Reef Keeper Lite just crapped out on me (heater control)

[OriginalUserName]

I've had this thing for about 2 months and after some PH probe issues I've been pretty happy. Today I started hearing an alarm for high temp. I assumed it was my fuge light pumping a little too much heat into the tank but after poking around it's the RKL itself.

Somehow the outlet for the heater is still "on" despite the temp prob reading above the set point and reading high enough to trigger the alarm. It's not a probe issue as the probe is still reading correctly and I have the device setup to default off so it's not a connection issue. I rebooted the system and it's doing the same thing. Thankfully the internal thermostat on my heater kept things from getting into the red zone. I even tried setting the outlet to 50 degrees and it's still trying to power the heater.

If I hadn't been home and if the heater was set too high (or had no thermostat) I hate to think about what might have happened. I guess the RKL will be going to simple timer usage (if I can trust it for that even). Fortunately I have an apex on the way for my new tank build so for now I'll use that to run my cube. I'm not happy.

 

[Flippers4pups]

I've had this thing for about 2 months and after some PH probe issues I've been pretty happy. Today I started hearing an alarm for high temp. I assumed it was my fuge light pumping a little too much heat into the tank but after poking around it's the RKL itself.

Somehow the outlet for the heater is still "on" despite the temp prob reading above the set point and reading high enough to trigger the alarm. It's not a probe issue as the probe is still reading correctly and I have the device setup to default off so it's not a connection issue. I rebooted the system and it's doing the same thing. Thankfully the internal thermostat on my heater kept things from getting into the red zone. I even tried setting the outlet to 50 degrees and it's still trying to power the heater.

If I hadn't been home and if the heater was set too high (or had no thermostat) I hate to think about what might have happened. I guess the RKL will be going to simple timer usage (if I can trust it for that even). Fortunately I have an apex on the way for my new tank build so for now I'll use that to run my cube. I'm not happy.

Scarry isn't!? I don't have a aquarium controller, but I do run a inkbird controller for my heaters. Been reliable so far. Knock on wood!

 

[n2585722]

Which channel do you have controlling your heater? What is the wattage of the heater?

 

[OriginalUserName]

Which channel do you have controlling your heater? What is the wattage of the heater?

I'm using channel 3. It's 100watts.

 

[n2585722]

That should not be an issue then. That output has a maximum 330 watt limit at 110 volts. That said I would not go over 200 watts on it. It sounds like the issue is that channel on the power bar failed. CH3 uses a triac as the switch. CH2 and CH3 use a traic with a 3 amp limit and CH1 and CH4 or relays and have a 8 amp limit. The total limit of the power bar is 15 amps. As a word of caution always use heaters that have their own themostats that you can set a couple of degrees above the setting on the controller. Another way would be to use another heater controller and use the controller as a backup set a couple degrees above the heater controller. I would do this regardless of which controller you use. Heater overheating a tank is one of the most common failures of equipment. Also it is a good idea to split the heater to two or more heaters with their own control, like 2 50 watt heaters in your case. That way if one gets stuck on it gives you more time to react before it gets to a dangerous point.

 

[OriginalUserName]

That should not be an issue then. That output has a maximum 330 watt limit at 110 volts. That said I would not go over 200 watts on it. It sounds like the issue is that channel on the power bar failed. CH3 uses a triac as the switch. CH2 and CH3 use a traic with a 3 amp limit and CH1 and CH4 or relays and have a 8 amp limit. The total limit of the power bar is 15 amps. As a word of caution always use heaters that have their own themostats that you can set a couple of degrees above the setting on the controller. Another way would be to use another heater controller and use the controller as a backup set a couple degrees above the heater controller. I would do this regardless of which controller you use. Heater overheating a tank is one of the most common failures of equipment. Also it is a good idea to split the heater to two or more heaters with their own comtrol,like 2 50 watt heaters in your case. That way if one gets stuck on it gives you more time to react before it gets to a dangerous point.

It's annoying that it failed "on". And yeah, I got lucky never having a heater fail by itself before and I'm very glad I have one with it's own thermostat.

 

[Sarah24!]

Hello,

I’m curious if it would be just easier to not use an apex, or whatever that thingy is. That is just scary and too risky for my own liking but that’s just me. I’m theory I guess my two heaters could fail also and I would not know unless I checked the separate temp guide.

I’m really glad nothing bad happened to your critters. It’s very lucky you were home to catch that. I hope things work out for you.

Sincerely
Sarah

 

[n2585722]

If it is only 2 months old it should be under warranty. You may want to contact Digital Aquatics. The best way if via email to their support email.

 

[OriginalUserName]

Hello,

I’m curious if it would be just easier to not use an apex, or whatever that thingy is. That is just scary and too risky for my own liking but that’s just me. I’m theory I guess my two heaters could fail also and I would not know unless I checked the separate temp guide.

I’m really glad nothing bad happened to your critters. It’s very lucky you were home to catch that. I hope things work out for you.

Sincerely
Sarah

I'm definitely altering my plan on the new build to use 2 small heaters for this reason. I was pretty comfortable with a controller and a heater as insurance but not so much now. I will also go ahead and spend the cash for a high quality heater with an accurate internal thermostat.

 

[n2585722]

If you get heaters with electronic control instead of the mechanical. Use the heater control to control the temp and use the controller as the backup to power it down if it gets too hot. You may want to set one of the two heaters at a lower temp. If the one set at the higher temp fails then you will notice a drop in temp from normal. I have mine set this way. The lower set heater rarely turns on, but I do have central air and heat. My house temp does not fall or increase very much in temp. I usually stays between 70 and 75 degrees.