Reef-Pi Controllers: New all-in-one with power bar, and the original Pico

dmolavi

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Got it hooked up, but the annunciator is just beeping. No power to the Pi..
1547594363514.jpeg


How do i get the beeper to stop...and how do i get the Pi to power on?
 

FranklinDattein

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Great to see a community developing around an open source aquarium controller with the RPI.

I've been working on a similar project since 2012 and also planning to release it as open source for while, but never got the time required. Hopefully it will happen this year.


I little suggestion: Put an female USB port hooked to the I2C bus, to enable it to access all existing Reef Angel peripherals.

31307184234_187e781427_c.jpg

24707744851_5d94e75c1b_c.jpg


27750071646_7064d97d38_c.jpg
 

buddy.

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Great to see a community developing around an open source aquarium controller with the RPI.

I've been working on a similar project since 2012 and also planning to release it as open source for while, but never got the time required. Hopefully it will happen this year.


I little suggestion: Put an female USB port hooked to the I2C bus, to enable it to access all existing Reef Angel peripherals.

31307184234_187e781427_c.jpg

24707744851_5d94e75c1b_c.jpg


27750071646_7064d97d38_c.jpg

This brings back memories of your posts on the reefuge!
 

dmolavi

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Alright...everytime I go through the setup, I'll reboot and the Pi hangs. I've done the following:

sudo apt-get update -y
sudo apt-get upgrade -y
sudo systemctl start systemd-timesyncd
sudo systemctl enable systemd-timesyncd


From raspi-config, disabled SPI, enable 1 wire and I2C. I've used https://github.com/blueacro/reefpi-pico/blob/master/config.txt as my /boot/config.txt, and to do the RTC stuff (from https://learn.adafruit.com/adding-a-real-time-clock-to-raspberry-pi/set-rtc-time):

sudo apt-get install python-smbus i2c-tools
sudo apt-get -y remove fake-hwclock
sudo update-rc.d -f fake-hwclock remove
sudo systemctl disable fake-hwclock


Run sudo nano /lib/udev/hwclock-set and comment out these three lines:

#if [ -e /run/systemd/system ] ; then
# exit 0
#fi


Then, sudo hwclock -w .

When I reboot...the Pi just hangs. What am I missing/doing wrong?
 
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theatrus

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Alright...everytime I go through the setup, I'll reboot and the Pi hangs. I've done the following:

sudo apt-get update -y
sudo apt-get upgrade -y
sudo systemctl start systemd-timesyncd
sudo systemctl enable systemd-timesyncd


From raspi-config, disabled SPI, enable 1 wire and I2C. I've used https://github.com/blueacro/reefpi-pico/blob/master/config.txt as my /boot/config.txt, and to do the RTC stuff (from https://learn.adafruit.com/adding-a-real-time-clock-to-raspberry-pi/set-rtc-time):

sudo apt-get install python-smbus i2c-tools
sudo apt-get -y remove fake-hwclock
sudo update-rc.d -f fake-hwclock remove
sudo systemctl disable fake-hwclock


Run sudo nano /lib/udev/hwclock-set and comment out these three lines:

#if [ -e /run/systemd/system ] ; then
# exit 0
#fi


Then, sudo hwclock -w .

When I reboot...the Pi just hangs. What am I missing/doing wrong?

Do you have a monitor or console to determine where it hangs? I’ve found stretch Raspbian does the right thing out of the box with NTP and doesn’t need any further configuration.

For reference, the following are the boot/config.txt settings to use:

https://github.com/blueacro/reefpi-pico/blob/master/config.txt

Also, is there a CR1216 battery installed (underside of the board)?
 

dmolavi

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Do you have a monitor or console to determine where it hangs? I’ve found stretch Raspbian does the right thing out of the box with NTP and doesn’t need any further configuration.

For reference, the following are the boot/config.txt settings to use:

https://github.com/blueacro/reefpi-pico/blob/master/config.txt

Also, is there a CR1216 battery installed (underside of the board)?

Unfortunately, no monitor...i'm doing the setup headless. I'm using that /boot/config.txt file. Haven't checked the battery...didn't know there was a slot for one, so i guess that means there isn't one installed :)

I am using Stretch, so which of the steps that I performed are un-necessary?
 

dmolavi

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Do you have a monitor or console to determine where it hangs? I’ve found stretch Raspbian does the right thing out of the box with NTP and doesn’t need any further configuration.

For reference, the following are the boot/config.txt settings to use:

https://github.com/blueacro/reefpi-pico/blob/master/config.txt

Also, is there a CR1216 battery installed (underside of the board)?

Just checked...yup...there is a battery. Any other suggestions?
 
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theatrus

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Just checked...yup...there is a battery. Any other suggestions?

Really need to see the console to see where it might be hanging up. I've not had an RTC block boot before in any way (even when I had a totally broken i2c bus).

You can also access the serial console if you have no other monitors or HDMI around, assuming you have a TTL level serial adapter of course.
 

dmolavi

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Really need to see the console to see where it might be hanging up. I've not had an RTC block boot before in any way (even when I had a totally broken i2c bus).

You can also access the serial console if you have no other monitors or HDMI around, assuming you have a TTL level serial adapter of course.

Go figure. plugged in it and BAM it works.
 
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theatrus

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I’m still overdue on hookup guides, and I still don’t have a set of DFRobot optical sensors (somewhere in the mail, maybe tied up with the stuff stuck in customs from Lumileds grr), but I present simple pictorial for a float switch on the Pico:

00feb9bdcfc64dd58911d6db5588b621.jpg


This connects pin 19 as the input.
 

DirtDiggler2823

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I’m still overdue on hookup guides, and I still don’t have a set of DFRobot optical sensors (somewhere in the mail, maybe tied up with the stuff stuck in customs from Lumileds grr), but I present simple pictorial for a float switch on the Pico:

00feb9bdcfc64dd58911d6db5588b621.jpg


This connects pin 19 as the input.
Thank you, good sir.
 

dmolavi

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I'm getting ready to cobble together my Tunze "sense" circuit for the Osmolator and I got to thinking about the current draw of the osmolator pump. The stock power supply they ship is 1600mA. I haven't pulled the multimeter to see how much the pump draws, but I'm wondering if the 1/4W resistors we all use will be sufficient for the voltage divider circuit (to drop the 12V down to 3.3-ish).
 

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I’m still overdue on hookup guides, and I still don’t have a set of DFRobot optical sensors (somewhere in the mail, maybe tied up with the stuff stuck in customs from Lumileds grr), but I present simple pictorial for a float switch on the Pico:

00feb9bdcfc64dd58911d6db5588b621.jpg


This connects pin 19 as the input.

So I
 

DirtDiggler2823

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I’m still overdue on hookup guides, and I still don’t have a set of DFRobot optical sensors (somewhere in the mail, maybe tied up with the stuff stuck in customs from Lumileds grr), but I present simple pictorial for a float switch on the Pico:

00feb9bdcfc64dd58911d6db5588b621.jpg


This connects pin 19 as the input.

I cabled this in and was not able to get it working. Could there be an issue with my ribbon cable? I was able to get the SDJ power strip going, but none of the sensors I've hung off of the DPIO pins have worked correctly. I'll have to check the pins again for power. Could there be an issue with amperage?
 
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theatrus

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I cabled this in and was not able to get it working. Could there be an issue with my ribbon cable? I was able to get the SDJ power strip going, but none of the sensors I've hung off of the DPIO pins have worked correctly. I'll have to check the pins again for power. Could there be an issue with amperage?

With a mechanical float?
 
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theatrus

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I'm getting ready to cobble together my Tunze "sense" circuit for the Osmolator and I got to thinking about the current draw of the osmolator pump. The stock power supply they ship is 1600mA. I haven't pulled the multimeter to see how much the pump draws, but I'm wondering if the 1/4W resistors we all use will be sufficient for the voltage divider circuit (to drop the 12V down to 3.3-ish).

The sense circuit resistors won’t matter, as we are drawing nano amps of bias from the digital input circuit. You can use 10k and up for dividers.
 
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