Red Sea XXL 750

blaxsun

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Yes, the corners on some models are now reinforced with triangular supports (same as the 750 v3 and up). I don't know if any models below the 750 had these reinforcements prior to the G2 changes.

I think there are a few reasons for the corners, but scraping is probably one of them.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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I knew I was going to have trouble getting this down in a timely manner. Juggling so much right now. Lemme get caught up chronologically here before I double back to chat about some things.

Since my last post was about the EcoTech mounts, here's what I did to deal with the fact that the overflow cover could no longer fit, which led to a large algae garden in the overflow:
Overflow cover adjustment.

Then for cycling half of my rock was live rock from TBS (the other half was Life Rock). I had to pick it up from the airport. It barely fit in my hatchback! Here's a picture of the first box I opened:

IMG_6804.jpg


The barnacles and clams were intense. Some of the rocks were completely covered.

It's been about five weeks since I added these rocks. Since then I'd say 2/3 of the barnacles and clams died/were eaten, which was not unexpected.

There were loads of starfish, they're still around and have had a lot of babies.

Found six crabs. Five are still around, they're filter feeders -- I put one in the sump fuge. One was large and hairy and (I think) took a number of chunks out of my Elegance coral. Got that one out with RODI water dunk.

Had a nifty nudibranch but I haven't seen him in a couple weeks so he might no longer be with us. I've watched it being spit out of a fish's mouth twice. Maybe its luck ran out?

Tons of creepy worms that swim (???) around in the water column more often than I'd like to picture in my head when I'm reaching in for whatever.

Additionally, this is the first live rock I've ever had that didn't come with a Mantis shrimp. Pretty cool.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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OK, I should mention some mishaps along the way. They were all my fault. Well, mostly. They all stemmed from poor ATO management.

Right off the bat, I am horrible at "managing" manual ATO activities. Set an alarm or three? That's where I started. Where I'm left is with the fact that I cannot ever attempt to manually fill a reservoir with water coming from my RODI unit. No joke, I mini-flooded TODAY because I continued multi tasking after shutting off the alarm, and I'd previously unplugged the stupid Neptune display that plays an annoying song that tells me my water is overflowing because I couldn't figure out how to make it stop playing another annoying song for I don't even remember.

Don't be me. My excuse this time is that this will be the last time this happens because once my mini cable extensions arrive (tomorrow) then I will be able to plug in the optical sensors and solenoid for the ATO reservoir and sleep ever-so-easier.

These issues have had deleterious impacts. Salinity took a huge noise-dive once when my ATO sensor didn't register and the Red Sea sump reservoir, which I have gone back to using with a replacement floater valve, overflowed and kept dumping in water fresh water. I think something is awry with my Avast setup. I've already replaced the pressure monitor but it continues to lose pressure. Monitoring this carefully.

Also had a related, significant calc/alk drop that took some time to recover from.

Somewhat related to mishaps -- I said I was going to double back to chat about a couple things. One is the flow and water level in my sump. Couple weeks after I shared the photo of water levels in my sump I monkeyed with the stock Red Sea overflow valve and ended up in a crazy water sucking, river rafting noise situation that I heard remotely on my webcam. When I was finally able to get back here and address the situation, which took some time, my flow was no longer going over the sponge/wall of the return, but going through the sponge. I'd tried to get the flow into this state before to no avail. It was a happy accident, but reminded me to not try and "fix" something that isn't broken. I didn't need to monkey with that Red Sea valve. I was literally thinking "it's not perfect, I could do better." Dumb.

This mishap also highlighted the fact that I would never be able to successfully maintain a tank that I am around part time. Without Arlo & Neptune I'd be screwed.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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i follow this thread (posts) with great interest. I “ordered” a REEFER XXL 625 last weekend, with the order being confirmed on Tuesday and with delivery early next week. Stocks of the XxL 625 didn’t quite materialise because Red Sea is switching over to the 625 G2. The confirmed Tank is the 625 G2.

Between ordering and getting a Tank delivery “in motion”, I had plenty of time to consider if I had made the right choice. I have access to all the Red Sea manuals, drawings and other RS info. There is also a great many threads discussing Red Sea Tanks, the cabinets and any potential issues with gaps appearing between the Tank and the top of the cabinet e.g. observed with the “paper test”.

I observed that the range of Tanks that would fit in my Sitting Room have changed over time. RS have made changes which improve the product and seek to minimise the amount of issues (reducing their costs) until what we now have. My selection considered the overall size: 425, 525 or 750 Tank widths and the available space (long wall, divided in half with a fireplace and with existing furniture on the non Tank side). Whilst I could fit any of the widths, I settled on the 525 Tank length but ordered the 625 for the additional width and height. But, not before having downloaded all the manuals, drawings and figuring out what has changed and the differences.

Although I convinced myself that the XXL 625 was the right Tank, I have ended up with buying the 625 G2. In the UK the prices for the G2 increased by a small amount and the XXL (R3, G1) reduced. The G1 to G2 changes didn’t justify the price difference (for me) and RS listed differences which apply across the board but which were (mostly) already in place on larger versions.

525, 625 and 750 Tanks and cabinets are mostly more similar than different between G1 (aka R3) and G2. Like all companies, RS change their products based upon issues but only make changes where the additional costs are justified. These changes show up as obviouse things Tanks (dual outlets, 2 return pipes, diaphragm valves) etc. but also subtle (but sometimes important) changes.

The most significant change on 525 was the addition of a brace in the middle of the 525 cabinet on the G2 version. Any issues found with early 750 and bigger Tanks required RS to add a metal brace in the middle of the sump compartment so that the Tank cabinet has support spanning the front over middle of the Sump and the dividing wall between Sump and the Chiller cabinet. The 525 has same capacity but width heights were altered (slightly).

The drawings for the 525 R3 show a revised Sump layout but without a brace or a “brace kit”. The 525 G2 has a brace over the middle of the Sump. For all the parts of the cabinet all the P/N are unchanged except for the brace and the front kick board being black/white rather than a black and white separate version. This surprised me because if it is deemed necessary to add the brace on G2 then what about existing customers of R3, G1 Tanks. It may be that the change in width/height cause the change to be implemented and not because of Tank sagging (returns etc.).

The 750 Tank and Cabinet are similar except a brace lit was offered to 750 owners and became standard with the 750 R3 version. The G2 version continues with the metal brace. Looking back, you do wonder how a Cabinet could be designed with only the Sump/Chiller divider providing support at the front?

Similarly, the XXL 625 had a brace kit that became standard on the 625 R3 and this is carried over to the G2. Only the kick board being black and white vs a separate black and white versions changed. I think RS packages the doors/sides with the Tank and the cabinet is boxed separately so that the same Cabinet can be provided for both black and white versions?

The R3 changes is mostly about improvements in the Sump layouts. The XXL Sump (I was most interested in) has the “same layout” and siize as the newer G2. What changed, was not having a fixed section for the Socks and the removal of the front slot so that the dividing wall no longer has two positions. On the RHS there is no glass wall for the RHS slot. I look at these changes as being for the benefit of RS e.g. as a cost reduction. Similarly for the 525 and 750 R3 Sumps.

Red Sea make a “big thing“ out of the change to a removable Sock area so that a ReefMat can easily be installed. It is certainly true that (for me) the idea of having to cut way the silicone and remove glass on the. XXL 625 R3 so that the ReefMat can be fitted. Especially as I have seen (and like) the ReefMat in my LFS.

I didn’t like the idea of cutting a new Tank, especially as this becomes a “one way street”. Cut the Sump and you cannot revert to using Socks again. Sell the Tank and the ReefMat is no longer an option. Even so I still preferred the cost saving of the older XXL 625 R3. Because…

Regardless of choosing the RS ReefMat or Clarisea (or similar) the cut away of the R3 Sumps isn’t required and the benefit (to me) don’t justify making the change. With the 625 G2 that I have ordered, I do have the “benefit” of the plug n play Socks removal and so the older XXL 625 R3 has (for me) no real disadvantage. Because…

Red Sea provide a Product FAQ for the ReefMat that show how it can be added to existing R3 Sumps (or earlier versions). The same layouts should also apply to G2 Tanks (same size and layouts).This also applies to most of the bigger Tanks including 525 and 750. Why ignore the benefits of the G2? Because…

Without a Protein Skimmer and ReefMat, the R3 Sumps have the RS Reservoir initially over the Sock are and close to the pipework/valve. Adding a ReefMat means either cutting out the existing Sock Dividers (or removing it if it is G2). Another option is simply to position it to the left of the sock area. If it replaces the Sock location, then it also sticks up above the Socks area and the RS Reservoir has to be moved (or removed).

If you are using the ReefMat (or similar), then you had to move the RS Reservoir. More than likely, you will use a Protein Skimmer. Adding the Protein Skimmer requires that the RS Reservoir is removed if it was already moved to the LHS. Removal of the RS Reservoir means that you also have to find a new location and Red Sea didn’t provide a shelf/supports in the Chiller compartment. If it is placed on the base of the Chiller Cabinet then an pumped OTA is needed (and worst case case a barrel outside the Cabinet is required).

The Red Sea Hardware ReefMat FAQ provides two options for most Red Sea Tanks including 625 but also 525 and 750. Option 1 requires removal of the Socks Compartment and giving up the RS Reservoir that sits above it after installing the ReefMat and where a Skimmer is also in the Sump.

Option 2 is the most interesting (and for me beneficial) choice. It doesn’t require cutting the Socks area (on pre G2 Tank) and it accommodates the ReefMat, Skimmer and Reservoir. There is a small area that s a “dead space on pre G2 Tanks, but the advantage overwhelmingly trumps the disadvantage of either cutting the Socks area or going without the RS Reservoir, IMHO. The common layout of R3 Sumps should mean that the same Option 2 can be used for my own 625 G2 Tank.

FWIW, the Red Sea configuration wizard suggests an RSK-900 and ReefMat 1200. The layout shows the RS Reservoir removed. Only when you look at the FAQ, do you see the option of keeping all three components. I opted for the 600 skimmer for the size of tank and the ReefMat 500 because these are big units and Sump space is at a premium. The combined “working” width of 600 skimmer and ReefMat 500 is 12cm (5”) narrower than the RS suggestions. Overall the revised layout in the G2 versions doesn’t (to me) justify the extra cost. That said, I’m trying to justify the additional expense incurred and the best thing (so far) appears to be better circulation with dual return outlets.
Yeah, there was a double "oh sh$t" moment there. First the sale here in the states, then the release of the updated product line.

My current setup is a large protein skimmer in the main area and a small fuge in the skinny fuge area. I'm pretty torn here. I got the internal RODI reservoir/float valve up and running again because I needed it for anything longer than two days. But the ReefMat is also a priority. Going to have to come up with a solve there sometime in the near future.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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blaxsun

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Yeah, the overflow lid is pre-etched to cut that slot out for a light. I found that after 6 months the lid started to warp a bit along the sides (just a head's up).

I actually added a15-gallon external RO reservoir that I run into the Red Sea ATO with the Neptune ATK kit. Gives me just over 22 gallons of RO which should last about 1.5 weeks (check out my build thread if you want to see how I set it up).
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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Yeah, the overflow lid is pre-etched to cut that slot out for a light. I found that after 6 months the lid started to warp a bit along the sides (just a head's up).

I actually added a15-gallon external RO reservoir that I run into the Red Sea ATO with the Neptune ATK kit. Gives me just over 22 gallons of RO which should last about 1.5 weeks (check out my build thread if you want to see how I set it up).

I have a 12g external reservoir as well, shown elsewhere. Using It solo was working for a bit, but the evap time has way slimmed down. After two days the external reservoir alone is dry. I'll be able to test internal/external when I leave tomorrow. I'm concurrently running a Dos AWC which has made testing this stuff a challenge.

I can fit a larger, slim reservoir in the closet to the right of the tank where I have the Dos pumps. I think it was around 20g -- I have to look and get on that really soon. Like today.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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It took a solid day to get from where I was in the "too much stuff to hide" video to the somewhat better state in this video:
Somewhat better

Crucially, I was able to get all Neptune gear, plus controllers for the skimmer and heater, all within the stock cabinet. No more stuff on the left, stuff on the right business.

Fast forward to today. It was in the mid-80s in the Dunes. I do not have a chiller. My plan was to keep the room AC at a solid temp. The tank is in the coldest room in the house. Built partially into a sand dune, the temp stays remarkably consistent in here. But I cannot control the AC in the room via wifi. The only thing I can do remotely is monitor the room temp.

When I'm away, being able to dial into at least one of these units in case something needs adjustments appeals to me. My very first tank crashed due to fan burnout and me being in Yellowstone without phone/internet. My brother was tasked to monitor the tank. Since he couldn't get a hold of me when the crash occurred he attempted to replace all of the livestock before I returned. Thankfully my awesome LFS was like, "hey man, you can't put all of that stuff in at once, so what gives?" They talked him down.

I mention this because space in the cabinet is now at an all-time premium. Plus I'll need a shorty energy bar because I'm amped out on the two I have.

While writing this post I ordered I ordered a JBJ 1/4 hp chiller and Sicce SDC 3.0 pump. Priorities always be changing.

IMG_7338.jpg
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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It feels like so much has changed in my crazy life since last posting. Definitely kicked the ball further down the field, tank-wise.

So here are a couple videos of the current state of things:
My favorite bit in the build update is when you see exposed wires in the foreground as I describe something less interesting in the background. The wire is the temperature probe for my heaters. I accidentally cut it! And then I freaked out because the wires are so tiny they're practically invisible. Nevertheless, I got it going again shortly thereafter. And a replacement is on the way.

Things currently in the works:
  1. ATO reservoir auto-refills. I'm planning on getting this partly up and running tonight. Top and bottom optical sensors are installed, solenoid is installed. But I'll need to have my pump powered on as well, and given my blown Energy Bar (see video #1) that will not be possible this evening.
  2. Permanent solution for water changes. I'm going to install a second RODI filter in the adjacent bathroom, which is where my mixing tank is. I'll need to run the return out to the tank, which I'd already determined to be somewhat impossible for me to do alone due to the cinder blocks in the walls.
  3. Reefmat exploration. It's in the mail now. We'll see what my options are. If I get #1 working above then I can easily abandoned the internal ATO reservoir.
  4. Install a UV sterilizer somewhere inside the stand.
 

blaxsun

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Here we go. Of the two mounting options I'm going with option #3. Kinda scared.
If you check out my build thread I indicated which ABS components you'll need to retrofit the ReefMat to your 750. I'm embarking on the preliminary main overflow pipe cut and glueing later today.
 
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frank-lloyd-reefer

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Thanks! I ended up completing it early early this morning. I didn’t have the sump installation kit but I did pick up a couple exacto-like blades. Having a bendy blade is pretty crucial, as it needs to be pushed all the way the silicone seams. I’ll post some pics later today.
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

  • I have used reef safe glue.

    Votes: 98 88.3%
  • I haven’t used reef safe glue, but plan to in the future.

    Votes: 6 5.4%
  • I have no interest in using reef safe glue.

    Votes: 4 3.6%
  • Other.

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