Red X + Dino X for important Cyano infestation

[RedMantaro]

Hi,
I have a cyano infestation for a long time (> 1.5 years) , My NO3 and PO4 were always very low and difficult to test with normal home test kits.

Last ICP test shown 0.05202 mg/l of PO4, the NO3 was around 2.5ppm (home test kit)
I made a test with Triton n-doc , all was green (TOC, TC TCO2) except the Tnb (Total Nitrogen) was in red with 1.3mg/l and the standard point is at 0.4mg/l .
Please note that this test was made after deciding to feed more and reduce the operation time period of the skimmer to increase PO4 and NO3 intentionally.

I already tested the following treatments without success:

1. Daphbio anti-cyano
2. KZ anti-cyano
3. chemiclean red slime remover
4. Columbo Mycosidol

I also tried to feed more , increase the flow and the turnover , reducing light ...
I am also adding bacteria and have tested several brands without success
My skimmer is oversized SC1660 normally for 1100 to 1400 liters, I have a tank with 660 liters (175 gallons) with the sump. Then I am stopping it for 4 hours each day after feeding.

I have changed also my salt (was using Red Sea Salt CoralPro) for Tropic Marin Pro-reef.
I am using a Balling method (3 parts) and I have stopped adding trace elements more than 9 months ago.
Today, I am using RedX , and I would like to know if I can use Dino X after the treatment if the cyano is still present.
It's not clear in the documentation if you can run Dino X after Red X and if Dino X will be efficient against a cyano outbreak.
How many times do I need to wait after the last dosage of RedX ?
Do I have to dose Rebiotic between RedX and DinoX ? or after DinoX treatment ?

photo of cyano : tank view and microscope (I tried with what I have)

Thank u for your help and advice.

 

[EvanDeVita]

You didn't list removal... have you tried removing as much as possible before waterchanging/dosing?

 

[Nick Steele]

Have you tried a blackout (depending on your corals)?

I just went through a Dino outbreak followed by cyano and I did a blackout for 3 days and it got rid of the Dino’s and 70% of the cyano. Afterwards I did a 30% water change to get the rest of the cyano and nothing has come back yet. All corals are doing well beside my 2 sps frags that were declining due to the Dino’s already before the blackout.

 

[RedMantaro]

Water changes between 10-15% every week with siphoning sand bed and cyano mainly.
I made also some extra siphoning with sockets and fine filtration once a week to break down the cyano film on the substrate allowing me to eliminate the red slime without changing the water.

I never tested blackout, I am afraid that the corals will not survive 3 days of night.

 

[EvanDeVita]

Water changes between 10-15% every week with siphoning sand bed and cyano mainly.
I made also some extra siphoning with sockets and fine filtration once a week to break down the cyano film on the substrate allowing me to eliminate the red slime without changing the water.

I never tested blackout, I am afraid that the corals will not survive 3 days of night.

Blackouts always have worked for me. Try taking out the corals you're afraid of losing most and then do a blackout. If you've had this problem for years, you should be trying everything short of a total reset.

 

[Nick Steele]

I never tested blackout, I am afraid that the corals will not survive 3 days of night.

I think it comes done to how stable the corals are before a blackout.

I just finished a 3 day blackout for Dino’s and cyano. I have 4 sps and a handful of lps and softies.

Sps during blackout
2 sps (monti spongodes and a digi) didn’t mind it at all. My pink lemonade frag that was doing excellent before the blackout has some stn maybe 1mm or so from base and a few small branches. It’s been 5 days and it’s already grown the base flesh back and starting to recover on the branches. My rainbow Millie on the other hand was stn’ing before the blackout due to the Dino’s and it was maybe 20% gone before blackout and 70-80% gone after black. But hasn’t lost anymore flesh over the last 5 days so I’m hopeful.

Lps/softies during blackout
My acans absolutely loved the blackout and are super puffy now! Frogspawn and hammer are starting to open back up. Trachy is still loving life! Blastos are opened much fuller after blackout. Zoas are being finicky some are open while others are closed (had this before blackout as well). Gsp and Xenia are strong as ever as well.

 

[EvanDeVita]

I think it comes done to how stable the corals are before a blackout.

I just finished a 3 day blackout for Dino’s and cyano. I have 4 sps and a handful of lps and softies.

Sps during blackout
2 sps (monti spongodes and a digi) didn’t mind it at all. My pink lemonade frag that was doing excellent before the blackout has some stn maybe 1mm or so from base and a few small branches. It’s been 5 days and it’s already grown the base flesh back and starting to recover on the branches. My rainbow Millie on the other hand was stn’ing before the blackout due to the Dino’s and it was maybe 20% gone before blackout and 70-80% gone after black. But hasn’t lost anymore flesh over the last 5 days so I’m hopeful.

Lps/softies during blackout
My acans absolutely loved the blackout and are super puffy now! Frogspawn and hammer are starting to open back up. Trachy is still loving life! Blastos are opened much fuller after blackout. Zoas are being finicky some are open while others are closed (had this before blackout as well). Gsp and Xenia are strong as ever as well.

how about the dynos/cyano?

 

[RedMantaro]

how about the dynos/cyano?

I continue the Red X - @Fauna Marin treatment (4th Day) still one and after 6 days of waiting.
I don't see any change for the moment, the Cyano is still growing...

 

[Nick Steele]

how about the dynos/cyano?

I’m on day 6 now and I’m starting to cyano and possibly Dino’s again. At a much smaller scale and I’m due for another water change tomorrow so I’ll clean it up again. Lights just turned back to 100% so I might try to acclimate for two weeks again starting from like 60%.

 

[EvanDeVita]

have you consulted anyone about your light intensity? could it be too high? also, most dinos thrive in low nitrates, and cyano thrives in higher nitrates so something is off

 

[RedMantaro]

unfortunately, I don't have access to a PAR meter.
I have 4 GHL mitras lightbar 110 cm running at 80%
When reading specs of GHL the intensity is medium

 

[Fauna Marin]

HI usually such outbreaks are the reason for specific limitation in some Trace and mikroelements.
Its not part of the Light or always nutrients, So long this limitation will not removed you cannot work with products on a long time successfully , As first you should made an ICP , then send this here and we will support you , Then check the Website https://www.faunamarin.de/en/knowledge-base/
There is exactly explained which elements are important and why
The next is that DinoX is not the right way to remove that. It works against specific Dinoflagellates and not against bacterias like Cyanos are. You can get a good ICP Test over. Www.icp1999.com. If you have it please post here again and we will support you to remove this issue
rgds

 

[RedMantaro]

Thx, I will perform a new ICP test and let you know the results