Reef-Pi Controllers: New all-in-one with power bar, and the original Pico

[theatrus]

Since I’m here anyway and I teased a little spin off project, I’d like to report the high voltage LED controller is functional. It shares the curse of the unobtabium MCU, but my one copy will continue to operate for now. It also shares firmware with the power strip, and was done entirely in Rust. Building it helped validate a few peripherals and was an easier target to program up. I’ll post the design files for it once I took a pass cleaning them up.

Built to run up to two 100V 150mA LED arrays, it’s more for a planted tank setup with tons of white LEDs in series. I use the 98+ CRI Yuji LEDs.

 

[theatrus]

Nice to hear the wheels are still in motion but sad to hear about delays you can't control. This chip shortage is definitely real and I agree the little stuff is getting pushed off. When I first heard this 6+ months ago I never expected little old me would ever be affected, boy was I wrong. I can only imagine how many have been hurt much worse. The PCA9685 that you could get by the wheel barrel is out of stock everywhere, lately I've been getting a few from here and there but no stock until 2nd quarter 2022 and I have a feeling dates will be pushed as we get closer and as you know there's no alternatives. Same with the ATtiny85, only MLF package available as they are a bugger to program, it's getting scary when these chips feed you.

Looking forward to seeing some builds in the meantime.

Most ridiculous part shortage? The coin cell battery holder on the HV LED board is perpetually out of stock.

 

[Ranjib]

In rust we trust

Im so happy that you are still involved. Dont worry about the delay. chip shortage is real, everything from rack mounted servers to cars to hvac units are in severe shortage. And many of the backlogs are till 2022-23. Take it easy. The led controller looks awesome

 

[theatrus]

I've posted the design files for the HV LED controller:

GitHub - blueacro/pcb-ba-acroiq-hv: AcroIQ High Voltage LED Driver PCB project

AcroIQ High Voltage LED Driver PCB project. Contribute to blueacro/pcb-ba-acroiq-hv development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

Included is the PDF schematics and BOM, Gerber files, Drill files, and original board and schematic files. Also linked off of this is the interim firmware, which still has some pending changes to it (but operates, supports time setting, etc). Its not Reef-Pi integrated yet as it was mostly designed to run stand-alone on a small desk tank.

Firmware is a very simple solar angle intensity tracker for a fake 12 hour day centered at noon. A bulk of the firmware is a very simple, run-way-too-much in an ISR affair. I want to pilot shifting it to using RTIC ( https://rtic.rs/0.5/book/en/ ) and work on streamlining the communication code. I realize all instructions are sorely lacking, so its difficult to actually build this.

As for plan B with the power strip, I'm reviving a past project with some parts I have on hand as a "core" USB module. I/O, 1-wires, pump outputs, pH sensors. I did a lot of digging in garage storage and found a stack of usable STM32s for this purpose

 

[theatrus]

After realizing the parts issues with the power bar build, I opted to see what I could build, from inventory on hand from the Pico boards, and including a few new parts. This revived the simpler USB controller model I had been uncommitted to earlier in this thread. The summarize, the goal is to make an easy IO expansion with all of the circuits prebuilt for ReefPi in one module, plugged straight into the USB ports or a Raspberry Pi or really any PC. All of the fun of control, without breadboards, power supplies, etc (except a Raspberry PI).

The limited features:

- 1Wire port, with power reset and enable, and 5V ready to work with some of the more finicky sensors. The port is also protected against shorts.
- pH sensor, based on the same circuit as the Pico board.
- 3 float switch input, compatible with both mechanical or 2x optical float switches. Power outputs are protected against mishaps and shorts.
- (Not pictured) Optional board which gives ~6 0-10V outputs (changes the back plate to add another 8 pin connector for this.

I'm intentionally skipping motor / pump drives, LED, etc. Also no direct relay control - thats what the power bar is for. And nothing stops using any of the existing Pi IO ports.

I did some risk buys of enough parts for a handful of these to play around with and send out, so you should be seeing real hardware pop up soon.



(I'd change the thread title and banner image, but it appears I can't anymore, so you'll just have to cope with a power bar teasing you )

 

[attiland]

After realizing the parts issues with the power bar build, I opted to see what I could build, from inventory on hand from the Pico boards, and including a few new parts. This revived the simpler USB controller model I had been uncommitted to earlier in this thread. The summarize, the goal is to make an easy IO expansion with all of the circuits prebuilt for ReefPi in one module, plugged straight into the USB ports or a Raspberry Pi or really any PC. All of the fun of control, without breadboards, power supplies, etc (except a Raspberry PI).

The limited features:

- 1Wire port, with power reset and enable, and 5V ready to work with some of the more finicky sensors. The port is also protected against shorts.
- pH sensor, based on the same circuit as the Pico board.
- 3 float switch input, compatible with both mechanical or 2x optical float switches. Power outputs are protected against mishaps and shorts.
- (Not pictured) Optional board which gives ~6 0-10V outputs (changes the back plate to add another 8 pin connector for this.

I'm intentionally skipping motor / pump drives, LED, etc. Also no direct relay control - thats what the power bar is for. And nothing stops using any of the existing Pi IO ports.

I did some risk buys of enough parts for a handful of these to play around with and send out, so you should be seeing real hardware pop up soon.



(I'd change the thread title and banner image, but it appears I can't anymore, so you'll just have to cope with a power bar teasing you )

Usb is the way to go. Power bar should be usb too

 

[Ranjib]

Looking good

 

[theatrus]

Finally a long awaited update on the Mini controller. 2021 had been a whirlwind for a lot of reasons, and it took months to actually get a stock of some base parts for projects in place. Good news is for the active components, there is stock to get something made here

This started life as a "pH over USB" sensor in a box, and added some easy conveniences to add more IO with less wiring.

- Works over USB to a Raspberry Pi or other SBC. An adapter program running on the Pi makes a virtual file I/O setup to interface with Reef Pi, and communicates over USB to one or more controllers. No extra power needed.
- pH circuit from the original Pico, isolated
- Offers 3 float switch circuits, current limited and protected
- Offers a 1-wire circuit, with reset functionality
- Planned ad-in board to the same case (the 6 pin header), offering maybe 0-10V output or PWM out. Open to suggestions.

Some minor fit and finish issues (back panel didn't have mask applied, etc), and some testing required.

 

[Ranjib]

Wow, looks gorgeous. This will be useful for controllers beyond reef-pi. I really like the form factor

 

[theatrus]

Wow, looks gorgeous. This will be useful for controllers beyond reef-pi. I really like the form factor

The cases have very much gone up in price due to aluminum prices worldwide, but still a nice value, since you can just slide a standard PCB rectangle into them:

AC7203-24XCS MOOG Capsule | Hawk Electronics

www.hawkusa.com

The end caps are also PCBs, since its easy to get a cut and printed piece of material from the same tooling.

 

[DirtDiggler2823]

Finally a long awaited update on the Mini controller. 2021 had been a whirlwind for a lot of reasons, and it took months to actually get a stock of some base parts for projects in place. Good news is for the active components, there is stock to get something made here

This started life as a "pH over USB" sensor in a box, and added some easy conveniences to add more IO with less wiring.

- Works over USB to a Raspberry Pi or other SBC. An adapter program running on the Pi makes a virtual file I/O setup to interface with Reef Pi, and communicates over USB to one or more controllers. No extra power needed.
- pH circuit from the original Pico, isolated
- Offers 3 float switch circuits, current limited and protected
- Offers a 1-wire circuit, with reset functionality
- Planned ad-in board to the same case (the 6 pin header), offering maybe 0-10V output or PWM out. Open to suggestions.

Some minor fit and finish issues (back panel didn't have mask applied, etc), and some testing required.

That looks amazing! Not gonna lie, I want one of these now.

 

[theatrus]

Just as an update, I've moved content for the MiniCore off to its own thread (because there is no thread scarcity problem really):

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reefvolt-minicore-ph-1-wire-sensor-module-for-reef-pi.891002/

 

[AnotherReefHobbyist]

Is the power bar reef pi something that can be bought or is it all diy?

 

[theatrus]

Is the power bar reef pi something that can be bought or is it all diy?

Due to parts shortages, the power bar is hibernating until either re-designed or parts become available. If you're looking for something turn-key, the Kasa power strips are the way to go.

 

[AnotherReefHobbyist]

Due to parts shortages, the power bar is hibernating until either re-designed or parts become available. If you're looking for something turn-key, the Kasa power strips are the way to go.

Wonderful, thank you for turning me on to that!

 

[Simonv92]

@theatrus, I was looking your first design of the Pico Board... What is the main function of the SMC IC? Thank you very much!
Simone

 

[theatrus]

@theatrus, I was looking your first design of the Pico Board... What is the main function of the SMC IC? Thank you very much!
Simone

Great question.

It had two functions:
- Watchdog for the Raspberry Pi. You could set/reset a countdown timer on the device, and if it elapsed, the Pi and all peripherals would be powered down and back up.
- I2C access to a little beeper for alarms.

 

[Simonv92]

Thank you very much! So it works as an "output" device for reef-pi with the difference that it check if the program is running or not...
very nice! do you think that it can be replicate with an arduino programmable mcu?

In my system, currently on my power bar I have a signal that can enable or disable the PCA9685. When I disable it I can run the outlet based on how some jumpers are set. A kind of failsafe in there's something wrong in the main controller unit...
It will be very nice to implement a simple way to check if the Rpi is running fine and if not put the system in failsafe mode...

 

[Simonv92]

Another simple question... On the input side, In0 and In1 are 5V tolerant? the SN74LVC2G17 buffer will convert them from 5V to 3.3V?

 

[theatrus]

very nice! do you think that it can be replicate with an arduino programmable mcu?

Yes, but you'll need to add a power switch to do the same function, preferably cutting 5V to large chunks of the system.

In my system, currently on my power bar I have a signal that can enable or disable the PCA9685. When I disable it I can run the outlet based on how some jumpers are set. A kind of failsafe in there's something wrong in the main controller unit...
It will be very nice to implement a simple way to check if the Rpi is running fine and if not put the system in failsafe mode...

Yup! Using an arduino at least as the resettable timer is nice, its just a matter of putting the IO into a defined state when the Pi does get cut off. You can use varying resistors, like a weak pull up or down, which is overpowered by the Pi IO for one example. Having the Arduino also become a master on the I2C bus is another option.

Another simple question... On the input side, In0 and In1 are 5V tolerant? the SN74LVC2G17 buffer will convert them from 5V to 3.3V?

Yes, that was the intent. There are other ways to do this (e.g. STM32s are almost all 5V tolerant, or using a resistor + zener on each input, etc). This was a simple one component fix.