Red Sea REEFER 250 ALL Pre-Conditioned and most CAPTIVE-BRED Fish, SPS, Zoanthids. Slow Poke Reef. WE HAVE WATER!! start page 61.

[powers2001]

3/8” x 18” acrylic rods. I’ll drill holes in rock and skewer them with rods, glueing the seams. Then glue accelerator spray. Dry. Very runny glue on dried glue seams so sprinkle sand on runny glue to hide glue. Blow off excess sand with canned air. Bottom pic little tiny bag of aquarium sand just for 10 tank. Perfect amount, won’t waste a bag of sand.

 

[powers2001]

Very nice group of shoaling fish. They’ve been in a group for awhile. One of my favorite Damselfish. If there’s a possibility of losing one of the bunch, two at the most if the shipment is bad and you still have a group. Just not captive bred.

 

[powers2001]

Very nice two minute trailer video for a Netflix movie about a puffer fish’s journey on the reef.

 

[powers2001]

Received my package from Secret Santa. Awesome thanks !!! Got some things that were on my wishlist, some R2R swag, and some surprise jewels as well as a Christmas letter from Santa !!!! The Maxspect buoyant, water resistant coral tweezers have great reviews and will really come in handy as my hands don’t reach the bottom of my tank. The feed ring will double as a holder for a PMUP during maintenance. The AquaForest coral foods have my bases covered, ones to be fed in the day and one at night. A Sicce pump also included will stir detritus off the bottom. And of course the swag will show my allegiance to R2R. Merry Christmas Santa !!!!

 

[powers2001]

This is one of my new reefing apps. Called Pocket Marine. It’s got terrible reviews but I really like it. Just a snippet here.

 

[powers2001]

#reefsquad While I was gone for a few days the roof developed a leak and drywall mud and tape came apart at the seam on the ceiling. The stuff flaked off and fell to the floor. I had a Brute trash can soaking with dryrock and water in the corner of this pic. Although I didn’t see any drywall mud flakes in the Brute I’m terrified some got in there. I’m just guessing but I think the mud would have an anti microbial agent in it to prevent it from molding when moisture contacts it. I’ve got about 50 pounds of Pukani in the can. It’s winter here in the Northern part of Montana and there’s snow and mud everywhere so I can’t lay the rock out on the lawn and blast it with a hose which is what my best inclination of what to do is in this situation. Any ideas? Is there a way to find out how dangerous the mud and paint is? ICP? (The green can in the picture was not the can with the rock. The green one is there to catch water from the ceiling. I removed the Brute with rock that was further over to the right and not directly underneath the crack.)

 

[redfishbluefish]

I wouldn't be overly concerned. Drywall compound is made of Calcium Sulfate. I'd simply do a 100% water change and rinse any rock that had visible particles.

To the best of my knowledge, there is no mold inhibitors in drywall compound.....certainly not in any of the buckets I've used. If I had an open bucket and didn't have any drywall work for a while, it would have black mold throughout....like a swirl ice cream.

 

[Fudsey]

I agree with @redfishbluefish, I've had drywall mud mold as well.

 

[powers2001]

@redfishbluefish and @Fudsey I’m going with your advice on this and not only do a water change or two but load the system with a big dose of citric acid to cleanse the tank, sump, and equipment as the system is devoid of livestock at this moment. This should break up and dissolve anything I don’t want in there that could be troublesome so I can drain it out.

 

[powers2001]

I’m using this PMUP to power the 5” BRS media reactor. However since so much stuff is crammed in there I strapped some OXO vibration dampener to stop rattling.

This is where it goes above the Tunze pump and these two in the back to give the COR room.

The bracket for the ATK is strategically above and in front of the PMUP. The cords and hose is wedged between the bracket’s float and a baffle.

 

[redfishbluefish]

@redfishbluefish and @Fudsey I’m going with your advice on this and not only do a water change or two but load the system with a big dose of citric acid to cleanse the tank, sump, and equipment as the system is devoid of livestock at this moment. This should break up and dissolve anything I don’t want in there that could be troublesome so I can drain it out.

Wait......I never said anything about doing an acid wash! That will kill your beneficial bacterial, and if rock and sand are in your tank, slightly dissolve the rock, most likely releasing phosphates into your water. NO ACID WASH.

 

[powers2001]

Wait......I never said anything about doing an acid wash! That will kill your beneficial bacterial, and if rock and sand are in your tank, slightly dissolve the rock, most likely releasing phosphates into your water. NO ACID WASH.

No @redfishbluefish not muriatic acid but citric acid aquarium cleaner. Moreover there’s no livestock in the tank to be affected or any beneficial bacteria either to be affected as this is all dryrock. I won’t start a cycle until I remove all the water containing citric acid.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Again, not my recommendation. Citric acid is an acid and not recommended for rock/sand. It's used to clean equipment. I wouldn't do it.

 

[powers2001]

Picked up my FitBit after nearly a year of not wearing it. I’ve been going to the gym for a month and a half now and found this little app for the watch/fitness tracker. Should come in handy when I’m setting up the Lunar Simulation Module (LSM) on my Apex.

 

[powers2001]

Whoa !!!! My avatar is on my FitBit watch face!

 

[powers2001]

I’m serious thinking about giving up on my UV sterilizer. It’s a colossal pain to get it plumbed. One more outlet on my energy bar, one more flow sensor on an FMM, one more power brick and control box since it was to use a DC feed pump. And a bunch of plumbing to and from the sump to UV and back. And the cherry on top was a leak detection probe for it. Now I’ll chance sick fish and set up a utility tank for a hospital and for other things.

— Mitch

 

[powers2001]

Well it’s definite. I’m through with this UV. Going to sell it and my plans for plumbing on this tank will be finally done.

— Mitch

 

[powers2001]

I have also decided to cancel my plans for the Radion/T5 hybrid lighting system and just go for my Radions. Wiring of the ballasts to the leads to the endcaps on the reflectors let alone trying to mount the reflectors to my Radion rail is just to much of a headache.

 

[powers2001]

So I bought (4) 8.8 pound bags of Two Little Fishies ReBorn media from Champion Lighting & Supply for substrate on my Reefer 250. I emailed Champion about particle size and they said this is the smaller size but it’s still ReBorn and it’s the only size TLF is shipping now. However as you can see in the photo the particles range from 1” to an 1/8” in size and due to the porosity of the individual particles there is plenty of area for bacteria to colonize. These are broken pieces of coral skeleton probably mostly SPS that is labeled for calcium reactor media. But you won’t go wrong with using this as substrate. Cleaning should be easy as taking a powerhead and blowing water into the substrate to get detritus water born and the overflow should export the detritus into your filter socks or fleece roller.

—Mitch

 

[powers2001]

Reusing this controller board. They are expensive but also drillable, cutable, sandable, and paintable. First off remove the modules, mounting tabs, and screws.

Since the screw holes are jagged and with burrs, countersink them with countersink bit. This takes off the burrs and greatly improves easy of applying wood fill putty.

Apply Elmer’s wood filler with putty knife.

Wipe off excess putty with wet sponge after putty is semi-dry. Let dry 48 hours. Now you can paint over top of putty job black and it’s good as new. Or any color you prefer. I’ll use Apex grey.