot up extremely high. If I'm able to find one for a reasonable price that would be an option I think. I've head blue tangs are a little more difficult to take care of as well as needing a larger swimming space (I've seen some get huge)...but I will look into the Tomini/bristletooth and kole tangs - I appreciate the suggestions.
 
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Good morning all - I've made some progress on the plumbing, and have landed on a second iteration really trying to maximize the space, include shutoff valves for maintenance, find a way to plumb a UV that's too large to fit in the sump area with my other equipment...etc. A more detailed post will come once the final design is landed on but I'm looking for some input and discussion here for some struggles I'm having detailed below:

Iteration 1 -
  • Return pump was fully attached to hard plumbing
  • Manifold was short and would have reactors on the left side of the sump
  • No Unions on most piping
  • No ball valve for main return
  • No check valve for main return
  • UV ball valve located above the return pump
PXL_20210207_155714871.jpg


PXL_20210207_155808077.jpg


PXL_20210207_155729263.jpg



Here is what I realized as putting more of the build together based upon my bullets above:
  • Return pump was fully attached to hard plumbing - This would be extremely difficult for maintenance of the pump
  • Manifold was short and would have reactors on the left side of the sump - Removing skimmer cup would likely be difficult due to media reactor location and vice versa
  • No Unions on most piping - Would not allow key items to be maintained if plumbing is glued (eg. Roller mat)
  • No ball valve for main return - Backup redundancy to prevent reverse syphoning into the sump if pump is being cleaned
  • No check valve for main return - Still trying to figure how to incorporate this if possible...
  • UV ball valve located above the return pump - Piping was slightly contacting side wall of sump chamber which was not allowing the return pipe to connect flush with the bulkhead

Iteration 2 - With the issues/realizations described above I reworked a lot of the plumbing with the following modifications below:
  • Added ball valve at start of return line and immediately above the return pump - will add barbed connection to use soft tubing to connect return pump to return line which should allow for easier maintenance
  • Manifold has been extended to allow for media reactors to be centered on sump just to the right of the protein skimmer and right of the return chamber which allows for removal of both skimmer cup and media reactors
  • I plan to add an additional union on the manifold line once I confirm final position (section of pipe directly off of "T" connection)
  • Added union to main drain below gate valve (again to stop water coming in for maintenance)
  • UV ball valve moved to dry side of cabinet above the UV to ensure proper pipe length in the sump area
PXL_20210212_161847100.jpg


PXL_20210212_162022567.jpg


PXL_20210212_161930988.jpg


PXL_20210212_161814165.jpg


PXL_20210212_161953100.jpg


PXL_20210212_161907077.jpg



Remaining issues to solve and would love some thoughts or inputs from all of you:
  • Installation of check valve on main return - In order to accomplish this it appears I'll need to remove the two "T" branches (one for UV and one for manifold) and instead install a 4 way split which should allow for move space in the main return to install this unit. I'm going to pick up a cheap one from Home Depot/Lowes before buying a fancy red one. Is this even worth installing though?

  • Return Pump Capacity - with the UV, manifold, and return line, I'm not sure if my pump is going to underperform for the main display. Currently I have the Maxspect Jump DC 8K Controllable Return Pump (2113 GPH). Not sure if it is worth returning and upgrading to the 10k (2642 GPH) or 12k (3170 GPH) models. Suggestions on this since I won't have room for something like the Neptune FMK? I wanting to try this pump specifically due to provide review/details to the community since it's newer and the price is very attractive.

  • General impression on plumbing so far - issues that may be noticed with my dry fit or suggestions for improvement based upon your experience.

More work to be done this weekend with the cold weather so hopefully I can take some of your thoughts and input into consideration during that time!
 
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Over the weekend I cut some remaining pieces of test PVC to ensure my fit is appropriate - I also decided against installing the check valve on my tank as it would be difficult to incorporate and many pieces of feedback have maintenance concerns over time.

I laid out some rockwork and realized I only have about half of what is needed so I'll be purchasing more and working on the aquascape (and looking up inspirations)...

Finally as I began taking inventory of equipment I found out that the return pump BRS sent me was actually the incorrect one so I'll get that corrected today.

Pictures to come of the 'final' plumbing concept but please if you come across this feel free to comment on any suggestions or thoughts prior to me starting the gluing process!
 

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Hey there! I have the opportunity to jump on purchasing a 425 XL. I had a quick question, where did you buy that baffle for the refugium. Additionally are you going to purchase or have purchased a lid ?
 
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Hey there! I have the opportunity to jump on purchasing a 425 XL. I had a quick question, where did you buy that baffle for the refugium. Additionally are you going to purchase or have purchased a lid ?
Thanks for the question @FrenchieTang - the Red Sea XL 425 with the v3 sump includes the baffle as part of the sump kit already. If you don't plan on modifying the sump the baffle has two positions it can be put in. If you plan on adding a filter roller as I have, you end up removing one of the baffle threads. A really good way to see what I'm referring to is to google the Red Sea XL 425 v3 Sump PDF manual which shows the measurements, parts included, as well as the two baffle positions.

For your second question I ordered the Red Sea DIY net cover and will be installing Neat Feeding portals into the cover as well. Another member I followed took an approach of using two smaller sized Red Sea net covers but I had already ordered the specific model for the XL 425.

Plumbing is ready to be glued this weekend and I'll post some progress pictures once it's glued and cured as well as my final parts listing for any who wish to duplicate efforts.
 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

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