Red Sea REEFER 250 ALL Pre-Conditioned and most CAPTIVE-BRED Fish, SPS, Zoanthids. Slow Poke Reef. WE HAVE WATER!! start page 61.

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powers2001

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Had problems testing 5V voltage from a step down transformer coming off a 24v accessory port using a multimeter.
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So I purchased this this morning.
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powers2001

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Some goodies I received today.

Current USA back-lit hangable sign.
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VCA SPS Kit. RO fittings.
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Contents of SPS Kit. (Salinity Probe Shield)
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Mitch. ;-)
 
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Finally have my skimmer all put together to look it over. I have a few more items coming in August then I’ll see how well everything fits in the sump.
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Mitch. ;-)
 
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Here's a preliminary to fitting everything in the sump picture and list of what's what:

R2r pic of skim chamber layout.jpg


  1. Probe holder by Harry's Aquatics.
  2. SPS Probe Kit by @VCA. Part of it under probe holder and not seen. Salinity probe not in at this time. Tubing is very stiff, I'll probably replace it with something more flexable.
  3. Sicce Micra Pump for SPS Probe Kit. Pump underneath skimmate collection box.
  4. Eshopps Skim Buddy skimmate collector. Box hangs into sump off edge.
  5. Reef Octo Varios 2 manifold pump for UV sterilizer. Pump underneath skimmate collection box.
  6. Reef Octo Essence S-130 protein skimmer.
  7. Apex PMUP utility pump behind skimmer. Pumping for GAC/GFO reactor.
BTW, that's just the skimmer chamber. There's a bunch of stuff to cram in the return chamber and then the Klir filter goes in the filter sock holder.
 
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Installed this 24V solenoid for CO2 scrubbing. Second picture is push connect fitting where the line comes in from the scrubber and goes into the solenoid.
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I'm in a major dilemma with my quarantine/frag tank. I've sunk so much into the RSR 250 that it makes me sick to think what all another tank is going to take to set it up. The QT is an IM 10 USG NUVO Fusion and so far the only investment I have in it are the tank itself and the stand not to mention a totally worthless pico skimmer I paid $150 for. I didn't know skimmers are barely effective on tanks that small. The equipment I have picked out for the QT so far are going to cost a few hundred including this auto water change system for small systems.
Also picked out is a Bluetooth light and every small Bluetooth wavemaker.

This leads me to a fundamental question. Do I even need a QT tank? I could go the standard route and just get a basic glass tank with a sponge filter for biological filtration. And the fact and all or almost all of my fish will be Captive-Bred makes me wonder if the parasite potential is even remotely possible. That's why I contacted Liveaquaria with the following email. Knowing the answers to these questions could possibly make me feel safe enough to forgo quarantining CB fish from them.
Hello Liveaquaria,​
Do buyers/hobbiests of your Captive-Bred fish need to quarantine them? Do they come straight to your isolated systems specifically for such fish so as to keep them separated from wild collected specimens? Whereas the wild collected specimens haven't been quarantined? Thank you!​
Best regards, Mitch Powers.​

So I am waiting to hear back from them with my fingers crossed. I know there is more livestock vendors out there that carry CB livestock but LA has the most extensive offerings. I need to research others. And for the QT doubling as a frag tank, I have a rigorous dipping routine that keeps me from quarantining corals.

Mitch. ;-)
 
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Here is the reply from the email in the previous post from LA:
Dear Mitch,​
Thank you for your question to Live Aquaria. Captive bred are raised in the facility under specific a specific system. The Wild caught when brought in go into and acclimation area separate system and then after the are conditioned for 2 weeks go to the quarantine area system where they are put through medication treatment.​
The captive bred are less likely to break out with illness, but as we know stress can cause break out of illness. Any shipped fish can still get sick from stress. Quarantine is still recommended for arrival of captive bred or wild caught to make sure they are eating and reduced of stress before introduction to any main tank. This protects your established fish and if needing to medicate they are isolated so you can medicate.​
If you need additional assistance, please review our helpful FAQ’s on the Contact Us Page. If unable to find your answer, feel free to reach out to one of our Live Aquaria Specialists.​
Sincerely,​
LiveAquaria​

Well I feel good about LA's separation between CB and wild caught fish. However I'm not ready to set up a frag/QT tank so I'll go with one of my old standbys until I do. This video introduced me into Safety Stop and by all means is a poor alternative to quarantining but will do in a pinch. I've used this method about 4 times and only lost 1 fish in a group of five that I treated all together.
 
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Bought this magnet mount anemone holder for anemones to anchor their foot in. From Aqua Rocks Design. The glass bowl is removable. I plan to have a cage custom 3D printed for me of exact size as the bowl like in the last picture. Then glue a magnet to the outside to couple with another to hang an anemone in the bowl in the cage. The anemone will be trapped in the cage until it anchors it’s foot in the bowl. Then I can remove the bowl and hang it from the Aqua Rocks holder so the anemone can extend it’s tentacles.
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Be interesting what they come up with now going forward
@BeMoto I feel like I'll die of old age before they come out with a WAV Jr. That's what I'm looking for. I'm sure it'll be followed by a pimp out BBU for the WAVs with a voltmeter display on the housing, total control and preparedness for outages. The BBU doesn't have to be limited to just wavemakers either.
 
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Should've ordered 2 in preparation for Trident 2.0
@BeMoto good thing you mentioned it. It would be wise to make room for the Trident 2.0 and maybe even buy another identical shelf unit. I figure the 2.0 would be same size or maybe little smaller since it will probably only test two parameters and the 1.0 three.
 
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Picked one up from Amazon. A mini monitor for ambient CO2. Some advanced electronics guru reefers connect very accurate ones up to an Apex ASM and have control regarding air CO2 levels.

Mitch. ;-)
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Delivered yesterday my USB voltage and current meter. Couldn’t get my standard multimeter right. This one is reading around 5V DC and will power up the fiber optic moonlight built into a Top Lids screen top. Control comes from a 24V accessory port on an FMM module steps down from 24V to 5V.
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Saw this article on Reef Builders. You send in a water sample and they tell you if you have fish and coral diseases or fish and coral parasites!! Couldn’t believe it until I read the article.

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Finally read this thread on the Klir filter:
And learned a lot from it. I bought it from Synergy Reef Systems and they bought it because they had never made a sump at that time that was compatible with the 4” Klir. The custom sump I ordered from them was the first. Since they no longer needed the filter after getting the measurements they sold it to me along with the sump. This was just shortly after Coralvue came out with the Klir and it had some major flaws. Some guys that posted in the thread above complained enough and Coralvue started replacing faulty parts free of charge. While all of this was going on a few guys came up with some ways to mount a third party motor on the body of the filter, install an Apex brand optical sensor, bypass the Klir controller, and control it entirely with the Apex. This looks like a fun project!!!! Here’s one of the motors someone was using:
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