Reef Rhythms: 750 Gallons of Biological Fun!

Sltloser

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This one has been floating around my mind for quite a while, after seeing people like AlexG, Mehaffeydr, Dca22anderson, atomic08, Vance, and others build massive plywood aquariums I was inspired to do my own. Having a pre-built glass or acrylic tank is wonderful in a lot of ways, you only have to move it, you get to spec it out exactly as you want and let someone else build it, and it *shouldn’t* leak. These are all great features especially as you get into large sized aquariums where water gets to the point of turning your basement into a small pond, but I guess I like to live a little on the wild side ;).

As I was searching for my first house I was keeping an eye out for a space that could fit a giant aquarium so I could continue feeding my love for coral reef ecosystems that have been a part of my life for so long. Unfortunately it has always been from afar where aquariums, documentaries, and pet stores were the only way to observe this fascinating environment. I’ve always lived in a land locked state (except for freshman year in Hawaii), but it hasn’t stopped me from learning and going to graduate school to learn more about this magical environment.

The vision: A large mixed reef tank housing organisms that are found within the same environment and would have a high likelihood of mingling naturally.

For me the obvious area to set my sites on was the "coral triangle" which different parts of Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, and the Solomon islands. I’m not sure if I’ll be able to succeed in this, there are so many amazing fish and inverts that come from across the globe that its hard to pass up on some of those iconic species whose natural range is outside of this area.

The goal with the physical tank was to create something as large as large as possible in the available space, while also having room for all the supporting pieces to keep the tank running smoothly (testing, filtration, flow, quarantine, coral propagation, etc.).

The useable space in the basement is basically a giant L with the small arm of the L feeling like mostly unfunctional space, it's a bit of a weird layout. I wanted to use the basement for both entertaining and a fish tank so I decided that using the small portion of the L for the fish tank and supporting system was the best idea (space boxed out in red). There were a few driving reasons for this decision but the main 2 were that it optimized space for the tank and it had a window that I could use for humidity removal/reduction.

FishRoom_FloorPlan.png



The next steps were to model out the basement in google sketchup, I tend to enjoy the planning/building process as much as building out the coral reef ecosystem. I started with an at scale model of the basement in its current state then I added in the fish tank.

I've removed the wall that the tank will be framed in for easier viewing of the space
Sketchup_ZoomedOut.PNG


Sketchup_Tank1.PNG


This open space will be used for all ancillary equipment, you can also see the catwalk behind the tank for easy maintenance.

FishRoom_FiltrationRoom.PNG


The view below of the fish room best captures the idea of how it will be viewed from the outside. My plan is to have a half wall with viewing window(s) so that the fish room feels like a “lab” space. My thought was that doing it this way will allow for easy viewing to observe what is going on in the fish room without having to walk into the fish room. I can keep an eye on all equipment every time I walk by and can do multiple daily quick checks along with true walkthroughs within the room. The other thought with this was to open up the newly created “hallway” so that it doesn’t feel like a confined dark hallway when walking to the utility room/bathroom which are adjacent to the fish room.

FilterRoom_Window.PNG


@TheWB
 

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This looks great
I like the wood framing around the front glass. I think this will be better than what I did.
I will enjoy following your progress
 
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Sltloser

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After figuring out the where and how much space I wanted to take up the first thing was to rip out the carpet to see what I had to deal with!

4b5bb4f7-254f-4a1a-b473-92756c8cd932-1_all_37.jpg



Found some old linoleum under the carpet, being the worry wart that I am, I decided I would get it tested for asbestos. Luckily, NO ASBESTOS, so full steam ahead!

I then had to decide how to make the stand. I saw a few different takes on large plywood stands and decided that from my experiences the best stand would be to create a "house" like framework. The main objective would be to use 2x6s as vertical supports, which would then be attached to a 2x6 frame that would sit on top of the walls.

In essence, create walls and floor joists just like how a house is build. The plywood tank would sit on the "floor joists" distributing the weight to the walls and down into the concrete floor.

The next question I had to tackle was what was the best way to build it level? I've seen some people use self leveling concrete, or building each support of the stand using a laser level but those didn't feel quite right to me. I decided I'd be better off just scribing the bottom to the floor and then building the walls and floor on top of that.

So I made a makeshift scribing tool to take off about 1/2" of material from the 2x6.
4b5bb4f7-254f-4a1a-b473-92756c8cd932-1_all_23.jpg



Then to scribing! I ensured that I marked each piece of wood so I could easily re-assemble once everything was ready to go back together.
4b5bb4f7-254f-4a1a-b473-92756c8cd932-1_all_25.jpg


4b5bb4f7-254f-4a1a-b473-92756c8cd932-1_all_22.jpg
 
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Sltloser

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Time to build a small house! Kind of...

I started by ensuring that the scribed boards were properly spaced for a 2x6 and then marked out where each stud would go. I went with 12" between studs just to ensure it was overbuilt.
PXL_20240106_225443882.jpg


I don't own a nail gun so I decided to go with screws for each "stud", it takes a LOT longer than having a nail gun. I got the walls all built and placed on the scribed frame. In the end she was pretty level after scribing, just slightly tiling towards the left side of the 2nd picture (where the overflow will be).

PXL_20240121_235939522.jpg


PXL_20240121_235907247.jpg


The floor then got put on where I tried to make sure that each joist was as flush as possible. I used a hand planer to ensure that pieces that were bowed or had imperfections were closer to being level with the others. I spaced these out every foot as well to ensure that I had good weight distribution across the bottom of the tank and that they lined up with the studs below.

PXL_20240122_052551919.jpg


PXL_20240122_052540786.jpg
 
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Sltloser

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With the stand completed it was time for building a box!

I opted to utilize 2 layers of 3/4" plywood glued together for the entire tank. Finding 8' sheets of 3/4" plywood is pretty easy, however finding 10" sheets is much more difficult. There is a 1/2" piece of plywood on the top of the stand for the tank to sit on. I opted to use 8' pieces and overlap the seams for the bottom of the tank, I feel that the stand is build sturdy enough that the seams in the plywood will have enough support to be a non issue.

Mock up of the bottom and sides
PXL_20240225_014532984.jpg



I decided to use pocket joints for the bottom pieces of plywood. I also filled the pockets by gluing in wooden dowels and sanding them down so they were flush before laminating the pieces together.
PXL_20240225_014543957.jpg



I was able to find a lumber company in Denver that had 10' x 4' sheets of 3/4" plywood. I likely could have used 8' sheets and overlapped the seams but I wanted to ensure that the back of the tank was one solid sheet of plywood with the amount of pressure it would be under. I made my cuts and mocked up what the tank would look like before gluing and screwing everything together.
PXL_20240303_042024380.jpg



These 90 degree clamps are a MUST HAVE if you're building a plywood tank. It made mock ups and construction extremely easy!
PXL_20240121_235922899.jpg



I marked off screw holes and pre-drilled every hole on the tank to reduce the chance of angled screws and blowout of the plywood.
PXL_20240227_051857514.MP.jpg



Originally I was going to go every 2" with screws, but after more consideration I opted to go to 3". Doing this put a screw every 1 1/2" instead of every 1". With 2 layers of plywood I planned to do screws into each direction (vertical and horizontal) of the plywood ensuring that both layers would be glued and screwed together to increase strength on the seams.
PXL_20240227_051808004.MP.jpg



Once everything was marked and pre drilled it was time to glue and screw the outside layer of plywood. I used a mix of structural and multi purpose GRK screws on the entire build. Here you can see one side of the tank screwed together, I staggered the screws so that I was able to run screws perpendicular to these from the back side (left side of this picture).
PXL_20240304_053502961.jpg



I used 2 1/2' screws to secure the plywood together. I think that I could have avoided the shiners you'll see below if I had gone with shorter screws. I think 2" would have been more than enough to hold this together, 1 1/2" may have even been okay.
PXL_20240303_181557507.jpg



Had a few shiners unfortunately, but luckily they were on the back side of the tank where it shouldn't be a big issue.
PXL_20240309_170847782.jpg



The second layer was much easier to deal with, I used about 2 gallons of glue to laminate the bottom and sides together. I rotated the tank to glue the back on first. I had to find every heavy item I could in the house to ensure good lamination.

Looking back I wish I would have laminated the pieces together and then glued and screwed each piece of the tank together. It would have made gluing and screwing a lot less stressful and I could have ensured that there wasn't any bowing in the pieces as they were connected together. It made for a few gaps between pieces that I later filled with fiberglass resin.
PXL_20240316_173631472.jpg



PXL_20240322_012807027.jpg



PXL_20240322_012737977.jpg
 

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Impressive! Are the back walls to keep the view of what's inside the tank from the front?
 
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After a lot of internal debate I decided how I wanted to approach securing the viewing panel.

I've seen 2 pathways to securing the viewing panel:
1. Use 3/4" plywood to create the frame for the glass to sit against/in (like alexg).
2. Combine 2x4s and scab them with plywood to ensure a flat surface to fiberglass too.

I opted for pathway 2, as I think it will be structurally stronger than 3/4" plywood and should allow me to skip front to back bracing on the tank. There's a local reefer here who made an 1100g tank using the 2x4 method, I've been able to see the tank in person, it helped me to feel confident in this decision.

Started by gluing and screwing the first layer of 2x4s together.
PXL_20240324_024225357.MP.jpg



I used the 90 degree clamps and my speed square to ensure this was square.
PXL_20240324_024217817.jpg



After that was completed I got the second layer cut to fit, then glued them the original one and put screws in the ends like the picture above. I didn't want to put screws through the 2x4s at this point as I planned to attach the frame to the tank with screws that went through the tank and frame. You can also see the 3/4" plywood scabbing that I cut to attach to the frame after glue up was completed.
PXL_20240324_171027974.jpg



I then used glue and small 1 1/4" GRK screws to attach the plywood.
PXL_20240328_032645791.jpg



I thought about filling the holes with wood glue, but wasn't sure if the fiberglass would bond to it. I decided to use fiberglass resin which I knew would bond to itself. I overfilled the holes knowing that I'd need to sand them to ensure I had a physical bond between the fiberglass and the resin that filled the holes.
PXL_20240329_020534668.jpg



I let all of the resin harden which took a few days and then sanded everything flush for adding fiberglass.
PXL_20240329_020523227.jpg



I ended up using a glue roller to ensure I had a good layer of glue between all pieces when building the frame. This thing was awesome, I would highly recommend!
shopping
 
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Sltloser

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Attaching the frame was then pretty easy! I pre-drilled all of the holes and then glued/screwed the frame into the tank. I used A LOT of screws...

Sides = 9 x 4" 3/8 Structural GRK screws and 2 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Bottom = 40 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Total Frame screws = 58 GRK screws

Before install I made sure the frame fit snugly in the tank. Once I was sure it fit to my liking I used the glue roller to apply glue to both the plywood and the frame, then clamped it down to add the screws.
PXL_20240328_230054095.jpg


PXL_20240328_230103107.jpg



4" Screws were perfect for this application, the only reason I didn't utilize the structural screws was because of the raised/flanged head that I didn't want to have to countersink to get a flat bottom.
PXL_20240402_024948607.jpg



PXL_20240403_233303164.jpg



You can see in this picture where I put the general purpose GRK screws, I had to ensure I didn't hit the screws that were placed in the frame. If you look at the picture above you can see where I used a pencil to mark the placement of the screws so I didn't hit them.
PXL_20240403_233244500.jpg



A nice flush fit!
PXL_20240403_233904791.jpg



This was when it finally hit me....I might actually be crazy to be doing this....
PXL_20240403_233142694.jpg
 

mch1984

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Attaching the frame was then pretty easy! I pre-drilled all of the holes and then glued/screwed the frame into the tank. I used A LOT of screws...

Sides = 9 x 4" 3/8 Structural GRK screws and 2 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Bottom = 40 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Total Frame screws = 58 GRK screws

Before install I made sure the frame fit snugly in the tank. Once I was sure it fit to my liking I used the glue roller to apply glue to both the plywood and the frame, then clamped it down to add the screws.
PXL_20240328_230054095.jpg


PXL_20240328_230103107.jpg



4" Screws were perfect for this application, the only reason I didn't utilize the structural screws was because of the raised/flanged head that I didn't want to have to countersink to get a flat bottom.
PXL_20240402_024948607.jpg



PXL_20240403_233303164.jpg



You can see in this picture where I put the general purpose GRK screws, I had to ensure I didn't hit the screws that were placed in the frame. If you look at the picture above you can see where I used a pencil to mark the placement of the screws so I didn't hit them.
PXL_20240403_233244500.jpg



A nice flush fit!
PXL_20240403_233904791.jpg



This was when it finally hit me....I might actually be crazy to be doing this....
PXL_20240403_233142694.jpg
you are crazy, but so are the rest of us.
 

Gumbies R Us

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Attaching the frame was then pretty easy! I pre-drilled all of the holes and then glued/screwed the frame into the tank. I used A LOT of screws...

Sides = 9 x 4" 3/8 Structural GRK screws and 2 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Bottom = 40 x 4" General purpose GRK screws
Total Frame screws = 58 GRK screws

Before install I made sure the frame fit snugly in the tank. Once I was sure it fit to my liking I used the glue roller to apply glue to both the plywood and the frame, then clamped it down to add the screws.
PXL_20240328_230054095.jpg


PXL_20240328_230103107.jpg



4" Screws were perfect for this application, the only reason I didn't utilize the structural screws was because of the raised/flanged head that I didn't want to have to countersink to get a flat bottom.
PXL_20240402_024948607.jpg



PXL_20240403_233303164.jpg



You can see in this picture where I put the general purpose GRK screws, I had to ensure I didn't hit the screws that were placed in the frame. If you look at the picture above you can see where I used a pencil to mark the placement of the screws so I didn't hit them.
PXL_20240403_233244500.jpg



A nice flush fit!
PXL_20240403_233904791.jpg



This was when it finally hit me....I might actually be crazy to be doing this....
PXL_20240403_233142694.jpg
Man, it is turning out great!
 
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I did decide that a wall around the tank would be the smartest decision to limit deflection of the plywood. Sooo, we made walls! I didn't attach them to floor at this point as I knew I'd want to be able to move them around and paint them.
PXL_20240422_042231182.jpg


I framed out a spot to put an overflow box.
PXL_20240512_193746587.jpg


Then made the overflow box from leftover 3/4" plywood to fit!
PXL_20240514_013608521.jpg


PXL_20240514_014904336.jpg


You can see another one of my mistakes in this picture. Somehow I manage to cut the back piece just a bit too short. I measured twice to cut once but somehow messed that up. I filled the gap on the wall with some 3/4" pieces of wood so the wall would be up against the side of the tank.
PXL_20240514_020721228.jpg


The opening to the overflow looks small in this picture, but I made sure I had plenty of space to fit my hand in to plumb it, pull out a bulkhead if needed, and do general maintenance. There's about 5" of space between the back of the overflow box and the top of the wall.
PXL_20240514_014911790.jpg
 

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