reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.

Fernando Garcia

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If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die
Hi!

To prevent this type of issue is better connect the sensor in parasite mode at least it won't heat up with wrong connection.

DS18B20.png


Best regards.
 
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Coolhack

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The problem is that yellow is not always data, red not always power, i think black might not even always ground with the probes from random manufacturers, consider the colors random, some even have different colors entirely

If I remember correctly, the sensor was noticably heating up immediately if you hold it in your hand when you turn on the power and data and power lines are switched up, if you don't torn the power off quickly, the sensor will die

You can at least figure out what's ground with a multimeter in diode mode
The probe I got was off of the office build page I though. https://learn.adafruit.com/reef-pi-guide-3-temperature-controller/parts that is where I bought it. Ten dollars for one probe. It is the recommended probe. Sooo......maybe the wrong build page?
 

theatrus

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Coolhack

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In your initial post you said it took you forever for it to recognize the probe. What did you actually do for that to happen that you didn't do before? Or was it a matter of doing the exact same thing and it randomly working?
Ok, when I first set it up, everything worked perfect. For about four months, then the temp probe started with the 0 degrees thing. Then the new release of reef pi came out so I updated to that then everything started going weird after I updated the pi software. I couldn't get the wifi chip to recognized the router, no temp probe, after buying another 5 of the cheap ones. 10 of them altogether. Then the ATO started acting up. I took the whole thing offline so I could fix it. Never really got the pi to work the same as it did for the first four months. I bought the recommended probe and it is still the same thing.
 

Coolhack

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Ok, may have figured it out, I had another raspberry pi 4 here that I was using for my pen testing lab, I hooked it up to all my reef pi stuff, power pack, ATO, temp probe, and I swapped out the SD cards and bam, everything works great, no errors. Is it possible that the gpio 4 pin isn't working on my other raspberry pi 4? If so, how do I fix it and make it work again? Anyone know the answer to these three questions?
 

elysics

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If the same wiring, same SD card, same pi model but different pi suddenly works, then I'd say gpio 4 is burned out for some reason. Or you had some error or bad connection in wiring that you didn't notice and transferring everything over fixed that.

Question, did you do the pull-up to 3.3V or to 5V ?
 
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Coolhack

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If the same wiring, same SD card, same pi model but different pi suddenly works, then I'd say gpio 4 is burned out for some reason. Or you had some error or bad connection in wiring that you didn't notice and transferring everything over fixed that.

Question, did you do the pull-up to 3.3V or to 5V ?
It's whatever the Leviathan board does, I think it is 3.3 volt not 100% on that. I do now know that the raspberry pi has a couple of, what are those wires that are made into the board called, anyways, it has one of those that looks like it is burned out and it is going to the #4 gpio.
 

theatrus

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It's whatever the Leviathan board does, I think it is 3.3 volt not 100% on that. I do now know that the raspberry pi has a couple of, what are those wires that are made into the board called, anyways, it has one of those that looks like it is burned out and it is going to the #4 gpio.

Traces. If its physically scorched and vaporized off, some event with a short to ground or voltage occurred. Its also possible the pin is damaged on chip (its not the most robust thing).
 
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elysics

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Most likely that part of that pi is toast, but maaaaaybe it'll work if you clean off the burn marks off that pin with isopropyl or something, since it apparently still recognized the probe even f it didn't work

Edit: oh nevermind that if it's the traces that are burned and not just the pin
 

BenB

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Ok, may have figured it out, I had another raspberry pi 4 here that I was using for my pen testing lab, I hooked it up to all my reef pi stuff, power pack, ATO, temp probe, and I swapped out the SD cards and bam, everything works great, no errors. Is it possible that the gpio 4 pin isn't working on my other raspberry pi 4? If so, how do I fix it and make it work again? Anyone know the answer to these three questions?
To change the default GPIO pin used for 1-wire communication you can edit the /boot/config.txt file and add this line:

dtoverlay=w1-gpio,gpiopin=x

where x is the GPIO pin you want to use. Reboot to see the change
 
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Ranjib

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What is the best PH probe you all have found to work with the Raspberry Pie controller
atalas scientific, brs double junction, american marine pinpoint
 

Coolhack

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To change the default GPIO pin used for 1-wire communication you can edit the /boot/config.txt file and add this line:

dtoverlay=w1-gpio,gpiopin=x

where x is the GPIO pin you want to use. Reboot to see the change
So you are saying I can still use the pi just change the gpio that the 1-wire uses?
 
Fritz

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Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3
 

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Ranjib

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Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3
If the blue wires are not showing any voltage variation then pwm is not working from pi side. Ideally it will be 0-3.3V, not 5V. You are using GPIO18 and 19?
 
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Ranjib

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Just ordered my new tank :) . Here is the build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ank-redsea-reefer-300-xl.846760/#post-9186166

Ive been waiting for this very long.. almost 3.5 years now. Home, then covid.. everything piled up. But now the time is here... super excited to get started with this new build. Still thinking what will go in the controller side. Light and pump now has built in controller. Monitoring for sure.. but what else... rsr has built in ATO.. but i'll still prefer reef-pi based ATO. Kessil AP9x is also 0-10v controllable :) .
 

elysics

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Do you have the line
dtoverlay=pwm-2chan

In /boot/config.txt somewhere?

Assuming you use the pi internal pwm channels on 18 and 19
Hoping someone here can help:
I'm in the process of building out a Viparspectra T300 with a Reef-Pi. I followed a few of the different guides here and on other forums, but for the life of me I cannot get PWM to work. My relays work and can be controlled via the reefpi, but there is no dimming, the lights appear to stay at 100% the whole time (verified by jumping to 5v on one of the blue wires and it looked the same as when connected to a PWM channel). Excuse my pics as this is still on breadboard. I am using the latest PiOS build along with the latest reefpi build on a Pi 3+ . Any help is greatly appreciated!

Included is a pic of the original controller for the LED fixture as well. On my breadboard the yellow wires are coming from the two PWM channels and going to the two Blue PWM wires for the drivers. Within reefpi I have the pwm set to 100 under Config > Settings, and properly added the two channels as jacks, along with the two relays as Outlets.

Build info:
PiOS: 5.10.17-v7+
Reefpi: 4.1
Pi: Pi 3 Model B Plus Rev 1.3
 
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