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I also have the 750 v3, so if you have any questions please feel free to message me directly on R2R.Following
I have the 750 v3 that I’m setting up
Will do thanksI also have the 750 v3, so if you have any questions please feel free to message me directly on R2R.
Thanks! Fixed.Just FYI, video link is private.
Yeah, there was a double "oh sh$t" moment there. First the sale here in the states, then the release of the updated product line.i follow this thread (posts) with great interest. I “ordered” a REEFER XXL 625 last weekend, with the order being confirmed on Tuesday and with delivery early next week. Stocks of the XxL 625 didn’t quite materialise because Red Sea is switching over to the 625 G2. The confirmed Tank is the 625 G2.
Between ordering and getting a Tank delivery “in motion”, I had plenty of time to consider if I had made the right choice. I have access to all the Red Sea manuals, drawings and other RS info. There is also a great many threads discussing Red Sea Tanks, the cabinets and any potential issues with gaps appearing between the Tank and the top of the cabinet e.g. observed with the “paper test”.
I observed that the range of Tanks that would fit in my Sitting Room have changed over time. RS have made changes which improve the product and seek to minimise the amount of issues (reducing their costs) until what we now have. My selection considered the overall size: 425, 525 or 750 Tank widths and the available space (long wall, divided in half with a fireplace and with existing furniture on the non Tank side). Whilst I could fit any of the widths, I settled on the 525 Tank length but ordered the 625 for the additional width and height. But, not before having downloaded all the manuals, drawings and figuring out what has changed and the differences.
Although I convinced myself that the XXL 625 was the right Tank, I have ended up with buying the 625 G2. In the UK the prices for the G2 increased by a small amount and the XXL (R3, G1) reduced. The G1 to G2 changes didn’t justify the price difference (for me) and RS listed differences which apply across the board but which were (mostly) already in place on larger versions.
525, 625 and 750 Tanks and cabinets are mostly more similar than different between G1 (aka R3) and G2. Like all companies, RS change their products based upon issues but only make changes where the additional costs are justified. These changes show up as obviouse things Tanks (dual outlets, 2 return pipes, diaphragm valves) etc. but also subtle (but sometimes important) changes.
The most significant change on 525 was the addition of a brace in the middle of the 525 cabinet on the G2 version. Any issues found with early 750 and bigger Tanks required RS to add a metal brace in the middle of the sump compartment so that the Tank cabinet has support spanning the front over middle of the Sump and the dividing wall between Sump and the Chiller cabinet. The 525 has same capacity but width heights were altered (slightly).
The drawings for the 525 R3 show a revised Sump layout but without a brace or a “brace kit”. The 525 G2 has a brace over the middle of the Sump. For all the parts of the cabinet all the P/N are unchanged except for the brace and the front kick board being black/white rather than a black and white separate version. This surprised me because if it is deemed necessary to add the brace on G2 then what about existing customers of R3, G1 Tanks. It may be that the change in width/height cause the change to be implemented and not because of Tank sagging (returns etc.).
The 750 Tank and Cabinet are similar except a brace lit was offered to 750 owners and became standard with the 750 R3 version. The G2 version continues with the metal brace. Looking back, you do wonder how a Cabinet could be designed with only the Sump/Chiller divider providing support at the front?
Similarly, the XXL 625 had a brace kit that became standard on the 625 R3 and this is carried over to the G2. Only the kick board being black and white vs a separate black and white versions changed. I think RS packages the doors/sides with the Tank and the cabinet is boxed separately so that the same Cabinet can be provided for both black and white versions?
The R3 changes is mostly about improvements in the Sump layouts. The XXL Sump (I was most interested in) has the “same layout” and siize as the newer G2. What changed, was not having a fixed section for the Socks and the removal of the front slot so that the dividing wall no longer has two positions. On the RHS there is no glass wall for the RHS slot. I look at these changes as being for the benefit of RS e.g. as a cost reduction. Similarly for the 525 and 750 R3 Sumps.
Red Sea make a “big thing“ out of the change to a removable Sock area so that a ReefMat can easily be installed. It is certainly true that (for me) the idea of having to cut way the silicone and remove glass on the. XXL 625 R3 so that the ReefMat can be fitted. Especially as I have seen (and like) the ReefMat in my LFS.
I didn’t like the idea of cutting a new Tank, especially as this becomes a “one way street”. Cut the Sump and you cannot revert to using Socks again. Sell the Tank and the ReefMat is no longer an option. Even so I still preferred the cost saving of the older XXL 625 R3. Because…
Regardless of choosing the RS ReefMat or Clarisea (or similar) the cut away of the R3 Sumps isn’t required and the benefit (to me) don’t justify making the change. With the 625 G2 that I have ordered, I do have the “benefit” of the plug n play Socks removal and so the older XXL 625 R3 has (for me) no real disadvantage. Because…
Red Sea provide a Product FAQ for the ReefMat that show how it can be added to existing R3 Sumps (or earlier versions). The same layouts should also apply to G2 Tanks (same size and layouts).This also applies to most of the bigger Tanks including 525 and 750. Why ignore the benefits of the G2? Because…
Without a Protein Skimmer and ReefMat, the R3 Sumps have the RS Reservoir initially over the Sock are and close to the pipework/valve. Adding a ReefMat means either cutting out the existing Sock Dividers (or removing it if it is G2). Another option is simply to position it to the left of the sock area. If it replaces the Sock location, then it also sticks up above the Socks area and the RS Reservoir has to be moved (or removed).
If you are using the ReefMat (or similar), then you had to move the RS Reservoir. More than likely, you will use a Protein Skimmer. Adding the Protein Skimmer requires that the RS Reservoir is removed if it was already moved to the LHS. Removal of the RS Reservoir means that you also have to find a new location and Red Sea didn’t provide a shelf/supports in the Chiller compartment. If it is placed on the base of the Chiller Cabinet then an pumped OTA is needed (and worst case case a barrel outside the Cabinet is required).
The Red Sea Hardware ReefMat FAQ provides two options for most Red Sea Tanks including 625 but also 525 and 750. Option 1 requires removal of the Socks Compartment and giving up the RS Reservoir that sits above it after installing the ReefMat and where a Skimmer is also in the Sump.
Option 2 is the most interesting (and for me beneficial) choice. It doesn’t require cutting the Socks area (on pre G2 Tank) and it accommodates the ReefMat, Skimmer and Reservoir. There is a small area that s a “dead space on pre G2 Tanks, but the advantage overwhelmingly trumps the disadvantage of either cutting the Socks area or going without the RS Reservoir, IMHO. The common layout of R3 Sumps should mean that the same Option 2 can be used for my own 625 G2 Tank.
FWIW, the Red Sea configuration wizard suggests an RSK-900 and ReefMat 1200. The layout shows the RS Reservoir removed. Only when you look at the FAQ, do you see the option of keeping all three components. I opted for the 600 skimmer for the size of tank and the ReefMat 500 because these are big units and Sump space is at a premium. The combined “working” width of 600 skimmer and ReefMat 500 is 12cm (5”) narrower than the RS suggestions. Overall the revised layout in the G2 versions doesn’t (to me) justify the extra cost. That said, I’m trying to justify the additional expense incurred and the best thing (so far) appears to be better circulation with dual return outlets.
Yeah, the overflow lid is pre-etched to cut that slot out for a light. I found that after 6 months the lid started to warp a bit along the sides (just a head's up).
I actually added a15-gallon external RO reservoir that I run into the Red Sea ATO with the Neptune ATK kit. Gives me just over 22 gallons of RO which should last about 1.5 weeks (check out my build thread if you want to see how I set it up).
If you check out my build thread I indicated which ABS components you'll need to retrofit the ReefMat to your 750. I'm embarking on the preliminary main overflow pipe cut and glueing later today.Here we go. Of the two mounting options I'm going with option #3. Kinda scared.