Reef-Pi The All In One Pi Challenge

AquaRaider44

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Hello All,

I hopefully will keep up with this thread and keep it stupid simple for all of the non-technical people.

My goal for this project is to have everything all on one Raspberry Pi 3b+ which will help to keep the cost down by not having to buy more Pi's and hats for the pH and Lighting and Dosing. This will also reduce the cost by not having separate enclosers and power supplies for each. I also want to be able to control everything all from one dashboard and not have to configure and forward like 1,000,000 obscure ports as I already have many pi's and pc's running and use remote access on all of them. The main issue is that my ISP sucks and replaces my modem every 3-4 months because the internet sucks then I have to reconfigure all of the ports and devices.

I also hope to keep the cost down of this project and would like to keep the total cost under $250 but yet still have all of the modules and then some which would cost about $400. I have a 3d printer so I may print enclosures or I may just buy cheap ones depending on the size and use. Many of the costs and items listed on the main thread and guides are for convenience (and probably safety depending on your level of electrician skill ;)) and can be cut completely or done for much less such as a prebuilt 8 channel controllable power strip.

Modules I hope to be building include

1. A home built 8 Channel Power Controller with macros so I can shut everything off to feed the coral and have it auto turn back on
2. Single or double temperature controller
3. Auto top off using Liquid Level Sensor
4. Out of RODI water reminder using Liquid Level Sensor
5. Clean bag filter reminder using Liquid Level Sensor
6. Light controller for 2 of the gloriously cheap Chinese lights (2 channel Mars Aqua 165w LED's)
7. PH Monitor hopefully using @Michael Lane pH board to keep costs down
8. Dosing controller using Jebao DP-4s slave doser for 45$ for 4 which is much cheaper than buying 4 dosing pumps at 25$ EACH

I also hope to be able to build a few other smaller things into this such as a moonlight setup as I currently only have 1 working 0.5 w LED on a 66 Gallon Aquarium :p.

Stuff required below will update

Stuff Used From Home
1. Hack saw with fine tooth blade
2. flat blade screwdriver
3. Philips head screwdriver
4. Wire strippers
5. Needle nose pliers
6. Flux
7. Flux Brush
8. Flux Bowl
9. Pencil Soldering iron
10. Small Solder
11. House/ circuit breaker wire
12. 3 prong plug end
13. Extension Cord
14. Jumper wire assortment m2m, m2f, f2f
15. Soldering iron stand
16. Steal brush
17. Sponge
18. Water
19. Multimeter

Stuff Purchased For Use (Special Note: I use Amazon Smile for most everything as it is next day shipping for me and a large part goes to benefit your charity of choice at no additional cost to you) (I chose the Ocean Foundation and you should too)

1. Silicone rubber electrical wire kit 22 gauge/AWG tinned copper 300V solid single core electric wire cable hook up wires CBAZY
2. Element14 Raspberry Pi 3 B+ Motherboard
3. Gikfun DS18B20 Temperature Sensor Waterproof Digital Thermal Probe Sensor For Arduino (Pack of 3pcs) EK1083x3
4. 4 - Leviton T5325-W 15 Amp 125 Volt, Tamper Resistant, Decora Duplex Receptacle, Straight Blade, Grounding, 1-Pack, White
5. Adafruit Perma-Proto HAT for Pi Mini Kit - No EEPROM - Unassembled
6. JBtek 8 Channel DC 5V Relay Module for Arduino Raspberry Pi DSP AVR PIC ARM
7. OdiySurveil(TM) 10pcs 40 Pin 2.54mm Straight Single Row Pin Header Strip
8. 4.7k Ohm Resistors 1/4 Watt 5% (100 Pieces)
9. Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply LCD 12V 4A 48W for LCD Monitor, LED Strip Light and Other Low Voltage Device
10. SanDisk Ultra 32GB microSDHC UHS-I card with Adapter - 98MB/s U1 A1 - SDSQUAR-032G-GN6MA
11. 2 - QEBIDUL LM2596S DC-DC Buck Converter DIY 4-40V to 1.25-37V Step-down Regulator Power Module Volt Stabilizer with LED Voltmeter Display

.
 

Zippyfear

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Heading down the same path. Just FYI. I currently have 3 working temp sensors with Reef-Pi 2.3 -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKVRVNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Sealed with heat wrap, and coated the end with silicon) - Seems to be within .1 degree of the uncoated sensors, so still very accurrate.

I went the more expensive route of using American DJ SR P8 | 8ch Relay Power Pack for SC-8 for the power control as I didn't want to mess with wiring the higher voltage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EYHBVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a few optical sensors on order
Gravity: Photoelectric Water / Liquid Level Sensor For Arduino
from DFrobot

I'll also keep posting my progress here as well.
 
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AquaRaider44

AquaRaider44

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Update - USPS really screwed up. The package was supposed to be delivered yesterday and was promised that it would be here by today and it wasn't here so I called Amazon and they refunded me for the order and then resent the order next day air to me for tomorrow and also credited my account $10. What's new :D. I also get to keep both orders if the other one arrives at no cost maybe ill use 2 pi's ;Bored.
 

crusso1993

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Update - USPS really screwed up. The package was supposed to be delivered yesterday and was promised that it would be here by today and it wasn't here so I called Amazon and they refunded me for the order and then resent the order next day air to me for tomorrow and also credited my account $10. What's new :D. I also get to keep both orders if the other one arrives at no cost maybe ill use 2 pi's ;Bored.

Sounds like a win to me!
 

crusso1993

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I mean it could be if the other package shows up and I really get 2 lol

Chances are good that it will show up. The real questions are when and what shape will it be in? :eek:
 

crusso1993

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BTW - I see you're pretty new and didn't do an introductory post. Welcome to R2R!

tenor.gif


#welcometor2r
 

b4tn

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I am tagging along as well. You can check out by reefpi build thread in my sig. I built an all in one reef-pi and managed to squeeze the following into one box.

4 temp probes
dual float switch for high and low level
8 outlets
3 channel light dimming
2 dosers

The doser motors are not in the box. I decided to re use my jeabo dosing box and just run 4 power wires to it for the 2 motors.

I followed the guides very closely but did deviate a bit. Some tips.

- Laptop power supplies are a dime a dozen and chances are you already have a few laying around the house. They are robust and have regulated voltage so they are an excellent source for power. I did not take the time to calculate the exact demand but the 12 volt 5 amp power supply I am using has not failed me.

- To prevent any chance of noise in the voltage caused by motors or any other noisy component and to better protect the Raspberry I did a few things. First I tried to keep all relays, motors, and non digital components 12 volts. I have two power buss's one that is 12 volts from the laptop power supply and one that is 5 volts from the buck converter. The Raspberry has a built in fuse and noise reduction circuitry but only if you use the micro usb port to power it. So power to the raspberry is 5 volts fromt he buck converter via a splice usb cable.

- If you are using the jumper cables for wiring they get loose after pluging and unplugging a few times. A little squeeze to the center will tighten them back up.

- With an all in one setup there are a ton of wires in the box. Color code and shrink wrap as much as possible Shrink wrap is cheap at harbor freight and worth the extra effort to keep things organized.

- Last, build one section at a time and test each one thoroughly before moving to the next part. I spent several weeks just testing it for days at a time. But i am overly paranoid.



169563739be34a0dbc6dc262c5fb5325.jpg
 
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AquaRaider44

AquaRaider44

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Did the initial built today and got it set up and running for the most part with temperature and relays connected but no plugs to control yet.

Current issues

Does anyone know how to offset the thermometer? It seems to be off by 3 degrees too low.

Buck converters both made a loud squeaking/buzzing noize so I figured that was from a shorting ground and 5v once I cleaned that up it was not as bad but still noticeable so I purchased some more converters and will return these once I receive the new ones. Seems to be worse the more current is drawn for example when the relays are turned on it buzzes more.

Flux is really sticky and is getting everywhere. What's the best way to clean it up?

New parts ordered

eBoot 6 Pack LM2596 DC to DC Buck Converter 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Power Supply Step Down Module
Anndason 6 Pieces Plastic PP Float Switch Fish Tank Liquid Water Level Sensor,Model: DP5200
DP-4S SLAVE DOSING PUMP - JEBAO
NPN Bipolar Transistors (PN2222) - 10 pack
Through-Hole Resistors - 10K ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25
Through-Hole Resistors - 2.2K ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25
Adafruit 16-Channel 12-bit PWM/Servo Driver - I2C interface - PCA9685
Adafruit Perma-Proto Half-sized Breadboard PCB - Single
EDGELEC 120pcs 20cm Dupont Wire Female to Female Breadboard Jumper Wires 3.9 inch 1pin-1pin 2.54mm Connector Multicolored Ribbon Cables DIY Arduino Wi

7o7aRs_xXxQcLZuEIXYQLU1VmxPaAP_YZeTRxsAzOJGsHJfGFd8ddK1PWWypZbuc0QxpvUGF3jFarblUdr7iXXDLt6HGnsDBq0f2G2NIpb1f9Gn_q0wYa7Q14XiY4tchFo5wuEmVDAayJwjDWXSxHVN08yH9UDC3YZ3sHILFCkCLoChATyfcbGj-RUXTB_aCZ50QpG9S4eDsx4Y9FF6G4JzW-IH7Y9W9h0WC--ogPsdt016EnzYZBfubeGLqTkIVXNxH4P4zDsyNhKr4zXefBFdzRGcpRDKSXRMLsQs28nUVZdAsepbHLi-6F6F2U6u0anG8pOsTNoto0bnRJhiROnQYNzeoSYMQb3M79uSF5bYAVok9BMFH-y8M10bwATo4-T7VcueeTyiVIINw8_ZdJmgRjkA46ERZCsj7LAkFQcW3wQcW1wnSPzNs-Hbp2Xi-qMKzs3rdhLtl7J6nBS4Uv96tz5g4I1JIuyUGnhmjWRvmiK5pEDHzM841jl6Ap8N5hgEi8K2J5N7eLD_DSELjVVKelZepwx7CVpiIQTmdD5OFCKB4wp5wMwvoMADC2B4Kgb-fyOJYuiKmD8ECyn8ys71lCr8Qv1w5TE3y4l7UAFngHi4ITMeN813_b1BUEVkgacHXs83-r-dr444KHAqEtvQxUSqtaFvf=w1188-h891-no
 

crusso1993

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Did the initial built today and got it set up and running for the most part with temperature and relays connected but no plugs to control yet.

Current issues

Does anyone know how to offset the thermometer? It seems to be off by 3 degrees too low.

Buck converters both made a loud squeaking/buzzing noize so I figured that was from a shorting ground and 5v once I cleaned that up it was not as bad but still noticeable so I purchased some more converters and will return these once I receive the new ones. Seems to be worse the more current is drawn for example when the relays are turned on it buzzes more.

Flux is really sticky and is getting everywhere. What's the best way to clean it up?

New parts ordered

eBoot 6 Pack LM2596 DC to DC Buck Converter 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Power Supply Step Down Module
Anndason 6 Pieces Plastic PP Float Switch Fish Tank Liquid Water Level Sensor,Model: DP5200
DP-4S SLAVE DOSING PUMP - JEBAO
NPN Bipolar Transistors (PN2222) - 10 pack
Through-Hole Resistors - 10K ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25
Through-Hole Resistors - 2.2K ohm 5% 1/4W - Pack of 25
Adafruit 16-Channel 12-bit PWM/Servo Driver - I2C interface - PCA9685
Adafruit Perma-Proto Half-sized Breadboard PCB - Single
EDGELEC 120pcs 20cm Dupont Wire Female to Female Breadboard Jumper Wires 3.9 inch 1pin-1pin 2.54mm Connector Multicolored Ribbon Cables DIY Arduino Wi

7o7aRs_xXxQcLZuEIXYQLU1VmxPaAP_YZeTRxsAzOJGsHJfGFd8ddK1PWWypZbuc0QxpvUGF3jFarblUdr7iXXDLt6HGnsDBq0f2G2NIpb1f9Gn_q0wYa7Q14XiY4tchFo5wuEmVDAayJwjDWXSxHVN08yH9UDC3YZ3sHILFCkCLoChATyfcbGj-RUXTB_aCZ50QpG9S4eDsx4Y9FF6G4JzW-IH7Y9W9h0WC--ogPsdt016EnzYZBfubeGLqTkIVXNxH4P4zDsyNhKr4zXefBFdzRGcpRDKSXRMLsQs28nUVZdAsepbHLi-6F6F2U6u0anG8pOsTNoto0bnRJhiROnQYNzeoSYMQb3M79uSF5bYAVok9BMFH-y8M10bwATo4-T7VcueeTyiVIINw8_ZdJmgRjkA46ERZCsj7LAkFQcW3wQcW1wnSPzNs-Hbp2Xi-qMKzs3rdhLtl7J6nBS4Uv96tz5g4I1JIuyUGnhmjWRvmiK5pEDHzM841jl6Ap8N5hgEi8K2J5N7eLD_DSELjVVKelZepwx7CVpiIQTmdD5OFCKB4wp5wMwvoMADC2B4Kgb-fyOJYuiKmD8ECyn8ys71lCr8Qv1w5TE3y4l7UAFngHi4ITMeN813_b1BUEVkgacHXs83-r-dr444KHAqEtvQxUSqtaFvf=w1188-h891-no

Best way to clean the flux is using isopropyl alcohol and a small brush. Then wipe it off with a paper towel afterward. That is, of course, if you need to clean the flux. Pure rosin based and no-clean flux do not have to be cleaned unless you want to clean it. Other types should be cleaned.
 

Michael Lane

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Looking good! Post some pictures of the pcb in the doser when it comes in. I modded my 3s to do the same thing, but I'm curious if the 4s has the same design.

Temperature calibration isn't built in to reef-pi yet. We have issue 324 to add that feature, but it's not in progress yet.

It's common for a buck converter to buzz. They generally work by turning the power on and off very quickly, and basically averaging the output with an inductor (the black square with a circle in the middle). The coil in the inductor can vibrate and cause that noise. It will be more pronounced with more current.
 
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